Fragrance Reviews

Annick Goutal Mandragore Pourpre

12/27/09 21:59:28

By: Mark Behnke

One of my favorite warm-weather fragrances is Annick Goutal’s Mandragore which was released in 2005. It has a mix of anise and ginger that is very refreshing in warmer weather. I found it a surprisingly named fragrance because something named after the Mandrake plant, which is an ingredient used in witchcraft, should seem darker and more mysterious not bright and refreshing.

Four years later the original perfumer Isabelle Doyen has released a flanker, Mandragore Pourpre. As I perused the note list of bergamot, mint, star anise, amber, rosemary, geranium, black pepper, patchouli, myrtle, incense, and heliotrope I could see the outlines of a darker brother to Mme. Doyen’s original; perhaps one that might live up to the mystery I had hoped to find in the original.

The top of Mandragore Pourpre is almost identical to Mandragore but for one large omission. Mandragore Pourpre begins with the same bergamot, mint, pepper and anise that was present in Mandragore. The missing note is ginger which added the brightness to Mandragore.

In Mandragore Pourpre the top is mainly anise without much getting in the way. I get little hints of the other notes mentioned but the anise is firmly in the forefront of the early development. If you’re not a fan of anise this opening takes a good long while to transition into the heart. I happen to enjoy anise and without the ginger present, to add the light, I was hoping for a darker turn.

In the original Mandragore the heart turns herbal and green before ending on a woody note. In Mandragore Pourpre, Mme. Doyen keeps the herbal character with the introduction of rosemary and the green character with geranium. Together these create a deeper accord than was present in Mandragore and that depth makes Mandragore Pourpre different, but not the darkness I was hoping for. That doesn’t mean I don’t like the combination that is present I just kept hunting for something more.

The real difference happens in the base as Mandragore Pourpre has a little bit of wood in it but is dominated by amber and patchouli and that creates a warm place to bring Mandragore Pourpre to a close, again warmth but not dark.

Mandragore Pourpre has above average longevity and sillage on me. For those of you for whom Mandragore’s longevity was an issue you might find Mandragore Pourpre to have more lasting power on you. That was certainly the case on my skin.

I’m still looking for the Mandragore that evokes the darkness and spirit of the occult and Mandragore Pourpre isn’t that fragrance. It took me a few wears to quit searching for the darkness that wasn’t there and instead to appreciate the difference that is there in Mandragore Pourpre. Mandragore Pourpre is an ideal cold-weather brother to the original and one I will look forward to wearing this winter.

Full disclosure: This review was based on a sample purchased from The Perfumed Court.

Images: Carly & Art, erational

Author: Mark Behnke (Somervill Metro Man)
Fragrantica Writer

Mark Behnke is based in Somerville, MA, a suburb of Boston, and is the writer for Fragrantica. By day, he works as a research chemist in a pharmaceutical company. By night, he has been a consistent poster on the forums at Basenotes.net under his nom de blog, Somerville Metro Man. You can also follow Mark on Twitter @SomMetroMan if you're curious to find out what he wears on a day-to-day basis.

memechose

It is always great to read an honest review. I felt this was a flanker and lacked the imagination and creativity of the original.... when en niche has flankers it is sad.

Dec
28
2009

chayaruchama

I'm very much agreed w/ you on this one, Markest.

I sniffed it in October, and while I enjoyed the deepening of the fragrance- I didn't find that it either lasted substantially longer on the skin, nor did it merit [ for me ] an autumnal purchase.

I felt that I'd still prefer something far more mysterious.

Dec
28
2009