
By: Marlen Harrison
Miriam Mirani’s latest creation and first men’s fragrance for the Aqaba line is an exquisitely simple yet full-bodied oriental focused on lemon and leather.

Every now and then a fragrance comes along that feels like a favorite sweater. It's the kind of moment a perfume addict dreams of - coming across something new to sniff and instantly feeling as if the Holy Grail has just been found. It's that scent that when on your skin simply says "yes!" or the aroma that although brand new feels strangely familiar and personal. I have found one of these fragrances in Aqaba Men.
From the first few minutes into its 2nd hour, this gentleman in the black and silver bottle beguiles, intrigues, and creates quite a stir. I'm going to pause here for a moment and preface this with a brief commentary on Benetton. Yes, Benetton.
Remember Colors for Men? Surely you've seen it on a shelf at a local drug store or discounter. When first launched, this was a "yes!" scent. In fact, there's a bottle in my fragrance cabinet right now that I wear about once a month despite my general disdain for anything I once wore in high school. Colors for Men was all bright citrus and oriental lower notes, certainly Benetton's take on Drakkar Noir. Twenty years later, 2009: Colors ain't what it used to be (the women's version is a completely different aroma altogether, what happened there?). It's close enough to the original 80's launch to still find pleasure, and it really doesn't feel like a $10 US scent (ok, more like a $25 US scent). Anyhow, I’ve long pined for a fragrance like Colors for Men - a more upscale version, better ingredients, more refined.

Now, back to Aqaba. Some fragrances immediately conjure images for me, perhaps due to the bottle and name, or perhaps just due to the aroma itself and my associations. Aqaba conjures images alright! Imagine a garden pond at dusk reflecting colors of a changing sky, deep purple and burgundy irises peeking into the water, a burning orange sunset...get the picture? This scent is neither the garden nor the sky but the glistening surface of the pond, ripples emanating like waves of cloth fluttering in the wind. Next, we move inside to a room with tile-covered walls (think Patsy and Eddina in Marrakech at Humphrey's villa; I know at least a few of you get this allusion), a dimly lit room, candles burning in worked iron chandeliers, white petals dangling from green stems, plush woven rugs, sweetly-smoky hookahs, silk pillows, empty bottles scattered across the floor still releasing honey-ambered fumes from their now imbibed blends....everything dims as the night edges on until the midnight sky sparkles with diamond stars and sleep beckons. This is the setting for my own olfactory journey that is Aqaba Men.

Now, the aroma….Honeyed cognac with a twist of lemon and a vanilla bean, stored in a buttery leather pouch and kept in a bag of jade and navy colored velvet. Aqaba Men is smooth and well-blended: warm and deep enough for cold weather, yet somehow not so cloyingly sweet that it can’t also be enjoyed in warm weather. And my reference to Benetton and Drakkar? Same family, but these were the princes of yesteryear and Aqaba is the King of now. In fact, after recently sniffing Drakkar, I’m prepared to state that the good ole’ Noir just isn’t what it used to be either, another composition likely destroyed by the auspices of using different ingredients to preserve affordability. And the lemon and leather accord was far more subtle than I had recalled.
After a powerful opening with all the major players present, Aqaba Men is sweet, slightly woody, leathery, but buoyed by a well-tamed citrus. Next the vanilla strengthens and a dewy green note appears, decreasing the original POW! of the opening. The scent then swirls and melds into a velvety drydown. I could swear I detect a hint of chamomile and some juniper (think gin and tonic) somewhere in there with the soft leather. The longevity is satisfactory though the scent does tend to run out of steam after a couple of hours. To end, I think I could give up every other scent I own just to enjoy this Aqaba man.

Side note: Yes, it's true that I'm highly fickle, not prone to fragrance monogamy, and will likely change my mind next week about such dedication, but as of right now, and the obsession has continued over the last two months, I'm in love and ready to go steady.
Pros: One of the few true “wow scents” for me in 2009, especially in the often dubious category of “men’s perfumery”; stunning bottle and packaging; great for both office or evenings out.
Cons: The lasting power is average on my skin; the price will be a little high for casual purchase – a 30ml and 50ml would make the scent more approachable.
Notes: "Gorgeous scent and sensuous, Aqaba Men's composition includes cognac, lemon, leather and sandalwood.” Mirani.com
Reminds me of: At times Drakkar Noir, at times Colors for Men by Benetton, and there’s even a tiny hint of Ferragamo Homme’s creamy leather.

Designer’s Description: “PASSION POWER PERFECTION…
Aqaba Men an erotic and seductive Eau de Parfum that’s guaranteed to heat up even the coolest of desert nights.
Modern and alluring, Aqaba Men moves effortlessly from day to night. Top notes of warm cognac and fresh lemon blend into white flowers wrapped in a green accord while the dry down of sandalwood and leather beckon the strength and courage of Aqaba Men.
Thousands of years ago, the legendary love of King Solomon for the Queen of Sheba flourished on the sands of AQABA.
AQABA, jeweled city on an ancient caravan route, upon which luxurious cargos of gold, perfumes and fine silks passed.”
Number of times tested: 8
Number of sprays applied for this review: 2 on the back of hand from a bottle purchased at Mirani.com.
Fragrance Strength: Eau de Parfum
Development: (Linear / Average / Complex): Straightforward – what you smell at the beginning is what you’ll, hopefully, smell in the end. I do enjoy the little blast of lemony citrus at the beginning, no matter how fleeting.
Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting): Good stamina for the first few hours but then I find myself wondering where my Aqaba Men went.
Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot): Quite normal during the beginning but then quickly quiets after an hour or so.
Note About the Packaging: An eye-catching rounded black glass bottle that sits in a matte silver latticework frame. The name is imprinted in silver on one side while the silver cap matches the latticework. Very handsome.
Images: Aqaba, solarthermienator, seier
Please read the interview with Miriam Mirani, the founder of Aqaba.
Author: Marlen Harrison (perfumecritic)
Fragrantica Writer
Creator and Editor of PerfumeCritic.com, Marlen Harrison was also author of Basenotes.com's ADDICTED column and one of the community's moderators. Marlen has been a regular contributor to NowSmellThis blog, BeautyAddictMag, and The Washington Blade. He is currently completing his PhD in English Composition and TESOL and teaches at Indiana University of Pennsylvania.
Marlen,
Thank you for the wonderful review.
I have finally tested AQABA for Men today and I love it; it has such a beautiful combination of citrus and leather layered with oriental, slightly honeyed notes. I think this perfume is very easy to wear as it is not overpowering but it definitely has charisma.
jeca - yes, Aqaba classic is also in my collection, a beautiful honeyed oriental with deliciously spicy overtones.
scentmode - Aqaba Man is still my favorite launch of 2009, so incredibly easy to wear. I hope you will find a sample, private message me if having difficulty.
I have always admired Miriam's creations and her flair for blending the unusual and almost quirky with the most elegant and classy.
I remember the first time I smelled Aqaba years ago when I worked at Senteurs d'Ailleurs in Brussels and fell in love, then came Aqaba Spring.
I hope to get the chance to smell this one before too long , it certainly looks and sounds sumptious.
I haven't tried it yet, but I believe it must be wonderful. I was introduced to Aqaba perfumes two years ago. I see Mirani changed the design of the bottles, they were and they are beautiful, massive with a very heavy stopper (very very nice detail).
I remember Aqaba Classic, her first fragrance, it's gorgeous, complex scent, I was delighted with its multilayering structure. A spicy warm oriental fragrance, it can be compared with the sun shine in the evening, so many notes and expressions it contains, yet so light it is.
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