Arabian Fairy Tale by Montale

06/23/08 13:01:06

The house of Montale has existed for only a few years, but has already managed to take up its niche firmly. The first collection of French perfumes (Aouds Collection) on the base of aoud (agarwood), which was presented by Pierre Montale after his staying in the Middle East, awoke a lot of interest. The collection is large and very interesting to explore and get acquainted with agarwood and all its nuances. The scent of aoud, no matter how strange it seems to an inexperienced nose, has one magical feature: the longer you wear it, the better it smells.

What is aoud or agarwood? In a nutshell, it is a fragrancy, resin-like substance found in tree cavity, branches and/or roots and is produced by some 20 sorts of Aquilaria tree, as a reaction on Phialophora parasitica fungi disease. The resin inside the tree gets darker with time, solidifies and its scent improves. This is the reason why the highest quality aoud is produced in trees older than 30, which is very difficult to reach, given the conditions of its cultivation.

Aquilaria, which produces agarwood, is grown from India, in Cambodia, Vietnam, Bhutan, to Indonesia. Agarwood scent differs depending on the country where it is grown, as well as on the age of wood. Assam, a northeastern state in India, is a place where agarwood is still picked from wild trees and is considered one of the best ones.

Agarwood is mostly used like incense and in medical purposes, but it is also a source of aromatic oil, which can be added to oil perfumes in combination with other oils: sandalwood, musk, saffron and other materials. It is used as a fragrance and for hair and body care.

Scent of aoud is a very difficult one to describe, but simple to recognize in perfumes. Some notice its antiseptic, medical nuance, but I think it is not the best characteristic of a really amazing scent. Aoud is intensive and very airy. Its sharp, deep, woody scent is rich in nuances: cold and sweet, like heavy silk, which warms and cools.

A member of western civilization, who mostly appreciates unobtrusiveness of a fragrance, must have understanding and wish to discover the beauty of this precious scent in all its ingredients.

Arabian fragrances are very noticeable, since they have always played an active role in people’s lives. They encourage feelings, create good mood, steer thoughts. Fragrances by Pierre Montale are not just traditionally oriental, but have a fine French finishing.

Each of these compositions is beautifully balanced; notes are clear and smooth, recognizable in a common harmony, like music. You must try them only on the skin, since each Montale’s perfume changes on skin significantly and develops through classic phases: from top to base notes, and in that way your enjoyment is prolonged.

Good intensity, clarity of fragrancy notes to the very end, excellent harmony between themselves, long development of fragrance on the skin – these are characteristics of Montale's perfumes. The base notes do not melt into an impersonal, 'pleasant' bunch, but retain fragrancy characteristics of its ingredients. Acquaintance with Montale's perfumes was a great experience and a true pleasure for me!

I would like to start my overview with Aouds collection (over 20 fragrances), joined by another 3 recently. The recognizable central component, aoud, smells differently in each perfume. This is because of its surroundings and the sort of aoud in the composition, since it can originate from different countries.

The traditional combination of aoud and rose can be found in several perfumes by Montale, since they were simply made for each other. Woody, light and fresh rose is locked inside the bottle of Aoud Roses Petals. Its freshness is accentuated by a note of geranium in the top notes. A strong aoud note is softened by its petals, so it is neither so dark nor sharp, while aoud intensifies freshness of rose and introduces dramatic nuances and strict, precious notes. The composition stays light and airy. This is a fresh rose by Montale.

A genuine red rose is one of the elements of golden surroundings of Golden aoud, together with a warm, spicy note of saffron, pimento and opulent patchouli. It awakes associations of royal splendour and smells like gold, as suggested by its name. Dry scent of leather and warmth of saffron tingles gently from the first notes. Rose is lonesome and clear, so even men can try it in this warm, spicy and woody surroundings.

Dark, mysterious composition of Aoud Damascus accentuates balmy notes and dark notes of aoud and opulent Damask rose, which is peaceful and magnificent, accompanied by incense (olibanum). The composition is deprived of sharpness; all attention is focused on beauty of this heavy, sweet, but also dark and abstract rose.

Another perfume for fans of rose is Attar, which has been a great aphrodisiac for thousands of years. It was created in accordance with ancient fragrancy recipes. Rose harmonizes with warm, mild and spicy sandalwood. The composition is cheerful and joyful, scent of rose is as warm as scent of wood, which makes you warm and happy, and is very intimate and familiar.

Black Aoud and White Aoud, a royal pair in black and white bottles, can serve as a festive gift for a love couple. Black Aoud is certainly black, neither heavy nor aggressive, but sustained, serious and festively elegant thanks to harmony of leather, aoud, patchouli and rose.

White Aoud is very feminine and velvety white, because of gentle vanilla and powdery notes of amber, sandalwood and vetiver. Rose is gentle, while aoud loses it sharpness very quickly. That sharpness can be felt only in the beginning, but it is still present as an elegant, festive main element in the background.

Another fragrance aimed at women and lonesome as the previous one is Aoud Velvet. The composition does not have a single note of sharpness, but is warm and seductive because of white flowers. Aoud is silky smooth, balmy; its wine-like note goes perfectly with an opulent note of orange blossom, tiara and ylang-ylang. Verdure of flowers is balanced by precious aoud and vanilla.

Aoud Flowers was announced as a fragrance for men, but stays on the border toward a fragrance for women. A fresh, floral opening gives place to more masculine, drier notes (Guaiac and Teak) with intensive aoud.

Aoud Ambre is a fragrance easy to fall in love with, since it is so powerful, opulent and rich, magnetically attractive to everyone who enjoys passionate fragrances. Amber can awake senses and then tuck in its pleased and happy owner. Aoud Amber is dense and golden, and in the beginning as intoxicating as wine, which can clearly be felt. Sharpness of aoud is softened by spicy warmth of amber, which becomes as comfortable as a scarf as it develops. All 50 components mentioned in this perfume most certainly contribute to its extraordinary sensuality and comfortableness.

Royal Aoud attracted my attention thanks to its unusualness. I expected something traditional because of its name, but juicy citruses (bergamot and grapefruit), accentuated warm, woody notes with hot Indian spices in the background differ it from other compositions of this collection. Cold citruses and warm spices make a beautiful contrast; the composition is lively and dynamic, while the base introduces fresh notes of cut, clammy wood.

Fans of the extreme, who always search for challenge and unrest, are recommended to try Aoud Cuir d'Arabie. This is an extremely dark and deep fragrance, with an accentuated note of aoud in all its fullness and strength of leather, tobacco and smoke. This seductive fragrance will never leave anyone disinterested.

Other perfume from the Aouds Collection by the house of Montale:

Aoud Lime (aoud, rose, iris, patchouli, sandalwood, musk, saffron)
Aoud Flowers (aoud, rose, geranium, Guaiac, Teak, bergamot, musk)
Aoud Pur Oriental (aoud, olibanum, labdanum, amber)
Aoud Queen Roses (aoud, rose, hibiscus, patchouli, leather)

Besides the Aouds collection, Montale's oriental fragrances without aoud are also worth paying attention. Recommended fragrances for men:

Greyland (black pepper, several sorts of precious wood, Arabian leather and wild rose)
Wood and Spices (ebony, vetiver, sandalwood, incense)
Aromatic Lime (citruses, patchouli, myrrh, saffron)
Blue Amber (citruses, geranium, patchouli, vetiver, coriander, amber, vanilla)
Fougeres Marine (lavender, geranium, moss, patchouli, muss, sea accords)
Vetiver Des Sables (vetiver, mahogany, Indian spices)

Very feminine fragrances are:

Amandes Orientales (fried almond and vanilla)
Chypre Fruite (bergamot, rose, jasmine, moss and tropical fruit)
Crystal Flowers (ruse, lily of the valley, oriental flowers, mandarin, white musk, grey amber)
Ginger Musk (ginger, black currant, red berries, white musk)
Intense Tiare (Tiare, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, coconut, vanilla)
Jasmine Full (jasmine, honeysuckle, orange blossom)
Mukhallat (forest strawberry, almonds, vanilla, musk)
Oriental Flowers (rose, bergamot, ylang-ylang, iris, jasmine, Peru balm)
Roses Musk (ruse, musk)
Soleil de Capri (citruses, white flowers, white musk, Mediterranean spices)
Sweet Oriental Dream (rose, honey, almonds)

Perfumes which I do not dare recommend to one sex only and deprive the other of enjoyment:

Chocolate Greedy (coffee, Tonka, cocoa, bitter orange, dry fruit, vanilla)
Embruns d'Essaouira (sea notes, sand, sandalwood, spices, musk)
Dewmusk (orange blossom, pomegranate, ylang-ylang, patchouli, musk)
Orient Extreme (rose, sandalwood, Indian spices, benzoin, musk)
Patchouli Leaves (patchouli, oak, vanilla, amber, labdanum, musk)

Montale perfumes in our base.
More on the fragrancy component agarwood.

Visit the official Montale website.