Fragrance Reviews

Aramis Havana

11/05/09 16:24:55

By: Mark Behnke

Re-formulation is the elephant in the perfumed living room. As perfumistas we howl to the heavens and rend our pockets whenever we hear of a beloved fragrance from the past making a return. We worry that someone has taken our memories and trampled them underfoot in an attempt to make an imitation of a glorious original. There is, unfortunately, a graveyard of powerful individual fragrant statements that now speak in a whisper. With many more failures than successes I was incredibly worried when I heard that Aramis was re-releasing Havana; as part of the “Aramis Gentleman’s Collection”.

Havana was created in 1994 and it has become one of my all-time favorite scents. It does that by throwing the kitchen sink into the bottle and somehow having it come out incredible. If you look at the scent pyramid for Havana you will see twenty-two listed notes. It seems like the perfumers were grabbing everything off the shelf when they were composing Havana. The miracle is for all of this cacophony of notes the juice in the bottle is as compelling as any cologne that I own.

Because of that number of notes it was why I thought that the re-formulation of Havana would be nigh impossible. Change something in that complex mixture and, I thought, you would ruin it. I don’t know whether they actually did change anything or they left it alone but one thing I can state with certainty is this new version of Havana is identical to the vintage bottle of Havana that I own. The only thing that I miss from the old version is the blue frosted glass bottle in the shape of a cigar. It makes me happy that a new generation of men, and those who missed it the first time around, can have the opportunity to experience Havana in all of its glory.

Because of the number of notes in Havana it is difficult for me to describe this fragrance by picking out individual notes as wearing Havana is like listening to an orchestra. There are a lot of instruments on the stage and if you concentrate intently on one section you can hear it but if you relax and just let the whole of the orchestra wash over you the experience is more complete. That is the way I approach Havana.

The top is the most difficult part of Havana and it is where the most dissonance is present. Sort of like the olfactory orchestra is tuning up. The top starts with a blast of concentrated citrus cut with coriander and birch tar. It comes off like tobacco and leather doused in citrus. I can see where you might be reading that and saying that doesn’t sound appealing but that lasts about a minute or two before the leather and tobacco take the lead. The orchestra has finished tuning up and now they are ready to play and it starts with those two notes. They linger as rum and spices join the mix with jasmine also present to add a dark floral aspect. The heart is my favorite part of Havana as this becomes a spicy rum soaked, tobacco-laden ride in a leather jacket. The base turns this all up a notch as it adds in incense, patchouli, cedar and tonka. These notes all combine to create an opulent cushion for Havana to end on as I feel enveloped in fragrance.

If you are looking for an understated fragrance Havana is not the bottle you should be reaching for as it has incredible longevity and sillage that can be overwhelming if over-applied. Keep the sprays down and you will have a sexy one-of-a-kind fragrance that is as masculine a scent that is available. I have to applaud Aramis for the whole “Aramis Gentleman’s Collection”; besides Havana they have also re-introduced Devin, an outstanding leather chypre, and it is also identical to the original bottle I have. All of the fragrances in the “Aramis Gentleman’s Collection” are worth sampling as I think it has re-introduced some underappreciated gems none of which glitter more brightly than Havana.

Author: Mark Behnke (Somervill Metro Man)
Fragrantica Writer

Mark Behnke is based in Somerville, MA, a suburb of Boston, and is the writer for Fragrantica. By day, he works as a research chemist in a pharmaceutical company. By night, he has been a consistent poster on the forums at Basenotes.net under his nom de blog, Somerville Metro Man. You can also follow Mark on Twitter @SomMetroMan if you're curious to find out what he wears on a day-to-day basis.

desmondorama

Mark, thank you again for your wonderfully candid and brilliant review of one of my all-time favourites - Havana!

My colleague and I were recently discussing the sad demise of this fragrance and the question - "Why do they always discontinue a popular and much-loved fragrance?" - like 'Jules' by Christian Dior, yet there are other less popular Dior fragrances on the shelves that no one ever buys nor talks about?

Anyway, I digress, but the wonderful think is that Aramis have acknowledged their retrospective past by releasing the albeit 'limited edition' of the 'gentleman's collection' of what are really popular and loved fragrances.

I suppose the company is recognising that these fragrances are target-marketed to the male population who actually wore these fragrances, and I wholeheartedly support them in this venture!

'New West', 'Havana', 'JHL', 'Devin,; they were ALL great, iconic fragrances, so why did they discontinue them? Thank goodness 'Tuscany' and some vintage 'Devin' are still around today.

With this new release, I will definitely be juggling which of my retro favourites I'd like to buy; but in doing so I've also discovered 'JHL' which is almost a replication of a more masculine 'Opium' pour femme by YSL, a great obsession of mine!

Thank goodness this collection is available in our Perth, West Australian department stores right now!

Nov
07
2009

NebraskaLovesScent

It's so encouraging to read this! I've heard so much about this wonderful scent and never got a chance to try it before it disappeared. Glad to hear it's back and more importantly, that it hasn't been messed with. I look forward to purchasing some for my hubby! Thanks, Mark!

Nov
06
2009

Flora55

This is wonderful news! I have always liked the Aramis fragrances, and I am glad they have not ruined them. This is one of the lines men can always count on. Niice review!

Nov
06
2009

Andy Austin

i love Aramis. thank you for a great review. I want to check out the collection at Neiman Marucs tomorrow

Nov
06
2009

chayaruchama

I now look forward to re-sniffing this older gem...
And the others, which have 'scentimental significance' [sic] :-)

I agree heartily with the orchestral reference, Mark.

Beautiful work .

Nov
06
2009

memechose

The one thing great thing about Estee Lauder... they are very diligent about staying true to a fragrance's formula and open about a fragrance's reformulation. Karen Khoury is a maestro of ensuring quality.

I am in love with this collection...Aramis, the original is still (imho) one of the best masculine's created.

And MArk, you "strapping man who wears Mythique", sometimes a true gentleman DESERVES a gentleman's fragrance.

Nov
06
2009

zoka

I have heard comments like 'this is the best men perfume ever' and last few years in was limited supply... even Amazon and eBay were 'out of stock' I remember I got private messages and emails asking where is available for sale.

I am glad that Aramis have continued distribution of Havana in this new packaging and did not reformulate fragrance.

Nov
05
2009