Aristocratic Iris Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile

10/16/07 23:26:23

The scent of iris has a whole palette of nuances: cold and warm, woodsy, aery, violet-like or root-like. Whatever the nuance, we know it for its aristocratic floral-woody aroma, slightly sweet, with powdery trace. The natural scent of iris is a costly material.

I experience and understand iris as an aristocratic plant, the scent of which was so sublime, that it is very hard to find it a parity. Just like violet, iris represents the notion of elegance of the golden perfumery era, when perfume was a real luxury.

Acqua di Parma, experienced in production of chic fragrances very popular in high society, has denoted its renaissance with, among other things, eau de toilette Iris Nobile. The new EDT has perfectly fit into the company of renowned fragrances such as Acqua di Parma Colonia (1916) and Profumo (1930), with relaunch of which Acqua di Parma has entered the new millennium and turned over a new sheet of its history.

Acqua di Parma started as a small factory in Parma. The first fragrance was created in 1916, Colonia, and at the beginning it was used to perfume gentlemen's handkerchiefs. Colonia became a real symbol of Italian chic among American and European celebrities in the pre-war (1930's) and post-war (1950's) years. Cary Grant and David Niven, Ava Gadner and Eva Turner, later joined by Audrey Hepburn, were among the passionate admirers of Colonia. From a small factory, Acqua di Parma grew into a prominent house with wide range distribution. Alas, the frivolous dictator Fashion and unpredictable and unjust Fortune turned their back to this Italian house – the years of great popularity were followed by the years of struggle for survival and against
oblivion.

At the beginning of 1990’s, three influential Italians, Diego Della Valle (Tod's s.p.a), Luca Cordero Di Montezemolo (Ferrari) and Paolo Borgomanero (La Perla), united their forces in a very patriotic impetus of preserving Italian classic – to restore Acqua di Parma.

They are reproducing the old fragrances, starting new projects, such as aromatherapy line Blu Mediterraneo, fragrances for interiors, leather gallantry Travel Collection… Searching for good investments and positioning at the international market, the three gentlemen signed a contract with a luxurious goods giant, LVMH, which in 2003 came to own the complete Acqua di Parma. The gorgeous Italian style specimen was saved and has successfully continued with its development. Once again Hollywood has turned its face to small, but proud, Acqua di Parma – the affection of their famous predecessors has now been passed on to Kevin Costner, Woody Allen, Sharon Stone…

New creations of the house are still in line with the tradition and are competing in popularity with the old and famous ones. One of the proofs that the time did not abate the skills is Iris Nobile.

Iris Nobile was created in 2004 by reputable master perfumers – Francoise Caron and Francis Kurkdjian. It was first created as eau de toilette. Classically elegant and feminine delicate floral fragrance is opposing the briskly-aromatic Italian style of the house; however, its moderate rhythm reveals the ambitions of beautiful floral fragrances of the past century.

Iris Nobile opens with luminous fresh citrusy notes of orange, mandarin and bergamot, followed by anise. The beauty of the iris flower is accentuated by the whole floral chorus that unites the orange blossom, ylang-ylang, tuberose, mimosa and woodsy cedar nuance in the heart, among which the orange blossom is the most persistent companion. The floral bouquet only accompanies, and not at all overlays, the beautiful iris solo – delicate-retro-romantic, with a trace of aery powder.

Eau de Parfum Iris Nobile was created in 2006. Besides the general resemblance, the fragrance has become deeper and more intensive, a bit darker and slightly sweeter. The citruses, so dominant in the original, have now been given a marginal role – the focus is on iris, and it has become more accentuated. Besides amber and vanilla, the base now includes oakmoss and patchouli that bring in a dramatic chypre note. EDT was launched as a summer fragrance, while EDP makes a great match to fur.