Fragrance Reviews

Back to Futur, Robert Piquet

10/01/09 16:05:08

By: Ida Meister

Futur is the latest, long-awaited release from Robert Piguet, in a line of revitalized, re-orchestrated fragrances by famed perfumer Aurelien Guichard. It has been kept “under wraps” – and currently is available only online, or as an exclusive at Harrod’s in London.

Piguet opened his house of couture in Paris, 1933; Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, and Hubert de Givenchy all studied under his tutelage. He enlisted the noses of Germaine Cellier and Francis Fabron in the creation of his singular fragrances, stunning and as original as his gowns...

So, what does this mean to our noses?

Well…Piguets are polarizing.
Either they sing that Lorelei siren-song for you, or they patently refuse to play nicely. Not because of any innate flaw. But because they possess larger-than-life personality and character. You wear them - or THEY wear you.

Fracas: the initially mentholated, buttery tuberose joyride with its clarion call, a party in every bottle….

Bandit: in its current state, a bit more bitter, edgy chypre aperitif with strong leather allusions…no-holds barred dark and mossy- moody.

Visa: not shy- by any means- wildly Bohemian in the ‘Rom’ vein, with its peachy/ patchy/ rosiness, velvety and purring [one friend claims that red-blooded males desire to chew her arm off when she wears this!].

Baghari: effervescent champagne aldehydes in ANY form of it [and I’ve got ‘em all ]-
bigarade spicy delectation. Not for wallflowers!

Cravache: as it exists today- is the exception; it is gentlemanly and sedate in the extreme- well mannered, courtly even. A lovely, if timid- woody fougere with a citrus laden top.

Futur ? We’ve eagerly awaited her; I had an advance sniff, six months ago - in the edp form.
I purchased the parfum, which has less aldehydic diffusivity - without any regret.

The Notes (according to the Piguet website)

Top notes: bergamot and neroli
Middle notes: Spring-like bouquet of violet and jasmine and ylang-ylang
Base notes: vetiver, cedar and patchouli

Robert Piguet’s website describes Futur as vivacious and romantic - which isn’t false, but it wouldn’t be my take. For me its, vivacious and worldly. To me, the sophistication is palpable; think The English Patient, in the scene where Ralph Fiennes sings Cole Porter’s “Cheek To Cheek“; perhaps, Kurt Weill’s savvy Broadway collaborations with Gershwin or Langston Hughes.

The lilting neroli / bergamot opening is bright and conversational; it lasts but a wink, and then the green florals foxtrot in. Although the fragrance lists violet, jasmine, and ylang they are just ingredients. It really doesn’t begin to describe what I feel. The verdancy is dry and witty, piquant, never moist (the way I interpret a vernal aroma). I could swear I smell honeysuckle - but it’s not on the list.

I smell illusory opera glove-leather, although no birch tar or isoquinolines are mentioned anywhere.

The base - which is unimaginably lovely - boasts vetiver, cedar, and patchouli. It takes awhile to discern the patchouli - but when you do, it is that delightful, well-aged winey, cocoa, oaken-cask aspect that is so self-assured and pleasing. The entire composition is gorgeously, seamlessly blended.

I have no vintage left to compare, but my sense is that Futur echoes the epoch when chypres of this ilk (and those who wore them) possessed a certain ‘je m’en fiche’ confidence.

A time when conversation was an art, (not a text message) and pleasures were taken unapologetically. Aurelien Guichard’s Futur is fresh and ageless, showing no signs of fatigue…

I think it’s brilliant.

Images: Robert Piquet, wikipedia

Author: Ida Meister (chayaruchama) - has been an avid collector and sniffeuse for over 40 years. She adores consulting with niche perfumers such as Andy Tauer, Liz Zorn, Neil Morris, Serena Ava Franco, and many others. Her hypervigilant nose has also never failed her in her primary occupation as a neuroscience/oncology nurse, where she often smells fear, suffering, stress, and can identify most micro-organisms and medications!

Ida has also been a teacher, translator, opera singer, dancer, and a caterer.

She is the proud Jewish mother of two sons in college, and is thoroughly married.

kewart

Dear Ida,
You sent me the perfume to try and now I am reading your review.
Futur is indeed dry, witty and unapologetic. I LOVE it!!

Feb
22
2010

chayaruchama

You, too, my dear ;-)

Oct
05
2009

belle de sud

Dearest Ida/Chaya, what fun to find you here! And such a fabulous review of the most recent jewel from Piguet! See you back here or on Sniffa!

Oct
04
2009

chayaruchama

Hi, Donna !
How lovely to see you- I should have known ;0

It will be released in NYC soon- I suspect that BG's might be the first spot [ I'll know by Sniffa-time ;-) ].

Knowing your tastes, I think you'd like the edp more; it's more floral.

Oct
03
2009

Flora55

Dearest Ida - did someone say green spring floral/chypre? By Piguet? I am SO there!!

What an original and intuitive review, I think you really gave us the feel for this one, and I for one am panting in anticipation of Futur arriving in my local perfume shop! This certainly is a pleasant surprise, I have not heard anything about this release until now.(I think I need it for the fabulous retro-modern design & graphics of the bottle alone.)

Flora/Donna

Oct
03
2009

memechose

Perfumer Neil Morris is in the house, y'all

Oct
03
2009

chayaruchama

Danna, Luccianna, Scentlover:
I DO hope you have a chance to try it; if dry, witty fragrances move you, then this one will ;-)

Oh, Big Boy !
You always make me feel loved ;-)
Thank you for chiming in- there's a PIE in your future,SOON.
I see it now....!

Oct
03
2009

danna

I have read your posts on so many blogs... ifeel like I know you. a truly elgant evocative review, gracefully written. I have not found a rp to captivate me, ... but if the fragrance is anywhere close to your review , i am smitten

Oct
02
2009

Scentman

Dearest Ida, you are a joy to read!!! How rare and exquisite your ability to transport us all into the world of fragrance with beautifully crafted words. Don't stop - EVER!

Love & Thanks!

Neil

Oct
02
2009

Luccianna

So evocative Ida! Now I am craving Futur...

Oct
02
2009

Scent lover

Thank you for the article!

Oct
02
2009

chayaruchama

Elena, Dusan-
It means a lot to me to hear from you !

Entre nous-
'Je m'en fiche' really sums it up , for me...;-)

Oct
02
2009

Elena Vosnaki

Wonderful wrtite up dear Ida and so glad you're joining us here!
It's that "Je m'en fiche" attitude which you nailed to squarely on the head: exactly right!

Oct
02
2009

Dusan

You got me at "Futur". Not to mention The English Patient. Oh my...
Bravissima, beloved! mwah

Oh and hi to Ellen :)

Oct
02
2009

chayaruchama

Memechose : I'm glad you enjoyed- Futur is 'classy' and I will love wearing it ;-)
It just might be RIGHT up your alley....

Pitbull : Good to see you too ! [ It's been ages;-)]
Thanks for the support !

Zoka : Thank you for the warm welcome and the opportunity....

SMM : So sweet of you ;-)
It's not gourmand, like Visa-
But its dry elegance is a knockout.
Come 'round and sample ;-)

Brielle: Drop by and sniff, honey.
Have a cup of tea ;-)
This is a really authentic-feeling scent.

Jeca : Thank you for the kind words !
What a fulsome welcome you folks give !

Oct
02
2009

memechose

Ida beautifully done. the futur is futur. so much styl eand clas to your writing.... i felt like i was experencing the fragrance

Oct
01
2009

pitbull friend

Ida/Chaya! Great to see you here! What an intriguing review! I hope we'll see many more from you.

Oct
01
2009

zoka

Welcome aboard Ida! Very nice review, I like your style of writing. Fragrantica mission is to celebrate magic of fragrance and you really contribute to that goal.

Oct
01
2009

Somerville Metro Man