Interviews Cannes TFWA 2016: E. Coudray Rose Tubéreuse - Interview With Cécile Zarokian

Cannes TFWA 2016: E. Coudray Rose Tubéreuse - Interview With Cécile Zarokian

10/06/16 13:55:42 (6 comments)

by: Miguel Matos

Miguel Matos with Cecile Zarokian

Miguel Matos and Cécile Zarokian

Rose Tubéreuse is the new perfume presented this week in Cannes by the historic French brand E. Coudray, expected on the market in January 2017. This is a spicy, floral-oriental composition of sensual and leathery nuances created by Cécile Zarokian. Maybe florals are not something we could expect from this famous perfumer but the result is spectacular. On the other hand, an openly sexy fragrance is not really Coudray's style so it's refreshing to see this perfume coming soon to the market.

MIGUEL: You seem to be creating a portfolio of historic brands. Last year you presented your work for Jacques Fath and now you are the latest “acquisition” of Coudray with a perfume that is modern but has a vintage touch. I would like to know more about the process of creation.

CÉCILE: This fragrance had to be a real Coudray, matching its values, history and image. That's why it can have some classical points. Not really vintage but maybe in-between. It had also to be modern, too. Because it's a heritage brand but selling for the market of today. I tried to balance a vintage classic idea and reinterpret it.

 

MIGUEL: Did you have a specific brief for this creation?

CÉCILE: The idea was to have a very feminine fragrance, an oriental. But again, oriental is a very large word.

MIGUEL: And Coudray already has good orientals like Ambre et Vanille and Vanille et Coco...

CÉCILE: I had to find a correlation between the pre-existent orientals but also make something new. What I wanted to explore for the oriental fragrance was something very sensual, comforting, feminine, elegant, warm. Something you want to be wrapped in. Pretty soon we decided to have something very floral and with an ambery base.

 

MIGUEL: It's interesting because I can really recognize your signature in the perfume's drydown. You are known by your resinous balsamic oriental bases. And I feel it inside Rose Tubéreuse. In my opinion this could even be called a floral animalic. It's very leathery on my skin.

CÉCILE:: It has a leathery part indeed.

MIGUEL: And even something that seems like castoreum, but I know that the brand is against animal ingredients.

CÉCILE: That's true. Because of the whole construction. It's based on balsamic notes of labdanum, amber, benzoin, amber, vanilla and woods mixed with the floral notes. Someone mentioned a honey element and it's possible because of a boozy and syrupy quality coming from rose oil.

 

MIGUEL: But there are more flowers besides rose and tuberose, right?

CÉCILE: Yes, there is a white flower bouquet.

 

MIGUEL: It's a very generous, deep and warm floral. I think it's erotic and narcotic.

CÉCILE: You can point some flowers but I really wanted to leave a floral impression, not necessarily focused on rose or tuberose.

MIGUEL: The name can be a little misleading then. Because it's much more than what it means.

CÉCILE: It's a bit true. I mean you can smell both flowers. But you could imagine something just about that and it's not. It's very rich and creamy.

 

MIGUEL: This is the least innocent fragrance in this brand. It's a bit sexual even. I love it and I feel that there is a masculine element to it that makes me want to wear it. What is it?

CÉCILE: I think that what could give this idea is the dry, amber woody notes.

 

MIGUEL: You are a very versatile perfumer and it's exciting to see that you can always deliver a surprising composition.

CÉCILE: I am happy to create this because it's another opportunity to express what I can do.

Sylvie Dumontier from E. Coudray, Miguel and Cécile holding her new creation.

Rose Tubéreuse

Top notes: bergamot, tangerine, clove, guava, rhubarb

Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, tuberose, ylang ylang, geranium, jasmine, orange blossom

Base notes: patchouli, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, benjoin, musks

E. Coudray's Rose Tubéreuse will arrive on the market in January 2017 in 100ml spray bottles in eau de parfum concentration.

Miguel Matos is a Portuguese journalist obsessed with perfume. Miguel likes to see himself as a fragrance curator, investigating perfume as contemporary art. He directs his own cultural magazine, Umbigo, and writes texts for museums and galleries. He is a vintage perfume collector and organizes regular talks called Vintage Perfume Sniffing. Honorable member of the International Perfume Bottle Association. He also writes on beauty and grooming for Beautyalmanac.com. He is a Fragrantica writer, translator and editor of Fragrantica.com.br

MEH



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Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

Cecile Zarokian is a girl after my own heart. Identifying Oriental with " warm, sensuous, feminine, elegant" is the reason I love Orientals. Cecile's creations based on resins and spices caught my eye (and wish list) on several occasions and her new perfume is no exception. The composition and notes make me crave Rose Tuberose. Well, only a few months till 2017.

Oct
09
2016
sandrina_bambina
sandrina_bambina

Cecile "blossoms" in a new way and by my own opinion, she created something different than her previous work we already know. She achieved totaly the style of Coudray and composed the fragrance with that special Coudray touch of femininity which associated with well cared, elegant and contemporary woman. Beside the quality of the juice the hint of vintage touch is present in all Coudray compositions and that is why this brand is special and very respected. I loved the flowery theme, which is very rich and intoxicating, it seduses in a way of Ambre Vanille, deeply and well rounded.

Oct
09
2016
PerfumeEmpress
PerfumeEmpress

I'm intrigued. This does not sound the sameb ol same old. I'd LOVE to try this.

Oct
07
2016
interdite
interdite

I'm a fan of Coudray. I hope I get to sniff this one!!

Oct
07
2016
PenelopeLA
PenelopeLA

The notes sound really nice for Rose Tubereuse. Thank you for the article!

Oct
06
2016
auroramaria
auroramaria

Thnk you Miguel great article! I'm looking forward to this new Coudray offering all their fragrances smell great and quality is the top.

Oct
06
2016

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