New Fragrances Chanel 1932 Perfume

Chanel 1932 Perfume

03/03/13 08:16:52 (7 comments)

by: Serguey Borisov


Collection Les Exclusifs de Chanel was introduced at the beginning of the 90s. Thanks to Jacques Polge, some of the great perfumes of Chanel's past have been revived—Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, Chanel №22 and Gardenia. They were sold exclusively in Chanel boutiques.

After Christopher Sheldrake joined Jacques Polge, the collection expanded to six new perfumes. New perfumes launched in 2007 reflect the distinctive Chanel style, which can be done as reserved minimalism—Eau de Cologne, musky № 18, iris from 28 La Pausa, green Bel Respiro—or as luxurious, on a Byzantine scale: resinous amber in Coromandel, chypre 31 Rue Cambon. These aromas do not even need any logo—you smell Chanel in them.

Many perfume houses have started to copy this successful Chanel idea: Christian Dior, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tom Ford, Dolce & Gabbana, and even Boss and Pal Zileri have released their exclusive collections. Since then, Chanel has regularly added new perfumes to Les Exclusifs. Sycomore, Beige, Jersey have joined. The latest was introduced in 2012 under the name 1932. In 2012 it was available only to the clientele of the new Chanel jewelry boutique at Place Vendôme in Paris. Now it is becoming available to everyone.

So what happened in 1932 to be captured in a perfume? In 1932, Chanel created her first "real" jewelry collection. Models for her Bijoux de Diamants were women's busts made out of wax, standing on black marble columns. It was a big Chanel success. Pieces of the collection were inspired by stars, comets, the bright lights in Champs-Élysées.

What is special about it? Chanel's jewelry atelier had been a success since 1924. But it produced bijoux from Bohemian glass and crystal, occasionally adding real gems. In 1932, at the height of the financial crisis, Chanel introduced one of the most luxurious jewelry collections at the time. Chanel used different materials to express her feelings about fashion and modern tendencies. Imitations of gems in the golden epoch of the 1920s did not look cheap, nor vulgar—they were funny and interesting. In the time of crisis people needed true values. Chanel chose diamonds, because they present the highest level of luxury in the smallest volume. The collection was created not for sale, but for charity.

1932 is an elegant aldehydic floral perfume. The sharpness of bergamot and aldehydes is powdered by musk, that fashionable one that you smell from the first moments. From then, a floral procession steps on this white musky carpet. Its leaders are jasmine in a hedione wrapping (crisp and shiny like cellophane) and rose generously powdered with iris.


Jasmine and rose are the most characteristic materials for Chanel after her No 5. The company grows them on its own fields. Recently orris and sandalwood have joined these natural self-produced materials. But jasmine, like diamonds, represents the highest level of luxury in the smallest volume. Chanel's jasmine is not heady in an oriental style—it's pure and airy. Hedione and aldehydes add the illusion of the bright splashes of light that diamonds produce when you turn them in your hands. Powdery notes (iris, sandalwood, musk) play the role of the best possible background for this shiny luxury—they are like clean matte skin of a woman's ear, neck or wrist—the perfect places to exhibit diamonds.

Warmth preveils to the end of the perfume's development, as it usually happens in perfume compositions. Perfumes always tend to calm down at the end, however hysterical they are at the beginning. Noble restraint has been always one of the characteristics of Chanel creations.

At the very end, 1932 radiates the warm muted light of Hedion. It's detectable in the pleasant cloud of musk, sandal and iris.
 

The official notes:

Top: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli.
Heart: jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, lilac, carnation.
Base: vetiver, iris, sandal, oppoponax, incense, vanilla, coumarin, ambretta, musk, Iralia.

P.S. Although Chanel received jewelry as presents from many men, she never wore it in public. She treasured and wore for good luck a topaz ring she got from her aunt when Gabrielle was sixteen, and a row of pearls from Boy Capel.

It's interesting to note that in the year 1932, Chanel lanched aldehydic floral Ivoire de Chanel. It was sold in her fashion boutiques and was not advertised in the USA. Later Chanel transmitted this name to Balmain and hasn't been able to use it since then.

This thought forced me to make a little exploration into trade names registered by Chanel. This is what I found:

Misia (in honor of Coco Chanel's friend Misia Sert, it will be obviously a women's fragrance), Camelia de Chanel (also for women), Route des Indes de Chanel (most probably here we will get cosmetic products, but we will not exclude an oriental perfume in the air of Coromandel).

 

 

Serguey Borisov

Serguey Borisov has been known in the Internet world of perfume under the nickname moon_fish for more than 10 years. Now he writes about perfumes for GQ.ru and Vogue.ru, and contributes on the subject for glossy magazines.

 

 

 

Photos: Press Release



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LanaD
LanaD

Sergey!!!!! great article!!!! can't wait to try this perfume!!!!!

Mar
06
2013
knit_at_nite
knit_at_nite

ooh fingers crossed the Chanel Boutique in Las Vegas has this when I visit end of March!

Mar
05
2013
Maeva
Maeva

Thank you for your interesting article, Serguey. I liked to know about the connection between diamonds and jasmine. It made me feel rich in a way :)
I'm looking forward to testing 1932, as it somehow seems similar to the glorious N. 5.

Mar
04
2013
ChouliGaloria
ChouliGaloria

Good article. Jewelry and perfume certainly go together.

Mar
04
2013
Lara517
Lara517

Surguey, I also love reading your ever descriptive articles. Yet, I find most of Chanel's scents to be entirely too old for me, with the exception of Cristal or is it Cristalle?

No.5 has always reminded me of my Great Grandmother.
Not something I would ever like to be remembered by.
But, with your description of Chanel1932, I may make an exception and purchase this, as your lovely description makes it Oh so tempting!

Mar
04
2013
Marie1846
Marie1846

It sounds wonderful I cannot wait to try it!

Mar
03
2013
LANIER
LANIER

Serguey I just loved reading your post. It is always exciting when Chanel launches a new fragrance and this wonderful article of yours has only added to my anticipation. Bravo!

Mar
03
2013

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