Raw Materials Christmas Scents: Part VI, Mandarine

Christmas Scents: Part VI, Mandarine

12/25/15 03:04:01 (8 comments)

by: Juliett Ptoyan

For the last several weeks we've discussed the aromas associated with Christmas and New Year celebrations, shared our opinions about favourite fragrances featuring these aromas, and gathered ideas about enjoying them at home, in the bath, and in festive decor. For those who missed it all: we have already discover spruce, cinnamon, fir, pine and cloves, and today, in the last article of our 'winter' series, let's consider mandarin - the holiday citric essential.

 
Strictly speaking, a couple of years ago we already published a great review article about this fruit, in which Marina has told everything (okay, almost everything) you need to know about Cītrus reticulāta and his immediate family. Now, a week before the New Year, I propose to recall the most interesting facts about this evergreen tree and discuss the fragrances, which have a dominant note of this fruit or its leaves.
 
 
Before appearing in the USA at the beginning of the XIX century, mandarine traveled across the planet for many centuries; now the largest plantation of these citrus trees are located in China and Korea, as well as in some Mediterranean countries. 
 
These short (up to four meters in height) trees with shaggy, curved trunks are the most frost-resistant among the citrus family, and the volume of production of this fruit is second after oranges - not bad, right? Immediately behind them are grapefruit, then lemon.
 
 
You probably have encountered the essential oil of mandarin, even if you haven't bought it in pharmacies; its skin consists of microscopic cells with oil, so if you rub it in your hands a little, there will be the light orange trail and bright citric smell - very summery, despite the fact that these fruits ripen in late autumn and early winter. On an industrial scale, oil from the fruit is produced by pressing; mandarin leaves, whose oil resembles a citrusy scent with a touch of herbs and grape skin, is often put through steam distillation. There are, of course, tangerine and other hybrids, but weare focusing on Cītrus reticulāta, as the clean smell of mandarin.
 
In perfumery, mandarin can be featured in any number of aromas such as Mandarine & Cardamom by Maurer & Wirtz, Mandarine Glaciale by Atelier Cologne, Eau Ensoleillante by Clarins. I like it as a part of fougere fragrances (like in Fleurs de Bois Miller Harris).
 
Yves Rocher featured mandarine in both Mandarine de Noel, whose line contained a lovely shower gel, and Fruit de Noel. L'Artisan Parfumeur (lively, bright Mandarine); Odin NY (warm 02, and soaked in liquor 08); Love & Toast (they made it like iced tea with a slice of mandarine) Mandarin Tea; and H&M's recently launched Mandarin Gold (which, if you know the previous works of the brand, looks a real breakthrough) all feature the cutrus aroma. What are your favourites?
 
I will not say much about how to use mandarines; but when you select them, you should pay attention to their skin - if it is too glossy, it is likely that it was treated with preservatives. That's no disaster, but if you love to cook it candied or dried, try non-treated fruit. It's also always cool to make some mandarine jelly, entwine these fruits in Christmas wreaths, or to use as a basis for a pomander.
 
And which mandarine fragrances are your favorite?
Will they be on your holiday table?
Do you associate mandarin with other seasons or is it a 'winter' fruit for you?
 
Wishing you a fragrant holidays and happy Christmas!
 
 
 

Juliett Ptoyan is a perfume journalist who collaborates with several glossy magazines, organizes perfume workshops and regularly writes for her own blog, bouquetjuliett.ru.

 


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Bob Marley
Bob Marley

Vintage Yves saint laurent M7 defo has mandarin in there somewhere stunning sublime fragrance. And as for M7 fresh hmmmmm delicious mandarin all the way throughout combined with ginger and oud for me literally heavenly fragrance. Gotta love mandarins. Loved the article. Thank you kindly.
.

Dec
27
2015
veda
veda

Thank you for this lovely article.Actually I just ate one mandarine ;)

Dec
27
2015
NebraskaLovesScent
NebraskaLovesScent

Mandarin is the scent of happiness. Too many co-workers overspraying Clinique Happy caused me to distance myself from the scent for a few years, but it's really quite enjoyable and easy to wear.

Body Shop Satsuma is another nice one, in small doses.

Dame Perfumery Scottsdale Mandarin, Neroli & Cedar is very pretty, though to my nose the neroli dominates.

That H&M Mandarin Gold is pretty darn good, too. I was pleasantly surprised by it.

Dec
27
2015
walking44
walking44

What about Hermès Eau de mandarine ambrée?

Dec
25
2015
Jernê Knowles
Jernê Knowles

I'm very pleased to be able to follow this set of materials from my dear friend Ptoyan are so many discoveries that keep trying to connect things here ... Very interesting to see that some elements have completely different cultural representations of our (Brazil), for a certain time or season, good example are these fruits and Christmas spices in the eyes of columnist!

Dec
25
2015
Uriya
Uriya

I also LOVE Mandarino Di Amalfi, by Tom Ford. Absolutely gorgeous.

Dec
25
2015
aspirina
aspirina

I think it must be a hard note to replicate. Many times it smells like vitamin C tablets or marmalade, and what I enjoy is the scent of the fresh fruit and its peel.I still have to try many of the perfumes you mentioned though.

Dec
25
2015
Housebliss
Housebliss

I've found that people either hate or love the smell of mandarin in perfumes. Hermès Eau de mandarine ambrée is a good example. Depending on who smells it: love, hate, love, hate. Nobody actually "likes" it.

Dec
25
2015

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