Exclusive Fragrantica Interview with Keiko Mecheri

Once upon a time, I was the publicist for Luckyscent. The year was 2003 and the fragrance blogosphere was in an embryonic stage. The first fragrance I bought that year was Keiko Mecheri’s Loukhoum. I wore it because I loved it, not because a perfume critic or a blogger raved or ranted. I wore it because I said “ca sent bon.” 

Ms. Mecheri’s interview took a little longer to finish. She wrote her answers while she was in London; she made notes while she drove her two young sons to school. She wrote while she was finalizing six new perfumes. Ms. Mecheri is a devoted mother, an entrepreneur and an artist. She is a role model for women everywhere.  

How did a Japanese child, raised in the USA who studied Art in Europe decide to create luxury perfumes?

Keiko Mecheri: This question is always asked why a person born in Atami, Japan can create fragrances in the US. Far from the stereotype, why not?! Why can’t Beverly Hills be the next Grasse? There is great diversity in California within a hand’s reach where I can find inspiration. In particular, these magical private gardens and the surrounding national parks; the hills of Santa Monica, for instance, have a reminiscence of South of France being filled with herbal aromas; orange blossoms in spring, blooming jasmine, etc. I always had a great interest in the vintage perfumes for fun until I made the jump to the creative process.

I found creating fragrance to be a very natural language to help me archive my memories and privilege my expressions. It is a perfect continuity to my quest of aestheticism through a rigorous discipline as a painter. What is seducing about a perfume, it is not only mutable in character, but is always evocative of departures and far away destinations.



How do these diverse cultural influences converge in your fragrances?

Keiko Mecheri: Far from exotic postcards and anecdotic stereotypes, travels represent a great power of suggestion, in particular the reference to enriching encounters and dramatic decors. This took a real importance when I met with my companion that made me truly discover the immensity of the Orient influence in the classic French perfumery, which reconfirmed that perfume is universality and contributes to create passerelles between different cultures.
 


What was your first memory of scent?

Keiko Mecheri: Atami, also known as the Japanese Riviera, was where I spent my childhood. There is a strong recollection of scents such as white wisteria and littoral fir (hinoki) in the woodland areas, as well as the burning incense from the Buddhist temples.
My parents were passionate of classic Japanese epic stories and as a young child, this enriched my imagination and created a strong imprint to be materialized later into the arts. 

Who are your favorite painters? 

Keiko Mecheri: There are many artists I admire through different art movements and styles and eras. I recently visited the Tate museum and rediscovered my admiration for Turner and Rothko.

Also Michelangelo, Velázquez, da Vinci, El Greco, Hokusaki, Caillebotte, Monet, Kahlo, Van Gogh, Dali, Niki de St. Phalle, Chagall, Picasso, Longo… to name a few.

What music did you listen to?

Keiko Mecheri: From medieval Andalusian music to Bel Canto opera of Verdi to Wagner, Debussy, Gershwin to David Bowie to Pink Floyd, any music that fits my aestheticism.

Is there a perfumer who you admire? A fragrance you wish you had created? 

Keiko Mecheri: I have admiration for the masters as Jean Kerléo, Henri Alméras and my friends Claude Dir, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Yann Vasnier, Calice Becker.
I wish that I could have created a perfume like Shalimar. Or perhaps I already have created my own “Shalimar”…

How do you "know" a fragrance is ready to be "born?"

Keiko Mecheri: During the evaluation, I always trust my own input. It is the instance when emotion and imaginary reach a delicate superposition. The fragrance may remain deliberately unachieved; it can be a sketch, an esquisse.

Are there olfactive threads that run thru your fragrances? What are the core values of your brand?

Keiko Mecheri: Creativity, aestheticism, quality. I take the same approach as when I paint. My imagination is the olfactive thread that runs through all of the fragrances.

As the Creative Director for your company, most of our readers may not know your process. Please explain how a Keiko Mecheri fragrance is created? 

Keiko Mecheri: To make a nice perfume, it is a delicate harmonization of precious materials. Usually I work in very close communication with the composition company. The nose and I must share the same sensibilities and meticulousness with a high level of cultural references and metaphors. Usually I give carte blanche to the nose; the nose has to have enough space around him/her for freedom of expression. It is a collection of images, memories, bits of literature put together but also raw materials have paradoxically immaterial and palpable dimension and they are to be worn so I had the need to immerse myself in it to capture the best from it. I had the chance familiarize myself with raw ingredients that are used in my compositions, during several sojourns to south of France. 



When Loukhoum was created, did you realize it would achieve cult status? What was its inspiration? Why do you believe it is till your iconic fragrance?

Keiko Mecheri: Loukhoum was not created to achieve an instant hit. I was enchanted by the evocative name Loukhoum, this wonderful delights so exquisite with candied petals of rose and gums and extracts; a whole décor surged from the intensity of olfactive references; so boudoir; so comfy as a divan.

Many of your most beloved fragrances were introduced PRIOR to e-tailing and the chit chattering of the blogoshpere. How has this access and transparency helped and conversely how has it affected your ability to emerge from all the clutter of new offerings?


Why do you think Sanguine has been one of Luckyscent's top picks for 4 years?

Keiko Mecheri: I wanted a citrus hesperides fragrance lasting all through the nights of summer. I stay true to my course of creation.

I would not create anymore if I have to listen to all the critics and comments of each opinion. As in any form of art, creating perfume requires detachment and free spirit against the winds and tides (vents et marées).

When you work on a fragrance, what is your inspiration—the raw material or the story behind the fragrance?

Keiko Mecheri: Perhaps the story, perhaps the ingredient. Maybe the both. 

Tell us a story…
 

Keiko Mecheri: While on a visit to Kyoto, I visited a well-known temple where there is a beautiful garden of purple iris, or shobu.

During the Edo period, the nobles adorned in richly embroidered kimonos would walk on the passerelle which had the effect as they were floating gods over the garden.

This is the story behind the inspiration of the coming Iris duo.

Tell us about your favorite raw material?

Keiko Mecheri: Undeniably, the rose, all the roses.
 

Which fragrance was the most difficult to create. Why?

Keiko Mecheri: The Jasmine fragrance was difficult achieve. The dilemma was how to retrieve a whiff of a field of Jasmine in Provence. It is so ethereal and elusive to recreate a true jasmine. However, it seems the new solifloral duo that I am currently working on seems even more humbly challenging.

Unlike Serge Lutens (who some have compared you to), you are not backed by a big company. Do you believe that in this economy, independent perfumeries can thrive?

Keiko Mecheri: More than ever. I believe the independent perfume houses are the risk takers in terms of creativity and aestheticism. We are representing the future of perfumery in hoping that we will be recognized by the industry for privileging quality and emotion instead of a quick financial return.


Your new flacons are beautiful. What was the inspiration? (Author’s note: Le collection de Keiko Mecheri has been repackaged in 2009, as well as Loukhoum, and the Trio de Loukhoum)

Keiko Mecheri: The heavy weight faceted bottle has an androgynous angular design that combines ambiguity, mystery and “nouveau classicism.” (Deliberately opposing to the overuse of luxury terminology).

The bottle is dressed (mass dyed) in a deep purple and soft gold touches and it is topped with a bakelite cap evocative of an antic gemstone; it also prevents the precious elixirs from the external elements. The entire line has a new ivory box with a woven feel of fine linen.

The bottle is inspired from my private collection of vintage Murano glass ('60’s era) topped with a bakelite cap evocative of an antique gemstone to create a contrast modern/vintage.

The curves of the bottle suggest innocence, femininity neither girly nor insipid. The shape is a reminiscence of an imaginary delight.
 
Crystal d’Ambre is your most current fragrance. Bloggers gave it mixed reviews. Do you pay much attention to what is being written?

Keiko Mecheri: Each fragrance should induce covetousness. With the creation of each fragrance, I follow my own vision and my own perception. My creations are intimist; by nature they are in opposition to a great diffusion.

Crystal d’Ambre is destined for connoisseurs. It is a classic modern interpretation of a mythical composition. Perhaps to some it can have an animalic character and can even be disturbing.

There are six new fragrances you will be introducing. Please Keiko, give us "un petit gout?"

Keiko Mecheri: We are introducing in the following weeks, the Datura and the Iris duos - for men and for women, which will be available in July 2009.

I am currently working on hesperides and a collection of roses; in an obsessional quest, I want to decipher all the facets of this fabulous flower.
 

Please visit the official web presentation of Keiko Mecheri
Please read a review about Loukhoum Keiko Mecheri

Images: Keiko Mecheri, Jim Epler, Mzelle Biscotte, Tanaka, Ivan Zuber, audreyjm529, Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, yarnstorm

Author: Michelyn Camen
Michelyn Camen is a New York City based Fragrance Specialist and a Contributor to Fragrantica. In addition, she is the Fragrance Columnist/Diversions for http://www.uptownsocial.net.

Michelyn is the former Senior Contributing Writer for Sniffapalooza Magazine, New in Niche Columnist for Basenotes and Editorial Director/Fragrance Editor for Beauty News NYC & LA

Ms. Camen provides personalized fragrance consultations based on body chemistry, psychology, fashion and lifestyle and is a consultant for luxury perfumers and fragrance companies. She may be contacted @ fifthsensenyc@aol.com