Interviews

Exclusive interview with Geza Schoen

11/30/09 10:47:47

By: Michelyn Camen

What did I expect from Geza? Not this down-to-earth man, who is so low tech he is seldom on the Internet, thinks a woman‘s mind is sexier than her looks, values the dying art of face to face communication, has a deep-rooted love of natural ingredients, admires ‘80s and ‘90s perfumery and thinks most new ‘niche’ perfumes are silly.

Yet Geza is ‘known’ as creating what many consider futuristic Perfumery… and it is this interview that brings this man to light. He speaks like one of ‘us’… no airs. This open, startling interview is one of the most amazing I have had the privilege of conducting. Be prepared to be blown away by his candor and lack of pretension. Geza, you are amazing… Ich bin ein Berliner.

Clive Christian 1872 for Men, Clive Christian X for Men, Biehl gs01,  Biehl gs02, Diesel,  Bombay Sapphire Infusion, Ren  Rosa Maya, Ren  Cologne 04, Eau de FCUK,  Breeze Ade Bakare by Creative Perfumers, London  Infusion, Michel Comte Shared Water for Him, Chiemsee Lime splash Mibelle , Escentric01,  Molecule01,  Escentric02,  Molecule02,  Pirate Style, Vive Maria Miss Behave,  Wode Boudicca, Kostas Murkudis, Pussy de Luxe.

Hi Geza… my unexciting opening question: please tells us about your childhood and where you grew up? 

Geza Schoen: I had a great childhood. I grew up in Kassel (Germany), which is known for its art exhibition. My father is an art teacher and my mum a kindergarten teacher. There was no violence and I had time to be a child... no electronic stuff back then, real communication!  

What olfactive memory is the most powerful for you? Has it influenced your perfumery? 

Geza Schoen:  When I did my junior perfumers exam at H&R (now merged into Symrise) I went to Hasslauer in Paris to look at their collection of ambergris (which are chunks of fossilized whale vomit). They led me into a room where they had all the pieces stored of the real stuff… That was an incredible moment. The depth and beauty of this weird natural ingredient - all in one room - was marvelous.

How important is blogging to shaping consumers' knowledge of perfumery? 

Geza Schoen:  I am the wrong person to ask; I don’t blog or read blogs neither do I Twitter.

More important is the work of all niche shops to stock our ideas rather than the masstige market producing more mass nonsense.

Describe your personality in less than 20 words…   

Geza Schoen:  I am the living dream of every mother-in-law. I am happy, impatient, interested, passionate, lazy, and cynical.

What fragrance do you wish you created?  

Geza Schoen:  Phew. There are a few classics I really like yet I have not lost sleep by the fact that I did not create them: Aliage, Lauren, Antaeus, Jil Sander Man Pure, Giorgio (this is not a typo), one of your favorites Feminite du Bois and Anais, Anais.

Do you prefer synthetic over natural ingredients?  

Geza Schoen:  I don’t really care where an ingredient generates from, as long as it smells good or I can evoke the story I want to tell with them. There are some fabulous chemicals and naturals and there are some horrible ones that I never touch.

What do you think of the future of perfumery in the 21st century? 

Geza Schoen:  Don’t know as we are already there!

Perfumery and creativity struggles with IFRA for the last decades. Many other perfumers say that this brings new challenges when a material is forbidden or restricted.

You look out for other, alternatives or replacements but unfortunately the interesting ones are being cut out.

No more costhus root, mosses gone, no more animalic stuff, no nitromusks, no more polycyclic musks, no lilia or lyral.

Well just look at the market and tell me if you can find one really interesting fragrance which came out in the last few years which had a real soul! It is also funny to see how the big brands throw our series of series of new products.

They all do their “alternative” lines now like Tom Ford, Armani, and now I see Van Cleef is doing it and D&G too. Most of these fragrances don’t have a heart or a soul. They are rather embarassing.

Escentric Molecules has a cult following, especially the original 01. I have tested it on some people and it's ambrosia. Why do you think this fragrance strikes such an accord with people?  

Geza Schoen:  Well, escentric01 is the perfect addition for someone who likes fresh and woody notes and not sweet or floral, yet incredibly sexy and sensual. This is my scent really and it has all notes I would want from a perfume, fresh to start with, easy to wear, not ozonic or watery in any way, shape or form, nor sweet or cloying. You don’t want to get on someone’s nerves with your scent, you want them to come closer and undress you instantly, because of it.

This works for some strange reason. I think this is one of best sillages there is when you wear it, it just smells easy yet very sophisticated and it has got that addictiveness.

What’s on your ipod  ? I don’t own an ipod .

Which artists inspire you?  

Geza Schoen: Joseph Beuys is the master of them all; he took it into the next dimension. Inspiration for perfumery rather comes from other experiences than artists work.

Apart from Beuys I am fond of Jeff Wall, Gerhard Richter. I hate aggressive art the Chapman Brothers, Tracey Emin or Damien Hirst - they are all masters of non-subtlety.

Good artists to check out here in our Berlin scene: Yotta Kippe and Aastrid Kuever!  More than art for me... travel is the best inspiration, the further the better.

I know you have traveled all around the world, tell me, what was your impression of Argentina (where my mother was born), especially Buenos Aries...

Also how have your travels effected you personally and your perfumery?

Geza Schoen: I love Boca, Michelyn, mi buena amiga, Argentina es un país que es memorable!

I saw 13 matches of Boca Juniors while I was in Buenos Aries, I fell in love with that club, seriously! That was all in 1995. It was fabulous, I went to San Telmo every Sunday, I traveled to Iguaçu and Salta to go up with the Tren de Las Nubes.

Olfactively, I discovered a fruit in Las Cataratas which smelled of Iso E Super, I am not kidding - called ‘higo de la india’, that was surreal.

Each time you travel you bring back some memory of new sensual experiences, that is the most valuable, as it inspires me to create new perfumes .

If you weren’t a perfumer what would you be?   A really trendy lamp post.

You have worked mostly with edgy companies, Diesel, FCUK, biehl parfumkunstwerke and Wode. What attracts these companies to your style of perfumery ?

Geza Schoen: That was more coincidental each time rather than on purpose. Sometimes you click with a company’s ethos, sometimes you don’t. I am very happy that I can choose the people I work with these days unlike in much of the industry where you are given the briefings if you want to or not.  

Please try to describe what your vision for Wode Scent and Paint?   

Geza Schoen: The idea for Wode grew over a few years to what it became. It was clear that a lot of Boudicca needed to go into that spray can they used. Finally we portrayed an intense situation of war which contained certain odours like blood, metal, leather, horses, nature, etc. without smelling technical.

At the end of the day anyone wearing a perfume wants to smell seductive enough to be pleasantly noted by someone you encounter, therefore we found a good balance in the scent of story and content versus wear ability!   

Is perfumery an Art or an art  ?

Geza Schoen: It is somewhat of an Art as well as good craftmanship – if you haven’t experienced over the years what ingredients do for each other you should not start to compose a fragrance.  

What is the difference between creating fragrances without a brief and on your own?  

Geza Schoen: Even if you create for yourself you have an idea from somewhere to start with, of course it is more fun than if someone comes along and wants an ozone note or her favorite wet dog smell in a scent!   

What is the most challenging raw material for you work with, why?  

Geza Schoen: Calone or lets say sea notes. I hate with a passion. Anything which reminds one of the smell of water or the sea is not clean smell. Real water does not smell very strong unless it is contaminated with pollution or whatever it causes its fishiness. I never understood this. 

I have heard you are working on a new collection for an Indie brand, please share what you can.

Geza Schoen: First escentric03 following next autumn! We are about to launch a new perfume called “The Beautiful Mind Series“. I worked with a world  champion of memory on this idea and out comes a wonderful reminder that only a smart woman is a sexy woman (in my eyes)... :)

Images: Thomas Schweiger, Wode Boudicca, Wolfgang Staudt, nica*, Swami Stream

Michelyn Camen is a New York City based writer and consultant who is a former Brandweek Marketer of the Year and Ad Age 100 recipient. She slipped off her power suit to pursue her passion for beauty and fragrance. Camen is a fragrance specialist and the owner of FifthSense N.Y.C., where she consults for niche luxury, fashion, beauty and fragrance companies.

She is the Editor-at-Large www.fashiontribes.com, a top ten fashion e-zine and the Fragrance Editor for UptownSocial.net. Michelyn is the former Senior Contributing Writer for Sniffapalooza Magazine, the former New in Niche Columnist for Basenotes and was the Editorial Director for Beauty News NYC & LA. Email her at fifthsensenyc@aol.com

sallybee2

Exceptional interview...Thought provoking questions and thoughtful, intruiging responses. This gentleman is a true creative thinker; I think he's my soul mate.

Sep
06
2010

scentual healing

I just ordered two samples of Mr. Shoen's beautiful mind... because i love escentric molecules....I took a chance and searched for an interview.. What an amazing man and perfumer... I am delighted with this interview. i think Ms. Camen is the best, such a connection with perfumers....I must now search for some of my other favorites. There should be a list by writer... just a thought.

Jan
09
2010

memechose

THANK YOU to everyone who commented. Geza , who is very shy,emailed me to let me know that he couldn't believe how many comments everyone left and he was so amazed and says Danke Fragrantica !!!!!

Dec
07
2009

Wim Janssens

Magnificant! What a special man! I like perfumers who have their own ideas and visions. Great interview. A perfumer you want to meet and try out his creations!

Thx for this beautiful interview again Michelyn!

Dec
07
2009

dawnkana

Loved the calone reply. And I liked how he described the difference between sea notes or dirty water vs. clean water. Clean, fresh water does not really have a scent. I never really thought about that before.

Great interview MC! I enjoyed reading it.

Dec
06
2009

CourtrightHer

Another delightful and insightful interiew, Michelyn! An outspoken and independant subject you found (love it). It takes courage to go up against the norm and we should support that. The cookie cutter perfumes are so over.
Always alot to digest and ponder on. I look forward to all your interviews.
You are the best!

Dec
06
2009

cynthia44

love this interview , although I wasn't familiar with Herr Shoen.. I am with everyone who is going to sample escentric moleculeso1 .. Who doesn't want to smell fabulous and sexy? LOVE Aliage and anias too

Dec
06
2009

CampyCamp

A wonderful interview with an inspired artist. Thank you.

Dec
04
2009

tenderblossoms

I loved this interview. I never knew much about him as a nose. I love that he speaks his mind and doesn't seem to give a FCUK :)( I love this fragrance btw.

Ms. Camen is one of the best fragrance writers on the planet... and I am addicted to these interviews

Escentrics molecules 01 is now on my list to try.
Thank you Mr. Schoen

Dec
04
2009

perfumecritic

Thanks for introducing me to the actual person behind the name. You help add depth to my love of perfumery.

Dec
04
2009

zoka

Once in the Moscow, luxury store GUM, I was testing Escentric Molecules and I was so surprised with how much passion girl that works in shop was talking about Geza and his creations.

This interview is so good and I have learned so much new... I have to revisit perfumeries and sniff some things again now with new look at them.

Dec
03
2009

memechose

Geza- thank you again for this interview. you would look great as a trendy lamp post, and you really touched me with your memories of Argentina. I am dying to sniff your new line fo fragrances for smart sexy women....I also think clive christian 1872 for men is one of my favorites in their line. But the biggst surprise for me was GIORGIO? REALLY?

Dec
02
2009

Andy Austin

well, I'll be , I just bought clive christian 1872 for men. love it. great interview... come on down to texas geza.

Dec
02
2009

danna

a fascinating interview with the man who makes such fascinating fragrances. i will join in the chorus for ambergris as as a fascinating natural ingredient. I own escentrics o1 and I am a person where it smells like ambrosia, so thank you both for a great read and unexpected honesty... BTW why is wode BLUE?

Dec
02
2009

arance

I'm very happy to read this interview, really!

I've tried some perfumes he created, and I like them.

I especially like ALL the "molecules", I will buy 01 very soon.

He's a modern time perfume creator, in the best way possible, giving us bottled futuristic and daring , somehow eccentric concepts.

Dec
01
2009

flittersniffer

I love escentric01, about which I was actually given a tip off by a Hermes SA, that's how good it is!

How wonderful that Herr Schoen would be a "really trendy lamp post" in another life. I once conducted a market research study on public lighting in Germany, and can think of some trendy lamp post designs that he would suit!

I have Shared Water for her - who is the nose behind that one I wonder?

Dec
01
2009

gblue

He hates calone! Hurrah!
And he's the man behind Bombay Sapphire Infusion. I now need to sniff the scent of my favourite gin even more!

Thanks for another great interview, Michelyn.

Dec
01
2009

Vickalena

In September I've been lucky to be present on the "Fascinating Duft" evening, organized by Osswald Perfumery in Zurich. I was very happy to - finally!!! - test the famous Escentric Molecules, Biehl line, also Byredo Parfums and some others.
A presentation, made by duet Geza Shön and Thorsten Biehl, in an easy friendly style, was very interesting and it was a real fun! :)
Thanks for wonderful interview!

Nov
30
2009

memechose

ah ambergris---- I was told by an expert that only 5% of sperm whales can excrete or 'vomit' the stuff that floats on the water for about five years until it becomes ambergris... precious stuff, a whole room, would be amazing as everyone noted

Nov
30
2009

Flora55

Great interview, he is a real original. I have a sample of Escentric01 somewhere, I must try it ASAP! And the Wode sounds amazing.

I knew he was my kind of guy when he said how much he hates Calone. :-D

And I must of course join the chorus of those who are swooning over the idea of a room full of ambergris!

Nov
30
2009

chayaruchama

I find his candor to be delightful [ and it doesn't hurt that he shares my love of ambergris !]...

He is his own man, and unapologetically truthful.

Thank you both for such a thoughtful interview.

Nov
30
2009

Kathryn

A whole room full of ambergris? Wow. I've only smelled the real thing once, just a few tiny pieces, and it was enough to make me just about levitate. Geza Schoen must have launched into the stratosphere entering that room at Hasslauer. Perhaps that experience at least partially explains his marvelous, other-worldly perfumes and his refreshingly original point of view. Another excellent interview, Michelyn.

Nov
30
2009

jeca

He is a brave man, how wonderful is to be so free to declare the beauty of synthetics in the era of natural ingredients (according to the public desire to have only natural), I mean his escentric molecules.

Nov
30
2009

Somerville Metro Man

Michelyn another great interview.
I am struck by how different Hr. Schoen is from some of your other recent interviews. It shows that creativity has many faces and you are showing us all of them.

Nov
30
2009

cgt

Geza certainly sounds like an interesting man who enjoys his independence. I loved his description of the room full of ambergris as an early inspiration. And I've got to try escentric01.

Nov
30
2009

Sonsa Rae

Scent is so incredibly subjective, isn't it? What is "perfume" to one person is 'poison' to another. With over 5,000 synthetic and natural ingredients to choose from, how does a "nose" know where to start? It would appear that perfumery is a combination of both skill and intuition. It's unfortunate that many essential ingredients have been banned.

Nov
30
2009

adamgottschalk