Exclusive look into the Mystery of ‘Mythique’: Interview with Ms. DelRae Roth

Parfums DelRae is a brand known to thousands of perfumistas around the world. Whether it is the green floral elegance of Debut, the heady floral creaminess of Amoureuse or the "fragrance of paradise" Bois de Paradis, there are diehard fans of this niche line based in San Francisco. Why is this interview special? It is the first time Ms. Roth talks about her creation Mythique, which will be debuting in the USA in September. It is also her first fragrance not co-created by master perfumer Michel Roudnitska. Indeed Mythique has been a mystery… until now.

Please give our readers a brief description of what inspired you to create Parfums DelRae, and why you decided to create a line of fragrances?

DelRae Roth: The simple answer is that I wanted to change my life! And in thinking seriously about that, I knew that I wanted to combine some of the things I loved, and was ready to take risks and to put myself "out there." A friend said, it was time to exercise my "savoir faire." Also I was increasingly disappointed with what the perfume world was putting on the market. I felt that there was an audience for more inspired, exquisite perfumes. It was almost 2001, and the niche market was just starting to get attention. So the timing seemed right.
 
What distinguishes Parfums DelRae from the hundreds of the new niche lines? What is truly different about the brand and the perfumes? The names of your fragrances seem to be spot-on to each scent.

DelRae Roth: I think Parfums DelRae is distinguished in the niche market by the complexity and originality of the fragrances. My vision is of rich, complex perfume, with a classical construction, using wonderful materials. The concentration is at 17%-20%, I don't use any colorings or preservatives—the quality is paramount.

I name all of my children! It is very important to me that the name reflect the personality of the perfume and help tell the story. I decide on the name for the perfume at the very beginning when I am conceptualizing the fragrance.

Your first five fragrances were formulated by Michel Roudnitska, but Yann Vasnier is the nose behind Mythique. Why?

DelRae Roth: For Mythique I worked with another Frenchman, Yann Vasnier. I had been hearing raves about his incredible talent and was interested to work with him. He was very enthusiastic to work with me and loved the concept behind Mythique. Yann is based in New York, so it was quite easy to work together.

My personal favorite is Bois de Paradis. While  working with Michel on  Fragrantica's recent interview with Michel Roudnitska, he told me (via email) that it was his favorite of all his collaborations. Did you have any idea when you approved the last lab sample that it would be such a critical and commercial success?

DelRae Roth: Well, you never know what will happen, and what will get the attention of people. Bois was difficult to fine-tune. It took quite a while until I felt the balance—rose, wood, spice, gourmand—was right. I was particularly focused that it not be too sweet, not too woody. Bois de Paradis has a very sensual personality, and so it "shows" very well. And, I am thrilled so many people love it.

 
How does the process work? You live San Francisco and Yann is in New York and Michel in France. How do you achieve such amazing scent synergy?

DelRae Roth: The perfumes are collaborations and projects proceed slowly and very deliberately. I always meet first with whomever I have decided to work with, because I need to explain the idea, and I want to see their reaction. I want to be sure that the concept excites them.

With Michel, because the first three perfumes were so influenced by San Francisco, he also came here and we talked and walked. I showed him some of the places I love, so he could really understand. Along with my trips to France, FedEx and email it all works very well.

With Yann, the process is similar. The most important thing is that you have the same taste and can communicate about things that are at times, quite esoteric.

In addition to conceptualizing the fragrances I am totally involved in all the aspects of the creation of all of the perfumes (I even design the labels).

So I think part of what makes Parfums DelRae unique and contributes to the integrity of the line is my involvement and the very personal commitment and dedication that everyone involved brings. The quality of the perfumes is the very best. In so many ways, the situation is very unique.

Please share with us what inspired Mythique and the composition?

DelRae Roth: Years ago I became infatuated with a painting in the Louvre called Diane Chasseresse. It is of the French Renaissance noblewoman Diane de Pointiers. She led an extraordinary life, becoming the mistress of Henri II. As Henri was married to Catherine de Medici, Diane learned how to navigate the life at court. It really is quite a modern story. Diane was educated, independent, compassionate and beautiful. Henri was much younger, and they adored each other. She dressed in black or white and wore fabulous, simple jewels. She was a superb equestrienne, quite sporting. All these qualities dramatically set her apart from her times. I use to think she was this fifteenth century "California golden girl."

I bicycled to her chateau Chenonceaux, in the Loire Valley. And you cannot but be struck by this beautiful castle built over the river Cher. Chenonceaux had been a gift to Diane from Henri.

And so, for years I had wanted to create an Iris perfume, and as I thought about it, Diane’s story was in the back of my mind. Mythique uses the most spectacular (and most costly) Florentine Orris butter. There is simply no other perfume on the market that uses this quality of Orris, and at this quantity. The Iris is surrounded by other floral notes, many of which you find at the gardens of Chenonceaux. Yann and I are very proud of Mythique!!

Lily Barbery in last May’s French Vogue said that Mythique is a “halo du chic.” I think that describes it perfectly.

Top
Mandarin, Italian Beramot, Ivy

Heart
Peony, Jasmin concrete Sambac, Florentine Orris butter

Base
Sandalwood, Patchouli Indonesia, Ambrette Musk

DelRae, the niche market is so crowded, what are your thoughts about these hundreds of fragrances claiming to be niche?  In your opinion, what qualifies a scent as a niche perfume?

DelRae Roth: The niche market has really exploded, as the industry is really looking to niche to see where to go. It’s where the real risks are taken. To me, a niche brand represents genuine quality and exclusivity. And, perhaps most importantly, these brands have a vision, a real point of view. And because of this focus, these brands tend to be smaller and have a creative visionary directing development. My experience suggests that it is not possible to be innovative and qualitative if you are trying to satisfy everyone.

DelRae, when will Mythique be available for sale and where, worldwide?

DelRae Roth: Mythique was launched last spring in Europe and will launch in the US this coming September.
 

Images: Parfums DelRae, fmpgoh, informatique
 

Michelyn Camen is New York City based fragrance writer and specialist. Michelyn is an Editor.  In addition, she is the Fragrance editor for www.fashiontribes.com, a top ten beauty blog, and the Fragrance Columnist/Diversions for http://www.uptownsocial.net. 

Michelyn is the former Senior Contributing Writer for Sniffapalooza Magazine, New in Niche Columnist for Basenotes and Editorial Director/Fragrance Editor for Beauty News NYC & LA 

Ms. Camen is the owner of Fifthsense N.Y.C.  which provides personalized fragrance consultations based on body chemistry, fashion and lifestyle and consults for luxury, media and fragrance companies.