Interviews

Excusive Interview with Francis Kurkdjian - The Wunderkind of Perfumery

10/05/09 22:21:03

By: Michelyn Camen

Francis Kurkdjian is the wunderkind of the fragrance industry. Chances are you own and love his fragrances for some of the greatest contemporary designers and brands. His accomplishments as a nose are exhaustive, prolific and many of the scents are considered masterpieces. They include:

Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile, Christian Dior Eau Noire, Custo Barcelona, Davidoff Silver Shadow, Demeter Holy Water, Escada Lily Chic, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea, Emanuel Ungaro, Ungaro by Ungaro, Giorgio Armani Mania for Men, Guerlain Rose Barbare, Indult Reve en Cuir, Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male, Jean Paul Gaultier Gaultier2, Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male, Jean Paul Gaultier Ma Dame, Juliette Has A Gun Lady Vengeance, Juliette Has A Gun Miss Charming, Kenzo Eau de Fleur de Magnolia, Narciso Rodriguez For Her (with Christine Nagel), Narciso Rodriguez For Him, Parfums MDCI Enlevement au Serail, Parfums MDCI Promesse de l’Aube, MDCI Rose de Siwa, Salvador Dali Purplelight, Versace Jeans Couture Glam and Yves Saint Laurent Kouros Eau d’Ete and more. All were created over the past 14 years.

Kurkdjian recently opened an eponymous chic boutique in Paris unlike any other; the Maison Francis Kurkdjian offers all things fragrant from perfumes to scented bracelets. He will debut his collection in the New York City at Bergdorf Goodman on October 8, 2009.

Where did you grow up? Please describe your childhood…

Francis Kurkdjian: I was raised in a little town called Gournay-sur-Marne in the East suburbs of Paris. I grew up adored by parents and my maternal grandparents. My father worked for a big consulting firm and my mother was running the household. My grandfather was a tailor and my grandmother was helping him.

I still thank my parents for the education I received. I think my siblings and I were given the best my parents could afford. On one hand we had the education from school; on the other hand we were surrounded by art, music, ballet as well as various types of sports. I learned how to read music, play the piano and even went to the ballet school. We learned skiing and sailing, playing the rugby as well as additional sports. It is quite impossible to describe the atmosphere of these years; my parents organized costume balls with friends, hosted parties with friends and their children. My parents have always respected my personal and professional choices. I thank them for their support.

When did you realize you were destined to be a perfumer?

Francis Kurkdjian: There was not even the shadow of a perfumer on the horizon in my family. I grew up curious about everything and developed a love of handicrafts. After a short-lived career as a classical ballet dancer, I pursued fashion. Unfortunately, my pencil refused attempts at design, but the glossy pages of fashion magazines were a revelation. In them, I witnessed unimaginable splendors. And at age 15 I realized that I would be a perfumer.

What was your first olfactive memory?

Francis Kurkdjian: I would say my first olfactive memory is my grandmother’s pantry filled with spices and salted grape leaves, and the smell of over-ripe bananas!

Which perfume was your first as "le nez?"

Francis Kurkdjian: My first fragrance is Le Male, I have composed for Jean Paul Gaultier in 1995. I was 25.

In your collaborations, which fragrance was the most challenging to create? Why?

Francis Kurkdjian: Each creation is a challenge. You have to enter a universe or a world that is not yours; learn a vocabulary of someone else’s. It is fascinating and intense.

However, my collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier has a special place in my heart as I have been creating all his fragrances since Le Male even though I compete with other perfumers for every new fragrance.

Which collaboration do you believe put you on the map as a famous and talented perfumer?

Francis Kurkdjian: You start being recognized when you have an ensemble. One single fragrance is an “accident,” to quote my ballet teacher when I was doing three turns. Once you do it every time you start being good at what you do!

It is the same for fragrances, I guess! Le Male could have been providential had I not contributed to other successful stories, such as Green Tea by Arden, and the Narcisco Rodriguez fragrances.

How much have the internet and bloggers and aficionados contributed to your fame?

Francis Kurkdjian: I do not know. I do not look after any fame nor recognition. Being 40, I acknowledged that the internet has offered a wonderful platform for passionate people to express their points of view without being dictated by the burden of mass media. I am pleasantly surprised by the outpouring from the blogger community.

Many of our readers consider you to be their favorite perfumer; are you aware that so many thousands of perfumistos follow your every accord? How do ground yourself, knowing you are recognized by so many?

Francis Kurkdjian: I often go online to get news about the industry and therefore read comments about the fragrances I have created. It gives me an immediate input from real consumers. I always try to give my best and you can guess it is always a great joy to have a positive echo from perfumistos. Also, my long-time friends and family are my base.

What are the greatest challenges to the future of the Art of Perfumery?

Francis Kurkdjian: Many challenges are coming soon, not only for me but for the entire community but I see two big ones: the industry has thus far benefited from a wonderful growth story. The current business model has been stretched beyond its potential leading to the current situation where we witness hundreds of launches a year with only very few successes. Future will require courage in redefining the way the whole industry would bring back sense and legitimacy to a centenarian heritage.

Another challenge is more technical and lies in the growing complexity of safety and regulations and the way the industry will have to address that.

There is much buzz about IFRA….as an artist do these rules restrict your creativity? Please explain.

Francis Kurkdjian: Creativity needs a frame. IFRA is one of them.

Do you start a fragrance with its story or the raw materials?

Francis Kurkdjian: I start with a feeling, an emotion or a story. For each fragrance I have a notebook with some notes, drawings, like a storyboard. Then I decide on which ingredient I have to use. For example, for Cologne pour le Matin, one of my new perfumes from my new collection, I had in mind the first paragraph of Bonjour Tristesse, the first novel of writer Françoise Sagan when she described her wakening by a ray of sun in her face. I thought also about the early walk in the garden of my parents, walking barefoot on the grass.

Do you believe in "masculines," "feminines" or in shared perfumes. Is there a need for all three?

Francis Kurkdjian: Women are from Venus and men from Mars, aren’t they?!

If you weren’t a perfumer, you would be?

Francis Kurkdjian: I have a lucky star that put the art of fragrance on my road. I was not meant to become a perfumer, as I wanted to be a ballet dancer. What I know is that if I were not a perfumer, I would do a job that gives pleasure to people.

Favorite artists?

Francis Kurkdjian: The ones that touch me and makes me feel alive: I have to pay tribute to my parents as they have opened my eyes and ears to many art forms: music, dance, painting and handcraft.

What is art? Sylvie Guillem dancing on Ravel’s bolero, Williams Christies conducting a Rameau Opera, Opera singer Maria Callas interpreting Bellini’s Norma, a Madonna concert putting 80,000 people in trance, a retrospective of Ingres at the National Gallery, An artisan at Sèvres spending hundreds of hours to handcraft a biscuit rose porcelain, a Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture show. They all push the boundaries with their knowledge of how to flirt with perfection.

Favorite fashion designer?

Francis Kurkdjian: For women, I immediately think of Yves Saint Laurent and Azzedine Alaia.

For men, my designers of choice include Hedi Slimane’s years at Dior; Rick Owens, Tomas Maier, and Johnson Hartig for Libertine.

Where do you go to escape?
Francis Kurkdjian: I do not need to travel to escape. A book, a movie or a painting can do so many things…

What music is on your ipod?

Francis Kurkdjian: All types of music except hard Rock/Metallica and free style Jazz. What I listen depends on my mood!

What was the last book you read?

Francis Kurkdjian: I am currently reading Proust at the Majestic by Richard Davenport-Hines.

What is your greatest personal fear?

Francis Kurkdjian: Getting bored.

Please share your vision for your boutique in Paris. Are you the first recognized nose to create a shop? What was the driving force behind this concept?

Francis Kurkdjian: I assume it has been a long time since a perfumer has opened his own shop in order to share his vision and passion for fragrances and scents.

My House is a tribute to Paris, her magic and her spirit of freedom. It loves the savoir-faire of our ancestors as well technology. It is dedicated to great joys and to simple pleasures. My house is an olfactive journey lived 24/7.

Now that you have started the House of Kurkdjian, will you create fragrances for other companies?

Francis Kurkdjian: Of course I will keep working for other companies in collaboration with Takasago. This fall I have two fragrance launches: one for rapper Jay-Z, the other one for fashion brand Bebe, a new fragrance for Papier d’Arménie and many other projects for major industry players, including fragrance consulting.

Please explain the concept of your Maison.
Francis Kurkdjian: The “Maison” (House) is an expression of my belief that a house has a soul and a history, inhabitants and friends and sometimes children.

My Maison also hosts all the know-how of a perfumer, from home care to body care and fine fragrances, the same way you have in a house of Couture the “Atelier du Flou” and “Tailleur.” Perfumed life 24/7 is the motto of my Maison. The line is about experiencing scents and fragrances in different ways from a traditional offer to a modern approach. It bridges and brings together the universe of scents from homecare to fine fragrances.

The first creations from my fragrance house will include eau de toilette and eau de parfum, perfuming liquid washes and softener, lantern candles, home spray, incense paper, perfumed leather bracelets and scented soap bubbles. There are seven fragrances:

Cologne Pour le Matin and Cologne Pour Le Soir – an olfactory duet, bedtime stories for moments during the day or the night or both. If the first one is about cotton and linen, the second one is about cashmere and fur.

Aqua Universalis – a water for all uses, for everything and everyone, for all things, for all days. It is a scent that creates an olfactory connection that crosses between skin and fabric, between sheets and air, between large and small, between men and women.

Lumière Noire (Pour Femme and Pour Homme) is the encounter between rose and patchouli.

APOM (Pour Femme and Pour Homme) – is an acronym for “A Piece of Me”… a piece of oneself that one leaves on others. I was inspired to create APOM by the beauty of men and women, by the harmonious colors and flavors of the Middle East about which my grandmother often told me, and that I rediscovered during my travels to Lebanon. APOM is the power and softness of orange blossom and cedar wood.

What can we look forward from you in the near future?
Francis Kurkdjian: Only the future can tell! (smile). I hope that the future will positively mirror the choices my dedicated team and I are doing today.

Images: Francis Kurkdijan

Michelyn Camen is a New York City based writer and consultant who is a former Brandweek Marketer of the Year and Ad Age 100 recipient. She slipped off her power suit to pursue her passion for beauty and fragrance. Camen is a fragrance specialist and the owner of FifthSense N.Y.C., where she consults for niche luxury, fashion, beauty and fragrance companies.

She is the Editor-at-Large www.fashiontribes.com, a top ten fashion e-zine and the Fragrance Editor for UptownSocial.net. Michelyn is the former Senior Contributing Writer for Sniffapalooza Magazine, the former New in Niche Columnist for Basenotes and was the Editorial Director for Beauty News NYC & LA. Email her at fifthsensenyc@aol.com

ayala

Fascinating interview with one of the most talented and innovative perfumers of our times.
Monsieur Kurkdjian, I will have to come to Paris again just to visit your new boutique. It's too bad it wasn't open yet when I was there in May!
Of course I want to experience your new perfumes, but I have to admit I'm most intrigued by your incense paper and perfume bracelets.

Oct
13
2009

memechose

We should be very proud that we at fragrantica had this exclusive interview FIRST in the USA, very detailed before any other media except Vogue which did a short feature, now the flood gates are open... style.com, fox news in NY, highlights from the interview are appearing virally and the entire blogosphere is covering.

Oct
13
2009

Dusan

Well, I can only echo what others before me have said: Brava, Michelyn, and thank you!
If he had stopped at Narciso Rodriguez, Fleur du Male, Miracle Homme and Green Tea (not to mention his works for the niche perfumery), Francis Kurkdjian would still be my favourite perfumer. What I love most about his perfumes is their vibrancy, their rich, layered yet playful texture and, above all, soul.

Oct
12
2009

gknight

Francis is really one of the best in the business and to hear his perspective is both refreshing and enlightening.

Fantabulous interview as always Michelyn!!!

Oct
12
2009

CatrameDiBetulla

I really dont't know Him and his creations but a Perfume called "lumiére Noire" as to be mine. ABSOLUTELY!

Oct
12
2009

HORACIOAG

mychelin: great interview! is there any choice of mailing mr f kurkjian? i studied perfumery in buenos aires but obviously need much more study...i admire this great nose, composer! thanks a lot
horacio

Oct
11
2009

perfumista diva

I love so many of Francis Kurkdjian's perfumes, especialy Juliete has a Gun- Lady Vengeance and the MDCI'S.

I HATE doing laundry, so I want the scented laundry detergent to make it less of a chore.

Mr. Kurkdjian, thank you for creating a perfumed wonderland. Michelyn, this is a genius interview

Oct
11
2009

gigimeansgood

I totally love this interview - I read the fragrance review in Vogue this fall and they are not even half as good as what Ms. Camen has been producing for Fragrantica.

I think she has the touch to understand what we have all been longing for in the world of perfumery and the consumption thereof. Michelyn really gets the delicate balance between the esoteric process of creating a fragrance and the down to earth process of consuming one.

Thanks again
Gigi

Oct
10
2009

cgt

What a wonderful interview. This clearly was a case where interviewer and interviewee 'clicked'. I am a real fan of Francis', and it was so interesting to hear about his family life, inspirations, and artistic background. I can't wait to try his newest creations at Bergdorfs!

Oct
10
2009

Scentabulous

Rose Nobile, yes, that is a thought and one that I hope you will consider.

Francis, Michelyn ... it is an honor to be able to glimpse inside the soul of the perfumer ... Thank you Francis for opening and helping me to understand your perspective. Michelyn, your skill is second to none where olfactory inquiry is concerned. Bravo.

I was forced to dig deep in my closet and break out whatever drams I had set aside so that I could really immerse myself in your work, Francis. I wear both Iris Nobile and Narciso edp regularly and I adore both ... Juliette Has a Gun is one of my favorite fragrances bar none. I thank you. But in experiencing many of your others, I percieve a wonderful aura, a sense of peace and tranquility that you have so eloquently managed to capture, and you have brought this to the world ... What a gift to us all!

Scentabulous

Oct
09
2009

shastaesscents

APOM , Aqua Universialis...please.
I'm heading to Paris....

Oct
09
2009

memechose

What the interview missed.... Francis Kurkdjian :

-perfumes the waters at versailles

- believes that perfumery must move into the 21st century

-loves to do his own laundry and when in NYC brings home all his laundry to Paris

-That fragrance is a luxury affordable to all. His Masion and the new Bergdrf godman outpost,sell products from 18$ to 150. He was inspired by Holly Go Lightly in Breakfast at Tiffany buying a 10$ Tiffany treausure

- little children should not wear perfume, but should understand scent, the way they are taught colors....

- our lives need to be fragranced artistically 24/7.

-There is no niche anymore; those days are gone. there are good perfumes and ones that are just ways to increase consumption and confuse consumers.

-he was awarded a lifetime achievement award at age 30 and was recently knighted

-His grandparents moved to France from Armenia

Oct
08
2009

tenderblossoms

Francis Kurkdjian is my favorite perfumer... my friend lives in Paris Paris store and she is sending me apom fo, just based on the description I know I want it!!! I am surprised he is so young and handsome, and has such a great personality, it would be my dream to meet him...

Oct
08
2009

memechose

I want to thank eveyone fo their fabulous comments... it is such an honor to be able to explore the depth and breadth of this artist.... I am going to meet him with Jeca and Zoka so we will have more to say

Oct
08
2009

CourtrightHer

Good Golly Miss Michelyn, you've done it again! Superb interview. As usual, you are spot on with the right questions to bring out the essence of your perfumer. Yes, I have/ had a few of Francis Kurkdjian fabulous fragrances over the years and I agree that he is in a sphere of his own. Super Nez! I only wish my bank account could accomodate acquiring more of his creations (as soon as both of my kids finish college)! Looking forward to stopping in to Bergdorf to check out his collection (just in time for the holidays!). And as for you missy, you too are in a league of your own! Write on!

Oct
07
2009

Manouchkeva

Thanks again, Michelyn !

Francis Kurkdjian is for sure one of our most talented "nez" ! Jean Paul Gaultier's creations are very popular in France (Le Male being the n°1 selling for men till last spring), as well as Narcisso Rodriguez.

Francis is definitely a complete artist and you can feel this when discovering his creations...

I think he is very brave to launch his own "Maison", but he was clever enough not to act as a "posh" : the prices are not too high, and you can even "play" with most of his perfumes by wearing the leather bracelet or using Acqua Universalis in your washing machine.

Just to tell you my feeling about his news creations... They are definitely "a line". You really feel you are discovering the first steps of a new Maison. "Vintage" is for me the word that describes best APOM and Lumière Noire... which is for me very positive as we are in a need to wear secure and solid creations, that will last long, and not only to make a name fashionable.

Francis can be very proud of his work. Just wish him good luck and "longue vie à la Maison Francis Kurkdjian"...

Oct
07
2009

cynthia44

We love you Francis, and I love your Guerlain Rose Barbare. perhaps you can create a Rose Nobile :)

I am defintiely going to buy lumiere noire for her. Oh my ... craving it..

michelyn, you go girl !

Oct
07
2009

Andy Austin

What a talented perfumer... had no idea he created so many great scents. I wear Narcisco Rodriguez for him and Armani Mania. My wife wears Narcisco for Her and Iris nobile.

I loved his quote 'women are from venus and men are from mars'. yes, it is true...at least in our house.

We plan on visiting NYC during Christmas, and I know our first stop will be his boutique.

Oct
07
2009

sandrina_bambina

Dear Francis, thank you for fantastic interview and (personaly) thank you for Le Male and Fragile!! Le Male is one of my favorite fragrances ever!

Michelyn, great job again!

Oct
07
2009

desmondorama

Thank you Michelyn and thank you Francis Kurkdjian for this insight into the wonderful world of Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

Like many of us who unknowingly adore the work of M. Kurkdjian, it comes as no surprise that he is responsible for the fragrances of M. Jean Paul Gaultier.

My personal favourites are Fleur du Male, Le Male, Ma Dame, Gaultier2 and Fragile by JPG, Narciso Rodriguez and all the rest of everything else he has created.

Kurkdjian is officially my favourite nose!

Oct
06
2009

danna

I thought I knew alot about les nez, but I never knew some of my favorite perfumes were created by Mr. Kurkdjian... I am enthralled, and want to go to NY asap to experience his new fragrances... I think that he is exploring a new territory, and I am excited by the idea of a scented environment. of course the bracelets... perfect, as perfume is put on the wrist...

I also would like to buy APOM for her... it is sounds like an intriguing composition.

Michelyn, this is a really impressed with this interview. Mr. Kurkdjian's personality and love for perfumery shine thru ...

Oct
06
2009

Wim Janssens

Fantastic!
You just want to go asap to Paris to visit "Maison Francis Kurkdjian"!

The collection and creations look astonishing!

Mychelin,I just love the way you did the intervieuw. It gives the information I want to know, from a respected and so creative nose.

When somebody decides to become a true perfumer, you'll always see that the olfactif memory of that person is huge and full with associations. So lovely to read Francis Kurkdjian's olfactif memories from his childhood, his passion and things he likes in life.

Thank you Michelyn for this wonderful and great intervieuw! I am so jealous you could meet the Master! ;-)

Oct
06
2009

Somerville Metro Man

Brava Michelyn! You really get these artists to open up and let us really meet them.

I really love hearing these artists talk about their inspiration and their oulooks on perfumery. M. Kurkdjian is another of this group of artists who I beleive are creaitng an olfactory Renaissance.

I wish him luck with his Maison as its success will only allow him more artistic freedom in the future and that is a very good thing.

Oct
06
2009

Kathryn

Another wonderful interview, Michelyn!

Francis Kurkdjian is remarkable not just for the sheer beauty of his fragrances but also for his depth of inspiration (" I start with a feeling, an emotion or a story") and the amazing breadth of his vision, pushing the boundaries of art, pop culture, craft and commerce.

There are a lot of things to think about here. Perhaps the happiest thought is that his new line will soon be available in the U.S., so that we can experience it for ourselves.

Oct
06
2009

DSH_ArtScent

Another wonderful interview, Michelyn!! Congratulations!

M. Kurkdjian is an incredible driving force for creative perfumery; thank you for bringing his vision to life here in his own words. Beautiful.

Oct
06
2009

AnyaMcCoy

Very prolific and artistic, he is comfortable in his role, and that is wonderful

Oct
06
2009

flittersniffer

Francis K is one of my favourite noses, on account of Iris Nobile, Rose Barbare, NR for Her, Lady Vengeance, Promesse de L'Aube, Rose de Siwa and Kenzo Eau de Fleur de Magnolia, so I will definitely visit his Maison next time I am in Paris. I note he is doing some unisex scents under his own name, despite the earlier comment about men being from Mars and women from Venus! Maybe he was only joking there? Anyway, fantastic interview, as ever, Michelyn - keep them coming!

Oct
06
2009

chayaruchama

What an insightful interview !
Clearly, there is a wonderful synergy at work ;-)

Is there an aspect I don't like ?
The choice of bottles, the depth of his soul and eyes, his devotion to family, art, and clearly exquisite work ???

I believe it is telling [ both about you and him], that he reveals so much .

Masterfully done ;-)

Oct
06
2009

wendym

thank you again, a wonderful interview and loved your questions.... thank you both.
wendy

Oct
06
2009

zoka

Thanks Francis for such a interesting interview. I love many of your fragrances and some of them are global hits.

Michelyn you did great job again and let perfumer talk.

Oct
05
2009

Flora55

Wow, what a great interview Michelyn, you asked all the right questions!

I would be happy just to stare at him all day, but thank you for the insight into his intellect and artistic sense. I especially liked his answer about his favorite artists - since I am also a major fan of Sylvie Guillem and of course La Callas myself - it is obvious that he draws his inspiration from a deep well of sources and that he values beauty very highly.

Oct
05
2009

jeca

Thank you, Francis, thank you, Michelyn for this interview!

I am a big fan of Iris Nobile, Rose Barbare, Narciso Rodriguez for Her and Him, Le Male, Fleur du Male, Fragile, all your creations for Gaultier!

Oct
05
2009

Kterhark

Ah Francis you are too sexy for words. Maybe someday you can come up with a fragrance that represents your beautiful self. Until then, I will continue to sniff my way through your creations, adding them one by one to my collection. (if you happen to read this, Isvaraya is my favorite of yours, followed by Rose Barbare.)

Oct
05
2009

darlingbuds