Gender Bender Gender Bender: Coco by Chanel (1984)

Gender Bender: Coco by Chanel (1984)

04/16/15 17:00:07 (55 comments)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

This is another in a series of fragrance reviews that asks, “Can a guy pull off a women’s perfume?” Leave a comment below for your chance to receive a sample, shipped anywhere in the world, free!

Hello and welcome to my new column here at Fragrantica: “Gender Bender”, an exploration of aroma, gender and scented freedom. Though by no means do I prescribe to fragrance having a gender, sociocultural stereotypes about masculinity often prevail at the fragrance counter. Join me as I explore some of the 20th century’s masterpieces of perfumery in my quest to address the familiar question, “Can a man successfully wear a women’s perfume?”

Summary: My favorite Chanel fragrance also happens to have originally been marketed towards women and named after Gabrielle Chanel’s nickname, Coco; as times have changed and fragrance paradigms have shifted, the floriental Coco now feels more in keeping with niche, gender-neutral offerings that focus on incense and woods. Having started this column with reviews of Patou’s Joy and Revlon’s Ciara, we now turn our attention to one of the world’s most famous design houses.

Perfumer: Jacques Polge

Try this if you like: Oriental florals; accents of rose and jasmine; spices such as clove, tonka, and coriander; animalic accents; incense-themed fragrances; warm, ambery drydowns with a hint of vanilla; did I mention rose?

Pros & Cons: Coco has purportedly suffered from numerous reformulations and as such, might not be what one remembers from 30 years ago. There are also numerous perhaps confusing iterations—EDT, EDP, Parfum, Coco Mademoiselle and Coco Noir.

Coco Mademoiselle has almost no relationship to the original Coco; Coco Noir is like a combo of Coco Mademoiselle’s floral and fruity notes with original Coco’s oriental, balsamic basenotes. I have been using the recent (2012) Coco EDP and find that it is indeed lacking just a little something, especially in the basenotes.

That being said, I can really think of no other scent in this genre that I more enjoy wearing; I think the woody, resinous basenotes with their touch of vanilla and amber (recalling the great Shalimar) are what set Coco apart from its contemporaries. The stunning bottle, superb longevity and smooth blending of notes all contribute to this scent’s enduring popularity.

Notes: “Top notes are coriander, mandarin orange, peach, jasmine and bulgarian rose; middle notes are mimosa, cloves, orange blossom, clover and rose; base notes are labdanum, amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, opoponax, civet and vanilla.”—Fragrantica.com

Reminds me of: YSL Opium, Cinnabar, Basile by Basile, Aramis 900, JHL, original Fendi, Gala by Loewe, Yves Rocher Aztek, Fendi Asja, Lutens Arabie, Aqaba Classic.

Designer’s Description: N/A

Number of times tested: 100+ over the last 30 years.

Number of sprays applied for this review: One single spray to the back of hand from a current bottle I purchased online (2012).

Fragrance strength: Eau de Parfum

Development: (Linear / Average / Complex) One of the great beauties of Coco is its complexity and development; the fragrance unfolds over time revealing a number of facets along the way – floral, spices, woods, and resins. Clove, labdanum, rose and peach all come out in full swing as the citrus and powdery florals so famous in Coco Mademoiselle create a fuzzy accent around this central accord. As the topnotes relax, the floral aspects become fuller and a slightly indolic jasmine shines through with a hint of something animalic. Once the opening stages develop, the spices begin to radiate from my skin and clove once again stands out. The drydown retains the original character but takes a slight detour into sandalwood, amber, vanilla territory that many of Coco’s contemporaries missed. This final stage with its sweet, woody aura is what I have most come to treasure about Coco EDP.

Longevity: (Short / Average / Long-lasting) I agree that earlier formulations had a greater depth, but my current EDP lasts a good 8-10 hrs on me with only minor application.

Sillage: (A Little / Average / A Lot) I admit to wondering where Coco EDP went when testing it in cold weather. It could be my nose but the sillage seems to soften rather quickly compared to what I recall from the 90s. Still, Coco is a head-turner and could be used with a light hand, hence only one spray for this review.

Note about the packaging: Coco EDP is generally found in the classic rectangular Chanel glass bottle with beveled matching cap and the logo around its sprayer band. A gold and black label adorns the bottle, and the bottle is housed in the traditional black and white paper packaging.

Where can I buy it? Found online at set department store prices from $92 USD for a 1.7 oz EDP spray and $77 USD for a 1.7 oz EDT spray; sometimes less at discounters and auction sites. Visit Chanel.com for more info.


The Bottom Line: There are a number of us who have strong scented memories associated with a classic like Coco; luckily, no one I knew wore this and so the scent remains fully my own without any gendered connotations. Well, ok, the name Coco is in homage to Mademoiselle Chanel, which Luca Turin suggests in The Emperor of Scent was derived from “cocaine” due to the drug’s prominence at Chanel’s roaring soirees (at a time when the drug was ubiquitous). With this in mind, that Coco may possibly be named for an addictive drug that provides a euphoric high, I suggest that the name is utter perfection. I regularly need a Coco fix from time to time, feeling like I can never quite get enough of this magical, rose-tinged potion.

And so let’s talk roses and cloves; more than any other notes in Coco, on my skin at least, these notes prevail. Yes, I get a touch of citrus, hints of fruit (peach), breezes of white petals, and tendrils of smoky, vanillic incense, but more than any of these, I get roses and cloves. And rose has played such an interesting role in men’s perfumery throughout the last one to two hundred years, having once been almost entirely relegated to men’s aromas and then later almost entirely missing from men’s aromas. We’ve seen it used skillfully in North American/European brand fragrances such as Aramis 900, Acteur, Antaeus, and more recently Burberry Brit, 1 Million and fragrances from Montale and Tom Ford. Having always been a prominent note in Middle Eastern and Far Eastern perfumes for both men and women, I’m sure some folks scratch their head at the notion of rose, and even jasmine for that matter, being relegated to women’s perfumery solely.

This brings me back to the category of “oriental” perfumes as a classification of fragrances. Fragrantica offers, “Oriental fragrances with dominant amber are placed in a separate group thanks to their accentuated warmth and sensuality. Their opulent bouquet includes intoxicating and intensive substances such as musk, vanilla, exotic resins and wood, often accompanied with exotic flowers and spices.” As the 90s progressed and men’s as well as unisex perfumery began to shift paradigms, more and more of what makes Coco so classic became evident in a range of compositions. The strong spices and resins are often de rigeur in men’s scents still today; floral notes beyond geranium and carnation are no longer considered specific to women’s perfumes; and the overall style of Coco feels still relevant while for those of us old enough to remember, retro as well. I’d argue that most any oriental could feel gender irrelevant within the ever-expanding niche markets. Again, aren’t our own historical and socially-constructed ideas about gender and aromas inextricably tied to the memories of those people who wore them? I’m happy to claim Coco as my own and continue to thumb my nose at any marketing and advertising limiting my fragrant experience in any way!

 

Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

Perfumer/owner at Kings Palace Perfumery, Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison is also the creator of ThePerfumeCritic.com and has contributed to Perfumer &
Flavorist
, American Society of Perfumers, Basenotes, Fragrantica, Playboy, Men’s Journal, Men’s Health, The New York Times, Forbes, NowSmellThis, and BeautyAddictMag.

Marlen is a professor of humanities with over 15 years in international academia; his research can be found in peer-reviewed publications ranging from Qualitative Research in Psychology to Language Learning in Higher Education.

Having lived in the USA, UK, Japan & Finland, Marlen currently resides in Washington, DC where he works both part-time at The Smithsonian Institute’s National Museum of the American Indian and as a professor / faculty supervisor for Southern New Hampshire University’s online graduate programs in Writing and Literature. Learn more about Marlen at www.MarlenHarrison.com.



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phurstclass
phurstclass

Chanel No 5 is gender neutral. It is in fact still my favourite perfume. I have tried Coco but many moons ago. Might have a spray next time I'm in Selfridges.

Thanks for the article.

Feb
18
2016
TanteSimone
TanteSimone

Edt might be okay for a man but the extrait is too feminine for a guy to pull off.

Feb
17
2016
KJS88
KJS88

I'd love to be able to wear this. I truly would. I adore everything about the fragrance. The bottle, the label, the (to my nose) woody-incensed-musky composition. But on my skin, something about it screams "WOMAN." The closest I've ever come to wearing a women's fragrance I've felt truly comfortable with is probably Coromandel. Guerlain's l'Heure de Nuit is a close second, but they lack the distinct, whack you over the head, waxy, fatty aldehydes that make me think of my mother and grandmother getting ready to go out for the day.

Feb
17
2016
MeanSuga
MeanSuga

Very nice, Marlen !
Swoon if a man were to wear this.
I might have to convince the husband to take on a spritz of mine.

Feb
17
2016
Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

Thank you Marlen for this superb article about a true Legend! Perfume has no gender, it is a matter purely of skin chemistry and taste. I have this scent and treasure it!

Feb
17
2016
SuzanneS
SuzanneS

COCO on a man would be delicious...love the article!

Feb
17
2016
iMaverick
iMaverick

Coco, from its first creation, remains the most beautiful symphony to my nose!

I've been blessed to find a couple of vintage bottles of the parfum definitely from different eras, and their reformulations are so distinct.

One version is from a 2 oz. parfum tester which seems to be heavy on the leather and patchouli. Dark, beautiful juice. Strong, deep, dark, beautiful!

The other version I suspect is an older version. Dark juice, but this one weighs heavier or concentrates more on sandalwood at the base. I find this to be so much smoother than the other, and because I love it more, I wear it less!

Wish I could figure out the batch year when either was created.

Coco is absolute love for me, from a time when perfumes were so complex and enveloping, and you definitely knew it took time to formulate these treasures.

Feb
17
2016
perfumecritic
perfumecritic

Sample winner has been contacted!

Please click on my name at the top of the article - Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison - to review all of my Fragrantica articles.

More Gender Bender and Bargain Reviews coming soon. Thank you, Fragrantica!

Apr
29
2015
Dcarlo
Dcarlo

I was always fond of female perfumes. Actually I like perfumes regardless of the "gender" label. But never dared to wear a single female perfume until last year.
I began wearing Coco because I just adore it since I was a child and found it terribly unfair not being able to enjoy it on myself just for a silly gender thing.
Then I gave Number 5 Eau Premiere a chance and I found it perfectly wearable for hot summer days.
Later on I bought Angel which is at my opinion more male than A-Men (which I hate), and my last purchase was Hypnotique Poison by Dior.
Among all of them Coco is my number one for cool and cold nights, it feels so gorgeous, misterious and intoxicating that I can never have enough.
So as you can see, you must wear whatever you like and forget about people and labels.

Apr
23
2015
JoeMacchiato
JoeMacchiato

It's a true bliss, for myself, to wear a fragrance that is marketed toward females but works equally beautifully on a man. On my journey of scents, I've learned to look past what others(especially countless ignorant fragrance SAs)perceive when it comes to gender in perfume. Also, I love to see/sniff on other men who step over the line and pull off a so-called woman's perfume.

Apr
20
2015
seju
seju

By gender I am male, however as a perfume lover, I do not believe that scents have gender. The marketing strategies and labels made those who wanted to make a profit out of the art were the ones who convinced the world that men should only wear a particular smell and that floral fragrance or those that are rather sweet smelling should only be used by women.

In the case of Coco Chanel, it is a classic that being said it has transcended time and generations from the prudish to the contemporary, and in this modern era more and more people are open minded and accepting. Therefore whatever this lovely creation I believe should be enjoyed not just by women but by all those who are enthralled by this fragrance's magnificence.

Apr
20
2015
Casi
Casi

Coco Edp is and will forever be my #1 Grand Dame! No other 'fume makes me feel so very...ME. She's lush, rich, full bodied, sexy, feminine, bold, elegant, a little dirty, old money, voluptuous and yes, Coco always takes me on a most alluring journey.

I have no doubt that a man could wear her with great success. While Coco is all woman and feminine to me, ON me, she could make a delicious man all the more yummy! ;)

Apr
18
2015
psycobata
psycobata

I have been known to wear fragrance marketed for women. Who cares. Never thought of this one. Thanks for bringing it to light. Thumbs up on this column. Keep em coming.

Apr
18
2015
Aafridi
Aafridi

I am a man & have both Coco & Coco Noir. Wearing these I got complements from men in my office. One of my friend is dying for Coco specially. My wife sometimes became angry on me on wearing these as she don't want to finish the bottle quickly.

Apr
18
2015
cincobayou
cincobayou

Have truly enjoyed your columns here!
I used Revlon's CIARA for a year or so when it first came out since it reminded me of my father's cedar sticks that he used to whittle on. Nice to find out it is still available.
COCO is one of my favorite fragrances and from your discussion of it, now I understand why I favor it more than others.
Oh, how I wish that people would quit trying to pinhole men into little sections of what they should/should not wear on their skin!
Men, if you like to smell the frag, then wear it!

Might I suggest for men Chanel No. 19 ?
It is truly a divine one that any sex could wear.

Apr
18
2015
Flarie
Flarie

I never thought about Coco being worn by a man. I think I'm gonna try it now!

Apr
18
2015
Cairo Rose
Cairo Rose

Coco totally unisex. I think a guy can wear "ladies" perfumes...no problem...one that would be excellent is Estee Lauder Sensuous Noir!!!

Apr
18
2015
nero77
nero77

I love this article! I am a man who loves wearing Coco! but I wear it in Eau de Toilette only as I find it blends better on male skin. Love it!

To the author: I find Coco has some kind of "tropical" flower vibe going on... have you noticed this? or anyone else?

Still it's a fantastic fragrance, and having lived in North Africa for a few years, I find that the smell of jasmine and spices and other so-called (by western sensibilities) "feminine" notes were widely worn by men of all ages. I happily wear Coco and love it!

Apr
18
2015
Ferril
Ferril

As most everyone here have said, you have to wear what is pleasing to you and your nose. Of course you can wear what society tells you, you should wear, but in the end you have to decide for yourself. If it were to become a law that stipulated which fragrances men and women can wear, I can say without hesitation that I would stop wearing any kind of fragrance at all. I'd rather be scent free that to be told "How" I should smell as a male. I really do think that the majority of people that have a problem with men wearing woman's perfume and vice versa have some deeper issues that they need to resolve. I find it hard to believe that anyone truly cares what perfume/cologne someone else is wearing. As long as the people around me don't have raging BO, I'm quite happy!

Apr
17
2015
mikasaackerman
mikasaackerman

Can a man pull it off? yes. I do. and do it well.

Apr
17
2015
snowtree
snowtree

I get all of the Chanel incarnations mixed up but I know them when I smell them on a girl. I never thought about wearing any of these as a male but would certainly be open to trying. If men are wearing Noir de Noir, myself included, I would think they could wear Coco. However the feminine association and "box" around this could be hard to break out of. Tom Ford is pretty smart not to put too many gender restrictions on his scents. Funny how Black Orchid even managed to escape the female only labeling. Let's give this one a try guys!

Apr
17
2015
vesna
vesna

Coco is gorgeous, no matter who wears it! A pleasure for the senses.Nothing more to add...

Apr
17
2015
dagmy
dagmy

I love coco medemoiselle because of I can remember very well the sent of the original coco in the nineties, when I was a child, so this is for me a very familiar scent that I'm fed up with. On the other hand, coco mademodoiselle is more modern, sparkling and just amazing fragrance!

Apr
17
2015
elderflowers
elderflowers

I agree with qatarkind that there is a lot more overlap between masculine and feminine scents in Middle-Eastern perfumery than there currently is in either Europe or the USA. It's rare to find a truly floral-based male scent in European perfumery nowadays (even using that classic fougere mainstay, lavender), or a female scent majoring in leather/tobacco – yet both styles used to be very popular.

We do need an article (at least one!) on male scents suitable for women, and I tentatively put forward Grey Flannel, M7, and Habit Rouge for assessment. Also, two scents that are marketed at one sex, but IMO best worn by the other:

For the gents: Ajmal '1001 Nights' - a huge animalic leather-oud, topped with a rose petal.
For the ladies: Geo. F. Trumper 'Milk of Flowers' - a floral clove pudding for carnation fiends.

Apr
17
2015
yoki johnson
yoki johnson

I can't wait to try & regardless if its for men or women if you like & wears well with buy it & ENJOY!!! I love Chanel products regardless

Apr
17
2015
rp6969
rp6969

Sounds delicious. I have always been keen to wear florals. Fragrances are genderless in my book.

Apr
17
2015
qatarkind
qatarkind

I have a question to some people are saying men can't wear women's perfumes, Is oriental floral fragrance only for women? Notes in Coco chanel can be found in other oriental fragrances but in different ways. Rose, jasmine, cloves, amber, and civet can be found in men fragrance too. In the past in the middle east people used flowers with oud, musk, or Amber for men and women. And most of today's men perfumes are synthetic aquatic or just citrusy or woody unlike women's fragrance which are more natural and deeper that's why some men want to wear women's fragrances and yes there are some perfumes that men can't wear it like "Fantasy " because it is to sweet and feminine. I hope my English is clear to understand because I'm speaking Arabic.

Apr
17
2015
craftyminx
craftyminx

Coco doesn't quite work on me. Coco Noir is better suited to my chemistry. With yay said, gender in fragrance is nonsense. My guy and I both wear Declaration d'Un Soir, and his current signature, Burberry Brit, is one I wore prior.

Apr
17
2015
Maeva
Maeva

Gender in pefume is so arbitrary. The two Chanels in my wardrobe are proof to that. My (male) partner loves and wears my No. 5, and I (female) love and wear his Chanel pour Monsieur, which, by the way, some coworkers told me smelled so "feminine" on me!

Apr
17
2015
spacecreature
spacecreature

"Generally" you wear perfumre to attract the opposite sex, not urself! ...so its only rational to have men put on something girls like and vice versa women wear perfumes that men like, and this is exactly what has been going on for years now without the general consumer realizing . But those that create them know that. I watched a documentary recently where the nose said exactly that. I like to think that Men would all be wearing women's perfumes if they were not so brainwashed and just went with smells they naturally enjoyed. But then they would just be satisfying themselves not their potential mates. This also explains why so many women love wearing men perfumes, often times will get a scent as a gift for their boyfriend/ husband only to later keep it for themselves.

Apr
17
2015
LaviniaMidnight
LaviniaMidnight

I'm really enjoying these columns. How about trying Poison? I'd be curious to see how it does on male chemistry.

Apr
17
2015
LANIER
LANIER

Is this post pointless as some have stated?
There is no question that women can wear men's fragrances, clothes and move across the gender boundaries set by society with ease and comfort. A woman can walk down the street in a blazer, slacks and wearing Old Spice and no one finds that shocking. (thanks to Coco Chanel for obliterating the 19th century norms for women) In fact it is sexy. But in my country we have very narrow boundaries of what is masculine. In fact in many places being original, different and true to yourself can get you killed.
This fun and informative series by Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison is about freedom. Freedom for everyone to be who they are, to aspire to and inspire confidence in one's self and others. It is about leaving the old mores of the 20th century where they belong, in the past. It is about moving into a world where a man can wear Coco and the only comment he will get is ....YOU smell wonderful.
There is a point and to say otherwise is pointless.

Apr
17
2015
JazieBach
JazieBach

Men men men... I'm okay with all this but what about girls and women using men's perfumes? We can use men's fragrance too if we want, it's not all about men you know... It's obvious that they use women's perfumes (I know a guy who uses Midnight Fantasy by Britney Spears for God sake xD!) But no one talks about us using men's perfumes.
By the way, YouTube is full of guys (boys!) doing reviews of fragrance for women (and they use it), so I think that there is no problem with them in the society and they have no shame doing that so.. I don't see the point of this post.

Apr
17
2015
qatarkind
qatarkind

I'm a guy and I like to wear women's fragrance because I think they are more natural than men's fragrances. And floral notes can be used by male and female.

Apr
17
2015
nexangelus
nexangelus

The only Chanels I have tried are Coco Noir which I did not like, Chanel pour Monsieur which was lovely and green and Misia which is a like at the moment. I wonder what I would make of Coco or No. 5?

Apr
17
2015
cleo cupcake
cleo cupcake

I think this one has really suffered a blanding out in the more recent reformulations but if you can find an older version especially EdP it is genderlessly glorious and would be fantastic on anybody!

Apr
17
2015
kouros94
kouros94

I have yet to try Coco, I have tried no5,but felt it didn't fit my person, by giving off an aura of powdery soapiness.

Apr
17
2015
Lilyfey
Lilyfey

“Can a man successfully wear a women’s perfume?”...Yes!

Apr
17
2015
arteditors
arteditors

if you like the perfume, wear it. i do so with chanel no5, people ask me what it is. i say i can't tell you :P i am male... ok i won't wear super floral ones, but before the 2nd world war perfumes were very similar...

Apr
17
2015
Julie Billi
Julie Billi

Coco EDP! My signature for Winter....I love it & in Love with it!

Apr
16
2015
Jacqueline
Jacqueline

I posted a topic a few weeks ago, it used to be my and my husbands favorite. The 2012 version is not like the vintage but still ok.
The 2014 ... is UNRECOGNIZABLE..

My husband came home and said..WHAT ARE YOU WEARING??
YUCK!!
I prefer COCO....he said :(

Apr
16
2015
BorisKodjoesNo1Fan
BorisKodjoesNo1Fan

It's funny that the higher up in price and designers, the less likely you can really call a fragrance solely a feminine or masculine fragrance. It becomes more open-ended because for me, fragrance is attached to a memory, not a gender norm, so anyone could find anything pleasing to the nose.

Apr
16
2015
jlfears
jlfears

I don't think perfume has a gender! My boyfriend and I share Velvet Rope; I wear his Egoiste Concentree from the 90s (amazing ~ and funny aside: he found out about it from the singer of Nitzer Ebb at a show!); and he wears my Success is a Job and Amor Amor better than I do!

Apr
16
2015
sweetyspice
sweetyspice

Sounds intriguing! I have been looking for a spicy scent to add to my collection. Have to try this classic.

Apr
16
2015
kkoun
kkoun

There are certain things that must be left for women only and other certain things for men only. That being said anyone can wear any perfume they enjoy. It's a matter of preference, style, and personality. Something so lovely on a woman could be so sexy on a man and vice versa. One must not refrain from the perfume because of label, packaging or marketing. Your skin may prove you wrong!

Apr
16
2015
leila_mic
leila_mic

Although my signature is No 5, I very often take COCO from my wardrobe and wear it, for the feelings it gives me!
And YES, fragrances have no gender and my husband also wears mines, without any Problems - and he wears them great!!!

Apr
16
2015
kingiug
kingiug

Perfumes does not have gender on my planet. :D

Apr
16
2015
ntabassum92
ntabassum92

I love Coco so much :) Never thought I could love another Chanel as much as my precious No. 5, but if I get the chance to spend more time with Coco, I could be swayed ;)

Apr
16
2015
Annajayne
Annajayne

My husband - a big burly manly man - regularly and unabashedly wears (and wears them well) my perfume. It can be done, I promise! Be unafraid!

Apr
16
2015
risarii
risarii

Ah, Coco! I love her; the only Chanel I really love. There's something about Coco that's unlike any other perfume. It truly is addictive---I like to wear it around Christmas and try to keep it strictly for Fall/Winter but I can't help but sneak sniffs during the warm months. So beautiful.

Apr
16
2015
andronicos
andronicos

I believe that the only women's perfume I could easily wear would be Shalimar Parfum Initial by Guerlain but, I think Coco would be my second option.

Apr
16
2015
sherryberry
sherryberry

I love Coco!! I first wore it when I was about 21. Very spicy and sultry!! It has a certain charisma to it. For some reason, it reminds me of my favorite singer, Chris Isaak. I'm not sure why, but it does.

Apr
16
2015
juji
juji

Anyone who wears my love, Coco, make or femaje, is good in my book! My signature scent along with two orhers, Coco will always have my heart. I still swoon every single time I spray a bit of her and there is no other like her. Period.

Apr
16
2015

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