Fragrance Reviews Gucci Guilty Absolute: Playing Niche

Gucci Guilty Absolute: Playing Niche

01/11/17 08:17:17 (27 comments)

by: Miguel Matos

 

Gucci Guilty logo

The new masculine scent from Gucci, Guilty Absolute may sound like another flanker in the yawn-producing line of the same name. Even the cliché designation "absolute" is such a tired meaningless thing. But behold and admire! Forget the last years of senseless flankers and non-creative juices flooding the brand in sameness. Gucci Guilty Absolute is really a niche fragrance trying to make its way into the mainstream market in a recognizable bottle from a once-upon-a-time stunning brand. So, what made my nose dream? Woods, leather and patchouli in massive doses and unashamed sexuality, that's what.

Gucci Guilty Absolute Bottle and box

Born from a close collaboration between Gucci's creative director Alessandro Michele and master perfumer Alberto Morillas, Gucci Guilty Absolute is an ode to leather and this was done in a very realistic way, going also much further in evoking smoke and cognac, with an animalic undertone that brings up the beast within. In fact, leather is one of the most important elements in Gucci's fashion collections and this is like leather liquefied and put inside a bottle.

Leather Texture

Recently, we've seen a mainstream brand like Baldessarini playing with niche concepts for the fragrance Ultimate with great results. But the attempts to raise the bar in the mainstream market are scarce. Gucci did it in a pioneer way during the Tom Ford reign with Rush and Gucci Pour Homme, for example. But it stopped. Now, many years later, the Italian brand brings a rather deep and sultry composition to the shelves, with that same spirit of luxury plus substance and some innovation. And yes, I wouldn't be surprised if I would smell this fragrance in any niche brand during a show like Esxence or Pitti.

Alberto Morillas created here a fusion between two main raw materials in a composition that is not traditionally top-middle-base like in a pyramid structure. The scent is linear and reveals its character from the first moments, changing only a few elements during its development. The two main notes here are Woodleather, an aroma-chemical that smells like a leather accord and Goldenwood, a molecule with a woody accord. To these, he added a natural extract of Nootka cypress. The result is a very dry woody fragrance that has a suggestion of violet leaves in the first moments. This first impression is not the best part and it may lead you to think you've smelled it many times before. But it soon goes away and reveals the core of the fragrance which in fact is very close to a real oud perfume. To add depth, three different kinds of patchouli oil were added, bringing a sweet, earthy and deep base to it. Vetiver elongates the woody and earthy tones.

Gucci Guilty Absolute is a shy cousin of some great oud fragrances we've seen in the niche segment, recalling a watered version of Tiziana Terenzi's Ursa, more wearable and adapted to a wider audience. It manages to evoke the oud tones without in fact having oud in its composition, but even that is not a new thing. Let's remember Baruti's NOOUD, another scent that smells like oud without having a drop of it inside.

Jared Leto ad

The bottle of this new edition is basically the same as in all editions of the Guilty line. This time the bottle is made from clear glass, accentuating the design lines of the original in a truly beautiful object filled with a transparent brown liquid that seems like cognac. The box comes in a brown tobacco hue. Jared Leto is the face of the fragrance, in a campaign shot by Glen Luchford.

Gucci Guilty Absolute is available from March 2017 and it comes in 50, 90 and 150ml bottles in eau de parfum concentration.

Miguel Matos is a Portuguese journalist obsessed with perfume. Miguel likes to see himself as a fragrance curator, investigating perfume as contemporary art. He directs his own cultural magazine, Umbigo, and writes texts for museums and galleries. He is a vintage perfume collector and organizes regular talks called Vintage Perfume Sniffing and Olfatto L'Amore. Honorable member of the International Perfume Bottle Association. He did workshops for brands such as Versace, Grès, Roger & Gallet and Florescent. He also writes on beauty and grooming for Beautyalmanac.com. He is a Fragrantica writer, translator and editor of Fragrantica.com.br.



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Gumbinator
Gumbinator

@perfectambrosia Ahh I see. I didn't clue into the user name at first until now. Sorry about that.

Jan
15
2017
san123
san123

The bottle and the colour of the juice remind me of some good old Scotch :)

Jan
15
2017
VexedRomance
VexedRomance

No Dutchman, Tom Ford was used as a cover-up so the company could assimilate assets they had in an outside appropriation back into the company's bankhold.

Tom Ford's time at Gucci was spent in training, where they showed him the ropes and familiarized him with the suite of the business. If you actually pay attention to his work at Gucci, it was quite boring. Nothing too awe inspiriting, especially for the tastes of Italians, who tend to desire an extra touch of class as the mark of true craftsmanship.

He did much fancier work for Yves Saint Laurent, where you can tell he exemplifies the full scope of talent he learned while at Gucci.

You don't have to believe me, but I'm pretty sure this is the truest course of events.

Jan
14
2017
perfectambrosia
perfectambrosia

To 'Gumbinator'
migueldematos is the person who wrote the article above!!! Of course he has the perfume!!!

And by the sounds of it, I wish I did too!!! Oooooh!!! Gorgeous!!!

Jan
14
2017
Flying Dutchman
Flying Dutchman

@Vexed Romance: Let's not forget that before Tom Ford joined Gucci it was down on its luck brand with a dowdy image.
I do not like all that he did during his tenure, but he revived the brand and brought it back in the limelight with innovative and daring collections, including some excellent perfumes.

Jan
14
2017
VexedRomance
VexedRomance

Tom Ford's tenure at Gucci was a cover-up.

I personally find it to be bad technique for him to have helplessly gone along with it—without considering the importance of resisting at all. You should never be so comfortable to take more credit than you deserve. It creates such a liability—it fails to be a wise choice on so many fronts.

Gucci is the foundation of Italia, and has been that way long before Tom Ford's time. To think they would need any help at all, or that they would be at an absence of talent and creative work is just unreal.

One should expect they're always holding back, or that they're striving to be too humble, or too charitable in some way. This humble charity is the whole basis behind the "Tom Ford" era.

Gucci has assets on assets, no matter what static you see in the mainstream, I'm sure they feel like they have everything under control over there. I can't actually say that they know what they're doing though—or that what they choose is actually what's best for them and everyone else.

Personally, I wish they would stop holding back as much as they do. It's a discredit to the company's honor. And as the brand stands as Guccio's legacy, their neglect of their honor and reputation (the quality of the work they put forward) serves as a demerit to his namesake. It serves as a disgrace to the foundation of Italia—and the people that place their honor in the quality of their work.

For them alone, they should be holding nothing back; but instead, should be bringing everything they've got to the table, and consistently showing everyone who the boss is.

Jan
14
2017
originaldeftom
originaldeftom

Whether Procter & Gamble or Coty claim responsibility for this (yet another irrelevant reincarnation of a "new" flanker)is completely irrelevant to me as they usually churn out products below par.

Tom Ford's tenure at GUCCI is so sorely missed...

Jan
13
2017
istvan.buda.779
istvan.buda.779

The guy below me.You just read his article about it. I'm pretty sure Gucci sent him a bottle for review

Jan
12
2017
Gumbinator
Gumbinator

to buddy down below me here...if you "have it", tell us what it smells like then...

Jan
12
2017
migueldematos
migueldematos

@RJ Watson I have the product and the box says Procter & Gamble. Beyond the acquisitions, this is a fact.

Jan
12
2017
ameagari
ameagari

sounds awesome
jared leto is such a weird face for the campaign though, he seems more of john varvatos kind of dude.

Jan
12
2017
marycelia.vanderbilt
marycelia.vanderbilt

I've never really forgiven Gucci for discontinuing Gucci Eau de Parfum (the brown one). This one, unlike Gucci's other flankers however, sounds interesting.

Jan
12
2017
RJ Watson
RJ Watson

According to their July 9th 2016 release, Procter & Gamble sold Gucci fragrances to Coty Prestige (along with fragrance brands Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Escada, & Hugo Boss, among others). The deals were completed in the second half of 2016.

Fragrantica has the correct information on their Gucci brand page but P&G was mentioned as the license holder in a couple of the comments. Just wanted to clear up any confusion.

Jan
12
2017
veda
veda

I think I want this...;)

Jan
12
2017
damightyheru
damightyheru

First Gucci Intense Oud which is outstanding and now this...
This actually sounds very interesting...
Makes one wonder why put out such a seemingly dark scent in the spring...Regardless I'm looking forward to this...

Jan
12
2017
Dorjee
Dorjee

Yeah, like we’re gonna believe it ha!
Nice try Gucci!

Jan
11
2017
olfactorium
olfactorium

A masterful release from Gucci is long overdue. Liquefied leather and blended patchouli oil sound like fine intoxicants for the nose. Could Guilty Absolute be the cure for the lack of character attributed to this series in remarks or is it just a case of March Madness? The signs are quite auspicious regarding Alberto Morillas and his many triumphs. This should be a big, fat Gucci hit! Eager to try.

Jan
11
2017
Fablab
Fablab

I was about to skip this one, as the line Guilty is horrible (even tho, the last commercial was fantastic), but know I am looking forward to testing it

Jan
11
2017
ThatMakesScents
ThatMakesScents

Give me a good reason to spend money, I shall spend it.



Let's Hope.

Jan
11
2017
Vegas Pauli
Vegas Pauli

Because Gucci Guilty Black is so awful, I rolled my eyes at this one until I read this entire article. I will leave my assumptions at the door and eagerly try this one. Hopefully it will put Gucci back on the map

Jan
11
2017
SolangeN
SolangeN

"For men?". We'll see. Love those notes and wear Dior's gorgeous Eau Sauvage "parfum" myrrh bomb "for men" often. No flowers does not necessarily a "men's" scent make. Those of us who are women and grew up in the golden age of Paloma, Fendi Donna and Magie Noire may find this right up our alley. Sure would be nice to find mainstream frags that don't smell like my kid smeared cotton candy all over my shirt. First SJP Stash and now this. Things are looking up.

Jan
11
2017
Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

Yes Miguel, you are terrible for peoples bank accounts. My bank manager ( another Portugueezer) wonders whether I eat at all spending so much on fumes.
I want this juice! Dry woods, suggestion of violet leaves, whiff of oud?! Smitten. The bottle is achingly chic too in its lux simplicity and deep colour. Can't wait for March.

Jan
11
2017
migueldematos
migueldematos

@antonpan it's PG

Jan
11
2017
Mr Cornells
Mr Cornells

I'm nailing this! I hope this lands my region before March!!!

Jan
11
2017
Buysblind
Buysblind

Sounds excellent from your description The fact that Alberto Morillas is behind this is even more promising!

Jan
11
2017
antonpan
antonpan

Miguel, is this a Coty creation or still PG's?

Jan
11
2017
perfumecritic
perfumecritic

You're terrible for my bank account, Miguel, lol!!! WANT!!!!!

Jan
11
2017

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