Interviews He Can Leave His Hat On: Exclusive Interview with Romano Ricci, Owner and Perfumer for Juliette Has a Gun

He Can Leave His Hat On: Exclusive Interview with Romano Ricci, Owner and Perfumer for Juliette Has a Gun

11/20/09 09:24:27

By: Michelyn Camen

I have interviewed Romano Ricci, the founder and now perfumer of Juliette Has a Gun on several occasions. He is the grandson of Robert Ricci, the founder of the Nina Ricci fragrance empire, and the great grandson of the iconic couturier Nina Ricci; fragrance and style is in his DNA. He has matured as a man and as a serious perfumer. He honors the birthright of his legacy, but followed his own path. With his newest fragrance Calamity J, (which in my opinion is his best Juliette yet) he may just prove that he is one of the most promising perfumers of the 21st century.
 

 
Rebonjour Romano…Where were you born and  please share with us some memories  of your childhood?
 
Romano Ricci: I was born in Paris and spent most of my childhood using the factory of Parfums Nina Ricci as a playground! At the age of 10, my grandfather taught me how to recognize the different notes and how fragrances were produced. I was very proud of him.

What is your first olfactive memory?
 
Romano Ricci:
My first olfactive memory is the smell of L’Air du Temps which perfumed the whole family factory! I really enjoyed this gardenia note that today, makes me feel at home… I have also a very strong memory about my grandfather’s perfume. I remember him, his house, his clothes smelled of Signoricci. It was a sensual and masculine fragrance. To my point of view, one of the best male fragrance ever.
 

Growing up a Ricci, was there any pressure put on you to follow in your grandfather's footsteps?

Romano Ricci: I never had pressure from my family. I was very young when I got initiated to perfumery by my grandfather and I have always been very sensitive to scents in general. It came from my education I guess and even though I have other passions such as car racing which I practiced several years, I came back to perfumery because I know it is my way to express myself. My grandfather shared with me his passion but that was it. My adventure with Juliette today only involves me, and my need to create scents.
 
Where did you study perfumery?

Romano Ricci: I never studied perfumery at school; I went to a business school and entered the perfumery industry at very young age as a product manager. No one there knew who I was or of my family connection. I worked there for eight years. I learnt a lot from my grandfather and from a lot of perfumers I worked with during this time.


 
The burning question: why did you name the company Juliette has a Gun?
 
Romano Ricci: Working 10 years into the perfumery field, I have always thought that modern perfumery was kind of shy… I wanted to offer to modern women a new universe: lost between romance and desire of independence, Juliette is armed because she affirms her personality. Juliette stands for the romantic heroine of Shakespeare; the ’gun’ is her weapon of seduction… her perfume of course.
 
Why are your fragrances are called "episodes?"

Romano Ricci: My fragrances show the different life stages of Juliette. At first she is romantic and full of illusions (Miss Charming), then she asserts her personality and becomes more of a rebel (Lady Vengeance)! Next, she is mature enough to understand that sensuality is a real power (Citizen Queen) and finally our Juliette reveals her animal instinct (Calamity J).    
 
Please talk about the evolution of the brand from its debut with Lady Vengeance to Calamity J)?
 

Romano Ricci: At first, I launched my perfumes only in France, but we immediately received a lot of inquiries  from around the world. The whole story evolved to be much greater and I worked harder and deeper into exploring the concept, confident that it would seduce women and the men who around them.
 
Today, we have a presence in 45 countries and 1000 hand picked concept stores, niche perfumeries and department stores.



When you hired Francis Kurkdjian for Miss Charming and Lady Vengeance, explain the collaborative process. Was Francis a ‘gun’ for hire?
Regarding Miss Charming and Lady Vengeance, I shared my concept  with Francis Kurkdjian and I think that he recognized that Juliette Has a Gun was a very modern approach to perfumery. I didn't create perfumes on my own before so I needed one of the best perfumers by my side. I really enjoyed our collaboration on Lady Vengeance and Miss Charming but then I decided to create fragrances on my own.
  

You were a race car driver and also someone who enjoys the night life. When did you say, “OK, now I am ready to be a serious perfumer?”

Romano Ricci: I am still fond of car racing and  practice as much as possible, and I still enjoy night life, but they are not the focus of my life.
 
But you are totally right, running a company takes a lot of time and a 24/7 personal commitment, so have I become more serious. I launched Juliette has a Gun three years ago because at that time I felt mature enough to begin my own company.
 
I see perfumery as an Art, and as any other art you have ‘codes’ to be aware of. But as a creator, my role is to break some of them. 

Are you and Erwin Creed, (the seventh generation of the House of CREED), still good friends? How did you meet?

Romano Ricci: Erwin and I grew up together in a little village near Fontainebleau and we are still very close friends today. Working in the same business is quite funny…when we travel we spy on each others distributors.
 
Please share with us how you met  Lou Doillon, the daughter of actress and singer Jane Birkin, who is  your  ‘muse’  for Calamity J? When you first launched Lady Vengeance, (and I was there), I remember there was a lot of  blah blah blogging that you were  just a rich kid playing with perfume. Almost 3 years later, your fragrances are outselling and outperforming so many others... do you feel vindicated?
 
Romano Ricci: I think that there are very few things in my life as enjoyable as that actually... Year after year, it brings me more confidence and more energy. It's just keeps getting better and better.
 
I noticed the last time we met you were drinking Veuve Clicqot champagne with ice… What’s with the ice?

Romano Ricci:
I like breaking rules! 


 
Please share with us how you Lou Doillon, the daughter of actress and singer Jane Birkin, who is now the ‘muse’ of Calamity J?

Romano Ricci: I met Lou at a party.  While we were talking, I realized she was wearing Lady Vengeance and asked her about it and she confirmed that she was indeed a fan. After revealing my identity, I told her about my latest episode on Juliette – a fragrance inspired by Calamity Jane.

Lou was so excited by this and told me, that coincidentally that she was actually researching Calamity Jane she for a theater monologue. So it happened very organically that she became the face of the brand.

 
The composition of Calamity J is listed as:

Top Note: No Top Note…
Heart Note: Patchouli, Iris, Amber
Base Note: Musk, Vanilla Infusion
 

No top notes…why?
 
Romano Ricci: I wanted to create this fragrance differently from all my others…without traditional top notes (i.e. bergamot, lemon) in the scent. In this way Calamity J is a different Juliette than in her other life stages.
 
What is in store for 2010? At one time you suggested breaking into fashion design like your great grandmother or will you continue on your path in perfumery?

Romano Ricci: The Calamity J version of the purse bullet should be available next spring, and I am currently working on a limited edition, on a fifth fragrance...
 
Regarding the fashion project, wouldn’t it be cool? I am still working on it and I am really seduced by the challenge but there are profitability issues that we still have to work on. 

 

Please tell me something you never revealed in any of our encounters and interviews...


Romano Ricci:
I am a heart to take… :)
 

Images: Juliette Has a Gun, mistress_f


Michelyn Camen is a New York City based writer and consultant who is a former Brandweek Marketer of the Year and Ad Age 100 recipient. She slipped off her power suit to pursue her passion for beauty and fragrance. Camen is a fragrance specialist and the owner of FifthSense N.Y.C., where she consults for niche luxury, fashion, beauty and fragrance companies.  
She is the Editor-at-Large www.fashiontribes.com a top ten fashion e-zine and the Fragrance Editor for UptownSocial.net. Michelyn is  the former Senior Contributing Writer for Sniffapalooza Magazine, the former New in Niche Columnist for Basenotes and was the Editorial Director for Beauty News NYC & LA. Email her at fifthsensenyc@aol.com
 

 



tenderblossoms
tenderblossoms

in between the turkey cooking and my kids screaming they are hungry, I logged onto fragrantica for a perfume break.. and read this itnerview. Oh juliette has a Gun's citizen queen is my favorite. I never knew anyhting about this line and I am so happy to read this story

Nov
26
2009
she loves perfumes
she loves perfumes

I love Romano Ricci's brand (and he's so handsome).I own everyone except calamity j . xmas gift to me

Nov
25
2009
perfumista diva
perfumista diva

Love Love Juliette has a Gun.. have every one and am sampling Calamity j. Enjoyed learning about the brand, and Romano Ricci is DREAMY!!!! Also love the ad with Lou Douillon..she's so chic

Nov
24
2009
Andy Austin
Andy Austin

Always interesting interviews from Michelyn, and this is no exception. My wife wore L'air du Temps...when we met never knew this company was connected to the Ricci family. And I think the gentleman Romano Ricci looks great in a hat

Nov
24
2009
cynthia44
cynthia44

oh I am so in love with Miss charming and I learned so much from this interview. congratulations to Romano Ricci, the perfumer... I do love my roses... and will order samples of citizen queen... because i love the name, it sounds like citizen kane...

Nov
23
2009
legerdenez
legerdenez

Thanks for another great interview and celebrity scoop.

Nov
22
2009
gigimeansgood
gigimeansgood

L'Air du Temps was one of my all time favorites - the empty bottles were m toys when I was a hild. Thanks for this evocative interview and for showing us the direction this fragrance house is taking for the future.
Gigi

Nov
22
2009
gblue
gblue

I've enjoyed every one of your interviews, Michelyn.

I love the concept behind the brand - didn't realise there was a whole story to go alongside it.

Nov
22
2009
Rita @leftcoastnose
Rita @leftcoastnose

I've tried three of the JhaG series ("Lady Vengence," "Miss Charming" and "Midnight Oud"-- my fav so far.) I agree that this is an EXCITING line of smells. I can't wait to find "Calamity J" -- I hadn't even heard of it!

I like the idea of a scent without top notes-- I want to get to the heart of "what it smells like" right away-- often I am either put off (if I don't like) or disappointed (if I do) by ephemeral notes that blow off and are gone in a few minutes.

Rita @leftcoastnose

Nov
22
2009
Flora55
Flora55

He is adorably cute, and he seems so nice too! I wish him all success. Thanks for another great interview!

Nov
21
2009
memechose
memechose

Romano 's signature is his fedora hat and he is a fan of joe cocker who did a great cover to this song.it is not a reference to the movie and if you read the interview you will learn why he leaves his hat on.:) and it has nothing to do with a MOvie that belittles women. he worships women

Nov
21
2009
weegee
weegee

Interesting article but I'm truly puzzled by the title you chose: "He Can Leave His Hat On". This seems to reference a well-known Randy Newman Song "You Can Leave Your Hat On". In it he exhorts a sexy woman to remove everything she's wearing, including her shoes,turn all the lights on, stand naked on a chair and wave her arms around... while keeping her hat on... all of which gives him "reason to live".

I find the reference makes it difficult to focus on Romano Ricci.

Nov
21
2009
Kterhark
Kterhark

Note to Romano: You could use your sexy sweet self as the face for your products and they would sell just fine :-) (But I love, love, love Lou's image, wow!)

I'm expecting 1-2 of these bottles in my stocking this christmas season-heehee!

Nov
21
2009
shastaesscents
shastaesscents

Thanks again for the great interview Michelyn. I have been so curious about Juliette...
Great in interview!!

Nov
21
2009
memechose
memechose

MB- I think midnight oud is not part of the life stages of Juliet and is a fragrance under the brand , but not an 'episode'... You do know your Juliette has a gun" :)

Nov
21
2009
riverspirit (wendy)
riverspirit (wendy)

I really like the look of those Calamity Jane purse bullets, what a beautiful idea and would love one in my purse too!
Thanks again for another insightful interview into someone else's world. I was interested to read about the different life stages of Juliette. Calamity Jane im keen to try you!


and yes we all like the last line, good answer Romano Ricci.

Bang Bang Michelyn :)

Nov
20
2009
Somerville Metro Man
Somerville Metro Man

I just love these interviews that you do Michelyn.
The more I learn about these artists the more impressed I am by their creations.
I was surprised Romano didn't mention Midnight Oud as it also is another great fragrance in the Juliette Has A Gun line.

Nov
20
2009
cgt
cgt

Great interview. I loved his description of how he came up with the brand name. It is so clever and memorable. And I'm dying to try Calamity J with, imagine, no top notes. So intriguing.

Nov
20
2009
jeca
jeca

The name of the brand attracts very much indeed ;o) I remember when I first time heard it, I wanted to smell it right away ;o) There is so many old houses with traditional ideas and ideals, I absolutely agree with you that perfumers and houses should be focused on Modern time and audience.

Romano, I think it's the right thing to create your perfumes on your own. Especially if you do it so well ;o) Honestly I was very skeptical, but with your last creation you've got my respect, and i think not only mine. Thank you, Michelyn, for the best interview with Romano I've read.

Nov
20
2009
Kathryn
Kathryn

It is so fascinating to see how personality and biography influence the balance of art, craft and commerce in making perfume. The more of these interviews that you write, Michelyn, the more I value the insight you give me into my own taste and values.

Nov
20
2009
chayaruchama
chayaruchama

Another coup for you, MC !

Isn't he a fascinating character.
I enjoy his work- but THIS is the one I'm most curious to sniff.

His bullet idea was brilliant.

Nov
20
2009
zoka
zoka

I was really surprised to know about Romano as a perfumer for Juliette! My respect and congratulations for the best perfumes in Collection, Citizen Queen and Calamity J!

I know a lot of people who have been attracted to the brand by its name, me too ;o)

Nov
20
2009
danna
danna

this was an itneresting interview michelyn...he really does seem to be creating a new type of perfumery and I never realized there was a story to the brand. Champagne and ice... made me laugh, and his last sentence, I am a hear to be taken, made me cry... he can have mine ...really he can

Nov
20
2009

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