Interview with Ilias Ermenidis

05/13/09 23:12:32

By: Elena Knezevic

Ilias Ermenidis is a nose behind such well known perfumes as: Victoria Secret Heavenly (FiFi award 2000, bestseller in the USA), signature fragrance for Gucci (Gucci by Gucci), lovely Princess for Vera Wang (with Harry Fremont), romantic So De la Renta for Oscar de la Renta, manly, classy and modern fragrances for Givenchy (Pour Homme, Blue Label, Greenenergy, Oblique FF, with Alberto Morillas), Hugo Boss, Aramis, Jil Sander...

Byblos was his first success: fun, playful and uncommon at the time it came out (1990). The latest creations by Ilias are Victoria Secret Heavenly Bloom and Valentino Rock N'Dreams (introduced this month).

Ilias Ermenidis was born in Istanbul, he moved to Athens at the age of ten. Leaving his home in Athens at the age of eighteen, Ilias relocated to France to study at the Institut Supérieur International du Parfum (ISIPCA) in Versailles. After studying there for 3 years Ilias continued his training at Creations Aromatiques in Paris, and then he was hired by Firmenich in Geneva in 1986. He worked as a Fine Fragrance Perfumer at Firmenich Paris from 1988 to 1995. Ilias lives and works in New York now.

You decided to become a perfumer at a very young age. Why? Was it your first and only choice or were there any alternatives?

Ilias Ermenidis: I used to spend summers in my father’s flavor&fragrance factory in Istanbul. After finishing high school in Athens I went to France to learn the language and study Economics but I discovered the ISIP (Institut Superieur International du Parfum), that unique school in Versailles and decided it was the perfect fit.

This was 1981, I fell in love with ingredients and decided creative perfumery was my calling. It meant I wasn’t going back to the family business. I would play with my perfumery formulas and essential oils during flavors, cosmetics or chemistry courses!

How do you create a perfume? What is the most exiting?

Ilias Ermenidis: Creation can take anywhere between 3 seconds and 3 years! Sometimes its like writing a novel. The most exciting part is those mornings when you can feel the rush in your stomach to get to the lab asap and try this and that. Granted, its not as universal as music but fragrance has its own language... it can transport you, it can become addictive and emotional, or aesthetically and erotically appealing.

You created several perfumes with other perfumers. How does it feel to create a perfume together?

Ilias Ermenidis: Sometimes we need a fresh look into a fragrance especially if the development process has been dragging for too long. Meaningful collaboration is important. This is true on the creative, emotional and relational level. For example, Alberto Morillas and I often work together on US or European projects. Confidence and respect are important factors here.

Development of chemistry and new synthetic materials were viewed as future of perfumery in the beginning of the last century. People prefer seeing natural ingredients in perfume compositions now. Why is that so? Where does future lie in?

Ilias Ermenidis: Its part of the trend but molecules, especially the innovative captives available to me at Firmenich will always bring uniqueness and performance to creations for as long as we can create fragrances. Part of natural’s future also lies in new extraction methods, for example reinventing ways to distill a much better Vetyver oil, be it for its texture, richness, tonality, etc.

Which are your favorite natural and artificial materials?

Ilias Ermenidis: There are of course many but its unusual for me not to use mimosa, davana or everlasting absolute. On the molecule side, we have beautiful radiant textures, for example Hedione® and Ambrox® which are constantly being perfected by our R&D colleagues.

You created many fragrant hits. What does success of a perfume mean to you personally: your own achievement, acknowledgment by your colleagues, acknowledgment by the public?

Ilias Ermenidis: All of the above of course but mostly it’s a wonderful feeling of joy for everyone participating in a creative adventure. On our side and on the client side its especially rewarding if the fragrance happens to have success in the marketplace.

Is there a fragrance (fragrant memory or fantasy) you dream to realize?

Ilias Ermenidis: Yes! the intoxicating scent emanating from the “night flower” growing twenty yards down the alley from my house in Greece. Every summer I add a couple of ingredients in the imaginary formula in my mind and trust me this is not an abstract olfactive form. I hope to get it right before I retire.

Which are great perfumers and their creations of past and present in your opinion?

Ilias Ermenidis: Truly, there are many perfumers who’s work and style I admire. How can I not mention Francois Coty's creations, or Diorella and Eau Sauvage and the legendary Edmond Roudnitska whom I had the chance to meet in 1983 during my 2nd year of studies when I was doing research on Moustache de Rochas.

There are of course well known and little known masterpieces like Amarige, Cristalle, First, Tresor, Fahrenheit, Light Blue, Acqua di Gio, Chanel 19, L'Heure Bleue, Azzaro, Macassar, Mitsouko, Cool Water, Mystere,

Nahema, YouthDew, L eau d Issey Pour Homme, Lolita lempicka, Coco, Nocturnes, Eau des Merveilles, Declaration, Minotaure, Kenzo Flower, Aromatics Elixir…

I could go on and on.
The idea, the “writing”, the execution behind these creations, is phenomenal.

What is important in your life, besides perfumes?

Ilias Ermenidis: Way above my unlimited passion for my craft stands my children’s health and happiness. How could it be otherwise? I feel very blessed on both fronts.

What positive can be brought about by the crisis in perfume industry, in your opinion? How could it affect the status of perfumes, audience, producers?

Ilias Ermenidis: I wish for brands to concentrate on building more of their existing equity-some names have lots of potential left. Look at what the wine and diamond industries have done. We need to get dream and passion back into the relationship with the consumer.