Interviews Interview with Luca Gritti from Gritti Venetia

Interview with Luca Gritti from Gritti Venetia

05/24/16 11:32:40 (One comment)

by: Sergey Borisov

At the Esxence 2016 exposition, Sergey spoke with Dr. Gritti, from Gritti Venetia, a conversation from which you could learn about the new perfumes of Gritti Venetia, that perfumer dynasties are great for building family relations, that ten is a dominant successful number, and which perfume has as much light as Nicole Kidman.

Luca Gritti

Sergey Borisov: Dear Luca, first, let me say that I am totally smitten with Mathi (Mathi Parfum Privé Gritti Venetia). It’s the most beautiful Damask Rose I’ve ever tried in my life! What’s the story behind its creation? Is it just Rose absolute, or its reconstruction, and nothing more?

Luca Gritti: Mathi and Loodi are the nicknames of my two daughters, Mathilde and Lodovica. So the perfumes were devoted to them, and for me these perfumes are very important. I tried to express the characters of my daughters in the perfumes. Loody is 12 now, she’s the eldest daughter and she has a very strong character similar to mine, so I included some animalic notes in her perfume. Mathi is my younger daughter (11 years old now) and she’s tender and sweet, so I made her perfume like tender rose petals; Damask rose absolute with a sweet honey accord. The perfume is made just with two components only.

Sergey Borisov: Do they both wear them?

Luca Gritti: Yes, they wear them, but not every day. Perfume is not as important to them. Actually, I wish that Lodovica would become a perfumer. She has an evident talent and character for that.

Sergey Borisov: It’s something that hasn't been very popular in art-perfumery so far, a new intimacy: perfumes as an invitation to be a part of the family. How did you get the idea – not only attaching history to perfume but attaching your perfumes to your own family, to the real people?

Luca Gritti: (laughing) Smelling my daughters! Well, my family - the Grittis of Venice - has been around since the 6th century, and most of them were perfumers, they made perfumes for themselves and anyone who wanted them, with great passion. I hope that my daughters will continue the family tradition, to become the next generation of the dynasty. I don't see anything wrong for me as a perfumer to invite people to become a part of our perfume family, clients have always been part of the brand's family.

Sergey Borisov: In order to know more about your brand, could we find out more about your background – education, professional background, connections with arts and perfumery?

Luca Gritti: I was a rebel for a long time. I have a chemical education, but I decided at the age of 23 that I didn’t want to be a perfumer. And so I worked as a financial consultant for some time, until at the age of 30 I decided to return to the family perfume business. My grandfather’s manufacturing company had started in 1946 in Venice, but by that time it also had a branch in Bologna and it was manufacturing some perfume formulations by contracts for other companies. When I came back to the family business in 2010, I established the Dr. Gritti Venetia brand as a separate niche perfume business, and we started to produce Gritti perfume collections for the family enterprise. Here at Esxence, we’re presenting two new perfumes, Decimo and Magnifica Lux.

Sergey Borisov: Gritti's conceptual advantage is based upon the use of more sophisticated materials, like Damask Rose, Laos Oud or French Tuberose. What were the special materials for Decimo and Magnifica Lux? And what are your views on modern synthetics so far?

Luca Gritti: I used Bergamot oil from Calabria and Patchouli oil in Decimo; in Magnifica Lux I used natural Orris from Florence and Myrrh resin from Ethiopia and Somali, as well as Ambroxan. Decimo is about 30% natural and 70% synthetics; and Magnifico Lux is about 50% and 50%. When you use only naturals, it’s not a real perfume for me, actually.

Sergey Borisov: The new perfumes you’re presenting here are additions to your first collection, The Black Collection. Could you tell our readers about the new perfumes’ concepts?

Luca Gritti: Decimo means “ten” in Italian. Ten is the number that has always stood for ‪perfection, ‪harmony and the measure of all things. It is the beginning and end of all things, is the eternal becoming... The number is divine, as it brings together a lot of numbers. Definitively it is a dominant SUCCESSFUL number. And the fragrance is pure virility – it’s strong and clear. Imagine a man who is timeless and indifferent to fashion, who’s faithful only to himself. That’s the Decimo man.

Magnifica Lux has its roots in Latin language – Lux means “light”. Light is the power behind nature and everything; no illumination – no knowledge, hence enlightenment. Light has always been associated with philosophical and spiritual meanings. This intimate fragrance is tender and precious, it wraps around its wearer like a Cashmere shawl. It’s a feminine hug, a very contemporary fragrance, the iris done in an unusual way, with an ambery, musky and woody development at the same time. It’s a very precise composition.

 

Sergey's description:

Decimo – a bright and vibrant fragrance that is composed as a fresh gray fougere with a sweet lavender-apple start and a gray ambergris sillage. A variation on the theme previously explored by Green Irish Tweed Creed, Cool Water Davidoff, Drakkar Noir Guy Laroche. A typical male of the 90s.

Notes: Bergamot, Lavender, Black Currant, Sichuan pepper, Patchouli, Ambroxan, Gray amber, Musk, Balms and Resins.

Magnifica Lux – a cozy perfume with a soft predominance of warm myrrh and other resins in its sillage. It’s a homely fragrance to greet the guests and do the honors of the house, to watch TV and play quiet board games, to bake apple pies and to comfort the children. There is a transparent tree resin and some cypress oil in the slightly empty beginning, but from the warm heart on, everything in Magnifica Lux is quiet and nice.

Notes: Iris, Myrrh, Cypress, Patchouli, Amber, Musk, Honey and Resins.

Together they form a pair in a rather traditional image of the family: man and woman, breadwinner and housewife, mother and the hero.

 

 

Sergey Borisov: Could you link the new perfumes with some personalities? Actors, sportsmen, politicians?

Luca Gritti: Well, let me think… I’d say that Magnifica Lux is Nicole Kidman, the Australian actress, because of the light inside – the woman and the perfume both radiate a certain bright light. As for Decimo… (long pause) it could be every man, a wild man, a person like me.

Sergey Borisov: Like a rocker? Black ripped jeans, black t-shirt, short black leather jacket… the looks of a rocker.

Luca Gritti: Well, bikers also fit the picture. Wild men riding bikes.

Sergey BorisovOK, perfect – but it’s not a businessman in a navy suit driving  his Mercedes-Benz.

Luca Gritti: That’s correct, not a businessman. But you cannot ban businessmen from buying it. If they feel themselves wild at heart, they can wear it anyway. Decimo is a fresh perfume with vibrations; it has a grey amber animalic accord…


---------------------------

The Gritti family is quite well known in Venice. History shows there was the 77th Grand Doge of Venice named Andrea Gritti, and his son Alvise Gritti born in Istanbul, during a diplomatic mission. And now the Gritti Venetia perfume brand is holding the banner.

Photos: fragrantica; Gritti Venetia facebook page

Sergey Borisov

Sergey Borisov has been involved in perfumery since the early 90`s when he had his own perfume-devoted program “Close to Body” on Krasnoyarsk radio (1993). As a perfume enthusiast (known as moon_fish), he became famous in Russia for his translation of  Luca Turin's Perfume: Le Guide. He made a career as a fragrance journalist and contributed to such distinguished magazines as GQ, Vogue, Elle, Cosmopolitan, Interview, Forbes, Allure, Robb Report, Flacon, Departure, RBC-Style, TSUM-Magazine (2008-2016). His own online columns for RBC-Style.ru, Vogue.ru, and GQ.ru (2006-2015) have earned him international recognition and an invitation to be an editor for the Russian edition of “The Little Book of Perfumes” by Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez.  Sergey Borisov was invited as a speaker at Esxence 2012 (Milano) and Intercharm 2015 (Moscow). In 2013, Sergey joined the Fragrantica team.

 



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Thomaso7
Thomaso7

It's nice to read articles about other perfumers, and goings on in the perfume business. including conventions.

May
27
2016

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