Fragrance Reviews Jo Malone Vanilla & Anise

Jo Malone Vanilla & Anise

09/24/09 18:27:10

By: Mark Behnke

One of the things I find to be disappointing is that too few perfumers use anise as the strong leading man it should be. I enjoy the deep dark slightly sweet accord of anise quite a bit and in scents like Guerlain L’Instant pour Homme or Lolita Lempicka au Masculine anise is used with a boldness that appeals to me. While both of those fragrances are fine for scratching my anise itch, like Oliver Twist I can’t help asking for “More, please”.

It seems my pleas were heard over in the perfumer’s laboratory at Jo Malone as their recent release Vanilla & Anise has joined my anise rotation.



According to a biography in 2008 in Vogue, Jo Malone started out her career as a florist by day and at night she gave facials using homemade products based on natural ingredients. She would open her first store in 1994, in London, and begin producing a line of bath, body and home fragrance products. Ms. Malone sold the company to Estee Lauder in 2006.

I have always appreciated the philosophy behind the line of Jo Malone fragrances to use natural ingredients to make unexpectedly interesting combinations. Three of my favorites from the line are Black Vetyver Café, which is probably my most frequently worn coffee scent; Sweet Lime & Cedar, and Dark Amber & Ginger Lily. In all of these the combination of the two titular notes are front and center and they all combine in ways that keep me coming back for more. Vanilla & Anise continues that trend as those two notes are the prevailing notes in this fragrance and I keep coming back for more.

The funny thing is for a scent called Vanilla & Anise you would expect the accords to appear in order of their billing but here it is the anise that makes the opening statement. Right from the first moments the anise appears it is everything I want from it. It comes in with a bold depth and it is joined by a note of wild fennel which tilts the anise more towards its herbal side than its licorice candy side. There is also a slightly sweet neroli in the top which does lend a tiny dollop of contrast to the anise. 

The anise stays in place as the development moves into the heart with a sweet floral accord dominated by frangipani. This sweetness is the appropriate lead-in for the source of vanilla in this scent, the vanilla orchid. This vanilla accord is not the baking vanilla or the less sweet vanilla of vanilla pods.

This vanilla has a mix of delicate floral characteristics along with the easily recognized vanilla. In conjunction with the anise it makes the middle part of Vanilla & Anise a completely unique mix of lightly sweet herbal with sweet floral. The base keeps things interesting as a very faint clove note, in conjunction with vanilla absolute and tonka, take Vanilla & Anise into more traditional vanilla fragrance territory. There is some amber here to lend some warmth to the base, as well.

Vanilla & Anise definitely upholds the attribute of taking notes and giving me a new appreciation for them which seems to have become a Jo Malone trademark for me. Another Jo Malone trademark, literally, is their concept of Fragrance CombiningTM.

In the press materials sent with my sample they suggest combining Vanilla & Anise with their Grapefruit, Orange Blossom, or Vetyver Colognes. I didn’t try any of those as I was inspired instead by something else.

Living in Boston I often visit the North End which is our version of Little Italy. When I go there I most always get espresso with a shot of the anise flavored liqueur anisette added. It was my thought to combine Vanilla & Anise with Black Vetyver Café to create that accord. Not surprisingly these two scents do create that coffee and anisette accord I was looking for and I think I’m going to be wearing this combination quite a bit in the upcoming winter months.

That is one of the beauties of these Jo Malone Fragrances is the ability to combine them into your own signature mixture.

Vanilla & Anise has average longevity on me but does require a healthy application to attain that longevity. There is also modest sillage to Vanilla & Anise, as well. While it seems that there are a number of vanilla scents being released these days there are much fewer anise scents out there and that’s the reason to give Vanilla & Anise a try.
 

Images: fotoosVan Robin, acfou

 


Author: Mark Behnke  (Somervill Metro Man)
Fragrantica Writer

Mark Behnke is based in Somerville, MA, a suburb of Boston, and is the writer for Fragrantica. By day, he works as a research chemist in a pharmaceutical company. By night, he has been a consistent poster on the forums at Basenotes.net under his nom de blog, Somerville Metro Man. You can also follow Mark on Twitter @SomMetroMan if you're curious to find out what he wears on a day-to-day basis.
 

 



ScentMode
ScentMode

Hey there Nebraska, I have to say that when I wear this scent it follows me all day and elicits positive comments from friends and strangers alike, plus I can smell it on me well into the night and the next day! So I think it depends on how the nose perceives it but to my mind it does indeed have a wonderful sillage and longevity to it.
Nice review too :-)

Oct
02
2009
veuve
veuve

Great review, Mark!
Your review coupled with my Love Of The Day, Etro Anice, has me even more curious for this JM than I already was.
I hear ya on wishing more 'fumes would have aniseed as a protagonist.

Oct
01
2009
perfumista diva
perfumista diva

great job Mark... I will try this fragrance with my orange blossom or grapefruit, I also have pomegrante noir

Sep
27
2009
Andy Austin
Andy Austin

nice review.... I am going to try this

Sep
25
2009
distortech
distortech

This sounds great. I love anise!

Sep
25
2009
Brielle87
Brielle87

Wonderful review Mark. You are so correct, Anise is not as widely used in the starring role as it should be.
Sounds very test worthy.

Sep
25
2009
memechose
memechose

Mark... great idea about layering. At first I didn't care for the vanille & anise, but I layered it with nutmeg and ginger BATH OIL and it was fantastic....love it. BTW layering with the bath oil holds the scent longer

Sep
25
2009
Manouchkeva
Manouchkeva

Very interesting article !
I received this week a sample of it.
Very Jo Malone, chic and light, not really risky but still interesting.
I'm not really a Vanilla lover, as many creations these last 20 years made too "show off", too heavy.
Just like Jeca, I know the Etro anise, quite tough, but I like these kind of scents. Vanilla and anise go well together, and I still have some in my sample to test it with "Pomegranate Noir" and "Dark Amber and Ginger Lily".
But the thing is... there is one vanilla with whom I fell in love, and the comparaison is of course hard now... "Havana Vanille" by l'Artisan Parfumeur.

Sep
25
2009
flittersniffer
flittersniffer

Very good review! I love this scent so much I am currently angling for one of three bottles currently on UK Ebay - okay, you might say that if I loved it that much I would pay full retail, but I love it quite a lot, for sure!

Sep
25
2009
jeca
jeca

Mark, have you tried Anice by Etro? It's quite linear, but it's ANISE, too much anise for my nose! ;o))) But I must admit that anise (fresh green spicy and airy) is so good with floral and sweet notes.

Your review made me curious about its harmony with vanilla in Jo Malone's new perfume. It must be a very comfortable scent.

Sep
24
2009
zoka
zoka

SMM I also live Jo Malone fragrances and in their shop I can sniff around the array of testers with big pleasure. Whole shop is white and very elegant. I like their boxes, bags and everything is simple vanilla white and black lace, minimalistic bottle whit shiny cap.

You have made very good review and I still did not try this new fragrance. You made me curious because I like anise it is very Mediterranean plant and smells great especially during the hot summer days when breeze brings its smell.

Sep
24
2009
NebraskaLovesScent
NebraskaLovesScent

Ooh! I also love anise!

I'm bummed to hear that the persistence and sillage are just so-so on this one. Still, it sounds test-worthy.

Sep
24
2009
falovalo
falovalo

Great article. The fragrance sounds wonderful, vanilla and anise sound like the kind of combination that I like.

Sep
24
2009

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