Fragrance Reviews Love Sweet Love: Éléonore

Love Sweet Love: Éléonore

01/06/17 06:51:25 (4 comments)

by: Miguel Matos

After so much perfume talk about vanilla and gourmand, these words are almost like synonyms. But sometimes they are not. And even if Rancé 1795 describes their new fragrance Éléonore as their new gourmand edition in the Collection Imperiale, my experience with the perfume is not such.

Eleonore bottles and boxes

The concept of this scent is focused on fruits, cakes and resins, providing a contrast of these elements. The story behind it is the following: Napoleon III escapes from the riots in 1840 and a quick encounter with a young woman makes him remember her scent while he runs. He cannot escape the romantic feelings as he recalls her aroma. She is still waiting for a next encounter in the “patisserie” where she works. The intriguing story of Éléonore and Louis Bonaparte inspired this fragrance of love and desire...the urgency to escape but the desire to stay.

Biscuits with vanilla

What I smell in Éléonore is surely sweet as love. But not sweet as in Angel or La Vie Est Belle. This is a refined mature sweet scent. A different gourmand that is not sugared to the point of creating a cavity. This is a soft cushion of vanilla powder over resins and ambers and in fact it is not completely different from another ambery fragrance from the same house by the name of Laetitia.

Éléonore, created by Maurizio Cerizza, is an extremely comfortable sensation of oozing gold syrup and clouds of vanilla dust over woods. So, we feel the texture of a resin and of powder and to this we add the creaminess of sandalwood. What we get is a fluffy, feathered, gentle pillow of a sweetness that is tender and subtle. To envelop all of this there is this heliotrope effect, this oily almond undertone evoking marzipan. And jasmine makes an appearance as the airy uplifting element that you can't grasp because it's there through the introduction of its synthetic incarnation of the Hedione molecule which gives a subtle, fresh and airy floral touch.

olfactive pyramid

What I find charming in Éléonore is its unpretentious mood. It is not a complex fragrance and it des not change much throughout its life span (which on my skin is around 4 hours). But it delivers such warmth and it is so caressing that it is bliss on a hard day. Nothing here is sharp or annoying like many vanilla-centered perfumes can sometimes be. Éléonore has a calming, soothing effect. It may not be groundbreaking, but do we need revolutions everyday?

Miguel Matos is a Portuguese journalist obsessed with perfume. Miguel likes to see himself as a fragrance curator, investigating perfume as contemporary art. He directs his own cultural magazine, Umbigo, and writes texts for museums and galleries. He is a vintage perfume collector and organizes regular talks called Vintage Perfume Sniffing and Olfatto L'Amore. Honorable member of the International Perfume Bottle Association. He did workshops for brands such as Versace, Grès, Roger & Gallet and Florescent. He also writes on beauty and grooming for Beautyalmanac.com. He is a Fragrantica writer, translator and editor of Fragrantica.com.br.



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agentj
agentj

A wonderful description of this vanilla bliss! This one has gone to my want list. I love it when there is a fun and romantic back story to go along with the fragrance. That way, when someone comments on how amazing you smell, you have a story to pass along. So many people take items such as perfume at face value, or scent value in this case, I suppose. For me, half of the enjoyment lies in knowing more about the fragrance, who made it, and how they were inspired. Thank you for sharing this enchanting tale.❤❤❤

Jan
07
2017
Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

No, Miguel, we don't need revolutions every day, neither did Bonaparte. Lol, he couldn't keep his hands off a lady even in crisis!
Eleonore sounds like a scent I would love (hello wish list..). Just a look at the beautiful notes, not to mention your (always) amazing description and I want this badly. This is exactly my vanilla, comforting, grown up and delicious. With, or without a Louis.

Jan
06
2017
perfumecritic
perfumecritic

This sounds wonderful, Miguel. Is it anything like Piver's Heliotrope Blanc or Etro's Heliotrope?

Jan
06
2017
smellagent
smellagent

Great article Miguel about a great perfume company. I love a lot of the perfumes that they have but don't have any FB's at the moment. Actually I am a little angry at them because they dc'd one of my all time faves called Next Age Plaisir I think is how it was spelled. But I did sample a couple recently that I would not mind owning. I like the simple elegance and how wearable they are from start to finish. I want to retry Elenore and a few others.

Jan
06
2017

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