Multifaced Vetiver

05/07/08 18:21:33

Vetiver is a very common compound to be found in perfume compositions. Its opulent scent is composed of grassy, woody, sweet, balmy and earthy notes; it is very airy and intensive, while the fragrance of perfume oil becomes richer and richer. Vetiver is a perennial plant, a tall grass deriving from India. Apart from India, vetiver is produced in Indonesia, Haiti and on the Reunion Islands. Vetiver oil is obtained from its long and outspread root and this is the reason why this plant saves the fertile soil of India.

The oil is of dark gold, amber, brown colour, with its consistency as thick as syrup. The oil fragrance defers depending on the region where vetiver is grown. The oils from Haiti and the Reunion Islands are sweeter and more floral, whereas the one from Java possesses a smoky nuance. One of the best oils is the oil of wild vetiver (called Khus), which is grown on the north of India, in the provinces: Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Harayana and Madhya Pradesh.

Wild vetiver oil is much more expensive than the cultivated one and is very difficult to find on commercial market outside India, since it is highly popular inside the country, which is due to its therapeutic features. Vetiver oil is used in folk medicine as a sedative, against headache and stress.

The natural fragrance of vetiver oil, according to Christopher McMahon's article dedicated to wild vetiver, is very intensive and distinguishing in perfume compositions. It spreads out a woody, naturally earthy, green, spicy nuance, a note of woods and corresponds perfectly with the scents of sandalwood, patchouli, violet, green notes and spices.

Vetiver scent attracts perfumeurs and takes the central position in compositions inspired by vetiver. Thanks to such perfumes many of us have had an opportunity to experience the scent of natural oil and recognize the vetiver scent.

A mild, delicate, peaceful, very green and velvety vetiver can be found in the composition of the perfume Eau de Vetiver by Givenchy. It was created in 1959, as Hubert Givenchy's personal fragrance. The production was stopped, but this perfume was released again in the limited collection Les Parfums Mythiques in 2007, which delighted all its fans.

Guerlain launched its famous Vetiver in 1961, preceded by the feminine version Vetiver Pour Elle (which has been reedited in the collection Les Parisiennes). The fragrance for men has been much more popular and stayed one of the best classic male perfumes, since vetiver is usually associated with male perfumes' compositions. The creator of this fragrance is Jacques-Paul Guerlain.

Vetiver by Guerlain is very green, elegant and contains a fresh grassy and a mild citrusy note in the opening. It is woody and slightly spicy. This is a peaceful fragrance, especially in comparison with modern, dynamic compositions, but its trail stays recognizable. Once you get to know it, you always want to feel its scent again, and this is where its power of an experienced seducer lies. Vetiver had a few limited editions, the latest being its more modern and aggressive version Vetiver Extreme. The grassy nuances were replaced by spices here.

L'Occitane's line of fragrances for men includes its classic Eau d'Vetyver. Vetiver of this composition is accompanied by a spicy nutmeg note and aromatic lavender, and this is what makes it truly fresh.

One of the most beautiful vetiver-based fragrances (containing 25% of vetiver) is Vetiver Extraordinare from Frederic Malle's collection and it was created by Dominique Ropion. The author accentuated the spicy and woody nuance on vetiver, unlike its grassy nuance in Vetiver Extraordinares's composition. The perfume literally blends with your skin, there are no sharp transitions. It is very masculine and seductive for its variability of warmth, woody and spicy notes.

Vetiver experiences a come-back in modern perfumes; A harmonic mixture of violet leaves, vetiver and cedar can be found in the perfume He Wood by the twin designers Dean and Dan Caten of DSQUARED², which was recently released. The fragrance is aquatically fresh, woody-green, very light and comfortable.