A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

New Fragrances
Fragrance Reviews
Interviews

Columns
Niche Perfumery
Raw Materials
Industry News
Perfumery & Arts
Vintages
Books & Publications
Fragrantica
Fragrant Horoscope
Home Scents
Natural Perfumes
Search articles:

Fragrantica news via email:

Delivered by Google FeedBurner

Interviews
My Spring with Artisan Perfumers, Part I

My Spring with Artisan Perfumers, Part I

05/23/09 19:29:31

By: Cristiane Gonçalves

Spring is time to bloom a new smile to the life. Smiles may be flowers which wish to be full of beauty and happiness, energizing all around with their colors and radiance, sharing with the nature a lovely relationship of opening  their smells to make people breath these new vigorous scents and be delighted by the power of a fragrant garden, the power of a flowery life.



I‘m in the Autumn right now in Brazil, but I could find flowers in my garden. These flowers are talented perfumers who are visiting us in this article. Some of them are 100% natural perfumers using only botanicals, others work with a mix between syntheticals and botanicals, however that is not the point here; the matter is to introduce you these natural and/or artisan perfumers, true flowers that have an intimate relationship with the nature and with the flowers which are like a treasure in their works, a valuable material to creativeness and inspiration. Some of them are also gardening, others collecting flowers, others have gorgeous gardens...
 

                                                         Flowers of my Garden
 

In my Spring season, Anya is the Jasmine of my garden.
Anya McCoy is owner and natural perfumer of Anya’s Garden Perfumes (USA). She is also head of the Natural Perfumers Guide, a world association in natural perfumery. Her fragrances are composed by 100% natural essences. Anya also teaches natural perfumery. To know her work and services, visit Anya.

Mandy is the Lily of my garden.
Mandy Aftel is owner and natural perfumer of Aftelier Perfumes (USA). She is also a renowned writer, the author of Essence & Alchemy, and a pioneer name in the botanical perfumery. Her fragrances are composed of 100% natural essences. Mandy also conductes natural perfumery classes and is speaker in events. To know her work and services, visit Mandy

Ayala is the Orange blossom of my garden.
Ayala Moriel is owner and natural perfumer of Ayala Moriel Parfums (Canada). She is also a perfumery teacher in her Natural Perfumery Course. Her fragrances are composed of 100% natural essences.To know her work and services, visit Ayala.

Rohanna is the Lilac of my garden.
Rohanna Goodwin Smith is owner and Natural Perfumer of Ascent Natural Perfumes (Canada).  She offers customized consultant about fragrances and lead her Perfume Salons which are fragrance journeys divided by themes and attended by a passionate fragrance audience. Her perfumes are 100% natural. To know her work and services, visit Rohanna.

Emma is Hibiscus of my garden.
Emma Leah is co-creator and natural perfumer of  Fleurage Salon de Parfumerie (Australia).  Her fragrances are composed of 100% botanical extracts.To know her work and services, visit Emma.
 

                              As a perfumer, what is scented Spring for you?

Anya McCoy: April in Miami is jasmine heaven! That signals Spring to me after the relatively scentless winter season. Yes, we have flowers in Winter, but the arrival of really warm days in Spring brings the many varieties of jasmine at my home, Casa Jasmin, to life. The fragipani also starts to bloom now, and the Clerodendron by the front door, so I have a garden perfume of jasmine, fragipani and a clove carnation scent.

Mandy Aftel: Scented Spring to me is the flowers that I grow in my garden  -  I have many kinds of roses, jasmine and iris, and when they’re all blooming the air is full of lush spring fragrances. Whenever I smell those fragrances in another environment, I am instantly taken back to spring in my backyard.

Ayala Moriel: Yellow wild flowers of the Mediterranean (i.e.: broom, mimosa, wild yellow chrysanthemum) and orange blossoms blooming all together at once. This explosion of pollen and scents can be overwhelming, especially in the heat of the Mediterranean spring sun.

Rohanna Goodwin Smith: The green, moist air of an April shower; richly fertilized earth as I ready it for the spring planting of my vegetables; the soft  sweet scent of freshly cut tulips and the heady richness of a potted narcissus near my desk.

Emma Leah: Spring for me, as a scent  inspiration, is an overall sense of  the metallic saltiness of wet rich earth, a juicy sweet green of new shoots and leaves, a soft powdery note on the air mixed with the ozonic crispness left from winter and the promise of fruits and blossoms. I don’t like to associate just one set of flowers or notes with a season. My mind relates better to a larger olfactory visual of any time of year so I can gather a more diverse set of ideas.


                             What is the perfume that best represents Spring?
 

Anya McCoy: For me, my Kaffir perfume. The zingy aldehyde of the lemon-lime scent of kaffir weaves with the jasmines in the heart. Many who wear Kaffir say the same - it is Spring and sunny days to them. A customer in Greece said it immediately brightened gloomy wintertime weather for her.

Mandy Aftel: In my line of perfumes, the one that is most spring like is my new perfume Lumiere. I created it specifically because I wanted to include a sheer floral that embodied the Spring, which is unlike anything I had made before. It’s a fragrance Vogue.com called addictive, and it features some truly gorgeous rare florals, like Tasmanian Boronia and blue lotus. It’s Spring, but in an exotic way.

Ayala Moriel: Diorissimo. It was one of my very first perfumes and I wore it for my wedding day, which was in the spring as well.

Rohanna Goodwin Smith: I don't have any particular favourite but one with a fresh, uplifting, light  floral with citrus and herbal notes plus an earthy base note of perhaps vetiver or oak moss.

Emma Leah: If you mean one of my perfumes I would say Equinox because of its fresh grassy sweet floral scent that typifies the scents that surround us. But if instead you mean what scent typifies the emergence of Spring I would have to pick out the bulb flowers that emerge from the cold hard ground like jonquils, freesias and hyacinths (in the south.) 

                                                    What is your favorite flower?
 

Anya McCoy: Well, you can guess by now - it's jasmine. Nothing defines a garden like a jasmine, with rose a close second. Jasmines have, through antiquity until now, and I'm sure for the future, defined the narcotic power of a tiny flower to take over our body and mind. It's pristine white beauty, shiny with dewdrops, or viewed by moonlight, can pull the eye towards it, unfussy in appearance, but somehow transmitting its power of its soul, the beautiful fragrance.

Mandy Aftel: My favorite flower is the oriental lily because of its gorgeous aroma. It is clean and floral and lightly spiced. When there aren’t flowers in my backyard, I always like to have cut lilies in the house to bring in fresh and natural fragrance.

Ayala Moriel: I have many favourite flowers, but the single flower that represents spring for me in the most powerful way is orange blossom. I grew up with that smell coming back every spring and it always makes me feel happy.

Rohanna Goodwin Smith: It's difficult to choose but certainly one of  my favourites is the orange blossom which gives us two gorgeous fragrances-the  deep, delicious, sensual  and sophisticated  orange flower absolute and  the radiant, ethereal, uplifting citrus notes of neroli essential oil. Orange blossom probably ties with jasmine which sends me over the moon!

Emma Leah: I always find this question difficult as a perfumer because I adore so many flowers for their scent but the flowers I get the most joy from personally are not fragrant. Instead I appreciate them for their spectacular visual display. My favorites are tulips, hibiscus and bougainvillea. They look as if they should smell because they are so luscious and that is inspirational in its self. Their beauty is such that you can imagine a scent for them. Tulips would be a rich but sparkling clear floral, Hibiscus makes me think of oriental notes of spicy sweet and smoky florals, and I would always imagine Bougainvillea as bursting with ginger and fruity berry notes over a woody base.


                                
                                 What fragrance(s) do you wear during Spring?


Anya McCoy:
I rarely wear perfumes since I work with the raw aromatics all the time - I save them for a special occasion. Spring is a very hot time here, often very humid, so at most, I would spray boronia or jasmine or another light floral, nothing heavy or very strong.

Mandy Aftel:
I always wear the last perfume I created, so this Spring I’ll be wearing Lumiere. It happens to be a very appropriate Spring-inspired fragrance that I can’t get enough of at the moment. 

Ayala Moriel: Diorissimo in early spring when it's still cold (I particularly prefer the Extrait), Zohar when I'm visiting Israel, and Le Parfum de Therese when it gets warmer.

Rohanna Goodwin Smith: As a botanicall perfumer I am  enchanted with all of my raw materials and I don't tend to have seasonal favourites.

Emma Leah: Spring is about waking up and putting your face to the sun and sky so I choose uplifting and energetic scents.



                                 Suggest a fragrance for our readers and your fans.


Anya McCoy: I would advise Fragrantica readers to select, first of all, a fragrance that blends well with their skin chemistry. Expand your fragrance wardrobe, if you haven't already, to wear a lighter scent in the Spring. Pretend you are in a garden of flowers and choose accordingly. Most of all, love and live with your fragrance and your joy will radiate along with the perfume. 

Mandy Aftel:
For those who like me love the smell of lilies, I would suggest my Orchid fragrance. It has fresh and spicy notes layered with orange flower absolute. It’s a floral with a bit of an unexpected edge. Orchid works especially well in the Spring, but is also lovely throughout the year. It’s available only as a solid perfume, in either a sterling silver compact, or an antique watch case.

Both are portable and ideal for carrying in a purse. Reapplying perfume throughout the day can become a wonderful sort of ritual to calm body and mind.

Ayala Moriel: Zohar, my orange blossom soliflore with three types of orange flower, blood orange, yuzu and amber, which is quite a realistic portrayal of orange groves in full bloom while the overripe fruit from the winter is still hanging on the branches. Now that I'm visiting Grasse in the south of France I'm mostly wearing my Les Nuages de Joie Jaune which is a very light, sheer mimosa soliflore with a hint of vanilla.

Rohanna Goodwin Smith: If I may suggest one of my own creations, I have a special fondness for my solid perfume called Blossom. Zesty wild sweet orange bids its greeting before introducing the beautiful and sophisticated orange blossom and jasmine grandiflorum. Supported with rich, mossy undertones.

Emma Leah: From my range for spring I would suggest - Mint Julep, Imp, Equinox, Sylph or Nymph, along with White Flowers and Poeticus. All of our amazing range will be available for purchase from our website very soon.


Please read Part II of the interview with Artisan Perfumers
See also Interview with Ayala Moriel
 

 Images: kpjas, bortescristian, BaylorBear78, travlinman43, Mrs Gemstone, Carquinyol, jurvetson


Author: Cristiane Gonçalves (crisgonc)
Fragrantica Member

Cristiane Gonçalves (aka Cris Rosa Negra) is fragrance writer from Brazil and has a multilinguistic background and education. She is  self-taught in perfumery issues, owner, editor and writer of her two international blogs, Perfume da Rosa Negra (the pioneer Brazilian Perfume Blog) and El Perfume al Aire (in Spanish).

Cris's writings are highlights at Perfumecritic.com as a active contributor writer. Cris is also a Senior  Human Resources professional experienced in renowned companies and is involved in the development of the attars culture  as a  oriental fragrance expert/consultant.


 



<<< Next Article   |    Previous Article >>>

 Subscribe to Fragrantica.com - Online Perfumes Magazine News Feed




Article comments:

add comment

 
Dear all,
Hi! Thanks for all your comments, very kind from you. As NebraskalovesS said to us, I really wanted to put more emphasis on these perfumers. I truly believe they are good example as perfumers as alchemy professionals to, very attached to the nature.
The best,
06/06/09 12:46:42
 
Very good !
Muito bom, Cris !
05/26/09 10:01:47
 
Such a nice and interesting article/interviews... I get curious about the perfumes from all of them. :)
05/26/09 06:11:25
Very nice, Cris! :-) It's great to see some emphasis on natural perfumery here on Fragrantica. I look forward to Part II.
05/24/09 07:04:36
Thank you for the mini-interviews of these artisan perfumers. I have been a fan of Anya McCoy's blog for some time now. I like her philosophy on how to choose the right perfume for you. Chemistry is everything!
05/24/09 00:00:18

Only registered users can post article comments. Please, join the Fragrantica club CLICK HERE!


More articles from category Interviews

Robert Boehm, founder of CnR Create Star Sign perfumes - It´s Me!
Mandy Aftel about Solid Perfume
Perfumers wish you Happy Holidays!
Interview with Kai and Kalani Hughes from Maoli
An Exclusive Interview with Andy Tauer: “This Is Not An Interview” (With Apologies To Magritte)
Interview With Celine Martin, the Founder of SAHLiNi
Thorsten Biehl, Biehl. Parfumkunstwerke
The House of Caron: Love, War and Perfume
Pierre Guillaume, founder & perfumer of Parfumerie Generale
Interview with Linda Pilkington, perfumer and founder of Ormonde Jayne


Register

Perfume Reviews

Article Comments