Mysterious Patchouli in Perfumery

02/08/08 15:49:10

Patchouli (Pogostemon patchouli) is a shrubby plant reaching up to 1metre of height, blooming in purple flowers. It is spread in tropical Asia, China, India and South America. In perfume industry it is used as a component for many fragrances. Patchouli oil is produced from fragrant patchouli leaves which are usually harvested several times per year. The distillation is mainly utilized for extraction of oil from dried leaves, but the high quality oil is produced from fresh leaves and therefore the distillery should be placed in the vicinity of patchouli plantation.

The scent of patchouli is woodsy, green with nuances of camphor and moss. It is so heavy and intense with strong earthy nuance what makes it dark and mysterious. Its interesting structure starts with sweet grassy notes, rich winy heart and ends with balsamic woodsy drydown. The oil with the time changes its olfactory characteristics: fine and opulent fruity note tames the dry spicy note and the whole composition becomes finer and thin.

Europeans got acquainted with the scent of patchouli in the 19th century through mass export of Indian fabrics which were scented with patchouli leaves. The new, oriental and unusual scent, the trademark of India, became modern in France at that time.

Patchouli scent became trendy again in 1960’s. Its recognizable and intense scent did well in camouflaging the smell of marijuana in tobacco shops.

Dominant and heavy patchouli scent has found its place in fine perfumery. Patchouli is one of the main components of popular sharp chypre fragrances such as Miss Dior, Aromatics Elixir Clinique, Kouros Yves Saint Laurent, etc. Besides the chypre olfactory group fragrances, patchouli can be found in oriental fragrances as it matches other oils well. Patchouli can be found in Jicky by Guerlain, Gentleman by Givenchy, Angel by Thierry Mugler, L’Artisan Patchouli, Etro Patchouli, Tabac Blond by Caron, Miss Dior Cherie Christian Dior, Dioressence Christian Dior, Rive Gauche Pour Homme Yves Saint Laurent, Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque, Fendi.

Author: jeca (jeca)
Fragrantica Member