Natori by Natori

Josie Natori’s 2nd fragrance for her eponymously named fashion and accessories house is a dry, spicy, floral oriental housed in a stunning purple flacon.

The only thing I knew about Natori was that its lingerie is famous and at one time Avon had developed a fragrance for the line. Therefore, having very few preconceived notions, I first was impressed by the packaging and bottle design. In fact, I was at Saks the other day when an objet d’art caught my eye – something Japanese in theme and completely unique. Lo and behold, as I got closer it became clear – it was the new Natori fragrance bottle! Not that the bottle is the key success here, but many of us are indeed intrigued by packaging, right?

After first dab (thanks for the sample, Parlux), I was quite surprised by the fragrance. Having had no expectations, and only knowing Parlux for its Jessica Simpson and Paris Hilton fragrances (both lines I generally steer clear of despite their surprisingly popular track records) I can state that this Florida-based perfume manufacturer completely hit it out of the ball park. Natori is a complete success in my opinion. In fact, Natori feels like it could easily have been a much more expensive niche creation, a Lutens, L’Artisan, Killian, or Bond.
The key to Natori is its avant garde, almost retro style. I think I said it best when I compared it to the lovechild of Poison and Cashmere Mist. Yes, its’ floral. Yes, it’s slightly musky. Yes, there’s likely prunol (often used for its plum-like effect). But I can’t honestly say that Natori smells “just like” anything else I’ve worn.

 

So about the comparison: When I first tried Cashmere Mist back in the 90’s, I wasn’t enamored at all. Something was harsh, sharp, slightly astringent. Now, though, I can’t get enough. Likewise, Poison was always too big, too much, too sweet, and again, I now love it. Perhaps this is the first reason why I enjoy Natori so much.

Sharpness: Did I mention that Natori is sharp and almost masculine in its basenotes? I’m not sure what exactly contributes to this facet - perhaps the ylang and patchouli? – but I’ve definitely come across it before and though intriguing, it hasn’t been pretty. I love Roudnitska’s magical Shiloh for Hors La Monde, but the sharpness of the overall composition often prevents me from wearing it. I can say the same thing about the sadly discontinued Ines de la Fressange scent. There’s just something there that itches my nose.

Oddly, I find this same effect in Natori, but instead of being dismayed and dismissing the scent, this time I find it oddly compelling. Is this the development of my nose? Are my tastes changing? Should I go back to Shiloh and Fressange and see if they now work for me?
The overall feel of Natori for me is neither floral, nor musky, although, like Cashmere Mist, these aspects are a large reason why the fragrance works. On my skin, the initial (first 60 minutes) overall feel is actually, drumroll please, cinnamon and patchouli! From the list of notes, I can’t work out why the fragrance does this, but I’m thrilled because there’s really nothing currently in my wardrobe that achieves this effect. Even now as I hold my hand to my nose 3 hours after application, I just can’t find it “floral”, or particularly “ambery”. I will admit, however, that the drydown does indeed remind me of Cashmere Mist, much more so than the hints of CM at the beginning.

Versatility: I’ve worn Natori in the Florida heat and in the Pennsylvania snow and just keep coming back to the intriguing purple bottle and the even more intriguing sharpness. In short, if you’re looking for a unique fragrance with a little spice, good longevity, and a stunning bottle, give Natori a try. 

Pros: Completely unlike the majority of fruity floral designer scents of recent years, this is perfect for those who love their fragrances to stray from the path leading to ordinary and into the enchanted forest; again, that bottle is quite eye-catching; could easily be a unisex fragrance; has an intriguing spice note throughout.
 

Cons: May strike some as too masculine, too spicy, or too sharp.

Notes: “A sparkling floral oriental, the Natori fragrance opens with an effervescent bouquet of fresh rose petals enriched by deep, dark plum notes. The heart is an exotic and alluring hybrid of ylang ylang, purple peony and night blooming jasmine. Slipping languidly over pulse points, black patchouli, amber and a hint of satin musk complete this mysterious and tantalizing fragrance.” Natori.com

images: DonFrance photos, only alice, cle0patra, lepiaf.geo,