New Fragrances New Caron: My Ylang, Piu Bellodgia and Nocturnes

New Caron: My Ylang, Piu Bellodgia and Nocturnes

03/20/13 14:44:37 (6 comments)

by: Serguey Borisov



If you tried to look at Caron from the standpoint of a competitor-perfumer, or a perfume critic's point of view, you could not resist bitter remarks. One century after the golden age of Ernest Daltroff's and Felicia Vanpuy's Caron, the perfume house can't catch up with the front line of perfume fashion. They are scarcely finishing the re-branding of their classics—and here they have earned their share of hatred from vintage lovers—how could we speak about anything revolutionary from Caron now? Nobody there is trying to introduce new captivating molecules or bases, so nobody expects novelties at the level of Tabac Blond, Nuit de Noel or Narcisse Noir. We expect from the famous old house, as from distant relatives, merely a postcard, a sign of existence just to be kept aware, "we are still alive."

In this unhurried perfume house, nobody gets that the luxury of old gold and fair families are left in the past. Royalty are scarce and the competition for their attention among perfumers is so high that you must be quick and effective in sweet talk and flattering gestures. It's obvious that even if we counted all the princes, princesses, dukes, duchesses and sheikhs, the audience wouldn't be as massive as one perfume house would love to have. A part of the business must target more mass clientelle.

In the new launches we could see the first signs of Caron's revival as a modern perfume brand. Here they are:  My Ylang, Più Bellodgia and Nocturnes. They were announced in February 2013. As we can see, the previous luxurious dotted flacons with golden stoppers have been left in the past. In the 21st century Caron will have a new niche-like look. The perfumes are now housed in smooth rectangular flacons with white square caps on magnets, resembling niche bottles or the exclusives by Dior or Chanel.

MY YLANG

Technically, we can say "new" regarding only one of the trio, My Ylang. This is breathtakingly beautiful ylang with jasmine and lily-of-the-valley, but it's not a flower—it's a queen of flowers. All in white, shimmering, smooth and festive, it projects delicious anticipation. Sweet flowers are all-time favorites, and when combined with sweet berries the audience range expands to young girls. This perfume has a wonderful glaring start, a kind, caressing powder heart and a warm subtle trail that could be left only by a true Queen of Elves. She hasn't obtained the Ring, but she has nothing to be ashamed of. Not everyone is destined to win foreign lands, and in her own realm she is the ruler and seducer.


Top notes: white flowers, jamsine, ylang, lily-of-the-valley, rose;
Heart notes: cassis buds, mandarin;
Base notes: vanilla.
 


NOCTURNES

The two other perfumes are versions or flankers of original aromas from the 20th century. For Nocturnes Caron we need to be precise with the year, as with a good wine, for the perfume from 2013 differs from the one with the same name created in 1981 by Gerard Lefort, thanks to Richard Fraysse and IFRA efforts.

Of course you can decry the new aldehydic-powdery bouquet of Nocturnes 2013 comparing it to the original, BUT… there is enough room for favorable reviews, too. Who else except Caron would tell our young generations what the perfumes of their moms were? Nocturnes de Caron recalled so many dear olfactive shadows—several classic Chanels and Estee Lauders—and gave rise to such strong emotions, it would be a pity to miss it.

It's ok if it the new Nocturnes has a touch of sugar candy. Look at Chanel №5 Eau Premiere—it's also a reflection of the classic, with age allowance. It could still lecture young girls about the classic union of ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose and rose, about soapy aldehydes and especially about the modern replacement of woody notes of sandal and vetiver to clean white musks and vanillin!


Top notes: orange, rose, neroli;
Heart notes: jasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang;
Base notes: sandal, vetiver, musk.
 


PIÙ BELLODGIA

Più Bellodgia is a new version of Bellodgia which was created by Ernest Daltroff in 1927. This fresh, modern and romantic juice could be considered a cousin of Chanel №5 Eau Premiere, minus the popularity of the last. This is not due to carnation's and aldehydes' "old-fashioned" reputation—few of us will get carnation at the first sniff without reading the notes. It is simply that Chanel invests fortunes in its advertising compared to Caron.

The rose bushes of Più Bellodgia are covered with the cool powder of snow. They have a distinct spicy hue—it's carnation. The composition is clean and dry, hygienic, and its theatrical powderiness recalls a costume Princess ball in Venice. It may deter young grils demanding of high style, but may also attract those who prefer classic blazers, timeless t-shirts and worn-out jeans. 


Top notes: carnation, rose, jasmine and lily-of-the-valley;
Heart notes: carnation and cinnamon;
Base notes: white cedar, sandal and musk.
 

 

Serguey Borisov

Serguey Borisov has been known in the Internet world of perfume under the nickname moon_fish for more than 10 years. Now he writes about perfumes for GQ.ru and Vogue.ru, and contributes on the subject for glossy magazines.

 

 

 

 



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distortech
distortech

All of them are fantastic, period. Vive Caron!!!!

Mar
23
2013
Vie Cafe
Vie Cafe

I was waiting for a SA at Holt Renfrew last month and I saw these bottles on a special display. I gave them a quick "sniff" and although there is no way I can do a proper review of any of them at the moment, I can say that the scents were quite beautiful and memorable, especially standing there amongst other new "more mainstream" releases of the month. I will go back and test them properly!

What I really want to say is, please do not dismiss these perfumes right away. they are worth a try!

Mar
22
2013
kl99
kl99

I find the begin of this article quite rude.

I prefer the slow-food mentality of Caron to the monster fast-food that Guerlain has became.

Is not easy to preserve dignity and tradition into this market of throwaway.

Mozart don't produces successes anymore because he is dead, and nobody dares to blame him to have not built any hit recently.

Materials and laws about oils and substances constantly change, and is not easy to rebuilt a perfume as it was, and even tastes of people are "capriceable". That's complicated.

The recent success of many houses are drove by an huge amount of money spent in advertisement with famous actor to persuade stupid people to be sexy as those famous faces they see in advertisement.

Caron still produce by ispiration, and Parfum Sacre and Aimez-moi had open the way to many other fragrance that, following that example and after making it more eatable, have built their own businness.

Now My Ylang explore a flower not in fashion by now, everybody follows, roses, jasmins and magnolias, and is not difficult to find that a lot of houses will follow this yellow flower after Caron.

To conclude I just say: In Caron we Trust.

Mar
22
2013
Freyja
Freyja

I loved Nocturnes, but when I purchased it recently,(a few years back) it was awful.It was nothing like it was when it first came out. The recent version of it that I bought smelled like a soap with hardly any fragrance to it. Just bad. I don't understand how Caron would would ever change the beautiful Nocturnes to this bad watered down dollar store soap smell .

Mar
20
2013
puddley
puddley

Caron has received a lot of bad press regarding reformulation but some of their modern creations are extraordinary.
The unique sparkly quirkiness of Eau de Reglisse is a masterpiece and Les Eaux de Caron Fraiche has surely got to rank amongst the finest citrus colognes on the market.
Although I love the Sanchez/Turin wit, I don't think they are on the mark with their reviews of Caron feminines and it's put true fume lovers off somewhat, Poor old Caron..
That said, I'd love to try these new creations.

Mar
20
2013
lovingthealien
lovingthealien

The ylang perfume sounds interesting enough, as candy ylang is something I can imagine going over very well in classic Caron style. Nocturnes may be an improvement over the original, which is a dreadful bore. The Bellodgia flanker, on the other hand, excites me. I love bellodgia and I would love to smell a new retro-version!

Mar
20
2013

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