Niche Perfumery

New Collection : Arquiste Parfumeur

02/02/12 16:52:54

By: Elena Knezhevich, Jodi Battershell, Ida Meister

Carlos Huber [aka Carlos the Chevalier ;-) ] is an architect, an historical preservationist, AND a visionary. His recent collaboration was with fellow Mexico City-born perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux and the Brittany-born Yann Vasnier. These three have recreated scent as time travel. In the case of the Arquiste collection, it is a highly specific moment in history translated into olfactory revelation.

Theirs is a truly felicitous fellowship. Yann and Rodrigo are vastly different in temperament, yet good friends who can play upon each others’ strengths, while creating perfectly wonderful works separately as well. At the present time, these journeys run the gamut from medieval Calabria to a bitingly wintry, ill-fated St. Petersburg afternoon in 1837.

We met up with Carlos at this week’s Elements Showcase. He has plans for the next scentventure, but it is under wraps for now…

Each fragrance is completely unique. They have different characters and tonalities all their own. I can honestly say that I have enjoyed them all [not often the case in any given collection, no?].

Here are some of my favorites (Ida's impressions)…

Flor y Canto [Rodrigo solo]:

A devastatingly lush white floral that produces a state of spiritual and carnal ecstasy.

Named after both a Spanish Hymnal and a festival, Flor y Canto transports us to Tenochtitlan, Mexico in the searing heat of August 1400. Temple altars are deluged with native tuberose, magnolia, plumeria, and the very sacred marigold—as copal incense billows forth and sacramental cinders fly.

We are overwhelmed with desires—both sacred and profane.

Infanta en flor [Yann]:

Floral musky amber, tender and ethereal.

We share the pre-nuptial nervousness of inquisitive and anxious young convent-bred Infanta Maria Teresa in June of 1660. She awaits Louis XIV’s arrival at their pre-destined rendezvous in the Pays Basque, at the Isle of Pheasants… She is a well brought-up young girl, and her only ornaments [besides her considerable beauty] are the genteel orange flower water becoming to a young bride, and her fan. As she peeks behind it for a mere glimpse of her future husband, the fragrance of softest peau d’espagne brushes against her rose-petal cheek. The scented glove is soft as a newborn upon her fair hand, even in this swelter. The winds carry the resinous willfulness of cistus labdanum and immortelle, which bloom where they please in this climate. What fate awaits these two? Infanta en flor is Maria Teresa’s wistful sigh.

Anima Dulcis [Rodrigo and Yann]:

The darkly sensual convent secret made public at long last.

We find ourselves at the Royal Convent of Jesus Maria in Mexico City in November 1695, where the nuns are already engaged in a flurry of clandestine activity. An excess of scorching chilies, heady cinnamon and purest, deepest cocoa are marrying the fruit of the indigenous vanilla orchid as the creation of a divine and dangerous elixir unfolds.

One day, the world will uncover their well-kept secret, with fondest addiction.

ALL NEWS FROM ELEMENTS:

Photo and Video from Elements by Fragrantica

Fragrantica team reports from Elements

Ida Meister
chayaruchama

Elena Knezhevich
jeca

Jodi Battershell
NebraskaLovesScent

civava

Anima Dulcis I must try! The others too, but that one is me ;-).

Feb
04
2012

KatyK

They sound fabulous - as an expelled convent girl I always find fragrances with incense strangely appealing!

Feb
03
2012

naheed

Before saying anything about fragrances and flankers, I have to say he is so charming. I like the whole concept of creating fragrances and the flankers are simple yet so classy.

Feb
03
2012

NebraskaLovesScent

Was waiting for someone to notice that. Easy on the eyes and oh so very charming! :-) The scents are lovely, too!

Feb
02
2012

jeca

Yes ;o) He is a very handsome man and very photogenic as you see. I am Russian, that is why I tried Alexandr first just to compare what I know and feel about that time of my history to the scent. And I must admit, I like it. It's modest enough (and it's very true for the time, I agree), fresh and the scent of violet leaves is great in it.

Feb
02
2012

cryptic