Niche Perfumery

New Perfume by Frederic Malle - Mughetonne

02/07/12 19:48:42

By: Elena Vosnaki

Editions de Parfums, founded in 2000 by Frederic Malle is always keeping us on our toes, having been the first brand to recognize "authorship" of fragrances by perfumers. Their new super secretive launch according to info I leaned is concerning a popular spring fragrance, lily of the valley/muguet and the code name is Mughetonne.

Lily of the valley of course has virginal aspects tied to its Madonna iconography (the tiny blossoms springing from the foot of the cross, born from the tears of the Virgin Mary). The iconic lily of the valley perfume, Diorissimo by Christian Dior, composed by one of the true greats, Edmond Roudnitska, was conceived in 1956 and has been hailed by even the most difficult critics as the best muguet perfume in history. Virginal yes, sweet and supremely floral, but with an undercurrent of civet (especially in vintage extrait de parfum) that gives just the right sensuality and feminine appeal to it.

Nothing was haphazard, from its house symbolism (Christian Dior used the tiny blossom as a good luck charm tucked inside his couture gowns whenever showing a new collection) to Roudnitska crawling on all fours, stooping to smell the patch of lilies of the valley he purposefully planted in his garden in Cambrais to study their scent in nature more closely.

No doubt the memories of Malle's grandfather, Serge Heftler-Louiche, founder of the Parfums Dior, were at the back of the mind of Frédéric when he was thinking about his upcoming release. It's interesting to ponder how this technically green floral might fall under the sensuous treatment Malle saves for the white flowers in his line.

Now that Diorissimo is almost ruined due to libertarian (and industry-compliant necessary, we learn) reformulations and the most convincing lily of the valley substitute ingredient, hydroxycitronellal heavily restricted (lily of the valley can't be effectively extracted), the challenge is great and fascinating to watch unfold. The new perfume with lily of the valley will roll into stores in March 2012. Will Mugghetone (the name will change) convince us on the existence of gods?

May we remind you that there is a lily of the valley fragrance in the Home Collection, called 1er Mai (May 1st when lily of the valley posies are traditionally offered in France in celebration of the day) composed by Dominique Ropion.

Author: Elena Vosnaki is a historian & perfume writer from Greece and a Writer to Fragrantica. She is the founder and editor of Perfume Shrine, one of the most respected independent online publications on perfume containing fragrance reviews, industry interviews, essays on raw materials and perfume history, a winner in Fragrantica Blog Awards and a finalist in numerous blog awards contests. Her writing was recognised at the Fifi Awards for Editorial Excellence in 2009 and she has been contributing to publications around the world.