Opulentals by Annette Neuffer: Botanically Beautiful

We tried to keep in touch but like most of us, correspondence became woefully mired in the shuffle—until very recently, when I received a missive from her, informing me that a “gift” was on its way to me from Germany. And what a present!  My package contained a recording of The Annette Neuffer Quintet  and a glorious red and gold coffret sequestering five of her perfumes, each wrapped as if it were a precious bonbon. Simply gorgeous.

It appears that Annette will now be able to offer her line of perfumes—Opulentals—with greater ease and peace of mind, as she can fulfill all the EU manufacturing regulations due to the recent welcome assistance of a chemistscientist friend. I see this as good news indeed, as her work is wonderful.

 

Annette is a “can do” sort of gal. Her motto is, and I quote: “If I don’t have the skills, then I must get them.” So, when the handmade boxes are no longer available, Annette creates her own. When labels aren’t good enough, she creates her own. When it seems outrageous to pay someone for designing and monitoring a website that is less than satisfactory, Annette learns how to do it, and do it well. 

 

She performs her own experimentation with dilutions: “I have diluted fragrances in 1 oz., in 2 oz.… essential oils need dilution, in order to diffuse properly and emit true odor. More isn’t always better; sometimes, it is so thick and doesn’t smell right—at least, that’s my experience. If I use 30-40% essential oils in a perfume, it just doesn’t smell right.” 

 

I am well-acquainted with a conundrum which bedevils independent perfumers in the European community. Standards and controls are much stricter than in the US, “where perfumers can put in whatever they want right now,” Annette notes. She’s right; many friends and colleagues of mine who compose relatively small quantities of handmade artisanal perfumes often create what they like without the scrutiny to which their European counterparts are subjected.

 

Annette lives as she speaks. Cheap-smelling artificial odor is as unpleasant to her sensibility as bad scoring in a film. She uses unscented products at home for both personal and hygienic use: deodorants, cosmetics, household products, etc. She cooks and eats nourishing food and wears sustainable clothing. She prefers to use animalics that are cruelty-free: lots of beeswax absolute, African Stone tincture, ambrette. A very strong sense of ethical responsibility informs her existence; I find this extremely refreshing, and agree heartily. 

 

The corollary is evident in her perfumes created with exquisite natural components, often from Ecomaat Bulgaria [whose products are certified organic]. You know quality when you smell it.

 

Sadly, I can’t share the aromas, but I can try to share the experience.

 

Here are the five fragrances I was grateful to sample. The first three had notes from her website; the last two did not. When Annette and I finally had the opportunity to hear each other’s voices for the first time, I was able to uncover what was in Flor de Café and For Him. This way, you get the honesty of my impressions before I had the note!

 

AVICENNA
 

Head: Saffron Absolute, Black Pepper, Cardamom, Ginger, Cinnamon, Mandarin, Bergamot, Petitgrain, Neroli

Heart: Turkish and Bulgarian Rose Otto* and absolute, Moroccan Rose Absolute*, Tunisian Orange Blossom absolute, Jasminum Grandiflorum Egypt*, Acacia Farnesiana, Indian Tuberose, Broom Absolute, Somalian Frankincense

Base: Beeswax Absolute Superieur, Opoponax, Elemi, Labdanum, Bourbon Vanilla Absolute*, Mysore Sandalwood, Siam Benzoin, Hibiscus Abelmoschus
 

I am a devoted adorer of the rose, and Avicenna is Rose Heaven, named after the legendary physician and scholar from 10th century Ispahan who is credited with the first distillation of rose oil.

 

Heady, intoxicatingly spicy and enveloping, Avicenna is a marvel of rose and resin. It feels ancient and contemporary all at once, a seamless scented form of time travel. I want to bathe in it [I’m already "anointed" at this writing] and wallow in its voluptuous sillage. Its abundance of botanical goodness does the heart good; it is easy to see why the Rose has been venerated, favored by the Blessed Virgin, the prophet Mohammed, praised in the Song of Songs. All that is experienced is true, real, exquisite in its natural state… when you smell this, you wonder why so much artifice is utilized in so many perfumes.

 

[The answer to that question might be cost. It must be formidable to attempt to create such perfumes on a large scale; I can’t imagine what sort of budget would accommodate it.]

 

On to …

NARCISSUS POETICUS
 

Head: Bergamot, Clementine, Tunisian Neroli, Violet Leaf, Galbanum

 

Heart: French Narcissus Absolute, Tunisian Orange Flower Absolute, Indian Tuberose, Egyptian Jasmine*, Bulgarian Rose Otto*

 

Base: Vanilla Absolute*, Mysore Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vegetal Musk
 

 

Narcissus Poeticus may be the Latin classification, but in this specific case we have a lyrical, poetic perfume sans doute.

 

It takes only a cursory glance to see an extravagant hand at work. This composition is a celebration of the indolic, the white blossoms’ animalic nature underlying their floral beauty. It is lush but never cloying, due in part to the delightfully stable-redolent character of narcissus. Admittedly, narcissus is not everyone’s cup of tea, but it is dear and a good harvest is not easy to find [I distinctly remember perfumer Christopher Brosius lamenting awhile back that he could not locate and/or afford enough excellent narcissus to produce more Cradle of Light at the time]. Narcissus Poeticus dries down to a subtle, elegant floral, complex, stunning, and satisfyingly round.

 

CHOCOLAT IRISÉ

 

Head: Indian Clementine, Honey Tangerine, Bergamot, Black Currant Bud

 

Heart: Orris Root co2, Egyptian Jasmine, Turkish Rose Otto, Tunisian Orange Blossom

 

Base: Cocoa Absolute*, Bourbon Vanilla co2*, Vintage Mysore Sandalwood, Patchouly Molecular Distillation
 

 

Once we stop reeling from the juicy, tangy opening of Chocolat Irisé, we’re eager to delve into the earthy pleasures which await us. Double entendre is part of that equation. If Annette means  "Iridescent" then surely we feel that in the shimmery nature of her perfume. But if she intends "iris-like," we’ve experienced that as well: the violet-like, rooty odor of orris CO2 lends its lovely voice in Chocolat Irisé.  Despite the many fragrances I’ve smelled in which iris is paired with cocoa, or with orange blossom and sandalwood [Prada, anyone?], this is unique. We have a vintage Mysore sandalwood to make one weep, such a dusty/sweet patchouli and sumptuous florals. I honestly don’t know how much better it can get; I heartily recommend a good sniff. I’m cradling my arm right now, attempting to inhale and type at the same time [and failing miserably].  

 

FLOR DE CAFÉ
 

All is boozy, opulent florals running riot over my bicep. It’s over-the-top white flowers, coffee blossom, and anchoring resins. As it dries down, I’m smelling  something rich and tobacco-y, I’m amazed at how quickly it shifted shape. I’m ensnared by a seductive little devil, this one—and getting spicier all the time: rooty, marvelous, dark, deep. More coffee-licious.
 

 

Time out: after all these years, Annette and I finally conversed—for hours [I’m still feeling badly about that bill]! It seems that Annette had a difficult time sourcing coffee blossom [it’s outrageously expensive, and only a few kilos are produced each year], and she started making Flor de Café two years ago, but never produced enough to put up on her website.

 

I’m gratified to learn that my nose was "on the job" when I wrote my impressions, before we talked.  ;-)  It seems that the spiciness comes from black pepper, nutmeg, and tamala, a relative of bay laurel. The florals include jasmine, carnation, jasmine sambac, orange blossom, champaca, frangipani, tuberose, ylang ylang and a touch of osmanthus! We’ve got green cognac absolute in here as well.

 

And coffee? It’s present and accounted for, as are myrrh, beeswax, African Stone, ambrette, tobacco, cocoa, sandalwood, Atlas cedarwood, tonka, Peru balsam.

Ooooh, this is SO good.

 

FOR HIM

 

When Annette and I were discussing life, music, perfume and many other subjects of mutual interest, she apologized for the name For Him.
 

 

For Him is actually a portrait of her pianist in the Quintet, a fellow who enjoys a good smoke and drink from time to time. He’s a dark horse; Annette composed it as a present for him to enjoy. Unable to come up with any other name on such short notice, that’s what she put on the label when she sent it to me. I don’t see why she should change it; a simple description will suffice, and it is as much a feminine as it is a masculine, in my opinion. Folks will appreciate the intimacy of it and its provenance.

 

Here were my first thoughts, before I knew how the perfume was really composed:

“With all due respect, I must be a ‘him’ now.  ;-0

 

"Citrus, spice and verdancy, perhaps elemi, bounce right out at you upon first sniff. This is a very woody fragrance, vetiver and tobacco reign alongside patchouli and oakmoss.”

 

Opulentals are as good as the name suggests; as with many botanical perfumes, Annette’s do not scream for attention—they are discreet and insinuate themselves into the good graces of others. Sillage is discreet, and they keep close to the skin. 

 

Feel free to peruse her site, it’s lovely to look at: 

 

A parting word, dear readers:

 

Annette sent me these for my personal pleasure, with no expectations; she didn’t even realize that I write for Fragrantica. It is my delight to share the work of perhaps less widely-known perfumers of great talent with you all; some amazing people are very quiet about themselves. My opinions can’t be bought or bribed. You probably know that by now—but it doesn’t hurt to be certain.  ;-)

 

Stay well, go well, and may you all be healthy and happy in the New Year!

 

*certified organic, organically grown