Parfums DelRae Mythique

Olivier Polge’s masculine classic Dior Homme introduced many men to the possibility of wearing an iris scent. Since then there have been a number of iris scents that have come out that can be easily worn by men. Fragrances like Prada’s Infusion d’Iris or the recent 2009 release from Parfums DelRae, Mythique.

The nose responsible for Mythique was Yann Vasnier and his charge was to bring to life the vision of the founder of Parfums DelRae, DelRae Roth. Ms. Roth described here inspiration for Mythique in her recent interview on Fragrantica with Michelyn Camen:

“Years ago I became infatuated with a painting in the Louvre called Diane Chasseresse. It is of the French Renaissance noblewoman Diane de Poitiers. She led an extraordinary life, becoming the mistress of Henri II. As Henri was married to Catherine de Medici, Diane learned how to navigate the life at court. It really is quite a modern story.

Diane was educated, independent, compassionate and beautiful. Henri was much younger, and they adored each other. She dressed in black or white and wore fabulous, simple jewels. She was a superb equestrienne, quite sporting. All these qualities dramatically set her apart from her times. I use to think she was this fifteenth century ‘California golden girl’.

I bicycled to her chateau Chenonceaux, in the Loire Valley. And you cannot but be struck by this beautiful castle built over the river Cher. Chenonceaux had been a gift to Diane from Henri. And so, for years I had wanted to create an Iris perfume, and as I thought about it, Diane’s story was in the back of my mind. Mythique uses the most spectacular (and most costly) Florentine Orris butter. There is simply no other perfume on the market that uses this quality of Orris, and at this quantity.

The Iris is surrounded by other floral notes, many of which you find at the gardens of Chenonceaux. Yann and I are very proud of Mythique!!”

I am an admirer of M. Vasnier’s light style of composition which is particularly exemplified by the three male scents he has composed for Divine: L’Homme Sage, L’Homme de Coeur, and L’Etre Aime-Homme. All of these show a quite remarkable depth despite the delicate level of construction. I was looking forward to seeing what M. Vasnier would do when given the opportunity to work with a luxurious ingredient like Orris Butter. What M. Vasnier chose to do was to make a very green iris scent that has an easy wearability by either gender.

The top of Mythique begins with a bright citrus start of bergamot and mandarin. This is a particularly Florentine eau de cologne beginning and one has to wonder based on the inspiration for Mythique if this isn’t meant to evoke the air of Catherine de Medici in the background. Perhaps that is over thinking what is a beautiful beginning which is made unique by a subtle green note which, according to the note list, is ivy.

I like the use of this sharp greenery because it ushers in the heart of Mythique, and the Orris Butter, as from the citrus top notes the iris bursts on the scene.

The use of the Orris Butter is very evident to my nose as this iris does not have the cold edges that I find when iris pallida is used; but instead has a more sun-warmed feeling to it and a slightly more complex development on my skin.

The other flowers in Diane’s garden must have been peony and jasmine as they are the complimentary notes with the iris in the heart of Mythique. The peony is particularly prominent and a nice choice to keep the sweeter jasmine from turning the heart onto a more saccharine track.

The base really exudes the warmth begun by the Orris Butter as a mix of amberette, patchouli and sandalwood linger with a sheerness underneath the lingering iris and leave Mythique in a warm comforting place.

Mythique has excellent longevity and is very close wearing producing little sillage. I find Mythique to be one of my favorite date scents as I can smell it, and my wife can enjoy it on me, but it is an intimate fragrance shared by us. I am once again struck by the intensity of a scent that is so light wearing but then again it seems that this is rapidly becoming Yann Vasnier’s trademark and I look forward to his next effort quite eagerly.
 

Images: Parfums DelRae, Gilles 92, Tie Guy 2