Interviews Pierre Guillaume: Chemistry and Alchemy

Pierre Guillaume: Chemistry and Alchemy

01/12/10 12:05:32

By: Michelyn Camen

Pierre Guillaume is a perfumisto’s perfumer. From his first fragrance COZE, launched in 2002, he has built a reputation as one of the most meticulous and talented  independent perfumers in the world (he supervises his entire operation). Parfumerie Generale fragrances are worn by in the know aficionados worldwide.

 

His fragrances, like the man himself are dichotomous: private and forceful and always multi-faceted. His fragrances are numbered, as would be the way of a mathematician and they are titled, as would be the way of a magician or poet. He is a self-proclaimed chemist, yet  his fragrances are transformed on the skin - alchemy. Using a higher concentration of natural ingredients than is the standard, and believing that we live in a world that is using too many chemicals in our daily lives, Pierre sets the bar of what 21st- century perfumery  is and can be.

 

Why did you name the company Parfumerie Generale, when your fragrances are anything but "generale?"



Pierre Guillaume: PARFUMERIE GENERALE = a play on my initials PG PIERRE GUILLAUME, and also because I am coming from the chemical industry, it was a twist about the idea of luxury.



Where did you grow up and what is your first olfactive memory?

Pierre Guillaume: I grew up in Clermont-Ferrand, in Auvergne, France, where I still live and operate my business.

 

First olfactive memory? It was my father's cigar box... I remember precisely the odor that wafts into the room each time he opened it to choose a Cohiba, a Montechristo, a Monterey or a Statos to share with his best friend. I really had this odor in my mind when I created COZE (MC: pronunciation [kohz]).

 


I can say it was at this point, the start of my desire to not only be a fragrance collector but a fragrance creator. My father was a famous chemist; he built his own company. I studied chemistry, and I joined the family business.

What fragrance did you mother wear?

Pierre Guillaume: My mother perfumes? Armani Eau pour Homme (1984)!!! :-), Jean Louis Scherrer (1979), and finally Corps & Ames from PG.

What did you do before you were a perfumer?

Pierre Guillaume: Chemist, I am still a chemist, Michelyn

.

 



Why are your fragrances numbered?


Pierre Guillaume: Numbers are just an "androgynous" way to discover my fragrances. When you see some people in the street each day you don't care about their name, but if you start to talk with a man or a woman and something happens... you know, good feelings, a smile, a common idea, now there is a “relationship.” They are no longer a random person, one of billions. It’s someone connected to you (friend, love, neighbour), and because it is special you want to know his/her name! The same with my perfumes; they all have a name.
 

 

Most of your fragrances evoke ideas and stories Eau de Circe, Querelle, Jardin de Kerylos, Aomassai, Musc Maori, Une Crime Exotique, just to name a few. Which comes first the fragrance (the juice) or the concept (a place, material, character or time)?

Pierre Guillaume: 
It's a very complex process: sometimes, the name comes first in my mind and it's THE story about the fragrance, so the creative process begins. Sometimes something that touched me a lot (visit a place, a painting, photography, an encounter with someone. The desire to capture the corresponding emotion or state of mind give the energy to the artistic process.

What concentration of pure perfume is in your fragrances? Which are eau de parfums?

Pierre Guillaume: This depends on the richness and chemical nature of the Extract - it ranges from 10% to 30 % (MC Note: to compare with other perfumers the average is 10-15%).

Pierre, you number each of your fragrances on a scale that measures “sillage,” i.e. Coze has a lasting number assigned to it of 5 on a scale of 1-5, please elaborate.


Pierre Guillaume: It’s just to give an idea about each fragrance’s lasting power on a neutral support: mouillettes, aka perfume test blotters (MC’s note: They are dipped in fragrance, allowed to dry, then held, momentarily, close to the nose so that the fragrance may be inhaled. It is through the use of these smelling strips that fine perfumes are created, step by step, until the perfumer is ready to present the new compound).

 

Can you explain the photo affinage process: how it is done, how it
affects the behaviour of substances in perfumes, and to what extent it
contributes to your perfumes' unique character?

Pierre Guillaume: Photo-Affinage is a patented process... so, I cannot disclose details... But to resume: it uses certain chemicals for stabilization. Only two fragrances use this process in my line: COZE & EAU DE CIRCE.

 


 

Why are some of your fragrances differentiated by the name ‘Private Collection?”

Pierre Guillaume: Private Collection is a kind of a laboratory, to test perfume concepts. For example, L'Eau Guerrière joined the main line after 2 years in the Private Collection.

 

Pierre, you call yourself a chemist, but perfumery is much more than chemistry. How do you  function as both a chemist and a perfumer?
 
Pierre Guillaume: Artistical expression of a science and emotional technics! When you paint, you put some pigment on a surface... there's  no consequence, it's nice or not, it's emotional or not... it's the same with music or movie.

Maybe people might feel hurt with your pictures or lyrics but there's no danger to mix  seven musical notes or mix some blue with red by painting some flowers.

Perfumery is different because there's the user is  a person... you put something on your skin, a mix of different chemicals from natural or synthetic origin. It’s not only a matter of taste or emotion: you have to know perfectly what you are doing, understand the chemistry and the technicalities such as the IFRA safety and formulation rules!

 

Which of your six senses: touch, smell, taste, hearing, seeing, and intuition guides you?

Pierre Guillaume: Seeing! Definitely.

Please explain for our readers the meaning of “Diolene” which is used in your flacons.

Pierre Guillaume: This just the name of the glass-maker like Flacon Abeille or Tortue @ Guerlain...



Pierre, kindly explain how you run your operation from start to final packaging.

Pierre Guillaume: You have to create the juice (perfume extract or concentrate) and do the "Maturation," then several chemicals operation: dilution, maceration, additives, filtration, conditioning, packaging... + all the legal and safety studies: clinical studies, dermatological tests... and so it goes.

 

If someone loves and is attracted to one of your fragrances, say Iris Oriental, does that tell you anything about  their “chemistry?”

It doesn’t tell me anything at all. Perfumes and skin chemistry are a discriminating phenomenon without rules: you have to test. The more natural ingredients that are in a fragrance, the more variables, thus a fragrance will smell differently on everyone. Its the synthetic products that we call "la Galette" - Hedione/ Macrocyclic Muck/ Iso E Super that  are relatively stable. The more synthetics the more the fragrance will smell the same on every kind of skin. Welcome to Mass Market Perfumery. 





All 20 of your children (your perfumes) are special, but is there one that is perhaps the most evocative of you and your company?

Pierre Guillaume: My favourite is the next one, Michelyn, always the next one. Ok, you can consider COZE represents the DNA of the Parfumerie Generale brand: richness, quality, originality, technical twist and I hope a bit of wit.

How do you define a great fragrance?
 A fragrance you love.



In an interview several years ago you said, "I have just one friend in the world of perfume, that’s Francis (Kurkdjian)." What perspectives do the two of you share today?

Pierre Guillaume: 2006 is a long time ago.

 



Will you expand into home fragrances?

Pierre Guillaume: 
I have a small candle collection, but I am not an advocate of too many "fragrances" in the home environment.

Personal fragrances are ok, but to perfume every thing? The car, the elevator... it's using so many chemicals for nothing important. We need chemicals in every day life, but to perfume each second of your life: your house, your car, you office, the mall, a department store... what for???
 
I read a "House" just launched a scented candle that is supposed to smell like an "end of a party" when your friends are leaving your house. So what is the problem? Do you need some candles or some friends?

 

Do you believe that fine fragrance is an art or an ART? 


Pierre Guillaume: Fine perfumery is the 8th Art... You'll understand what I wan to say in the next months.

What is next for you and for us?

Pierre Guillaume: I am introducing a new fragrance “Papyrus de Ciane” in February 2010 and yes, there is a big surprise for the second half of the year, of which I hinted to your readers about above.

(Papyrus de Ciane, 24, on the left)



Images: Parfumerie Generale


Michelyn Camen is a New York City based writer and consultant who is a former Brandweek Marketer of the Year and Ad Age 100 recipient. She slipped off her power suit to pursue her passion for beauty and fragrance. Camen is a fragrance specialist and the owner of FifthSense N.Y.C., where she consults for niche luxury, fashion, beauty and fragrance companies.  
She is the Editor-at-Large www.fashiontribes.com, a top ten fashion e-zine and the Fragrance Editor for UptownSocial.net. Michelyn is  the former Senior Contributing Writer for Sniffapalooza Magazine, the former New in Niche Columnist for Basenotes and was the Editorial Director for Beauty News NYC & LA. Email her at fifthsensenyc@aol.com
 

 



perfumista diva
perfumista diva

one of the most thoughtful and interesting itnerview on this great company. I have already sampled papyrus and ciane and it is a lovely green woody scent,but i do love une crime exotique for winter

Feb
11
2010
Scentszilla
Scentszilla

There is definitely no perfumer more gorgeous (breathtakingly so !), nor perfumes more magnifi(s)cent than the perfect compositions of Monsieur Pierre Guillaume !!! ... Every single one of his creations a veritable masterpiece !

If I were forced to choose only one perfumers scents to wear for the rest of my life, PG would be my one and only choice (without even a moments hesitation).

Thank you sooo very much Monsieur Pierre, for all your "magical elixirs" !

In one word : "Incomparable" !

Feb
11
2010
jeca
jeca

I got my samples! I change them on my skin every day and haven't decided yet which I prefer better, they all are so amazing! I test a lot of fragrances, and very often it becomes routine, but PG fragrances are a wonderful finding of the year!

I am very grateful to PG house for the opportunity to try them, can't stop sniffing myself! They are not only beautiful, they are unique, odd, unusual. Of the highest quality, with incredible longevity.

Jan
24
2010
tenderblossoms
tenderblossoms

Such an interesting approach to perfume. nice to read about a perfumer who doesn't cut corners. and yes, as Mr. Guillaume states we need to stop using so many chemicals. everything from our laundry soap to our car's air fresheners and our dodarants are scented. Too MUCH. and its bad for the environment

Jan
19
2010
CourtrightHer
CourtrightHer

Another killer interview! Don't know how you do it Michelyn. Now all I need to to do is go out and smell/ samples/ purchases some of Pierre Guillaume's fragrnaces. Splendid insight into another great artist.

Jan
17
2010
Andy Austin
Andy Austin

what can I say.... I love thee interviews. I learn so much from them. I have not tried any yet.... but my wife loves circe. I see it on her dresser. I looked on the website adnd think I saw three that have my name on them. great interview

Jan
17
2010
JoAnne Bassett
JoAnne Bassett

A very fascinating interview. Thank you both...All of my senses were aroused. I am intrigued about the 8th art comment.

Great quote: How do you define a great fragrance?
 A fragrance you love.



Jan
16
2010
ayala
ayala

I totally agree with Pierre Guillame, that for each composition, the ideal concentration will be different. Excellent interview. I'm very intrigued by both Monssieur PG and his creations after reading this. I'm glad to see that they are offered at The Perfume Shoppe in Vancouver.

Jan
15
2010
gigimeansgood
gigimeansgood

Fascinating interview. I love that he thinks that perfumes must be tried because they are a unique individual result of the personal chemistry and the myriad of natural ingredients.

I wish I understood what drives him to continue creating perfume when he is an accomplished chemist where his work product would have a far less subjective audience! His "always the next one" comment about what is his favorite is interesting but why continue? What is he chasing?
Gigi

Jan
15
2010
gblue
gblue

Fascinating! Not overly familiar with the line but I remember enjoying Iris Taizo.
Makes me want to try them again.

Jan
15
2010
CarmelPerfumer
CarmelPerfumer

This exceptional interview between two fine talents who share great synergy is a delightful read that I have shared with several friends and colleagues.

Besides being an exemplary chemist and perfumer, Mr. Guillaume is refreshingly confident, witty and candid. As an independent perfumer myself, I wholeheartedly concur with and appreciate Mr. Guillaume’s sensibilities regarding mass market perfumery, the need to incorporate more gorgeous naturals, and his witty encouragement to question the marketing messages of big corporations.

Mr. Guillaume’s candid disclosures regarding the artistic process were thoughtfully insightful and generously revealing. Sir, you have my admiration. Best wishes for your launch of “Papyrus de Ciane” and your much anticipated new conceptualization of the 8th Art.

Sincerely,
Shelley Waddington

Jan
14
2010
Leah Z
Leah Z

Fascinating interview; it really brings out the perfumer's unique character and perspective. Informative and great questions.

Jan
14
2010
aromam
aromam

Very Nice interview. I am intrigued about the "8th Art" comment and looking forward to seeing what he means. Thank you Michelyn as always for your interesting questions.

Jan
14
2010
cynthia44
cynthia44

yes a truly beautiful man and interview... I enjoy the cadjmere in winter. Also the brulere de roses all year long. Such an articulate discussion of perfumery. I am fascinated by these perfumes . now I understand why. thank you Mr. Guillaume and Michelyn

Jan
14
2010
scentual healing
scentual healing

this is perfume. Ms. Camen is correct. Pierre Guillaume is the future of perfumery. I own 5 of his fragrances, rose brulere, circe, coze, querelle, and felanilla and can't wait for his new one. If I could only wear one perfumer's fragranes it would be his. A perfect storm of an interview.

Jan
13
2010
mgoldsmith7
mgoldsmith7

A wonderfully crafted article, not only in terms of the interview but also in terms of the juxtaposition of visuals and content. Beautiful and appealing to look at; lively in the reading. It made me want to go out immediately and try Guillaume's perfumes, which I have not yet tried!

Jan
13
2010
gknight
gknight

An excellent interview! Very insightful and eloquent! Thank you Pierre for the wonderful works of art that you create and thanks Michelyn for the interview.

Jan
13
2010
danna
danna

An intelligent and thoughtful interview.I wear Coze, but now I must order samples of them all! thank you Fragrantica, Mr. Guillaume and Michelyn for insights into "alchemy and chemistry"... I was very interested learning about why there are numbers and names

Jan
13
2010
Manouchkeva
Manouchkeva

I really appreciate Pierre Guillaume's work. I have the chance to be now friend with Anne, owner of "Qu'importe le Flacon", a high select perfume store in Montpellier (France), and she loves his work as well. So, I took time, with her, to try every single creation. My favorite is "l'Ombre Fauve", and I wear it nearly everyday... I really appreciate as well "L'Eau Guerrière", "Cuir Venenum", "Musc Maori", "Tubéreuse Couture" and "Cadjméré". And Anne juste received another creation from the Private Collection, "Bois de Copaïba".
Thanks for this great interview, Michelyn !!!

Jan
13
2010
jeca
jeca

I see everyone is in love with Aomassai (with black stones), Black smoky tea in Rare Matale seems to be my kind of fragrance... What are your favorites from PG?

My samples are on the way to me ;o)))

Jan
13
2010
vertigo
vertigo

what a man!
gorgeous!!!

Jan
13
2010
DallasArtsSalon
DallasArtsSalon

Great interview MC as always. Read it as I woke up this morning. makes me want to skip work and go find Pierre's fragrances. Wonder if Barney's NY sells them in Dallas? Thanks.

Jan
13
2010
signature_scent
signature_scent

Under what rock have I been hiding? Can't believe I was unfamilair with the posrtfolio of this perfumer! Trust me, after your interview I am dying to have my first olfactory introduction. Thanks for the tantilizing tid bits.

Jan
12
2010
Flora55
Flora55

Wonderful interview, and what an interesting and beautiful young man he is. I must check to see if I have any samples of his perfumes in my stash of recent swaps, I have so many new ones I have not tried yet, must catch up. And if I don't have any I will have to get some soon!

I MUST smell Corps et Ames, I am a Chypre lover for sure. And I am pretty sure that Eae de Circe' is "calling my name." They all sound intriguing.

Oh - and ditto what darlingbuds said, too. :-)

Jan
12
2010
Somerville Metro Man
Somerville Metro Man

I really like many of the scents of this line.
Querelle has one of the most unique uses of caraway.
L'Eau Gurriere is also another that I find very special.
Michelyn you did a great job in getting M. Guillaume to talk about his inspirations and aspirations.

Jan
12
2010
dimitrifromlondon
dimitrifromlondon

Great insite, Michelyn. Now I have to smell it!! Thank you.
Dimi3

Jan
12
2010
flittersniffer
flittersniffer

Pierre Guillaume is one of the perfumers I most admire for the originality and quality of the PG line, and L'Ombre Fauve and Brulure de Rose count amongst my very favourite scents. He may think of himself as a "chemist" first and foremost, but I find those two scents in particular affecting at a deep emotional level.

Thanks, Michelyn, for yet another fascinating read!

Jan
12
2010
Kathryn
Kathryn

Your interviews never fail to surprise and delight, Michelyn. I think Pierre Guillaume’s perfumes are at the cutting edge of what is truly new and wonderful in the world of fragrance. I feel very lucky to wear a few of them and am fascinated that such intensely emotional scents are the result of such precise analytical processes. But perhaps that is the sign of true mastery of an art form—the seamless merging of thought and emotion. Kudos to Fragrantica for keeping us informed not just about the present but also the future of perfume.

Jan
12
2010
chayaruchama
chayaruchama

I make it a point to smell everything that Monsieur Guillaume creates; I find each fascinating- and often revelatory.

I find it of interest that Corps et Ames is his mother's choice-
Of the many 'sniffeuses' I know, there are very few- excluding myself and Nasrin of Canada's Perfumme Shoppe-
That adore it as she does.
It is a singularly sophisticated chypre.

I am frequently drawn to the more challenging scents, such as Querelle, which I adore for its caraway vetiver.

Yet others speak to me on a visceral level, like L'Ombre Fauve.

If I may be so bold, I enjoy Monsieur Guillaume's rational approach very much; in many ways, he reminds me of Monsieur Laudamiel, who also sees himself as a chemist [ among other talents !], and taught at MIT ;-)

Thank you BOTH- Michelyn and PG- for your time and care.

It is a great pleasure to read interviews in which both intelligence and talent are clearly visible.

Jan
12
2010
flannelman
flannelman

Like Jeca, I'm afraid I've never had the chance to smell Pierre Guillaume's creations. But I can _easily_ find many (Coze, Aomassai, Musc Maori, Cadjmere &c.) which would be great to finally test!

Thanks, Michelyn, for yet again a very nice interview.

Jan
12
2010
maisqueperfume
maisqueperfume

I first learned about the brand during a trip to Rome, specifically in Olfattorio - bar a parfums. It made my trip special because the fragrances are really well built and full of personality. I wished I could have brought many bottles with me.

It is really inspiring to read his words. Specially when introduced by this amazing editor.
thank you Michelyn for this incredible piece and thank you Pierre for making the art of perfumery something so beautiful.
Your fragrances are a must to all educated noses!

Jan
12
2010
ddrchly
ddrchly

As French I know parfumerie Generale and it is really difficult to obtain an intervew from Pierre Guillaume. Good questions and of course good replies. Thank you for your contribution.

Jan
12
2010
jeca
jeca

I haven't smelled his perfumes yet! Catastrophe!!! Sense of seeing guides him, for sure, he has so attractive advertisements for his scents. Handsome man makes very tempting scents ;o))

Jan
12
2010
da_markos
da_markos

nice interview - like always. thx Michelyn

Jan
12
2010
dabneyrose
dabneyrose

Quite inspiring!!! Visually, and verbally! A clean, sparkling article that invokes purity and class. Very glad this one crossed my path.

Jan
12
2010
darlingbuds
darlingbuds

I'm not sure what I'd rather sniff: his perfumes or the gorgeous nape of his neck.

Beautiful through and through.

Jan
12
2010

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