Niche Perfumery Ramon Monegal Barcelona

Ramon Monegal Barcelona

08/08/12 18:33:14

By: Elena Vosnaki

It has been my belief for a while now that not a few among the upstart companies in the perfume niche sector have recently launched out of the market received knowledge that only the luxury niche sector is really experiencing (and is set to further experience) a surge in sales; that’s not counting the celebrity scent circuit, of course, which follows its own peculiar course. Much as I am set in my views, I’m really passionate about perfume at heart and therefore I just love being discredited in this game by companies that start with an actual relevant past behind them and which create a line that presents not only quality but tangible love for perfume as well. Ramon Monegal, coming from the founder of historic brand Myrurgia from Spain, purveyors to the Spanish Royal family, and just launching in the USA, is a case in point. As their official presentation says:


“In 1979 Ramon Monegal, the perfumer, created his first fragrance, Alada or 'Winged,' which brought unexpected success to the Myrurgia House. It led the domestic market for decades. Not until 2007, did he decide to relinquish his emotional ties to the family project to which he had dedicated most of his life, making the decision to initiate a new project. He longed to reach the end user as a true perfumist, without filters, without system, without subterfuge.”

A fourth generation perfumer, the experience of a long history, the desire to pave the path for the fifth generation ahead...


I was fortunate to be sent samples by the house directly, which facilitates a leisurely and detailed acquaintance with the perfume line instead of the inevitably rushed, cursory sniffing that takes place in a fragrance boutique. A good thing, too, as the line does demand the time since it’s both comprehensive, with a great selection of several genres, and nuanced enough to warrant a more detailed approach.

To me the Ramon Monegal line comprises at least three distinct sub-plots: there is the familiar raw material highlighting series, including the delicate and dreamy Impossible Iris, full-bodied Mon Patchouly, the floral elegance of L’Eau de Rose or the stupendous leather of Mon Cuir; there are complex fragrances that reside on the more abstract side of the equation, with names to match, such as Kiss my Name, Umbra with its alliance of rooty vetiver and moss with the polished almondy smoothness of tonka beans, or the happily optimistic fruity floral Lovely Day; and finally there are a few musks, layered with diverse notes that kick the balance into wild arpeggios, such as Agar Musk (marrying oud with musk into a symphony of feral growl and meditative sobriety), or Cherry Musk (as happily succulent and contradictory as the name suggests).
 

And of course there is the classic Spanish signature: Entre Naranjos ("Between Orange Trees") which plays with the Mediterranean ideal of a bright, transporting and vivid composition, usually encapsulated through the orange tree; here the trajectory goes from orange blossoms and neroli steam distillate of the flowers to the bitterish orange fruit rind with its soapy freshness, taking on a more polished, anchored tone thanks to a touch of exotic essences.

Personal favorites inevitably emerged while sampling and it might be unfair to mention them right away lest anyone is discouraged to try the ones not hereby praised, but the fragrances created such excitement that I cannot but share them with you, even if prematurely, as I’m planing on returning to them.


Mon Cuir seduced me with all the rough vigor of classic tarry Russian leather, but it was its smooth overlay with floral notes (in this occasion the feminine liquor of orange blossom absolute) that really sent an arrow through my heart. I have been happily wearing my sample for days and it never tires me or bores me, a feat for a jaded perfume author.

This orientalized leather fragrance is passionate like a night under a moonless sky when the breeze brings on whispers of dare and danger, and I long for cooler nights when I can pair it with the bravado of real leather. But Ramon Monegal has not one but two leathery fragrances in their archives: Cuirelle, a play on “cuir” (i.e. leather) is actually more about a dry incense and rooty grasses (vetiver prominent among them with all the licorice facets of the raw material highlighted) that it stands as something different enough to draw one into attention immediately: darkly sweet and less “take no prisoners” in attitude than Mon Cuir, Cuirelle is aimed at those who are lured by the promise of booze and spice.
 

Impossible Iris stood as the perfect metallic and woody iris to encapsulate and recapitulate all we have come to expect from a prime iris fragrance; there is the delicate, shy beginning with the cool touch, then comes the touch of woolly mimosa with its hint of warmth to smile into the proceedings, while the quiet, bookish woody tonality of the aftermath with its pencil shavings nuance is enough to consolidate it among the richer in nuance irises.

Dry Wood is surprising in that it becomes drier and drier as the fragrance dries down on skin; the beguiling opening of aromatic spices (bay, pepper and a wink of tangy citron) only  sets the scene for a full on forest tableau vivant to follow where every bark and every branch come alive.

The visual presentation of the Ramon Monegal perfume line, all presented in Eau de Parfum concentration, is the finishing touch. From the caps embossed with the monogram of the founder to the cool-looking inkwell flacons faceted like a precious antique object for dramatic letter-writing to accompany acts of desperate passion and calculated scheming, the look is luxurious and graceful.

Individual and more detailed reviews of the perfumes in the Ramon Monegal line to follow!

Images of perfumes by Ramon Monegal
 


Author: Elena Vosnaki is a historian & perfume writer from Greece and a Writer to Fragrantica. She is the founder and editor of Perfume Shrine, one of the most respected independent online publications on perfume containing fragrance reviews, industry interviews, essays on raw materials and perfume history, a winner in Fragrantica Blog Awards and a finalist in numerous blog awards contests. Her writing was recognised at the Fifi Awards for Editorial Excellence in 2009 and she has been contributing to publications around the world.
 

 



APassionateJourney
APassionateJourney

Ok, they're up for pre-order at Neiman Marcus . Com

Aug
26
2012
rickyrebarco
rickyrebarco

I see it's available on Luckyscent.com.

Aug
13
2012
rickyrebarco
rickyrebarco

Wonderful review- thank you so much. I just finished Alyssa Hadad's book about scent and she elevates you to stardom in her book. I see why- fabulous writing with great information. I am dying to try the Mon Cuir. Where are these available? Online, in which stores? Thanks for any information.

Aug
13
2012
LANIER
LANIER

Thanks Elena for a great introduction to this line. "Mon Cuir" sounds like it was made for me! I can't wait to try it.

Aug
09
2012
sergio.fiorenzi
sergio.fiorenzi

I loved all the Ramon's perfume line, he is great and his perfumes are wonderful.

Aug
09
2012
esperanza
esperanza

Excellent review, my favorite is Cuirelle as well. To me it is like liquid honey or caramel. The bottles are sold at luckyscents and first in fragrance online.

Aug
09
2012
APassionateJourney
APassionateJourney

Yes, please. Also, if you could get the US prices :)

Aug
08
2012
jeca
jeca

Thank you, Paulina ;o)
We'll ask their representative about stores, do you mean in the USA?

Aug
08
2012
APassionateJourney
APassionateJourney

These bottles are beautiful and the notes look great. What stores will this be sold in? Did the press materials tell you?

Aug
08
2012
paulina
paulina

Awesome article. Just one small correction to the "Entre naranjos" translation: the word "naranjo" doesn't mean orange, but orange tree (equivalent to "oranger" in French). "Naranja" means orange, the fruit. So "Entre naranjos" would mean: among orange trees.

Aug
08
2012

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