Raw Materials

Peonies in Perfumery and CultivationPeonies in Perfumery and Cultivation

Raw Materials 08/12/16 09:34 (22 comments)

Not so long ago at the Moscow Botanical Garden there was an exposition of peonies with dozens of cultivars including garden hybrids and itoh-hybrids. I visited this exposition and today I want to share with you my photos of these beautiful flowers and to talk a bit about the story of the cultivation and development of peonies and their aromas. I also will mention the difference of the smell from cultivar to cultivar. Peony  ( lat. Paeónia ) — i... (more)

A brief review of the history and analysis of a 'peony' note in perfumery with numerous photo examples.

Metallic Scent In PerfumeryMetallic Scent In Perfumery

Raw Materials 08/10/16 15:20 (24 comments)

From time to time, when experiencing perfumes or household product smells, we notice a metallic aspect. People often call it a "metallic" smell, saying it smells like metal or steel. But does metal have a smell? To perceive a smell it has to be volatile; molecules have to physically fly into your nose, come into contact with a receptor and launch a chain of biochemical processes that the brain interprets as a certain type of odor. But it does not seem that metals are excessive... (more)

What is hidden behind a metallic accord?

D&G Light Blue: Fright & Repulsion In Light Blue

D&G Light Blue: Fright & Repulsion In Light BlueRaw Materials 08/02/16 23:15 (28 comments)

Celebrating the 15th anniversary of D&G Light Blue!

Where Does Cashmere Wood Grow?

Where Does Cashmere Wood Grow?Raw Materials 07/29/16 13:44 (13 comments)

Cashmeran and its fellow odorants in our favorite perfumes.

Sunshine Fragrances

Sunshine FragrancesRaw Materials 06/25/16 03:11 (7 comments)

Heliotropin and Helional in our favorite fragrances.

Partial Anosmia, Olfactory Adaptation or Why I Do Not Smell

Partial Anosmia, Olfactory Adaptation or Why I Do Not Smell Raw Materials 06/23/16 09:24 (25 comments)

What is the secret of "insensible" Escentric Molecules and such?

Calone: The Air of the 1990s

Calone: The Air of the 1990sRaw Materials 06/20/16 07:55 (15 comments)

The main trend at the end of the 20th century from a chemist's point of view.

Tonka Beans and Coumarin

Tonka Beans and CoumarinRaw Materials 06/17/16 05:58 (18 comments)

"Fougère Royale was about 10% coumarin. From that very moment we begin the modern era in perfume history."

Forbidden Smell is Sweet: IFRA and Fragrance Safety

Forbidden Smell is Sweet: IFRA and Fragrance SafetyRaw Materials 06/04/16 05:42 (38 comments)

What IFRA is and how it works.

Indole: The Maestro Is Decomposing

Indole: The Maestro Is DecomposingRaw Materials 05/19/16 16:03 (20 comments)

Indole smells of despair and decay...a good start for a review, isn't it?

Aldehydes in Perfumery Mythology

Aldehydes in Perfumery MythologyRaw Materials 04/15/16 08:45 (24 comments)

"It is important to understand that aldehydes are not artificial substances, results of human work. Lots of them occur in nature."

The History of Iso E Super in Perfumery

The History of Iso E Super in PerfumeryRaw Materials 03/22/16 15:48 (33 comments)

"The smell of this ingredient has made a huge difference to the world of modern perfumery and largely defined its directions."

Spikenard Magic

Spikenard MagicRaw Materials 03/10/16 04:23 (3 comments)

"No sooner than you realized the scent had turned foul then the unthinkable happened, it turned into the most beautiful smell you have ever encountered."

Sequoia: Hello, Mr. President...

Sequoia: Hello, Mr. President...Raw Materials 01/17/16 08:20 (7 comments)

Meeting with the largest trees on Earth and their scents.

Scents of New Year's Eve: What Did You Wear?Scents of New Year's Eve: What Did You Wear?

01/01/16 04:38 (123 comments)

Christmas Scents: Part VI, MandarineChristmas Scents: Part VI, Mandarine

12/25/15 03:04 (8 comments)

Christmas Scents: Part V, PineChristmas Scents: Part V, Pine

12/18/15 04:03 (25 comments)

Christmas Scents: Part IV, ClovesChristmas Scents: Part IV, Cloves

12/11/15 06:29 (25 comments)

Christmas Scents: Part III, FirChristmas Scents: Part III, Fir

12/03/15 20:22 (14 comments)

Christmas Scents: Part II, CinnamonChristmas Scents: Part II, Cinnamon

11/27/15 16:07 (28 comments)

Christmas Scents: Part I, SpruceChristmas Scents: Part I, Spruce

11/20/15 09:26 (10 comments)

Ambrette: Suave Vegetal MuskAmbrette: Suave Vegetal Musk

10/30/15 19:55 (9 comments)

OUD SERIES: Fragrance Du Bois – PerfumeryOUD SERIES: Fragrance Du Bois – Perfumery

08/29/14 16:15 (4 comments)

OUD SERIES: The Smell of Oud by TerroirOUD SERIES: The Smell of Oud by Terroir

03/10/14 16:20 (4 comments)

Natural and Synthetic MuskNatural and Synthetic Musk

03/06/14 16:34 (39 comments)

OUD SERIES: This is the Smell of Oud OilOUD SERIES: This is the Smell of Oud Oil

02/24/14 19:37 (10 comments)

Synthetic Pathways to Sandalwood NotesSynthetic Pathways to Sandalwood Notes

02/23/14 12:44 (17 comments)

OUD SERIES: Rolling In The Deep Without AdeleOUD SERIES: Rolling In The Deep Without Adele

02/18/14 14:42 (4 comments)

OUD SERIES: How to burn Oud WoodOUD SERIES: How to burn Oud Wood

01/29/14 20:15 (15 comments)

OUD SERIES: The Oud OeuvreOUD SERIES: The Oud Oeuvre

01/20/14 17:36 (15 comments)

The Crocus-Hued Stigma of SaffronThe Crocus-Hued Stigma of Saffron

01/19/14 16:13 (17 comments)

OUD SERIES: My name is dehn al Oud …OUD SERIES: My name is dehn al Oud …

01/14/14 15:32 (29 comments)


11/18/13 15:11 (5 comments)


08/30/13 14:06 (2 comments)

Note du Jour: Pink PepperNote du Jour: Pink Pepper

08/22/13 13:11 (10 comments)


07/14/13 07:48 (4 comments)


07/06/13 13:31 (11 comments)

Galbanum: Green, Acrid BitternessGalbanum: Green, Acrid Bitterness

07/02/13 05:15 (17 comments)

Mimosa and CassieMimosa and Cassie

05/18/13 12:53 (7 comments)


03/17/13 08:01 (10 comments)


01/27/13 14:41 (5 comments)

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