Interviews Summer of Patchouli Love:  Monica Miller discusses peace, love, patchouli and perfume

Summer of Patchouli Love: Monica Miller discusses peace, love, patchouli and perfume

09/02/11 08:30:32

By: Jodi Battershell


Fragrantica presented two recent stories that involve a perfume originally developed for the Perfume Pharmer's Peace, Love and Patchouli project. Providence Perfume Co.'s Rose Boheme debuted in its original form for the contest, and April Aromatics' Bohemian Spice was also produced for the contest. As this Summer of Patchouli Love wraps up, we invite our readers to take a closer look at one of 2011's most interesting perfume events.

PEACE, LOVE and PATCHOULI
 
First, let's meet the creator of Perfumer Pharmer and the "Pharm Marm," Monica Skye Miller. Monica has an interesting background. A child of parents who were active participants in the Peace and Love movement of the 1960s, she is also a farmer and Master Herbalist with 20+ years experience using herbs and essential oils cosmetically, aromatherapeutically and internally for good health. Her company, Skye Botanicals, was started as a way to have a business and be able to stay at home with her small children. More than sixteen years later, Skye Botanicals continues to offer botanical-based skin care products and perfumes from its Martha's Vineyard location.
 
Regarding the Peace, Love and Patchouli (affecionately abbreviated as "PLAP") contest, the rules were simple. Perfumers had to use a minimum of 25% patchouli in the blend, in a base of 15% alcohol. The fragrance must consist of all natural ingredients, including essential oils, absolutes, natural isolates, extracts and natural animal ingredients. The perfumes were sent to Monica, who decanted them into plain, randomly-numbered silver spray atomizers or glass vials and distributed them to the judges.  
 

Perfume Pharmer
is a collaborative blog that discusses natural perfumes, aromatherapy, recipes, with a little spirituality and even poetry thrown in. As Monica explains, "Anything that brings us closer to our inner being such as Astrology, Tarot or the I Ching, is related to perfume in that scents are an inner journey, scents evoke feelings, passions, memories and dreams. Scent affects us in profound ways. Some perfumers use this knowledge consciously within their creations and many use it unconsciously but still to great effect. With the right intention, skill, and ingredients a perfume can be a meditative aid, a spiritual guide, a healing substance or a purification ritual as well as the most common use for perfume. . . an aphrodisiac.  Scent touches us deeply. So does poetry.  How does one write about a scent effectively? Poetically. It is about contacting the human emotional sphere in the right places."
 
 

The blog has a goal:  "To save the world with perfume." Monica is convinced that it is possible to follow one's passion for scent and save the world. "Here’s the thing. We all want the same thing really. The material girls and boys want continued access to quality goods including perfume. The only way they are going to get this is to protect the natural environment. For instance tonka, a major perfume ingredient, grows on canopy trees in tropical rainforests. We can’t save our tonka ingredient without saving the rainforest." Or to put it more succinctly, Monica says, "I can wear Alexander McQueen and save the Earth at the same time. Straddle both worlds."
 
There is no single definition of "natural perfume," and there are varying schools of thought on what ingredients it can or should include. Monica provides a definition that will be familiar to fans of natural perfumery: "A natural perfume is one that is wholly from natural origin ingredients including pure essential oils, CO2 extracts, plant tinctures, resins, isolates extracted from essential oils or made from natural materials such as sugar, animal materials such as ambergris and civet . . . and composed using natural bases such as pure plant alcohol or oil. Some perfumers and consumers want their products animal-free. I am including animal ingredients not because I endorse them but because they are, in fact, natural."

However, Monica will be the first to tell you that "Natural" is not a religion for her.  She further explains, "I also think that there is no such thing as non-natural.  Everything comes from nature, including crude oil which humans have cleverly used as a base material for so many things including aroma chemicals. Where does crude oil come from? The Earth. It would be a fairer statement/question perhaps to ask which materials are more compatible with the human organism? Usually the answer will be plant ingredients, the less refined the better."

With her characteristic sense of humor, she shares the tongue-in-cheek term she created to describe her philosophy regarding perfumes. "Bi-Scentual, meaning 'the guilt-free enjoyment of both natural and mixed media scents.'" For Monica, both mixed media and natural perfumes have their place. "To quote myself, 'I wear mixed media perfumes to go out. I wear natural perfumes to go in.'  What this means to me is that mixed natural/synthetic tend to have far greater sillage and longevity. When I’m out I want people to be attracted to my fragrance! Naturals tend to stay much closer to the skin. I wear them at home as 'inner journeys,' as emotion enhancers, as . . . meditative tools."
 

Winners of the PEACE, LOVE and PATCHOULI contest:


As the Summer of Patchouli Love 2011 winds to a close, the official winners of the Peace, Love and Patchouli contest have been announced.  First place went to Scent #13, Kedra Hart/Opus Oils' entry, "Wild Child."  Rodney Hues of Therapeutate, Scent #14 Royal Water took second place.  Third place was awarded to Perfume #11, Bodhi Satva, by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. First place in the Islander's Choice category was Scent #1, Go Ask Alice by En Voyage Perfumes, with Wild Child taking second place and Royal Water and Bodhi Satva tying for third. The winners received award banners designed by Katlyn Breene of Mermade Magickal Arts and sculptural award trophies by Martha’s Vineyard artisan Jamie Rogers.
 

But in the end, everyone who particpated in the contest as a perfumer, judge or sniffer is a winner. Monica provided me with complimentary samples of all the PLAP perfumes, and as a patchouli lover, I found all of them delightful. My personal favorite of the bunch was Queen of Punk by Amanda Feeley of Escentual Alchemy.
 
Monica hopes her efforts encourage more perfume-lovers to try natural perfumes. Perfume Pharmer already has another project in mind for 2012. Monica's stepmother is noted author and activist Starhawk, and the project is inspired by Starhawk's best-selling novel, The Fifth Sacred Thing.  The project's name is TBA, but it will focus on the Elements—Fire, Water, Earth and Air. Monica notes a key difference for this contest. "The fragrances will include mixed media as well as all natural. We feel that inclusivity is both more fun and will attract a larger audience."
 
Do you want to try all 13 patchouli perfumes?


Perfume Pharmer
would like to keep the spirit of Peace, Love and Patchouli moving forward by providing a sample box of the 13 different PLAP perfumes (retail value $65) to one lucky Fragrantica winner. To enter the contest, please share your feelings and thoughts about patchouli in perfume in the comment below.


The WINNER is mister_chaz Congratulations!
Sorry, the contest is over, but there will be more giveaways on Fragrantica
 

Read more about the Summer of Patchouli Love and purchase samples of the PLAP perfumes at the Perfume Pharmer website. Thank you, Monica, for sharing your story with our readers and we look forward to the next project!
 

The Summer of Patchouli Love project's logo was designed by Elizabeth Whelan
 

 

Author: Jodi Battershell (NebraskaLovesScent)

Fragrantica Editor & Writer
jodi@fragrantica.com
 

 



 



imgcas
imgcas

Patchouli has grown on me since I started to be a perfumista, some years ago. At first, I disliked it and now I almost adore it.
Now, I would wear happily something like Patchouli by Reminiscence. In fact, I'd love to own a full bottle of it.
I think that the perfume which made the difference for me was État libre d'Orange Nombril Immense. It was so delicious that I couldn't believe it had patchouli.

From this project I have tried Bohemian Spice and it is wonderfully done. It reminds me a bit of Eau d'Italie Baume du Doge, but stronger. It's really comforting.
I'd love to try the rest of scents.

Sep
05
2011
womo531
womo531

Patchouli reminds me of Boston. Being from Texas I didn't encounter many hippies until college. In Boston, they're everywhere. Straight up patchouli use to scare me because images of dreadlocks and folks who haven't showered in a week would pop into my head and that's definitely NOT what I wanted. What got me to warm up to Patchouli was actually Lush Karma, it was such a different take on it, far from the hippie straight up patchouli I was able to wear it with confidence. Now, years later, dark resinous patchouli is like gold!

Sep
04
2011
guest_
guest_

Patchouli has always been an exotic earthy scent with a sensual and spiritual essence for me, it travels through the air with a message of earthly delights. My darling husband wears it well and I love to use it in my healing balms and creams with orange as a settler. It is often a presence in my healing work and helps to balance the more medicinal scents of Arnica Birch and Lavender I use for deep muscle and joint healing and along with these essences helps to balance the nervous system and keep the patient in a state of balance with the emphasis on pleasure. Tee hee I laugh as I write that last word and all the connotations it has for me with my early Catholic school conditioning.. Hey! Pleasure is good! lol I would like to qualify for some patchouli. I wanted to be a patch bunny but I missed the boat..

Sep
04
2011
M.Vaillancourt
M.Vaillancourt

I love patchouly since I smelled Borneo. Actually, the blending of patch and chocolate seems to be a very natural association, since the smell of the leaves have a chocolaty facet. Patchouli has a distinct and interesting aroma that you won't be smelling on everyone, making it unique!!

Sep
04
2011
Akahina
Akahina

Patchouli is one of those scents that takes me back, back to the days of hippies and the era of peace and love. It was a ubiquitous scent of the era and always has that earthy and sweet smell of the 60s. As an ingredient in fragrances it is always one that I enjoy, and blended well with other ingredients often makes it better. It would be a joy to see how those with a nose could blend this magical ingredient into new fragrances for a new century. Yes, I would love to sample all of these!

Sep
03
2011
NebraskaLovesScent
NebraskaLovesScent

I'm enjoying everyone's comments. Who knew patchouli had so many fans? :-)

I found Monica's perspective on perfumes--both natural and mixed media--to be very refreshing!

Folks who are interested in purchasing a box of the samples can visit the Perfume Pharmer website. They also have a few "Diva" size samples (5 ml) of the scents still available.

I believe all of the perfumers also have the scents available for purchase on their individual websites. Check 'em out!

Sep
03
2011
intime
intime

patchouli in perfume makes me feel in touch with my soul

Sep
03
2011
naheed
naheed

What are wonderful read, Jodi! I am very impressed with Monica's philosophy.

For me Patchouli has a power to enhance your mood and calms your nerves but I am still in the look for a patchouli that wins my heart.

Sep
03
2011
Fiferstone
Fiferstone

I have been wearing patchouli in one form or another (usually an essential oil) since the late 70's/early 80's. I typically like Tunisian patchouli the best, I find it develops more sweetly/with less of a musty odor with my chemistry than patchouli grown elsewhere, and many of the frags in my wardrobe that are in heavy rotation have patchouli usually in the base or heart notes.

In perfumery, I find that Patchouli gives a "bottom" or complexity to the composition that otherwise would be lacking, it provides an interesting element that, if used skillfully, does not necessarily announce itself as "I'm Patchouli...here I am!" You're just aware that there is a depth/complexity to the fragrance, a sweet/earthy "bass" to the composition.

It also helps that my husband finds Patchouli to be very sexy on me :). His signature scent is Aramis (which unfortunately is getting a bit more difficult to find) and Patchouli figures large in the composition of that particular gentleman savage. I love Aramis on him.

Good luck, and if I'm not the eventual winner I would love to know if the scents in the contest are going to be made available to the public, I would love to purchase them.

Sep
03
2011
pumpkintime
pumpkintime

I'd love to experience the PLAP scents, to find out how the different perfumers met their minimum 25% patchouli content requirement and still came up with such different perfumes at the end. Fascinating experiment.

Straight-forward patchouli essential oil floats my boat so it would be wonderful to experience different takes on the earthy and distinctive scent.

Thanks for offering the chance to join in with PLAP!

Sep
03
2011
Queen_cupcake
Queen_cupcake

I have always loved patchouli, having worn it in the 60's as a teenager. What really impresses me is the dedication the new perfumers show in their work, creating beautiful works with natural ingredients. I never dreamed that the patchouli oil I adored as a teen would be elevated to such heights as those expressed in the efforts of so many talented folks. Perfume Pharmer's Peace, Love and Patchouli Project is obviously a labor of love and a dedication to the ethics of Peace which were fostered long ago and continue to this day. My hope is for all people to remain close to Mother Earth and nourish her as she nourishes us.

Sep
03
2011
a.k.a.warum
a.k.a.warum

My friend's mother wasn't feeling very well. She was in bed and nothing seemed to please her. A difficult patient, she seemed to ask for more different things than her friend, my daughter, could bring to her. Finally, my friend's mother blurted out: "I want you to bring me some patchouli to smell". I am not kidding. My friend said, "WHAT???@!!!" but recalled that she had some patchouli oil and brought it to her Mom. That seems to do the trick. No, patchouli did not cure her Mom's illness, but it cured her restlessness and gave my friend some needed peace.

I think this story summarizes the effect of patchouli in fragrances: it provides the centering, grounding, and often times slows one down and brings one peace.

Peace!
Thanks for the draw and good luck to the perfumers!

Sep
03
2011
Chickenboo
Chickenboo

Patchouli = mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!

I think of a magical forest...

Sep
03
2011
Wega
Wega

I was surprised to find that I love every patchouli I've come across - even the moldy dank ones!
I think I like the sweeter chypres best, but I'd LOVE to try others and see! I do like patch in perfumes to be strong and very recognizable, so I was excited to hear about the Summer of Patchouli Love contest to create a patch-centric perfume.

Even though I have a zodiac air sign, I've always been drawn most to earthy scents. They say depth, humanity, love and "mmmmm" to me.

:-) Wega

Sep
03
2011
Cynthia3403
Cynthia3403

Patchiouli is one of those notes I sometimes have a hard time identifying in perfumes. My favorite patch perfume is SL's Borneo, but I have to be in the right mood to wear it, or it will wear me! I followed with interest the PLAP features this summer. I love when the perfumers have a theme and come up with their own interpretations.
Let me also say I was once the lucky winner of some scent from Absinthe Dragonfly, who is listed above me here. They were wonderful and she was extremely generous in her gifting.
Thank you for a great draw!

Sep
03
2011
Alara
Alara

I love the earthy, grounding sensation I get from patchouli. It sets a solid foundation but also fires me up. Mentally and physically. It's sexy, thought provoking and you can't miss it once you've smelt it. I'm not always in a patchouli frame of mind, but when I am I appreciate it's unique quality and dimension it gives to a perfume. Patchoolz rulz!

Sep
03
2011
Bellatrix
Bellatrix

I followed entire journey and it was so interesting and complex. I like how judges test them without knowing who is the nose behind a scent. I wish there is more perfumes event like that. :)

Sep
03
2011
kimkim
kimkim

I am a life long lover of patchouli! From my deadhead days, to working on the cosmetic floor at Bloomingdale's!Patchouli oil is hands down the perfume i have been asked most "what are you wearing?" I Love it!

Sep
03
2011
cjj88
cjj88

This sounds wonderful!! I used to be a patch hater, but in the last 2-3 years, I've come to LOVE patchouli in perfume. I like the earthy quality it brings to a scent. I would love to be in the draw!

Sep
03
2011
Uco
Uco

Patchouli is tricky for me. I used to simply love all things patchouli, but I'm a little careful now. Some time ago at the Guerlain counter in NM SF, after sniffing my arm, the perfume mistress recommended Sous le Vent as the perfect scent for me. I tried it on and the perfume soon became a blah mix of citrus and patchouli. Since then it seems that any bit of patchouli gets amplified on my skin. I still love the scent on other people, but on me, I have to be extra careful... I would love to find the perfect patchouli scent from the collection!

Sep
02
2011
d.stramonium
d.stramonium

The PLAP was definitely a highlight in my summer as it was a thrill to follow and try some of the wonderful creations made by the participants.

I think patchouli can have many roles in perfume, from the shy accessory note to the brash and blaring "I'm patchouli, hear me roar" note. The perfumes from PLAP that I have tried were outstanding, and really showed skill and talent in bringing out the patchouli in the most flattering and varied ways! I am looking forward to trying the others in the series as time and budget allow!

Michael

Sep
02
2011
kimberlylizkennedy
kimberlylizkennedy

Patchooooleee, the smell of wet earth raising from the ground. Inviting, enticing...Memories of Tijuana and stick ball come to mind and all the joys of playing with the locals and my cousins. Patchouli centers the soul...And reminds people of the simple joys of earthiness that grounds us all.

Sep
02
2011
misscareyann
misscareyann

Patchouli, is a welcome added depth to a fragrance composition. It is instant character and attitude. I love the 'dirtiness' that it offers to any perfume that would otherwise smell too 'young' or 'innocent'. I love that people are passionate about their opinion of patchouli. Whether positive or negative, it always gets a strong reaction. That is the sign of a powerful fragrance note.

Sep
02
2011
actiasluna
actiasluna

A little before my time, a bunch of crazy hippie chicks (and their guys) assembled on a patch of land known now as Woodstock. The patchouli they wore was just as earthy, heady, and mesmerizing as the patchouli we wear in skillfully blended scents today... just a little more concentrated due to the population density of that place. I LOVE patch and would also really, really love a chance to see what our modern day patchouli artistes have created!

Sep
02
2011
Croneangel
Croneangel

Feelings and thoughts about Patchouli.....aaahhh, She is the Queen! Earthy, sensual, mesmerizing. She is my all time favorite among scents. If a fragrance has patchouli in it, I'm there....Inhaling like a Dyson! Have had a lifelong love affair with this stuff. I've gone through countless bottles of essential oil over the last, lets say forty three years.(I'm 52) I put it on almost everything. My art studio/jewelry workshop absolutely REEKS of it, and I LOVE it! Always spritz the bed linens with patchouli perfumes. Very relaxing, aids dreaming too. Among other things!
So thank you very much for the Summer of Patchouli Love!!! Keep it comin' folks!

Sep
02
2011
mister_chaz
mister_chaz

I have to be honest here - I have yet to find patchouli fragrance that I would truly love.

My first encounter with patchouli oils happened when I was a teenager: I was at the shop surfing through shelves filled with handmade oils. Then a lady in the shop recommend patchouli oil to me, saying that it would be the best for the intimate atmosphere as it acts as an aphrodisiac (she winked~). I took a sniff and I hated it. In the end, I ended up buying it, just out of curiosity, and even burned it at home later.

Well, to make the story short, that particular oil shop has closed, I moved to another country. I still have this little bottle of patchouli oil and I love it now. I wish there was a fragrance that would smell like it: earthy, but not skanky, slightly sweet and not medicinal. Thank you for this post, now I know where else to look! ;)

Cheers!

Sep
02
2011
Tama
Tama

Oh, yes, please enter me!

I have worn patchouli in one way or another since I was a teen, despite the associations with dope and b.o. I have been fortunate to sniff a couple of these PLAP scents and they have been amazing - I love real, good ole' dirty patch, not that cleaned up stuff I don't even recognize.

I work in a building that has a number of healing arts professionals and once in a while some patchouli blend of massage oil will be wafting around. So yummy, earthy, sexy.

Sep
02
2011
Datura5750
Datura5750

I love Patch, and even grow a plant to run my hand over now and then!
Thanks for a great contest

Sep
02
2011
ChouliGaloria
ChouliGaloria

When I get a whiff of a fresh patchouly note in perfumes I am immediately drawn into it and I usually will buy that perfume. I love it so! Patchouly smells good on most everyone and my nose finds it to be a sexy perfume note! Oh, la, la........

Sep
02
2011
Blissomagirl
Blissomagirl

I would adore the chance to sniff all the creations that were made! I looooooooooove Patchouli - especially on people. Not much will get me nuzzling up to someone quicker than Patchouli on skin. It is strong, individual, and will not be denied.
I love its strength and vibrationally consider it to be somewhat alike to myself. It is not for everyone but the people it is for adore it. :)

Sep
02
2011
zoka
zoka

Before I continue I have to disclose that I got as a gift Healing Balm from Skye Botantics that I love and that is awesome. I did not try Monica's perfumes but I may bet that they are awesome. Balm is done from fresh herbs and there is big difference compared to usual products I see on the market. This endorsement is not influenced by the fact that I got it as a gift but it is very touchy that Monica sent it to me when she found out on facebook that I was complaining about allergic rush that I had on my hands.

Sep
02
2011
AbsintheDragonfly
AbsintheDragonfly

This was so much fun to be a part of, and Monica was so generous to all of the participants!

Thank you Jodi, for your thoughtful and beautiful interview and review of the PLAP (Peace, Love and Patchouli) project :)

I'm glad you liked Queen of Punk!

Amanda

Sep
02
2011
Belil
Belil

Wow :) this all sounds so interesting. I wasn't a patchiouli lover before, on the contrary, it used to smell a bit mouldy to me. I'm glad I trained my taste :)
Now it's earthy touch gives me some dept and some of that warmth from the soil in perfumes I love.
Congrats to whoever wins this contest! He/she will be so lucky!

Sep
02
2011

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