Art Books Events Symrise Travels to Tasmania

Symrise Travels to Tasmania

01/27/12 13:07:32

By: Ida Meister



On Wednesday, January 25th, Symrise NYC kindly opened its doors, by invitation, to those of us who write—seekers all—allowing us to share in their Olfactive Odyssey to The Edge of the World: the expedition to Tasmania, a unique ecosystem and truly distant.
 

It is the custom for global perfumers to travel to various locations in search of inspiration: China and India, for example. The recent exploration of cleanliness—especially in terms of purity—led Senior Perfumer Kari Arienti, VP of Marketing Karen Solari, and Senior Graphic Artist David Castagneto to Cape Grim, on the northwestern tip of Tasmania, in the Southern Hemisphere.

The powerful, prevailing winds which blow persistently from the west at latitudes of 40 to 50 degrees south are known as the “roaring forties.”


The areas themselves at these latitudes share that same name, and this continuously windy condition is felt to be primarily responsible for the "cleanest air on earth" [the World Meteorological Association has tracked scientific readings at Cape Grim for thirty years].

Add to this our national obsession with cleanliness in North America, and the trend towards scents which are perceived as hygienic and pleasurable, plus a fascination with the exotic (we want to have our cake and eat it, too !)… Over 40 % of the island is treasured as a World Heritage Area, making it a rarely traveled and highly protected landscape, unspoiled and teeming with flora and fauna often unique unto itself.

TASMANIA was a fine place to start...


Nothing was to be removed from Tasmania—at any cost. No pleading, no bargaining; even the boots which these adventurers wore (which they attempted to send ahead to their Melbourne office, due to their sheer weight) were examined, had every trace of soil scraped from them  and that soil returned to its land of origin.
 

Symrise Senior Perfumer Kari Arienti sniffing pimilia on Cape Grim, Tasmania


PIMILIA: Kari is holding them up to her nose in the first photograph. So very small and SO highly fragrant—eugenol-rich, like night-scented stock flowers. Heady, heady nectar from such a weensy bloom!
 

Indigenous flora in Tasmania was mind-boggling; fortunately, the Symrise team were blessed with singularly helpful and knowledgeable guides who helped them locate many varieties of plant species. Twelve of these plant accords were created by Kari, with the aid of gas chromatography and headspace technology—AND BAGGIES! The thirteenth fragrance was the conundrum at the Cliff Face: how to capture the odor of “everything and nothing."

We smelled them all, with greatest delight, and here are the accords and my impressions of them. (Please bear in mind that our adventurers were very fortunate, despite the fact that it was then autumn in Tasmania; they still found a number of specimens to enjoy.) In all fairness, I’d like to add that I kept my booklet closed until the end, so I didn’t read the descriptors given, but smelled them as I found them.
 

PHOTO REPORTAGE by by David Castagneto
with scents reviews by Ida Meister:
 

Kari and Karen Solari (VP Marketing) walking through the Tarkine Rainforest (above)

The Edge of The World (above)


THE CLEANEST AIR ON THE EARTH - The Cliff Face was a very restricted area. Smelling the wind from as many directions as she could, it actually didn’t smell, if that can be said. For me, this accord was a masterful olfactory sleight of hand—at times brackish, musky ozonic, salty, floral. I can see how, when added to anything else, it would "create space" within a perfume and add an expansivity and lightness.
 

Kari on the Cliff Face, testing the winds to smell "the cleanest air" (above)

Red lichen (above)


RED LICHEN: under Aboriginal caves, amongst seashells and seaweed, Kari found this lichen on rocks. She scratched, she sniffed: to her nose, it smelled like a clean man—an ozonic, watery, musky smell. It was very popular with many sniffers, and while I appreciated the work it must have taken to re-create it , I thought I smelled lurking Ambroxan. Love lichen; Ambroxan, not so much ;-0
 

Huon Pine tree forest (above)


HUON PINE: apparently, segmented tracts of land are dedicated to this species; unable to access any to sample, one friend left a box of the sawdust. Dear Lord. This is as voluptuous as one could wish—round, full, soft, with a hint of coconuttiness I felt faintly palpable, fine as a quality sandalwood.
 

Lemon-scented boronia (above)


LEMON-SCENTED BORONIA: unlike the other boronias I’ve smelled, which were faintly leathery, apricot-y, and rich-rich-rich, this was a sweetly lemony and surprisingly delicate floral. Kari says there is a variant known as "stinky boronia." And it IS, apparently.
 


EDGE OF THE WORLD FLOWER: Karen Solani got to name this, because it didn’t seem to possess a name already. This tiny flower needed to be smelled VERY CAREFULLY—it was very prickly. With such strong tradewinds and their diminutive size, they had to smell POTENT in order to attract pollinators. I smelled a very luxurious, liliaceous creamy floral of surprising intensity.
 

Acacia (above)


ACACIA: there are several varieties of this flower in the world, but the Tasmanian one we sampled was known as "The Wattle," or silver wattle acacia. Unlike an acacia rife with indoles, this was a creamy-sweet honeyed floral with a distinctly pear-like nuance.
 

Pepperwood (above)


TASMANIAN PEPPERWOOD: I loved this bitingly green and aggressively spicy accord, which feels to the nose like a green pepper combined with black pepper and a kiss of pink pepper. Kari mentioned that it could be used in lieu of galbanum (I’m not certain that everyone liked this as much as I did).  Due to the cost of Eastern spices, the Tasmanians used this (and other herbs and shrubs) to flavor their local cheeses.
 

 Pepperwood (below)


CORREA REFLEXA: what a beautifully pungent, cassis leaf-like scent, evoking dill stalks.
 

Mint Tree Eucalyptus (above)


MINT TREE EUCALYPTUS: only ethereally eucalyptus to my nose, definitely spearmint-redolent, with the fruity kiss of cassis in there, somewhere.
 


PINK LEATHERWOOD: this was Kari’s "most fantasy" scent, in that the name led her to expect that it was going to be spectacular. Instead, she had to really smell everything around it to create a veil of suede-reminiscent pastiche. Bees like it for their honey.
 

Blackwood tree (above)


BLACKWOOD: the tree with a heart-shaped cross-section, it often has lichen or moss on its trunk, as it lives where the heavy dew never really dissipates. I found it to be a very coconut-laden soft cashmere-y wood, a comfort scent with a hint of sap.
 

 Blackwood tree trunk (below)


CELERY PINE: oh so sappy! Only faintly piney or evergreen-like to me, and the celery felt like leaf or stalk, not the seed—if that makes any sense at all.
 

The Milky Way (above)  

I am grateful to have been able to participate. It was clearly the best single hour spent in a very long time. Heartfelt thanks to all the good folk at Symrise who made us feel so welcome and shared this amazing experience.


Photos by David Castagneto

Author: Ida Meister (chayaruchama) has been an avid collector and sniffeuse for over 40 years. She adores consulting and collaborating with niche, budding,and independent perfumers . Her hypervigilant nose has  been of great help  in her profession as a neuroscience/oncology nurse, where she often smells fear, suffering, stress, and can identify most micro-organisms, medications, stages of disease, and has written about the amygdala.

As a Senior and Natural Perfumery Editor, Ida has participated in many blog events with natural and mixed media perfumers and other writers. She has also been a teacher, translator, opera singer, dancer, and a caterer.
 

 



librarygirl
librarygirl

I've always wanted to visit Tasmania. I've heard its a lot like NZ. I also live in the 'Roaring 40's'. To me it means extremely changeable weather, we can have four seasons in one day! Literally.
I live on the west coast of the North Island in New Zealand and can certainly testify to the pure air thought. If I step outside I can smell the salt of the sea, the soft incencsey scent of the native flax flowers, (one of my favourite scents, a perfume should be made from it), and pure ozone.
I love living here.

Feb
02
2012
scorpiosheep
scorpiosheep

I lived in Tasmania for 12 years (until 2 years ago) and can appreciate the impressions that the Symrise people discovered.

However, one of the features of Australian NATIVE plants (as opposed to introduced species) is that none of their flowers are scented. So what the people were smelling was either introduced species, or more likely the nectar, crushed leaves, or bark, sap or wood (in the case of the timbers). Let's hope they were inspired enough to go to some trouble to re-create them. And yes, it is the cleanest air in the world...I really miss it.

"Celery pine" is named for its leaf habit, sprouting leaves resembling celery tops from its highest limbs. It is called "celery top pine" for this reason and not because it smells like celery.

Jan
30
2012
Gojira
Gojira

Ida, excellent excellent report. Really enjoyed reading it.

Jan
30
2012
Annemarie
Annemarie

Lovely piece, thanks. Sorry to be pedantic, but Tasmania is distant compared to - what? If Tasmania is 'the edge of the world', where's the centre? New York? Sorry, but no. The word is round. 'Centre' and 'edge' are all a matter of perspective.

No prizes for guessing that I grew up in Tasmania! I don't live there any more, but it is the centre of my world. Likewise for the indigenous people of Tasmania.

Okay, I know I'm being over-serious! Thanks again.

Jan
29
2012
pumpkintime
pumpkintime

Great to read of the care taken to protect precious Tasmanian flora, and equally good to see Symrise rising to the challenge of recreating scents/scent impressions without doing any harm to their source materials.

I've always wanted to visit New Zealand and Tasmania, simply to see what Life is like on the other side of the world; this article encourages me to save up somehow and go there as soon as I can!

Jan
28
2012
HelenCQ
HelenCQ

thank you for this great article. So beautifully written and illustrated.

Can you share with us more what the Symrise team will do with their findings? Will they create some new ingredients, components, accords based on their findings?

While i love exotic scents, i also do not like the idea that we smell something nice in nature, the next thing then is to cut the plants for our pleasure. Wonder what fragrance houses do when they encounter such an issue.

Jan
28
2012
civava
civava

I can only wish to be there. Very nice article and especially description of scents.

Jan
28
2012
mmahboubian
mmahboubian

This has been one of the most beautiful pieces I've read in a long time. Not only do I LOVE plants, I adore reading someone else's impressions that have been written with such eloquence. I'm off to smell some celery and then book a trip to Tasmania!

Jan
27
2012
chayaruchama
chayaruchama

I'm happy to share what I learned !!!
Thanks for the reading ;-0

The folks at Symrise were SO gracious.

Jan
27
2012
JoAnne Bassett
JoAnne Bassett

Great and informative article Ida. Very interesting...Lovely photos and scent descriptions.
Beautiful! Thank You.

Jan
27
2012
gazelle
gazelle

Beautiful, beautiful photos. Make me want to board the next plane to points south. Boronia, ummmm. Thanks for sharing.

Jan
27
2012
NebraskaLovesScent
NebraskaLovesScent

Ida, you have such a talent for describing in concrete terms these ethereal and unusual things that you smelled. Thank you for sharing it with us! :-)

Jan
27
2012
zoka
zoka

Articles like this simply evoke some joy and happiness... our planet is so beautiful place and I love learning more about our home. It is very well written article (thanks Ida!) and illustrations are stunning! Thanks Symrise for invitation and sharing this with us.

Jan
27
2012
jeca
jeca

What a beautiful place! Thank you Ida and Symrise for this experience. And I am so glad they use modern methods without making any harm to all this beauty. Imagine if we immediately start to cut/distill these trees and flowers. This is why I believe in chemistry and technology, and not a huge fan of natural extracting.

Jan
27
2012

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