Tauer Perfumes Une Rose Chypree

As Juliet so artfully queried “What’s in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet.” There are many rose named scents to be sniffed but what is left to the artist to decide is whether to create a simulacrum of a rose or create something that smells as sweet but isn’t necessarily a rose.

The gold standard of rose scents is Guerlain Nahema and what is so brilliant about that scent is the life-like rose that is present without using any natural source of rose and instead creating the rose accord via a combination of notes. A different kind of brilliance is on display by Andy Tauer in his 2009 release for Tauer Perfumes, Une Rose Chypree. His choice is to take two different sources of natural rose and use them to create a rose that doesn’t exist in any garden I’m aware of. This creates a unique fragrance that Juliet would have trouble recognizing as a rose; but she would enjoy wearing, because it smells so good.

Mr. Tauer uses a combination of rose absolute and a steam-distillation of rose petals. I was curious about the difference in quality of these two sources and in an e-mail Mr. Tauer explained the qualities both bring to Une Rose Chypree:

“The absolute has a somewhat shorter longevity. Beyond the volatility difference, you have of course a totally different scent profile, as the two concentration processes (steam distillation versus solvent extraction) are leading to quite different mixes of molecules. Steam distillation is a harsh process that also destroys and modifies a lot of scent molecules. What you end up with after the steam distillation is a little bit like the concentration of all the spicy parts of the rose petals. Neither the absolute nor the steam distilled oil are truly mirroring the natural rose scent. When combining them, you may get a touch closer to reality.

My goal, on the other hand, was never to come to a close copy of a natural rose flower. There is for me no reason to do so. But to take a rose, and bring it into a new context, underlining the spicy tones, setting a dark background for a gleaming flower: That’s more what I had in mind.”

It is that quality of the steam-distillation that makes Une Rose Chypree such a unique scent and as Mr. Tauer explains sets a beautiful spicy contrast to the chypre base of this.

The top of Une Rose Chypree is all about the rose absolute and it is the rose I am most familiar with from other fragrances. It is paired with a rich citrus triad of clementine, lemon and bergamot. This beginning is lush and if the scent just relaxed into the rose it would be beautiful on its own.

Instead this is where the choice to use the steam-distilled rose creates a contrast to the opulent rose at the top. This is that hint of spice you get when smelling a fresh rose magnified many times. It is recognizably rose but a spicy rose that I have never encountered in a fragrance before. Here Mr. Tauer makes a smart choice by pairing cinnamon with this spicy rose and the cinnamon is a perfect complement as it enhances the spice and sharpens it at the same time.

All of these rose acrobatics set the stage for the chypre base and it is a classic chypre base of oakmoss, labdanum, vetiver, and patchouli. This is a real chypre base because Mr. Tauer can use oakmoss without fear of the IFRA and it gives Une Rose Chypree the feel of a vintage perfume. Really, the whole development of Une Rose Chypree feels like the best of the Jean Patou florals.

I am convinced if I placed Une Rose Chypree next to some of those classics like L’Heure Attendue or Adieu Sagesse that it would seem like part of that grand perfume-making tradition. That being said, it means Une Rose Chypree is a bold scent like those scents and when wearing it a light hand is necessary as too much would be overwhelming.

Une Rose Chypree is incredibly long lasting and has above average sillage in keeping with its feel of a vintage throwback. Une Rose Chypree is the first in a line of perfumes for Tauer Perfumes called Memorables. According to Mr. Tauer we will be getting one of these every year. Based on Une Rose Chypree I hope they all continue to hold to the grand tradition begun here, as this fragrance is certainly memorable for me.
 

Please read Exclusive Interview with Andy Tauer

You can purchase a sample (CHF 4) from Andy Tauer site

Images: Andy Tauer, space dolphin, h2o appleday