Fragrance Reviews

The Different Company Sublime Balkiss

07/11/09 09:53:03

By: Michelyn Camen

The Different Company Sublime Balkiss, created by perfumer Celine Ellena, is a surprising fragrance, with a familiar touch to it. It is named for Balkis, aka the Queen of Sheba, (the Ethiopian Queen and the 'wife' of King Solomon of Israel) and is a modern chypre fragrance without oakmoss (real or synthetic) or animal-derived raw materials.

I find this fragrance to be her best work for the Different Company since Sel a Vetiver. It is innovative and since I love Oakmoss, I adore this fragrance. But for those of you who find oakmoss and traditional Chypres too heavy on your skin, this perfume is a fine way to try a ‘chypre’ without the extreme moss accords.

In another interesting ‘twist, Ms. Ellena features two kinds of patchouli: the traditional essence, and a modified modern patchouli which emphasizes the cocoa powder note; this fragrance borders on the woody/fruit category.

Sublime Balkiss open with bergamot, blueberry, blackcurrant, which dominate throughout the composition. Heart notes of Damascus Rose, Lilac, Violet and Rose and the unexpected note of heather are grounded by the two types of Patchouli which bring forth a Cocoa accord. The drydown is chocolate powder and subtlety fruity.

On two of my testers, the Egyptian iris and heather notes were especially prominent. Lucky testers!

Sublime Balkiss is a wonderfully feminine scent and surprising soft, great for everyday wear with very good sillage.

Images: The Different Company, wmswels.com

Michelyn Camen is New York City based fragrance writer and specialist. Michelyn is a Senior Contributor for Fragrantica. In addition, she is the Fragrance editor for www.fashiontribes.com, a top ten beauty blog, and the Fragrance Columnist/Diversions for http://www.uptownsocial.net.

Michelyn is the former Senior Contributing Writer for Sniffapalooza Magazine, New in Niche Columnist for Basenotes and Editorial Director/Fragrance Editor for Beauty News NYC & LA

Ms. Camen is the owner of Fifthsense N.Y.C. which provides personalized fragrance consultations based on body chemistry, fashion and lifestyle and consults for luxury, media and fragrance companies.

CourtrightHer

Upon reading that it has two kinds of patchouli I was intrigued (does that makes me a 60's baby?). Add in the cocoa powder note and I'm in! I suppose I might have to acquire it for my lady.
Sounds exquisite. Thank you for your excellent review!

Jul
15
2009

Somerville Metro Man

I have to say that I've only tried a spray of The Different Company scents here and there when testing at my local Barney's and so far I've been undewhelmed by the line. Based on Michelyn's description I'm not going to be surprised if this one keeps the losing streak intact.

Jul
14
2009

danna

I don't like mossy chypres, and i am so jealous of women who can wear mitsouko and pull it off!!! so I am going to give this a try. it sounds woody but not too much so. I love patchouly and didn't know there were two different varieties. I do like many of Celine Elena's perfumes for other companies. The review was very well written.

Jul
11
2009

flittersniffer

I tried this recently (admittedly on a "high occupancy" forearm), and found it too sweet and fruity. I am somewhat embarrassed to admit I actually thought it was a fruity floral, which would be kind of ironic, coming from The Different Company. I should probably give it another spin. Now I do love PG Brulure de Rose, which also has rose and cocoa powder, but here I got mainly fruit. And the sorts of fruits I also avoid in yoghurts, because the colour is either too blue or too red!

Jul
11
2009

Prince Barry

It sounds amazing. I wonder if Patricia de Nicolai will complain about the name, although her scent called Balkis, only had one 'S' at the end. Bravo Michelyn!

Jul
11
2009