The Home Where Fragrances Live

It is already known that a scent preserves and evokes memories, but just like memories it is ephemeral and incorporeal, and thus besides all its power it can not defy the influence of time.

Fragrances, just like pieces of art and symbols of tastes of generations, are also susceptible to the influence of time. You have probably at some point witnessed an inglorious ending of a fragrance in your own collection, or even in a shop where it simply got spoiled due to either bad quality or lifetime expiry.

The durability time of a fragrance is not the same for all fragrances, it depends on its quality and the storage conditions (read more in Tips). After the fragrance is opened, its lasting time is shortened to approximately one year (two years maximum); however this is only relevant for the new mass production fragrances. Our mothers' and grandmothers' perfumes (even the ones that are opened) are still enchanting us with their original scents. No wonder that in some languages 'old' is a synonym for 'good'.

Regardless of quality, the fragrances of the past centuries are disappearing together with human generations. Most of them we will never have a chance to smell and experience, and it is a sad fact even for a perfumer. Therefore the renowned perfumers of the association Société Française des Parfumeurs, among which Jean Kerleo, have decided to establish a real museum of fragrances – Osmotheque.

Osmotheque is a museum and a lab in which both fragrances and their formulas are stored and old fragrances are reconstructed. Osmotheque was opened on April 26, 1990 and is placed in Versailles as a part of the perfumery school (ISIPICA). It is lead by Jean Kerleo, the perfumer who has devoted 30 years of his life to the Jean Patou house (1967 – 1998).

The aim of Osmotheque is not only to preserve the masterpieces, but also to regenerate the famous fragrances of the past times. Thanks to research the Osmotheque experts have reconstructed a fragrant crème from the 1st century AD (according to the formula provided in the treatise of Plinius the Older), aromatic disinfectant L'Eau de la Reine de Hongrie of the 14th century, and cologne water used by Napoleon (according to his servant's notes). But, the most of their time and efforts the Osmotheque experts have devoted to reconstruction of the famous fragrances of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century of the houses of F.Millot, Coty, Houbigant, Les Parfums de Rosine and many others.

How fragrances are preserved in Osmotheque? They are kept in a special room in a cellar, stored at the temperature of 12°C in containers priory treated with argon, the gas that removes oxygen. Each of the perfume bottles is numbered.

Osmotheque cooperates with perfume houses, and accepts fragrances, and some times even formulas, for storage and preservation. Each month the consultation team consisting of renowned perfumers is classifying new fragrances and quarterly reports on the newly stored fragrances.

Osmotheque started with approximately 400 fragrances and at the moment its collection counts over 1.800 fragrances, mostly French. Other countries are represented with several dozens of fragrances: approximately 70 American, around 50 Italian, the same number of Russian; Japan, Spain and Germany have stored 40 fragrances each. Other countries (not all, of course) are represented with few fragrances only.

Osmotheque organizes excursions and seminars during which participants, besides learning about history and production of perfumes, have an opportunity to smell the masterpieces of the perfume art.

The classified list of fragrances at Osmotheque, information on seminars and events can be checked at the Osmotheque web site.
Osmotheque contact information
(Information source – osmotheque.fr, parfumeur-createur.com, Arbat Prestige magazine)

Author: Elena Knežević (jeca)
Fragrantica Member