Interviews

The House of Caron: Love, War and Perfume

12/13/09 20:21:08

By: Michelyn Camen

It has become trendy to hire an in-house perfumer these days. But it was the House of Caron who from its inception is one of the rare companies that has always employed an in-house “nose.” From Ernest Daltroff, to Richard Fraysse, the current “nose,” Caron perfumes embodies an olfactive heritage that is almost unequaled in the industry. Romain Ales, the president of the House of Caron, shares historical facts and his vision on the future of the House of Caron.

What is the history behind the Founder of the House of Caron, Ernest Daltroff and his longtime nose Felicie Vanpouille?

Mr. Ernest Daltroff, a young man enraptured with a dream inspired by the delicate act of his mother applying her favorite fragrance. She would gently dab perfume behind her ears, careful to only apply a dash at the nape of her neck, as in that era it was considered poor form for a lady’s scent to linger. Moved by the image, Daltroff aspired to become a great creator of perfumes, as he hoped women would forever speak of his concoctions with envy.

His aspirations became reality when he created the House of Caron, where his philosophy in typical French fashion is simply about men, women and that elusive thing called love. Ernest was joined by Felicie Vanpouille. Ernest was the nose, Felicie initially was a dressmaker whose ambition led her to leave her modest family in Arras and set up business catering to the whims and fancies of Parisians.

In 1907, Ernest asks for her advice on the perfumes and their presentation. As time goes by, Felicie becomes the “couturier” of perfumes, from bottle to box. They set up home on the boulevard Pereire. By 1916 the 42 yr old Felicie secretly hoped to marry Ernest, the man she had shared her life with for 10 yrs. Ernest was aware but was too absorbed by success and spent his time between the lab and his business travels. However, he created a fine, tinted and perfumed powder and gave it the name N’aimez que moi where Felicie saw the answer to her questions. The perfume of the same name was created in 1917.

What were some of the fragrances they created together and what were the inspirations behind them?

They introduced innovative, luxurious fragrances which suit each era, such as N’Aimez que Moi (1916), Bellodgia (1927), and legendary Pour Un Homme (1934.) Composed of unique blends of pure, rare essences, the fragrances are presented in the most precious crystal flacons by Baccarat. With chic and original ornamentation, including delicate lace collars, grosgrain ribbon and gold cording, the unique fountains offered the sumptuous joy of filling the bottle directly from the tap, an intimate act for very precious scents.

When Daltroff fled France, during World War II, was it because he was Jewish? Did Vanpouille leave with him? Did he return to France after the war?

Persecution against the Jews was at its height and the firm was in danger as one of the owners was Jewish. Ernest was then aged 74, weak and in ill-health, and fled to NY in November 1940.

What happened to Caron when Ernest fled the company?

Felicie remained alone at the head of Caron struggling to protect the company from being confiscated and closed down. Luckily the case was in the hands of a sympathizing Francophile German officer, Walter Hummelsheim, who understood Felicie’s predicament and the dangerous situation Caron was in. As long as he was in charge of the case, confiscating the company was postponed. There was however, a solution, appointing a temporary manager from “Aryan” descent.

Felicie panics and flees to the free zone. In Paris Suzanne Saulnier ran the company and coordinated Asnieres and Montauban on her own. The company is in jeopardy. Walter is re-called to Germany. Felicie, recovering from a severe leg fracture, is in constant communication with Suzanne and applies for an “Ausweis” in view of returning to Paris asap. End of Dec. 1940 she arrives in Paris with her “Ausweis” and a refugee status. She returned to her suite at the Ritz and continued her eternal discussions with French authorities concerning the nomination of an “Aryan” manager. Communication with NY had broken down and on Feb. 13 ,1941 the sad news of Ernest’s death came. He had passed away a few days earlier, depressed and weak from illness.

One of the greatest moments of every immigrant is seeing the Statue of Liberty…. Was there ever a fragrance created to commemorate his newfound haven in America?

Ernest fled to America to escape the threat and chaos of war. Approaching Ellis Island, his eyes fell upon the majestic splendor and imposing beauty of the Statue of Liberty, welcoming him to the safe haven of America. Deeply moved, he promised to create a perfume to commemorate this moment… 60 years later; Lady Caron (2000) was introduced.
   
The company has had several owners, prior to Patrick Ales who bought the company 12 years ago, and his predecessors Jean Paul Elkann, and Henry Bernard. What are the existing fragrances that were created under their ownership, which is from 1961-1997?

Aimez Moi, Fleur de Rocaille, Nocturnes, Parfum Sacre, Infini, Le 3eme, Yatagan  

What are the core values of Caron that were established in 1904, that remain in 2009?

Reference to the past is a value that opens the way to modernity, a passion for conquest that constitutes the true essence of Caron. Over the century +, the passing years imposed many changes but through it all Caron never ceased to reinvent its future. The arrows of time, which pointed to a future industrialization and mass markets, never affected Caron.

From Ernest Daltroff to current owner, Patrick Ales, the lifeline of Caron perfumes what never ceases is the imagination. As women become more and more present in the corporate world, run companies, sign contracts, and skip through time zones with ease, they still know how to pause to choose their perfume. Therefore as fashion for form or color evolves, style alone still remains, the style bearing the olfactory mark of Caron.

My favorite Caron fragrance is Montaigne. What inspired this perfume and who was the nose behind it?

Montaigne was initially introduced in 1986-1987 as a confidential boutique exclusive. It is named after the Caron boutique address in Paris, located in Avenue Montaigne, and a street noted for its elegance and chic passers-by. It was so far available in pure extract and eau de toilette concentrations. Caron decided to re-launch Montaigne (with the nose: Richard Fraysse) and with the support of a wider distribution network to honor its success while introducing a brand new concentration, the eau de parfum, and retiring the eau de toilette concentration.

Where are Caron fragrances created?
Always, from the beginning, at our laboratories in France.

What are the “urn” fragrances? What makes them special?

Les Fontaines Baccarat: they are Caron’s haute couture fragrances, revived some of its finest compositions of extracts in their legendary Baccarat crystal fountains. With the act of filling the perfume bottle at the fountain, the special heritages of these perfumes live on. The perfumes are collected from the little bronze taps into the most wonderful bottles of all sizes, finished with an old world style golden braid.

The two most recognized are Tabac Blond which was created in 1919 as an homage to women’s liberation, and N’aimez Que Moi (1916) a flowered Chypre that was created to boost the morale of the troops and their “Penelopes,” the women who waited for their soldiers to return. Caron introduced this fragrance - “Don’t love anyone but me” – as a forget-me-not.  

 

In addition there is Acacias, En Avion which was inspired by Amelia Earhart; Les Pois de Senteur, which to this day there is still no natural extract of Sweet Pea available on the market, so Caron recreated the scent with a generous bouquet of rose, hyacinth, cyclamen combined with jasmine, lilac and lily of the valley on a warm and woody base of lime, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, and musk;

Narcisse Noir which was created in 1911 in honor of the consecration of the House of Caron; Or et Noir an opulent yet complex fragrance was concocted with a sensual base of rose sprinkled with geranium, lilac, carnation, and deepened with oak moss; Rose; Tubéreuse which was created in 2003, Alpona, created in memory of the French Alps, and the first fragrance to combine flowers with grapefruit;

Farnesiana, a mimosa-based perfume with fruity accords; Poivre which was one of the first unisex perfumes and created in 1954; French Cancan, which was an ode to America and evokes Paris. It was the first of Caron’s perfumes to be geared to the American market.

What distinguishes Caron from other houses that have a long history and a past heritage?

Caron, rather than diversify, chose to focus on its know-how: the perfume and the beautiful scented face powder that has been just as much of our legacy as the perfumes.

All our fragrances are formulated with raw materials of the highest quality and most of our suppliers have not changed. We own the formula for all our fragrances, buy direct all components and often are responsible for their distillation.

Regarding the powder, it is manufactured on the same machine for almost a century, and any other powder on the market today can't match its fine grain. The tradition is a fundamental value that enabled Caron to survive through the decades and retain its position as a House of Haute Parfumerie.

How does Caron stay relevant, yet not lose its time-honored traditions?

Innovation and forward thinking have always been at the heart of the creations of Caron House. The objective of Ernest and Félicie was revolutionary, both olfactively and working and using unexpected notes that would have commercial appeal (today it’s called marketing!)

Félicie quickly grasped the significance of a fragrance’s name and the importance of the design of a bottle. Therefore, all our fragrances have evocative names which were most often associated with major events of the era, such as Tabac Blond (emancipation of women after the 1st World War), En Avion (By plane, first aerial feats)....

Tradition is also a core driver of the House of Caron, expressed especially through the choice of raw materials and the recovery of the craft (eg. the exploitation of creations of French craftsmen who make unique pieces for Caron sold in our boutiques, but also the recovery of a certain expertise, such as gold thread on the vials and the “baudruchage," wrapping a silken thread around the neck of the bottle. Much of this expertise is forgotten now, but Caron employs specialists to ensure we carry this beautiful art into the future.

Who is your nose Richard Fraysse? Tell us of his background, what inspires his work and which fragrances has he created?

Richard is the son of the renowned nose André Fraysse, who created many fragrances for Lanvin including the iconic Arpege. For Richard, each fragrance triggers a sensation, then an emotion.

A meeting with Richard Fraysse is always intriguing, as he has the ability to incorporate each new scent into what is an olfactory experience. He’s the equivalent to an extraordinary master “scent file,” an ever-evolving living repertoire. In the same way that an accumulation of notes cannot be likened to music, an accumulation of scents can never constitute a perfume.

In fact, although Richard Fraysse uses his nose as a tool, an instrument for control and analysis, it is of course his brain that identifies and classifies various components.

Bulgarian roses, which enter into the majority of Caron perfume compositions, must be grown with the same constancy, in the same type of soil. Jasmine and mimosa, orange blossom and ylang ylang, fragrances so fine and varied, give the perfumer all he needs for his imagination to take flight. Other sources feed the inspiration of Richard Fraysse. Wood, bark and moss provide another range of components; herbs and spices lend their own special notes; fruit from the Hesperides range (primarily citrus) round off the use of what the Earth offers.

Perfumes created by Richard Fraysse include:

Caron Impact Pour Un Homme (2005),  Caron L’Anarchiste (2000),  Caron Lady Caron (2000),  Caron Miss Rocaille (2004),  Caron Pour une Femme (reformulation),  Caron Tubereuse (2003), Les plus Belles Lavandes de Caron (2009).  

How is Caron moving into the 21st century, and what can we expect for 2010?

It’s an exciting time for Caron. We are working with a new muse for the House of Caron. Her name is Luisa Ranieri and she played “La Callas.” She is divine, tender, intense, and subtle. She is a woman and really embodies our scent Parfum Sacre.

In 2010 we were inspired by the colors of purple and gold and created the following products:

1. Purple and gold purse spray. A luxurious 20ml spray in a lacquered, iridescent, amethyst-colored bottle, adorned with Swarovski crystals, with a 50ml refillable Parfum Sacre EDP and a golden gilt funnel.
2. Parfum Sacre Eau de Parfum Intense, in a 30ml spray.
3. Brume Sacree is a lightly scented hair mist to protect hair from dryness and against environmental stresses.

Images: eschipul, PaulS,

Michelyn Camen is a New York City based writer and consultant who is a former Brandweek Marketer of the Year and Ad Age 100 recipient. She slipped off her power suit to pursue her passion for beauty and fragrance. Camen is a fragrance specialist and the owner of FifthSense N.Y.C., where she consults for niche luxury, fashion, beauty and fragrance companies.

She is the Editor-at-Large www.fashiontribes.com, a top ten fashion e-zine and the Fragrance Editor for UptownSocial.net. Michelyn is the former Senior Contributing Writer for Sniffapalooza Magazine, the former New in Niche Columnist for Basenotes and was the Editorial Director for Beauty News NYC & LA. Email her at fifthsensenyc@aol.com

systeme_d

A very timely article. My thanks to its author. Caron is such a venerable institution, yet still vibrant and contemporary.

I recently purchased Aimez-Moi and I have long desired to try N'aimez Que Moi. Both have the luscious violet and sandalwood notes I love so much. But alas, I no longer live in New York City, and do not have ready access to the urn fragrances.

However, since I certainly plan to sample the new Parfum Sacre EdP Intense, which I believe will be more readily available, I will satisfy myself with that for now!

May
18
2010

scentual healing

What an amazing interview.... It is really cool to learn what is coming out before everyone. I want the new parfum sacre

May
18
2010

memechose

thank you , and based on this article i bought the powder . this si magnificent and eevry woman should own . it is not exspenve a very large amount is $45 usd.

Jan
04
2010

CourtrightHer

What an delicious interview! So much to digest, and what a feast! Such a grand House and the way you you bring it to life (love the title) is outstandsing.

How are you going to top this interview (I have no doubt you will!)?

Bravo Michelyn!

Jan
03
2009

memechose

NEW INFORMATION FROM CARON

WHERE DI THE NAME CARON COMR FROM

Emilia, was the name of the company intially. Ernest refused to use his own name. Instead the he searched for a very French name that can be easily pronounced in English, Spanish or Italian..an easily remembered name of one of 2 syllables.

At the time the circus and its clowns, illusionists and acrobats fascinated Paris. The name of one well-known acrobat, Caron, famous for his perious exploits held the attention of Ernest Daltroff.

The elegance of these 2 syllables haunted Ernest and when he chanced upon a perfumery under the name of Anne-Marie Caron, 20 rue de Rossini in Paris, he and his friend Kahann made an offer for the business and the name Caron
THE HOUSE OF CARON THANKS YOU FOR YOUR KIND COMMENTS

Dec
21
2009

gigimeansgood

This article was a visual and informational feast! I loved it. I thought I knew a little bit about the house of Caron but what an amazing story they have to tell and it is told well!

I hope that one day you put together a book of these intrviews so that anyone who is interested will have them at their fingertips to linger over with a cup of coffee ....or a snifter of cognac as the case may be.
Gigi

Dec
21
2009

she loves perfumes

every interview I read on Fragrantica is like no other. I read this itnerview three times and still will re read it. I am going to NYC in 2 weeks to see family and will be sure to check out the face powder, and replenish my tabac blonde.

Dec
20
2009

perfumista diva

A fascintaing interview.

I live and die by the face powder. I bought it in NYC at their store on madison avenue one year and it is like no other... really it is exquisite without being pricey. there is a feather down puff and it is the best powder on the market.

I do love Parfume de sacre and wear it often. I am looking forward to the new purple packaging and edp intense.

Dec
19
2009

Leah Z

Bellodgia was my first serious perfume love. How great and sad that the history of the house and its founders is as grand and epic as the perfumes themselves.

Dec
18
2009

LolaLuna

Oh my. Just finish reading this article. My eyes watered, my chest is heaving with emotion . It's just that, in this era of plastic knobs and electric brooms, it is so refreshing to remember the originl makings of great art. Perfume, the ultimate creation for pleasure of the olfatory sense. The ritual, pure, timeless... Thank you Michelyn.

Dec
17
2009

cynthia44

just a wonderful interview, the story behind the Caron fragrances and of course the fragrances themselves. I have always loved the powders; they remind me of Paris.My daughter wears aimez-moi.. so wonderful on a young woman.... thank you again Michelyn and Romain

Dec
16
2009

VeroniqueLeon

Thank you for a wonderful and very interesting interview.I really enjoyed reading it.

Dec
16
2009

Keiko Meecheri

Thank you Michelyn for enlightening us on the beautiful and moving story on the House of Caron.

Dec
16
2009

dawnkana

Thank you Michelyn for properly introducing me to Caron through this article.

I now want to explore the scents of this house. I have never been interested until this moment. Besides the scents, I am especially interested in the face powder. I have heard tremendously good things about it.

Thank you for writing about Caron.

~Dawn

Dec
16
2009

ElenaLondon

Thank you for a very interesting article.
Just to add to previous comments, Caron can be found in "Fortnum & Mason" in London.

Dec
16
2009

Andy Austin

I have not tried any Caron fragrances, but I will take Mark's suggestions..and got to neiman's wjere they carry them But as far as what my wife will receieve under the tree this year... Lady caron... a reminder of how great this country is that the statue of liberty is a symbol of who we are It is a sad story, but it does make me proud to be an American, that our country welcomes all those who are escaping persecution. God bless you Michelyn for this story.God bless America

Dec
16
2009

zoka

This story is a very good for a movie. I like it very much.

Thanks to The House of Caron and Romain Ales for such an interesting story.

Michelyn good job as always.

Dec
15
2009

Scentabulous

This story has the mark of a screenplay on it ... A story that needs telling.

Dec
15
2009

tenderblossoms

i dont think I have read such a beautiful interview. I cried at the story of Ernest and felicie. Out of hate and terror, such beauty was created, I wear lady caron and now it takes on new signifcance for me... Tearfully yours tenderblossoms

Dec
15
2009

jeca

Thank you Michelyn for including more facts about Caron.

Dear friends, you can now read more detailed story of Caron before and after war, Michelyn added more interesting facts.

Dec
15
2009

memechose

re=read this story.... unique to fragranrica

Dec
15
2009

viviennecarey

This is such an absorbing story. I have always loved Caron - my favourite perfume being Nocturnes. It is fascinating to now know the background.
Michelyn, beautifully written - thank you.

Dec
15
2009

Sonsa Rae

Thank you for sharing the history of the House of Caron with us, Michelyn! The Caron advertisements have always been of particular interest to me, with my background in advertising and marketing.

My favorite Caron fragrance, years ago, was Narcisse Noir. Neroli and Sandalwood marry so incredibly well, in my opinion.

I lost track of Caron when I. Magnin's in San Francisco's Union Square closed; which had a beautiful Caron boutique.

I would love to try one of their newer scents; the Les Plus Belles Lavandes in particular. You can hardly go wrong with a blend of Vanilla, Amber and Musk!

Dec
14
2009

Kathryn

The bittersweet history of the house of Caron sheds quite a bit of light on the the depth of emotion one feels in classic Caron scents. Thank you for this, Michelyn!

Of the more modern Caron fragrances, my favorite is Parfum Sacre. I wish it was still available in extrait form, but I am very much looking forward to trying the new edp intense.

Dec
14
2009

gblue

Thanks for the fascinating history lesson, Michelyn! I had no idea of all the tragic history.

I'm a huge fan of Yatagan, even if I feel like it wears me. And 3me Homme is another fabulous masculine. I'm yet to try any of the famous feminines- Caron is woefully elusive here in the UK. Perhaps when I finally open my own shop I will stock Caron ;)

Dec
14
2009

Somerville Metro Man

I love the Caron masculine fragrances of pour Un homme, Le 3me Homme, Yatagan and L'Anarchiste.
I think there are very few Houses that can offer this spread of unique masculine fragrances.
I really enjoy reading about the history of these grand Houses, beautifully done Michelyn!

Dec
14
2009

flittersniffer

I have yet to find a Caron that really works for me, but this article has inspired me to look into the line again!

Dec
14
2009

gknight

Another great interview Michelyn! Thank you Romain for taking us on such a wonderful journey through the history of this highly esteeemed house of fragrance!

Dec
14
2009

DallasArtsSalon

Another wonderful story - you always make fragrances come to life by weaving the human story. Thank you!

Dec
14
2009

jeca

Dear Kterhark, officially they have a boutique only in NY, but I found Caron in Beauty Encounter on the net. ;o)

After reading I also miss some fragrances by Caron, and already waiting for one of them to come, thank you Michelyn!

Dec
14
2009

chayaruchama

It is always a treat to discover what new delights unfold in your interviews !

Caron, along w/ Guerlain- was a 'gateway drug' for me, long before puberty.

I am so proud of my countrymen who valiantly managed to create beauty in the face of adversity- there are so many, and many again- in the Perfumed World .

Thank you for your inclusive labors !

Dec
14
2009

danna

such a beautiful story of the house. I love the history behind this brand. The story of The founder is so sad.I wear narcisse noir, and love it... thank you once Michelyn again for bringing so much that was hidden to light

Dec
14
2009

Flora55

Wonderful interview, and of course the story of the House of Caron is so fascinating and sad.

I love Caron fragrances so much, but I have only smelled a sample of one of the urn perfumes - Tubereuse, which is simply divine. I would love to visit one of the boutiques and try Narcisse Blanc, Or et Noir and all the others.

Two of my favorites among the "regular" Carons are the fabulous Parfum Sacre and Lady Caron - the latter does not seem to get much respect and I don't know why,I think it's a masterpiece in its own gentle way.

I REALLY want to try that Parfum Sacre EDP Intense when it comes out!

Flora (Donna)

Dec
13
2009

Wim Janssens

Caron, love it. One of the houses I keep on visiting when I am in Paris. It's a fabulous French House with a very high quality of creations and "Poudres".

I can't survive a day without the use of their powders! They are so silky and velvety, they make me smile.

Thank you again, my dear Mentor ^^ to provide us all with such a stunning and beautiful article and interview!

You told me a lot now, that I already was asking by myself, but I did not had any answers.

Caron is Faboulous. If you are in Paris, you must visit them!

Michelyn my dear friend, how do you put so much emotion into your writing? It's beautiful, almost makes you cry.

With love,

Your greatful and honourd pupil! :)

Wim x

Dec
13
2009

Kterhark

How timely... I've recently fallen head over heels in love with Or et Noir and N'aimez que moi, and i"ve yet to sample the remaining urn fragrances. These scents are STUNNING!!! My only complaint, and I"ll have to reread the article becaues I"m very tired right now and maybe I missed it, is that the urn fragrances are too hard to get. Are they really just in NY? Any plans for a San Francisco location? Western gals like perfume too!

Dec
13
2009