Interviews

The Rising Star: Interview with Perfumer Yann Vasnier

11/03/09 09:30:57

By: Michelyn Camen

If there is one young perfumer to watch, it’s the extremely gifted Yann Vasnier, a recipient of the International Young Perfumer Award, who is responsible for commercial successes such as Lola by Marc Jacobs, and cult favorites for Comme des Garcons (where he studied with Françoise Caron), Divine, Keiko Mecheri and Parfums DelRae, Keiko Mecheri Gourmandises, Le Labo. He is also the perfumer I am counting on taking me to the famous BOOM BOOM ROOM, the trendiest nightspot in NYC.

Comme des Garcons series 2, Red: Rose (2001, with Françoise Caron),
Le Labo Aldehyde 44 (2006),  Marc Jacobs Fig Splash (2008),  Marc Jacobs Lola (2009, with Calice Becker),  Parfums Delrae Mythique (2009),  Sarah Jessica Parker The Lovely Collection: Endless (2008), Avon Midnight for Men in 2006,  Baby Phat Fabulosity (2008),  Cerruti 1881 Collection (2005, with Rodrigo Flores-Roux),  Comme des Garcons series 2, Red: Palisander (2001), Kangol Kangol 38-83,  Keiko Mecheri Gourmandises,  Divine L’Ame Soeur,  Divine L’Être Aimé Homme and Femme (2008),  Divine L’Homme de Coeur,  Divine L’Homme Sage,  Donna Karan Gold (2006, with Calice Becker and Rodrigo Flores-Roux),  Elizabeth Arden 5th Avenue Style (2009),  Apothia L Eau de Parfum (2006),  Avon Floral Prints Magnolia, Jack Black Signature Black,  Eddie Bauer Adventurer II in 2009,  Puma Free Flowing for men (2008),  Six Scents Ende / Anfang (2009),  Divine Eau Divine (2009).

Where did you grow up? Can you share with our readers some stories from your childhood, and what you were like as a kid…?    

Yann Vasnier: I was born in Rennes, Brittany, France, and lived there until 19 years old.

Both parents work for the government, my dad is a veterinarian at the direction of veterinary services at the Agriculture ministry, Brittany is a big fish, pig and cows country! My mother is an accountant at the Finance Ministry, after starting at the 1st French TV called ORTF.

Both of my parents….. love, love, love their garden, which is part of the house where they live and previously owned by the Thabor garden director, the famous park in Rennes, landscaped by the Buhler brothers in the 19th century. So my parents inherited a great collection of more than 100 species of roses, lots of espalier fruit trees, magnolias, two greenhouses with grapes.They added a vegetable garden, lots of flowers and a ‘rocaille’ designed by my brother.

I am the youngest of three children- all brothers. My older brother was always interested in nature, plants, gardening, and has a varied career in Botany and landscape architecture.

He now works back in Brittany. My 2nd brother, HE is the trouble maker, and studied electronics then aeronautical in Paris, worked for the European Space Agency in Kourou in French Guyana and now is back in France in Toulouse at the French Space agency. Did you know he calculates the trajectory of Ariane, the space rocket, and of the satellites launched? I think that is so cool. As the 3rd son, I was always pretty spoiled. I was both shy and a bit of a rabble rouser… I did very well in school (except sport).

I always loved to read, study mathematics, chemistry, physics, art, painting, drawing, history, geography, but I admit, I always was an achiever, but I tried to do the minimal amount of work.   

Talk about your decision to become a perfumer?
   
Yann Vasnier: Around 12-13 years old, I was attracted to anything combining art and science. And I was spending my money on new fragrances.

In Dinard, on the coast, where my family had a house, I would always stop by the Divine perfume house, talk to Yvon Mouchel, (with whom I still work with today); he would sell all the Serge Lutens, the Annick Goutal fragrances and all the niche fragrances of the day.

I have always been fascinated by Chanel, the person, the brand, Karl Lagerfeld, my parents had been offered huge bottles of Chanel 19 and Pour Monsieur. I would collect tiny bottles and hunt for bottles of the rare Bois Noir. I wore the vintage and would wear Bois des Iles and Cuir de Russie.

I seriously looked for a way to come into the fragrance industry, focusing on studies in Mathematics, Chemistry and Physics, Baccalaureat serie C with honors, then the classe reparatoires aux Grandes Ecoles, a prep course with the main goal of training undergraduate students for enrollment to the very competitive national exam. 

To show my interest, I had worked during these two years on a catalog of more than 3000 fragrances with their name, their Brand, date of creation, olfactive family, descriptions, ingredients and perfumer.  After the exam in Chemistry, olfaction, English, interviews with industry people, I was hired by Quest international and finally accepted at ISIPCA. I was one of the three men out of 15 in the perfumery division ISIPCA was definitely the best time for me. I was a student, independent, I had my own apartment, a car, was employed and studying what I always had loved; what more could a young man want?

 

You have collaborated with Rodrigo Flores-Roux and most recently with Calice Becker on Lola… What are the challenges of two or more great noses ‘in the kitchen’ so to speak…

Yann Vasnier: More and more, working as a pair or a trio increases our reactivity, efficiency, multiplies our ideas, and fosters creativity, while decreasing the pressure and stress level. We have so much anxiety, coming from everyone (ourselves, inside the company and outside) that working with other let us relax from time to time.    

Having worked with both independent perfumers like Divine, Keiko Mecheri, and Parfums DelRae and more mainstream companies like Avon and Baby Phat, can you compare and contrast your experiences.

Yann Vasnier: It can start from exactly the same kind of idea or accord, but the development is totally different. Working directly with the owner like with Yvon Mouchel for Divine, Keiko, and DelRae is a privilege and let definitely more creative control.

Working for bigger projects is really competitive, challenging, a lot of different factors must be taken into account

 
What was it like to work with Kimora Lee Simmons who created Baby Phat?

Yann Vasnier: I’ve met her a few times. She loved to call me `Le Nez`. Kimora loved the original smell of the black Plum accord I had shown to Ruth Suthcliffe, and every time we met, I had to make the fragrance bigger, stronger, longer lasting on her skin.

Your proudest moment as a perfumer?  

Yann Vasnier: My first fragrance for Comme des Garcons Palisander, in only one try! Twelve ingredients and still a wonderful addictive fragrance and much more to come.

What fragrance and perfumer influenced you the most?  

Yann Vasnier: Definitely Francoise Caron, with whom I worked with when I began my career;  highly knowledgeable, efficient, no compromise in the writing of a formula.    

What is the fragrant thread that connects all your scents, no matter the price or the materials used?  

Yann Vasnier: Galaxolide and Hedione hahahaha.
I would say ambery notes, cistus labdanum, incense, everlasting, ambroxan.        

Favorite fine artists, how do they influence you?      

Yann Vasnier: I’ve always been attracted to sculpture and the way it interacts with space, from Michelangelo, Rodin, to Calder, Arman, Richard Serra ,Gauguin and his links to Brittany, Matisse “danse’ ,Mondrian, Malevitch(geometry, mathematical perfection), Vasarelly for his abstraction, Barnett Newman, Dan Flavin and all his work on light, diffusion in the space, cold light, warm light.

When you need to escape where do you go?  

Yann Vasnier: In Brittany, near Cap Frehel, on the coast between Cancale and St Malo, on the top of the rocks, staring at the ocean, the clouds, listening only to the wind and the go élans.  I live now in the section of NYC called Chelsea; its such a pleasure to walk from gallery to gallery to explore and experience new talents.

   
I know you like the night life… What are your favorite hot spots in NY and Paris?  

Yann Vasnier: Loving the Boom Boom Room at the Standard Hotel in New York, love the view, the fabulous crowd, the room, the fun. In Paris, my favorite restaurant is called Derriere, it looks like a private home, I still love the Georges on top of the Pompidou center for the view.

What’s your favorite adult beverage? Tequila and soda or vodka soda with lime.      

Your favorite music?  Minimal, house techno music.

Do you have any phoebias?  Vertigo.      

If you could bottle a sight, a sound, a taste or an abstract idea, what would it be?  

Yann Vasnier: The color blue or perhaps staying with color achieve a palette of all the different shades of colors.

 
Is the ‘nose’ now more important than the brand?

Yann Vasnier:  I’m not sure the typical consumer is so much interested by the perfumer. I think most say, “I want to smell good.”      

What distinguishes your ’scentsibilities’ from your colleagues?

Yann Vasnier:  I think we are all different, it’s incredible to see, while working on the same project, everyone of us has his own approach, his own vision.      

Many perfumistos wring their hands at change, i.e. the discontinuation or reformulation of a vintage scent due to regulations or other factors…. Do you think one should disclose these changes?
 
Yann Vasnier: I think the end consumer would be bored to know every time there is a change in IFRA, I’m convinced the brands and perfume houses don’t want to destroy a masterpiece and are trying to stay as close as possible to the original scent, which can be a lot of work.

   

How are you bridging 20th century perfumery with 21st century technology?

Yann Vasnier: I am still looking into developments in new naturals and new synthetic materials.          

Raw materials vs. synthetics. Which are the most challenging to work with why?

Yann Vasnier: Naturals are really challenging, for safety reason, for stability in color, in odor, their quality, their price.      

What is your opinion of the ‘prophecy’ that within 10 years there will be a small death in perfumery, due to depleted resources, and IFRA regulation. Is the Art of perfumery, evolving or dying?

Yann Vasnier: Not dying at all but sure evolving.

What is your feeling about marketing fragrances to men and to women, or do you believe that most fragrances can be shared. For example our reviewer Mark Behnke, a strapping married man is so confident in his masculinity he wears Feminite du Bois and your Mythique…

Yann Vasnier: Most fragrances can be shared. I used to wear Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, N*19 and Cristalle, which are not the most macho fragrances…
I definitely can see men wearing Feminite du Bois and Mythique, the one I smell the most on men is definitely Tom Ford Black Orchid, its incredible!

Tell me something about yourself that you have never revealed in an interview.

Yann Vasnier: I am in love.  

Images: jmhullot, fmpgoh, mushi king, urimland, 64iso, harold lloyd, Ayala Sender blog

Advertisment:
Some of fragrances mentioned in this article are available at: LuckyScent.com

Michelyn Camen is a New York City based writer and consultant who is a former Brandweek Marketer of the Year and Ad Age 100 recipient. She slipped off her power suit to pursue her passion for beauty and fragrance. Camen is a fragrance specialist and the owner of FifthSense N.Y.C., where she consults for niche luxury, fashion, beauty and fragrance companies.

She is the Editor-at-Large www.fashiontribes.com, a top ten fashion e-zine and the Fragrance Editor for UptownSocial.net. Michelyn is the former Senior Contributing Writer for Sniffapalooza Magazine, the former New in Niche Columnist for Basenotes and was the Editorial Director for Beauty News NYC & LA. Email her at fifthsensenyc@aol.com

gknight

Outstanding interview again Michelyn! Yann your resounding passion shows through looking forward to seeing much more of your work!

Nov
13
2009

perfumista diva

I adore Mythique. Love it.... I just received a sample and I am ordering a full bottle...

Delightful interview... and I WANT to go the boom Boom room too :)

Nov
10
2009

CourtrightHer

Outstanding (as usual) Michelyn!
I found his insight to your question with regard to the challenges of collaborating with other noses fascinating. Egos have to be checked at the door, for sure! Not as familiar with his work with the exception of Lola but I am a big believer in the sharing of fragrances.

Boom boom boom boom
I love to see you strut,
up and down the floor
When you talking to me,
that baby talk
I like it like that
Whoa, yeah!
Talk that talk, walk that walk
Boom boom boom boom

Tell us how it turns out!

Nov
09
2009

kay_li13

sigh, makes me want to become a perfumer :-)

Nov
09
2009

cynthia44

wonderful interview yet again Michelyn.... I am always interested in what the perfumers think of IFRA.there are so many varying opinions.. Yann Vasnier seems to take it stride, as do many perfumers.yet so many believe the opposite... it seems that young Yann found his vocation at an early age... and it will be interesting to follow him.

Nov
08
2009

memechose

its quite a testament to a perfumer, when visionary creative directors like Keiko Mecheri and DelRae Roth take the time to comment on the site. We are so honored by your presence.

Nov
07
2009

gblue

Michelyn,
I've found every one of your interviews fascinating. Thanks for another one!
I like that he isn't against shared fragrances, some people are so rigid in their views of "mens" and "womens" scents.
Nick

Nov
07
2009

Keiko Meecheri

Thank you Michelyn for another amazing interview. We had the pleasure of working with the Yann Vasnier on Gourmandises. He is another talented Nose that everybody should keep their eyes on.

Nov
06
2009

Andy Austin

I am not familiar with any of these fragrances, but I see that there are a few for men.. I have neevr been to the Boom boom room .. but , I am sure its a great place to take the beautiful Michelyn

I learn from every interview ...just how much I can learn from every interview.

Nov
06
2009

chayaruchama

You have truly wondrous gifts as an interviewer, dear MC !

Monsieur Vasnier-
Your candor is a pleasure; such a varied body of work.
I very much look forward to future oeuvres.

Nov
06
2009

memechose

Kathyrn and the very astute Danna- I like danna believe Yann is on a path not dissimilar to that of Kurkdjian... at a very young age Yann has and will contine to create an impressive body of work. His mentor is Francoise Caron after all...

Wim, Danna and Flora55 - You are all so wise- the future of the Art is in our young perfumers

She loves perfume, flitter sniffer, and Laurie E (the perfumer behind sonoma scents..thank you)- Divine fragrances are divine!!!!

Delrae- you honor us with your presence and our fabulous reviewer Mark loves and wears Mythique.

dawn kana, wendy , zoka and jeca- Thank you for your comments. every interview is a piece of the perfumer's heart and soul. Thank you for recognizing that.

Nov
06
2009

Wim Janssens

Lovely!
Beautiful interview.
The attention you give to young perfumers, makes clear that the passion to the "Art of Perfuming" is alive and kicking!
All there amazingly gifted "noses" like Yann are the future in the industry.

The combination of his believes, dreams, personal background combined with the "Michely Camen Style" have resulted again in a wonderful piece of written art.

The nose can capture a lot, but when I read you reviews Michelyn, I am able to smell and feel trough my screen!

Big applause!

Love,

Wim

Nov
05
2009

Kathryn

I don't usually think of someone who frequents the Boom Boom Room as being grounded in a classical past. It will be interesting to see as Yann Vasnier's career develops whether he will be able to draw out some of the paradoxes in his life in his perfumes. The results could be interesting. Michelyn, I really love your interviews.

Nov
05
2009

she loves perfumes

This site was recommended by someone from another blog. I love Divine fragrances and never knew that Yann Vasnier was the creator... This interview is much more 'real' than on other sites. It feels like I am talking to Mr. Vasnier and not about esoteric nonsense and chemicals...

thank you I will look at many more articles on this site now...

Nov
05
2009

zoka

Dear Yann Vasnier thank you for such an informative interview. We are always happy to read and understand creators of fragrances we adore.Your creations are amazing.

Nov
05
2009

danna

i think that this is a very interesting interview of a oung , talented and accomplished perfumer.. he is like a young Kurkdjian in the fact he created one fo the greatest fragrances ever CDG Palisander on his first try.

It will be interesting for him to read this interview in 10 years and to see the body of work he produces.

I also agree that the sky is not falling due to IFRA.

Excellentagain. Michelyn and thank you Mr. Vasnier, you are handsome now, but what a beautiful little boy were.

Nov
04
2009

LaurieE

Like flittersniffer, I'm a woman who enjoys Divine L'Homme de Coeur and L'Homme Sage. L'Homme de Coeur is one of my very favorite iris fragrances. Thank you both for an interesting and fun interview!

Nov
04
2009

Flora55

What a delightful treat! It's good to see such talent in a young perfumer, so full of ideas an inspiration.

(I have a sudden urge to go clubbing at the Boom Boom Room for some reason...)

Nov
03
2009

Somerville Metro Man

Another great interview Michelyn. I feel I learn more about the person as well as the perfumer.
I never considered whether Mythique was marketed as feminine when I tried it I just loved the warm iris in the heart of it all. In the end I wear what I think smells good on me and M. Vasnier's creations smell good on me. I'm glad to see M. Vasnier alos agrees and I agree with most of his choices, too.
I'm looking forward to the sequel of this interview; "Yann & Michelyn Live From The Boom Boom Room"

Nov
03
2009

dawnkana

Awesome interview!

Yann, I would love to smell your interpretation of the color blue (all shades of blue) in perfume form.

~Dawn

P.S. Please take Madame MC to the BoomBoomRoom!

Nov
03
2009

riverspirit (wendy)

Another wonderful interview Michelyn, i appreciate these very much and always love your questions.
Yann Vasnier nice to know more about you.

Nov
03
2009

jeca

Dear Yann,
Thank you for this beautiful story, I think the blue color is really a challenge, I love it in L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain.

I love your recent creation for DelRae, Mythique! It's a wonderfully romantic perfume. Ms. Roth, I wish you fruitful collaboration with Yann Vasnier!

Michelyn, you are amazing, as always ;o)))

Nov
03
2009

flittersniffer

"Love, love, love" the article... For the record I am very fond of Divine L'Homme Sage and L'Homme de Coeur and I am a woman. Hope you get to visit the Boom Boom Room after all your hard work!

Nov
03
2009

delrae

Yann is not only extremely talented but also creates with an ease, enthusiasm and intellect that makes the whole collaboration process a geniune pleasure. I am looking forward to more creations with him.
DelRae Roth, Creative Director, Parfums DelRae
www.parfumsdelrae.com

Nov
03
2009