Vintages The Vintage Underdogs: 5 Unfairly Forgotten Perfumes

The Vintage Underdogs: 5 Unfairly Forgotten Perfumes

05/27/16 08:12:36 (58 comments)

by: Miguel Matos

Inside the web of perfume collectors there are the holy grails - perfumes that were iconic, that made such a statement and had such success that it is impossible to write about perfume without having them as references. Some of them disappeared but the memory of them still lingers among vintage perfume lovers. There are others that could not be discontinued because they still sell even if ruined forever due to reformulation. And there are the ones that few remember, that are not written about. The ones that don't get hundreds of reviews. The ones we search for online when we find them for a buck, only to find they were sent to oblivion.

Sometimes, these are just as glorious as the iconic ones, but they just missed the perfect timing, were discontinued too soon or were just left unspoken and unsmelled for no apparent reason. I want to bring them to discussion in a series of articles for Fragrantica and here is the first list of 5 Vintage Underdogs.

 

Lancetti Suspense (1993)

Bought in a car trunk sale for 5 euros, I had no reference about it when I saw the bottle but consulted the comments on Fragrantica and learned in a minute that this was a rich green scent. I love galbanum and so decided to go for it and got my almost full 100ml bottle for a real bargain. I went home and sprayed it only to find one of the most gorgeous and luxurious green compositions that I have ever encountered. Imagine Silences with more flesh and lust. Speaking of Silences, isn't it strange that they are both in the same style and share unsettling names? Silences? Suspense? In Suspense, galbanum is the star but it is associated with coconut to make it creamy and milky. There is an absolutely stunning animalic musk in the base notes and the drydown is very warm, unlike Silences and Chanel 19. Suspense is not as powdery as the latter but it shares the same theme.

Launched in 1993, it missed the opportunity of being truly appreciated. The style was not en vogue at that time, so it soon entered the reign of oblivion. Sadly. If you want green with voluptuousness while still carrying the enigmatic presence of this style, look for it.

 

Prince Matchabelli Aviance (1975)

Winner of the category "abstract unusual scent"! This was a hit in America in the 1970's but I don't think it ever reached Europe. I managed to blind buy it from a seller on Etsy after reading one rare review online. It starts a little lemony and with a magnificent display of intelligence in the use of aldehydes. I also think there is a chypre feeling to it, although I don't consider it a chypre. The lemon transforms the initial freshness into another kind of freshness brought by lily of the valley. I can't describe it completely but what enchants me is a strange musk base note that is extremely sexy and lasts hours and hours. It has a transparent quality and could perfectly be launched today with success. There is a balance between green/animalics that are clearly vintage but it all comes up with a transparency that is very modern. Check the commercials for the time: “I'm gonna have an Aviance night”... There is an Aviance Night Musk, too, I wonder how that one smells.

 

Celine Magic (1996)

Some perfumers seem to be working on the same composition over and over again, as if they were looking for constantly perfecting it. Sophia Grojsman seems to be doing it. In my mind, she has a lineage of creations that seem like a thread. One perfects the other. This all started with the fruity airy warm Kashaya for Kenzo in 1993. After that she did Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars in 1994 which takes on the fruity aspect and infuses it with roses and moss to create what to me is a beautiful fruity rose chypre. In the middle she composed the supreme chypre YSL Champagne which reminds me of some elements in Guerlain Mitsouko. Peachy rose chypre with spices and a bubbly fizzy accord. Champagne was a bit too sweet for me but I think she perfected it with another fragrance that seems forgotten even among vintage collectors: Celine's Magic.

To my nose this is like Champagne finally reviewed and taken to to ultimate perfection. The most glorious oakmoss unites with rose and peach but with a very creamy aspect which never gets sweet. There are green sprinkles and pinches of spices to make it more complex. A powerful musk creates the perfect setting for such an enveloping and euphoric luxurious experience. And the bottle is precious!

 

Trussardi Donna (1994)

Sweaty, sensual floral aldehydes of unforgettable character and bold proportion, typical of the 90's. The flowers in Trussardi Donna are so intertwined here that I am not sure what I am smelling. I thought I was getting a gorgeous honeysuckle but as it turns out there is no honeysuckle here. So it must be rose playing with jasmine, ylang ylang and tuberose in a way that it seems that the plants are having sex. Sweet, fizzy and steamy and at the same time elegant. This is also a summer concentrate in liquid form. The body heat element may come from the sage which sometimes can impart a carnal side to fragrances. Without sage, this would be too pretty and feminine. Hyacinth elongates this vintage carnal feeling with a fresh sensuality. Exquisite and not sufficiently praised, be sure to not overlook it if you come across one of these bottles.

 

Michael Jackson Légende 1989

There is the ever-repeated story that Michael Jackson's favourite perfume was Bal a Versailles and this lost gem has a link with the iconic animalic. Michael's own perfume line comprised two editions: a feminine one called Mystique and a masculine called Légende. Sadly the perfume brand was suffocated under the scandals he saw himself involved with at the same time he was going to launch the fragrances. They are now somewhat of a lost myth but it is true that they existed and I have one bottle to prove it. I bought Légende in a perfume shop in Lisbon where I get some of my treasures. It is not my style but it is interesting. It's a heavy dirty musk and not much else. And there is the link between Légende and Bal a Versailles. They both smell like warm aroused bodies. The masculine could be something from Studio 54, the feminine I never got my hands (or nose) on.

The bottle is a tacky black round glass shape and it has a holographic image of Michael Jackson. This image smiles as you move the bottle. As for the scent itself, just try to imagine the lovechild of Jovan Musk and Muscs Koublai Khan.

 

Did I mention some perfume you were curious about? Is there a vintage underdog scent that you would like to know more about? Leave a comment! :)

 

Miguel Matos is a Portuguese journalist obsessed with perfume. Miguel likes to see himself as a fragrance curator, investigating perfume as contemporary art. He directs his own cultural magazine, Umbigo, and writes texts for museums and galleries. He is a vintage perfume collector and organizes regular talks called Vintage Perfume Sniffing. He also writes on beauty and grooming for Beauty almanac.comHe is a Fragrantica writer, translator and editor of Fragrantica. com.br

 



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PerfumeEmpress
PerfumeEmpress

Chalk me up with those who are disappointed because they gave these frags a miss for whatever reason.

Like madonnatella, I am also a fan of Miss Dior and Balmain's Ivoire (the originals; of course!). Ivoire was one of my sister's sig frags. I also loved Mahora. And Azzaro 9 was one of my many perfume staples way back when.

Sigh. Why do all the good ones get Discontinued? Or worse, reformulated (shudders).

Feb
02
2017
Cybernoir
Cybernoir

dang miguel, i just passed on a bottle of suspense, cause i had never heard of it. will be keeping my eyes peeled. i am chock full of lingo today.

thanks as always for your reviews and columns.

Feb
02
2017
mabelcruet
mabelcruet

Aviance was definitely sold in the UK. I managed to score two full bottles of it on eBay and now I have it on regular rotation. It is absolutely divine-I'm kind of stuck in a loop where I want to wear it because it's so gorgeous, but the more I wear it the less I have and then I won't be able to wear it but I want to wear it because its so gorgeous....!

Feb
02
2017
tacoataco
tacoataco

Great.
What do you think about "Arpège Pour Homme" by Lanvin?
Thanks.

Feb
01
2017
slavka.filipova
slavka.filipova

I have two empty bottle of this one. I used to love it when i was younger. I bought a ladies version last summer it was gift from my brother but it smells very bad. I love the bottles and the hollogram picture of MJ i love him in this pictures it is one of my favorite. I am fan of him from 4-th grade and i am 37 now and i still love him like i was then. I used to wear this one and i love it i know it's man fragrance but it was MJ's and i didn't need any other fragrance then, but it finished and i didn't find it anywhere after. I don't remember the smell much but it is MJ and that's all that matters!!! Brings back so many memories.

Feb
01
2017
lunamystic
lunamystic

Well of course I'm going to say Luna Mystique by Prince Matchabelli (the original that was discontinued around 1992) not the one that comes up in the picture on here. It was the first Perfume my husband bought me all on his own ( with out taking a shopping assistant, sister etc) I have received more compliments than anyone can ever count from this wonderfully seemingly simple fragrance. The last time I wore it was for my oldest daughters wedding....my bottle has enough in it for my other two children's wedding days. NO DIVORCES!!!

Feb
01
2017
vero.gozzi
vero.gozzi

Just two more words: Easy Krizia.

Feb
01
2017
glitteralex
glitteralex

Thank you for this great article. Suspense & Aviance are actually two that I keep at home for regular use. Aviance in particular is incredible on the skin. Can't wait to try the Michael Jackson!

Oct
29
2016
matty64
matty64

My all time favorite fragrance from this era is the original Xeryus by Givenchy. The one in the dark purplish-black bottle, the design in the base of the bottle always fascinated me. Anyone happen to know the concept? Did it come from a dresses design of that time period? Thanks

Oct
29
2016
madonnatella
madonnatella

Beverly Hills by Gale Hayman of giorgio beverly hills' fame;
from that same Céline when Michael Kors was "on the helm":
"Céline", a lovely fullbodied floral;
of course the one and only "Miss Dior";
Balmain's first "Ivoire".......;
Sonia Rykiel "le sept Sense";
Guerlain's "Mahora";
Versaces' "Blonde" and ["X/S"];
Schiaparelli "Shocking"......
but always always Gale Hayman's civet laden "Beverly Hills"
and let's also not forget Donna Karan's signature perfume of the same time (1990).

Oct
29
2016
La DameDeNoir
La DameDeNoir

Revlon Essence. A very rare perfume from the earlies 2000, very soon discontinued. I do not know why: today is such an unknown perfume that I would say it never had existed if I wouldn't have a small bottle. It was a gorgeous sweet floral scent, with cold undertones.

Sep
28
2016
kateridelisle
kateridelisle

Elizabeth Arden Memoire Cherie, a gorgeous springtime floral, Givenchy III, beautiful chypre,oak moss and subtle sweet; drove all the men in my life crazy! The original Miss Dior!

Sep
28
2016
perrfumefreak
perrfumefreak

Tribe from the time around the very early 90's was a gem that was discontinued way too fast. I absolutely loved it. It was super bright floral and a little musky, sort of the missing link between 80's florals and the ever popular fruity floral. I miss it dearly.

Aug
31
2016
Bedhead
Bedhead

Nice review -- and very interesting. I love to read about the ones that got away. I had many of these, or my mom and sisters did, so all the more fun to read!

Jun
21
2016
MeanSuga
MeanSuga

Aviance and Aviance Night Musk my mother had worn back in the 70`s, along with the likes of Enjoli. Emeruade, Jean Nate, the Jovans, various other popular drug store classics of that time and fragrant oils .
I am sure I had stolen a spritz or two ;)
I do remember the commercial.
How I would love to revisit the Aviance.
You have sparked me Miguel :) I will be adding Aviance to Wish Lists .

Jun
05
2016
Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

Honestly, I never thought I had such a soft spot for the underdog, or that my wardrobe was so well stocked with them!!!!!
'Diable au corps' by Donatella Pecci Blunt. Castoreum, Civetta,myrrh, spices, need I say more?????
'Incognito' Dana, smoke, woods, honey and touches of aldehydes, very sultry.
'Bouquet D Orient's by Girard: vanilla and myrrh in a cloud of smoke! All of them from cheap as chips to reasonably priced.

Jun
04
2016
rickyrebarco
rickyrebarco

Aviance was a good one.

Jun
03
2016
Synthaesthetic
Synthaesthetic

Azzaro 9. No question. I only discovered it because I didn't want something else coming from the same seller to be lonely in the mail, and the notes listed here intrigued me. It's not my style, being a hazy wall of flowers, but it's just so good and so different that I can't stay away from it in the spring. Main notes: mimosa, wisteria, dyer's greenweed, and--on me--pineapple. Just look at its page. So much love, virtually no dislike, plenty of folks wondering how Azzaro could axe it. I believe that it would be quite famous if it had come out at a more opportune time than 1984 when perfume fashion was going in the opposite direction.

More well-known but not nearly well enough appreciated: Derby by Guerlain. A true masterwork also hindered by timing (a chypre marketed to men in 1985).

Love all the Prince Matchabelli mentions!

Jun
02
2016
faerywren
faerywren

Love this article. Now I'm going to have to go searching for some of these treasures myself. Aviance was very popular when I was a kid and I remember it fondly! FYI, Aviance Night Musk was very nice, too!

Jun
02
2016
Sherihan
Sherihan

Let's remember Omar Sharif perfumes, and Roma by Laura Piagioti .

Jun
02
2016
Bajar
Bajar

Great post, Miguel, and very informative as always! I just checked my perfume wardrobe and I realized that the "vintage underdogs" I own are quite a few. Most of them never were in my wish list but every time I was looking for an expensive vintage, sellers often offered me an "underdog" with my purchase for just a few euros or as a gift. I discovered a lot of gems among these offers and I was always wondering how it was possible for these people to know my taste on perfumes so well. So now I really enjoy from time to time some drops of Leonard de Leonard, the first Versace (1981), Madame de Carven, Montana Parfum d' Elle, Eau de Metal, the first Nina (1987), Molyneux Vivre and Beaulieu's Vison Noir. Of course after this article, I have to try Michael Jackson's Legende, which I have rejected politely a hundred times at Mr. Alexandros's tiny store and definitely to find some drops of Suspense. It sounds irresistible! (By the way, Miguel, in case you continue the series of these articles, be prepared to receive the bill of my new vintage purchases...)

Jun
02
2016
[email protected]
ornagershon@gmail.com

Miguel. the way you discraib those perfumes -
Love it! :)

Balahe by leonard
Leonard by Leonard
Gucci No. 3

Jun
02
2016
diego.lesgart
diego.lesgart

I wore Supense her ... amazing fragance! iconic for me ... Similar to Safari ...

I add ARMANI for her 82 ... LA NUIT by Paco Rabanne ... United Colors of Benetton (at first) ... FENDI for her 85 ... ACTIEUR by Azzaro ... all of them are really icons! unforgettable!

May
31
2016
Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

Lol, @alexandra13, fyi, Miguel can go around wearing his pants over his head, never mind a beard, and still look smashing............

May
30
2016
Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

A few more: Nicole Miller by Nicole Miller, beautiful, floral, sparkly, fruity.
Houbigant Raffinee, the Vintage, a dream of fruit, spice and smoke!
Montana Parfum D Elle 2, ginger, tuberose and dreamy spiced plum....
Cardin Pierre Cardin for Women, floral, woody, mossy, animalic and gorgeous.
Aye, I need to rebuy some of these..

May
30
2016
alexandra13
alexandra13

Ok Miguel, phew! Thank you.
(note to self: ás vezes és mesmo muito parva e nada engraçada)

May
29
2016
migueldematos
migueldematos

@alexandra13 No offense taken :) I was just teasing you too. I can be a teaser you know?

May
29
2016
alexandra13
alexandra13

I think you are a little younger than me Miguel, but please please please don´t be offended, and of course there´s nothing to worry about! I had just read several articles in a row by fragrantica critics (John Biebel, Marlen Elliot Harrison and yours)and seeing your pictures just got me musing about the bald/bearded fashion...and felt I could write a funny comment about it. I really didn´t mean to be critical or hurtful, and I truly apologize if it came across that way to you. In fact, you look gorgeous with the beard, you know that,right? But not everybody pulls it off as well as you! My apologies, I´m killing this subject as of now.

May
29
2016
migueldematos
migueldematos

Dear Alexandra I think I am your age. Well I guess I will worry about that (or not) when I am older. Don't you agree?

May
29
2016
alexandra13
alexandra13

Hmm,I can´t really think of any "underdogs" as such, only perfumes that were fairly well appreciated at the time of their launch but were discontinued too quickly in my humble opinion (yes, I know there´s an acronym for that but I can spare the couple of seconds it takes to spell it out) There´s so many of those, I´m sure every Fragrantican here laments the loss of at least one favourite.
Can I digress a little and poke a little harmless fun at you super fashionable and cool fragrance critics (male)? I´m an eighties teen and had one of those haircuts with long bangs on one side and cropped short on the other side. It was very fashionable, and linked to the music/bands of the time, but utterly cringeworthy in remembrance.
Now, most of you cool dudes are sporting a beard and a bald head (or a sort of military coif) paired with suits that are 2 sizes too small, visible socks and leather brogues. The Amish/Pitbull/Rasputin style? Its rather...odd! How will you feel about it when you are nearing old age I wonder? And uhm...do you spray perfume in your beards and on your scalp? :))))

May
29
2016
migueldematos
migueldematos

Thank you @highroller I feel obliged to fulfill your expectations. Have a good Sunday!

May
29
2016
highroller
highroller

Brilliant idea for an article Miguel, can't wait for the next articles. I thoroughly enjoyed reading this first in your series. I hope the series last long because there are lots of lost and forgotten perfumes that deserve a second chance or a heartfelt tribute or at least an honorable obituary. In this article Lancetti Suspense, Aviance and Donna Trussardi piqued my interest most, especially Lancetti Suspence. Your 'stunning animalic musk' reference for it has got my own animalic musk stirring. Thanks and praise for an excellent article and idea.

May
29
2016
KiminaMia
KiminaMia

I have some stunning vintages that deserve to be remembered - somewhere in a cool dark cupboard - I must hunt them down...among my FAVOURITES is Faberge's BABE - the rather stunning Margaux Hemmingway modelled for the campaign amd we ALL wanted to be her...the simple, sweety, soapy green smell is still a stunner guaranteed to turn heads if I wear it.

May
29
2016
perrfumefreak
perrfumefreak

These five all sound interesting. However,back in the early 90's there was a scent called 'Tribe' and it was my favorite scent of all time. I remember it being very sweet and flowery. It was my high school perfume and I wore it everyday with my school uniform. Are you familiar with this discontinued gem? I have seen old bottles on eBay for up to $200 but I wouldn't buy one from eBay. Anyway, I'm still mourning the loss of my favorite scent.

May
29
2016
Lyndale
Lyndale

You mentioned Sophia Grojsman perfecting "Champagne" with Celine's Magic but you forgot the pinnacle of her "warm fruit" thread, the heavenly Tentations for Paloma Picasso. It may not be lying around in discount bins (more's the pity) but it is very much overlooked and truly deserved to have been a HUGE success.

May
28
2016
Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

Ciara Femme Fatale by Revlon? Creamy,spicy pear and peach, in smoke and resin....Paradise...the beauty of it.....

May
28
2016
lemonzest
lemonzest

Revlon's Xia Xiang was one of my favorites from back in the day. Exotic chypre, very out of step with loud 80's perfumes.

Prince Matchabelli's Cachet is sorely missed. Allegedly, Cachet smelled different on every woman who wore it. My friend Theresa and I were only about 11, but we tried this to see if that was true! (It wasn't.) But I liked Cachet anyway.

May
28
2016
Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

Kobako, both the 30s and 80s version though I have the 80s bottle. The vintage, if found, is a gem, the bottle I have is gorgeously spicy, animalic and smooth. I can only imagine how the vintage must have smelled.

May
28
2016
wagner`s erda
wagner`s erda

I remember Aviance. So we did have it in the UK. I don't think I ever tried it though. One forgotten vintage that comes to mind for me is Houbigant Essence(s) Rare(s). Not sure of the spelling. I had this around 1979 and then it seemed to disappear because I just couldn't find it again. I wish I could remember how it smelled, but it was definitely chypre and so unusual. I loved it. Thank you for this Miguel.

May
28
2016
Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

Galanos by Galanos, yes, and I have a vintage one from a swap with another lovely Fragrantica member. It is so vintage it will sing Al Bowly. The carnation is sweet and mellowed beautifully with the oakmoss which here is a marvel and not at all harsh. Spices and resins add to the overall sweetness but it is not a cloying one, just sultry and seductive, like an erotic intimate smell. This is not for use, I just keep it in a cool place and open the cup just to sense its allure.

May
28
2016
migueldematos
migueldematos

@NebraskaLovesScent Me too! hahaha I can't be alone in this!

May
28
2016
NebraskaLovesScent
NebraskaLovesScent

Darn you, Miguel! Now I have that Aviance commercial song stuck in my head. ;-)

May
28
2016
framorena
framorena

I have Trussardi Donna, exactly that one of the pic, andYour description is perfect.
So sad we can't find such beautiful compositions and philosophy anymore...
there's something similar, but what about the price?
PS: if you could ever find Donatella Pecci Blunt "Diable Au Corps", you will understand what I'm talking about... a beauty.

May
27
2016
HeidiLynn
HeidiLynn

I have Aviance night musk and it is a balmy, spicy, warm, toasty sandalwood. It is amazing! Would love to try some of these interesting vintages.

May
27
2016
Matt Oldham
Matt Oldham

The Céline bottle looks like a pacifier, a popular item with Club Kids and Ravers in the 90s.

May
27
2016
Chanel4Evah
Chanel4Evah

Champagne (Yvresse) is one of my top 5 favorite scents in the universe!!!! One fragrance I think that is a great gem from the past is DNA by Bijan! Might want to try that one (the original version Circa 1993)

May
27
2016
Carnation
Carnation

Aviance was like a precursor to the powerhouse fragrances of the 1980's. A little went a long way.
Although we discuss it from time to time in the vintage community,Cardin de Pierre Cardin is worth mentioning.

May
27
2016
CopperBlue
CopperBlue

Smiling hologram of Micheal Jackson? Oh the horror!

May
27
2016
Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

This is a great article Miguel! I recently tried Champagne (not the booze...) and it was sensational. It's a pity that there isn't the same hype around vintage scents that already exists for vintage clothing (although Fragrantica could see to that...). I happen to have had Aviance Night Musk (and got it for a song two years ago!!!!) and I think you would like it. I was attracted to it thanks to the hefty proportions of spice and wood, it is heavy but also I detect a touch of moss which mingles well with the spicy notes. I never do light hand but ANM is best used sparingly, that's when it's true beauty shines. I am very curious about Celine Magic and Donna Trussardi, I think at some point I must have had 'Donna', just need the help of the British Archeological Team to unearth it from the depths of my wardrobe. Please, more lovely vintage underdogs!

May
27
2016
chimidoro
chimidoro

Magic sounds dreamy.
I loved Champagne at the time of release, prior to the stinky name change.

May
27
2016
SadieBluesLady
SadieBluesLady

I am glad to see the praise for Celine's Magic!! A Fragrantica friend turned me on to this perfume around 2 years ago, and I was able to snag one of the few bottles that I could find on Ebay. A warning to others attempting to do the same, be prepared to overlook scads of Celine Dion scents as the Ebay search function seems brain dead about separating them out of my search request for Celine.

May
27
2016
grayspoole
grayspoole

Wonderful post, Miguel! I just love the idea of Vintage Underdogs, and there are plenty of them out there to discover.

As another galbanum lover, I've been wondering about Suspense for some time. I think I might need some now.

On the other hand, that Michael Jackson perfume isn't going to happen for me.

May
27
2016
smellagent
smellagent

if you want one of these get it now because after this article the price will go up probably. I have seen it on here.

May
27
2016
relle
relle

Groovy ino! You make questionable retro sound new and inviting. Keep these articles coming. On the lookout for Donna now. Cheers!

May
27
2016
relle
relle

Groovy ino! You make questionable retro sound new and inviting. Keep these articles coming. On the lookout for Donna now. Cheers!

May
27
2016
mapache
mapache

Miguel....awesome post!!! I love to read your stories.
Keep them coming !!! A+

One forgotten vintage that I associate with is STRADIVARI by Prince Matchabelli. My long gone Aunt wore this and Chanel # 22 and #5. Stradivari was probably the first scent I have ever smelled. It is burrowed in my mind forever. I know I would recognize it if I smelled it today. I call it one of my "memory scents". My Mother's WHITE LINEN...would be another memory scent.
I have to search out a bottle of Sradivari ...just for the fond memories !!!

May
27
2016
perfumecritic
perfumecritic

And there's also an Aviance Night Musk "White", too!

May
27
2016
Vodka
Vodka

I knew there was at least a bit of resemblance in between MJ's Legende and Bal a Versailles!

And Aviance was sold in my country in the early 80s. Was not as famous as Tabu or Cachet, but I did see the ads in magazines.

May
27
2016

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