Tradition through Generations - PATRICIA DE NICOLAÏ

10/08/08 11:59:28

The company of Parfums de Nicolai from Paris was founded in 1989 on the concept that “the company is based on quality of family cooperation and ownership, with an ambition to create top quality perfumes for reasonable prices, which are of high quality and develop long on your skin“. These are the words and wishes by the founder of Nicolai Company, Patricia de Nikolai and her husband, Jean Louis Mishau.

Patricia did not start floating in these waters by coincidence. Ever since she was a child, she has been independent and has always wanted a different kind of life, where she would be able to decide on her time schedule, so she started designing.

She was born in 1957 in Paris, where she spent her childhood in the famous family Guerlain's house. She was in contact with 4 generations of the Guerlains. Her great-grandfather was director of the company, together with his brother and they worked successfully.

Patricia has met the latest creations of this famous house since she was a child, like the famous Shalimar, perfume for all times. When Patricia was a young girl, she learnt to recognize various sorts of bushes in a well-know reservation Sologne and the scent of the sea in Brittany.

Family talent for fragrances moves further. Her mother was renowned in making wines in Burgundy, and had a rare talent to preserve natural aromas of that area in the wine itself.

Patricia studied chemistry later and attended the ISIPCA University in Versailles specialized in perfume creation, started by her cousin Jean Jack Guerlain. She developed the talent for perfume creation soon, with the help of the best family trainer, Guerlain himself.

Patricia de Nicolai received a reward of French Union of Perfume Designers, as international designer, by which her talent was recognized.

She founded Nicolai with her husband in 1989 and she continued the prestigious family tradition which was over 200 years old.

The designer succeeded in creating the biggest collection of perfumes created in one generation, with an impressive number of creations: 12 perfumes for women, 6 EDTs for men, 5 eau fraiches, 5 colognes, 3 cosmetic fragrances, as well as 19 fragrances for home and 40 oil fragrances for innovative lamps. Besides their competition, “Lampe Berger", they were the first to appear on the market with this idea.

The house of Nikolai created essential oils which can be found only at Chanel and Hermes. A drawback in this kind of production is a lack of manufactures of other companies and designers to create freely. Everything comes down to deadlines, marketing campaigns or trends, so we can notice that many perfumes which appeared in a certain period have similar scents and follow the scents of that season. Just like in fashion,”pret-a-porter" collections are accompanied with "haute-couture" collections, which have to be free, independent, with a personal stamp by designer.

It is unusual how many quality and different notes are offered by Nicolai to customers. Notes of a similar style can be found in all creations, with a special feeling for white flowers and musk notes. Patricia gives conferences often and is an active member of French Union of Perfume Designers, together with all famous designers of the world.

Patricia's way of making perfumes is very interesting. She makes a formula on her computer in her laboratory. Her technician then makes a sample. Over 1000 samples are made every year, and when the best combination is chosen, the perfume is made in precise way in large amounts in the factory. Talented Patricia's husband should also be mentioned, since he deals with packages design and production.

The Nicolais have had their factory since 1994. It is located in Orleans, two hours drive south of Paris, in the so-called “Cosmetic Valley“, near prestigious Dior, Loreal and Shiseido's factories.

One of the first perfumes by this house is Number One. It is composed of white flowers, bouquet of Egyptian jasmine, neroli and Indian tuberose, touched with a note of rose, iris and black currant. Patricia de Nicolai was awarded the prestigious award „Mouillette d'Or" for this creation in 1989, as the best international perfumer.

Two perfumes presented in 2007 are Fig tea and Le Temps D'Une Fete.

Fig Tea, created as eau fraiche, was presented in 2007 with fragrant sweetness of fig. It opens with notes of fig, its leaves and branches, with fruit nectar and all its passions, and it continues with osmanthus and artemisia accords. Balance of the notes is created by tea notes, which make a perfect harmony of fruit, leaves and flowers, finishing the perfume with darker and slightly smoky waves.

Le Temps d'une Fête is another novelty by the house of Nicolai. It celebrates spring and seduces with notes of spring flowers with aromatic notes of greenery and grass. This fragrance opens with notes of osmanthus, mastic resin, oppopponax, daffodil, hyacinth, and continues with accords of styrax, oak moss and sandalwood.

The year of 2007 was marked with intensive editions and aromas of Les Magnifiques collection. It presents four perfumes: Cedrat Intense, Sacrebleu Intense, Maharanih Intense and Rose Intense, with strong and intensive aromas, created of natural essential oils. They are available in amount of 30 and 100 ml.

The latest edition from 2008 is Eau Turquoise, a perfume dedicated to summer, warm weather and light clothes. It belongs to Eau Fraiche collection, refreshing fragrances and it introduces aromatic dreams of tropic mango accords, lime and apricot, which intertwine with floral, intoxicating notes of osmanthus, spices, Turkish rose, pepper, jasmine, cardamom, woody accords of cedar, sensual musk and jasmine absolute.

Some other perfumes by the house of Nicolai are:

For women: Number One (1989), Odalisque (1989), Vanille Tonka (1993), Sacrebleu (1993), Juste Un reve (1996), Rose Pivoine (1998), Balkis(2003), Maharanih (2006), Cococabana (2006), Le temps d'une fete (2007), Fig Tea (2007).

For men: NewYork (1989), Vetiver (1994), Carre d'As (1995), Balle de Match (2004).

Materials were taken from the official website of Parfums de Nicolai.