Fragrance Reviews

Ulrich Lang Nightscape

12/08/09 21:51:58

By: Mark Behnke

Ulrich Lang has just released his third fragrance from his eponymous Ulrich Lang New York, Nightscape. This follows his first two scents Anvers and its sequel Anvers 2. I have enjoyed both of these quite a bit. Anvers which mellows down to a soft mossy leather and amber base and Anvers 2’s musky vanilla and incense base have become comfort scents for me.

I enjoy wearing them because they fit me like a worn pair of jeans and create a sense of comfort. Mr. Lang does not produce fragrances quickly as Anvers was released in 2003 followed by Anvers 2 in 2007. I am pleased to see he has sped up the process somewhat as it only took two years for Nightscape to make its appearance.

Mr. Lang states in the press release that he is “A big fan of patchouli Lang wanted to develop a fragrance that contains patchouli and feels like a scent that points to the future rather than the 60’s and 70’s vibes usually associated with the ingredient. Bye-bye Flower Power.”

That’s an admirable goal but it isn’t easy for a perfumer to work with patchouli as it is one of the most familiar perfume notes to most people; plus it often carries the unfortunate connection to a dated “60’s or 70’s vibe”. This makes it hard for a perfumer to make patchouli the star of the fragrant show. The two most frequent way perfumers have used patchouli is to pair it with a stronger note or accord or to have it be present in small quantities as a supporting note to accentuate other accords.

Mr. Lang chose a third path and that was to use an unusually high amount of patchouli oil. This has the effect of accentuating very different aspects of patchouli especially in the early development of Nightscape and, I think, helps achieve Mr. Lang’s thematic goal.

The top of Nightscape begins with the presence of bergamot and a very green accord underneath. This is joined by the first consequence of using the high amount of patchouli oil as an icy cool camphor note joins this and it makes the top of this feel like a winter walk in a forest after the first snowfall. There is a sharp woody crispness that is refreshing and exciting. With the camphoraceous nature of patchouli still in the foreground cedar ushers Nightscape into the heart.

This leads to what has become Mr. Lang’s trademark over his first three fragrances which is the presence of jasmine and in the case of Nightscape he choose to pair it with geranium. The choice of geranium is an excellent continuation of the green and cool themes already begun, the jasmine adds that grace note of floral sweetness that makes for an interesting contrast. As Nightscape develops into the base the patchouli has also returned to familiar olfactory ground but now it is paired with a trio of musk, amber and leather that mix well with the patchouli and create a smooth closing.

Nightscape has average longevity and sillage on me. If your worry about wearing a patchouli fragrance is everyone noticing it, Nightscape stays pretty close to the skin throughout its development.

By taking patchouli and upping the concentration Mr. Lang has created an icy-cool sensation until he brings us in out of the cold and back to the warmth by the end of Nightscape. This is a patchouli that I will look forward to wearing in the future.

If you would like to try Nightscape I have two samples for two Fragrantica readers, just leave a comment and we’ll draw two names and send them out to you.

Full disclosure: This review was based on a bottle of Nightscape supplied by Ulrich Lang New York.

Images: gibffe, a4gpa

Author: Mark Behnke (Somervill Metro Man)
Fragrantica Writer

Mark Behnke is based in Somerville, MA, a suburb of Boston, and is the writer for Fragrantica. By day, he works as a research chemist in a pharmaceutical company. By night, he has been a consistent poster on the forums at Basenotes.net under his nom de blog, Somerville Metro Man. You can also follow Mark on Twitter @SomMetroMan if you're curious to find out what he wears on a day-to-day basis.

Somerville Metro Man

The winners of the two Ulrich Lang Nightscape samples are feeble_25 and vioversilver.
I've PM'd you both so you can send me your contact info.
Congratulations and thanks for commenting

Dec
16
2009

CampyCamp

What a wonderful review. Thank you!

Dec
11
2009

JR8399

Nice review. I've tried it a few times and really love the opening and middle and even the initial part of the drydown. At first, I get a lot of earthy patchouli - kind of dirty. Then, with the cedar and geranium, it becomes more spicy, herbal and smokey with the clay-like essence of patchouli underneath it all. Then, it becomes musky - in a masculine body odor way - which is admirable, and slightly sweet - but still laden with the earthy patchouli. Unfortunately, my initial testings have left me disappointed with the scent's longevity. You say "average" and it "stays close to the skin," but have you found that it is surprisingly lacking in that department? Or is it perfectly subtle for such a strong note like patchouli? Any further observations would be appreciated.

Dec
10
2009

vioversilver

This sounds so wonderful , a definite mood was captured in describing this new scent, - the photographs , especially of the woods were beautiful.
Sounds gorgeous , I want it!

Dec
09
2009

memechose

Uli's patchouli :)jasmine , patchouli and geranium. i own this and is deep and rich and mysterious.mark a spot on review... and uli alays takes a different path :) the one less traveled..

Dec
09
2009

adamgottschalk

Nice review. Indeed, I've found patchouli can be tough to work with, for the reasons you mention and more.

Dec
09
2009

chayaruchama

I'm so glad you've enjoyed Uli's newest !

A lovely descriptive review...thank you ;-)

Dec
09
2009

NebraskaLovesScent

Hi, Mark! Very nice review!

I love patchouli, even in its 60's/70's headshop incarnations, but Nightscape sounds like it goes in a very different direction. And as someone who has been chastised by strangers and friends for wearing too much patchouli in too close a space, I'm intrigued by the idea of a wearable patchouli scent with just "average" sillage, LOL!

Dec
09
2009

feeble_25

Hey Mark ! A great review indeed !
Nightscape seems to be that kind of nostalgic yet entertaining fragrance which captures everything in an irish autumnal landscape. I would really like try this one, seems like it would fully suit my tastes ! The best, Vlad .

Dec
09
2009