Unidentified Fragrance Object by Kenzo

To make a powdery fragrance smell edgy and unexpected is no small feat. Powdery scents are the ultimate classics, imprinted in our collective olfactory consciousness as almost synonymous with perfume itself. Aurélien Guichard’s Unidentified Fragrance Object, a limited edition scent for Kenzo, is original in that it renders powderiness not as that of myriads maquillage granules, not as shavings of wood or orris root - all done so many times before… powderiness here is not “cosmetic”, woody or floral - it is mineral. Marble dust.

When I smell Unidentified Fragrance Object, Neruda’s phrase, “pollen of stone”, comes to my mind. Marble flowers, if they could bloom, would emit this indeed unidentifiable aroma of beautiful dustiness. I appreciate the ingenuity of the perfumer’s idea to pair “the marble accord” with frankincense, because the dry, resinous character of the note puts additional emphasize on the “stony” accord of UFO. I also love how, in turn, the notes of orange blossom and rose, delicate as they are, breathe life into this marble creation, making it perceptibly feminine.

According to Kenzo, Guichard was inspired by the “memory of his mother who was a sculptor working with marble, and has recreated the scent of marble powder against a woman’s skin.” That human warmth is very much present in the composition, in no small part thanks to the presence of vanilla. The latter does not make the fragrance appear even abstractly gourmand, nor does it make it particularly sweet. Rather, it makes the blend softer, rounder and warmer, bringing another dimension to this startling creation - that of familiarity and comfort.

Unidentified Fragrance Object is right now exhibited at the Museum of Modern Art in New York as part of the presentation of works by designer Ron Arad, the author of UFO’s bottle. The exposition will last till October 19th. Only 1000 hand-polished bottles of UFO were produced, they are available exclusively at kenzousa.com, 40ml of Eau de Parfum for $188.00.

Images: Kenzo, takomabibelot