Raw Materials Where Does Cashmere Wood Grow?

Where Does Cashmere Wood Grow?

07/29/16 13:44:39 (16 comments)

by: Matvey Yudov

Cashmeran is a compound without which we could hardly imagine modern perfumery. In the last few years, we see the word "cashmeran" more often in official press releases, although it's still mentioned in a much more mysterious manner as Cashmere Wood (there is no such tree), Cashmere Musk or Blond Woods.

Cashmeran

Cashmeran was synthesized for the first time in 1968 by John Hall of IFF. Yes, it is the same person who gave Iso E Super to mankind. Cashmeran is often nominally included into a group of polycyclic musks [compare the formula of cashmeran with Galaxolide which is one the most popular musks], but considering its smell, it could be placed in between woody and musky odorants.


The smell of cashmeran is complex and multifaceted, along with pronounced musk and woody nuances, it also incorporates a rich spicy component, a balmy vanilic aspect, reminiscent of old paper, as well as distinct coniferous and fruity notes. The smell of cashmeran is often compared to a tactile impression of cashmere wool. This is how it got its trade name.
 

 

Paco Sport Lou Lou

Among the first perfumes with cashmeran, Sport de Paco Rabanne (1986) and Cacharel Lou Lou (1987) are often mentioned. Cashmeran's olfactory profile is unique, but at the same time quite multipurpose;it can be used in practically all perfume genres. Cashmeran fits just as perfectly in manly woody compositions as in elegant floral chypres.

Frags with Cashmeran

Another quality of cashmeran is romantically described as a scent of sun-kissed skin. It is a specific salty, slightly animalic effect which appears in the dosage of less than 1%. Sometimes it's compared to the smell of wet asphalt. Under certain conditions, cashmeran produces interesting mineral context inside the perfume.

cK Reveal

Usually the amount of cashmeran in perfume rarely exceeds 2% (it is not cheap), but there are exceptions. One quarter of the terrific work by Maurice RoucelDans Tes Bras, is composed of cashmeran. The first impression you get is a coniferous woody and salty smell, which is enhanced by a salicylate complex and balanced by heliotrope and violet. About the same amount of cashmeran is in Nasomatto Duro, a spicy-leathery alpha perfume.

Dans Tes Bras

There is almost no oud perfume without cashmeran. The number of oud compositions with natural oud reduces drastically, and as synthetic oud accord  becomes more present, cashmeran usually makes a generous part of it.

In its pure form, cashmeran represents a crystalline mass melting at 27°C (80°F), so if you are given a bottle of liquid cashmeran, it means you need a shower at this room temperature more than smelling anything, or it is not really cashmeran. Just like in case with polycyclic musks, cashmeran is not soluble in water and very hydrophobic. This quality makes it unusable in the production of various odorants for household, especially in laundry detergents, fabric softeners, shampoos, etc. If cashmeran falls on fabric or hair, it is very hard to wash out.

Amber Xtreme & more

Some of the substances whose structure is very close to cashmeran are:

  • Nebulone, a captive invented by IFF, represents an effort to make cashmeran "longer and heavier", i.e. to shift it to the musk side. You can smell nebulone in J.F.Schwarzlose Berlin Zeitgeist.
     
  • Trisamber, aka woody furan, is also an IFF product, which possesses a dry woody amber smell and impressive substantivity, diffusivity and strength.
     
  • The close relative of trisamber is Amber Xtreme, which was also a captive product by IFF before it was enrolled in public sale the following year. Amber xtreme plays a key role in Paco Rabanne Invictus. Both, trisamber and amber xtreme were used to recreate a paper scent in Geza Schoen's Paper Passion. Amber xtreme is a part of the perfume base Cashmeran Velvet, which is made of Iso E Super and cashmeran (for a long time it was the only available perfume material containing amber xtreme).

Future of Cashmeran

This is what we have now, but looking at the formulas of new compounds similar to cashmeran, we can guess the nearest future of cashmeran-like smells production. On the left is Quinazoline derivative, patented in 2014. It has a more intense odor which is quite close to cashmeran, but sweeter, more floral, ambery, woody and powdery. On the right side is a compound synthesized by Givaudan. Along with cashmeran characteristics, it has a smoky aspect of vetiver and oud, and floral (rose), fruity (raspberry), powdery (iris) and animalic nuances.
 

Mat Yudov

Mat Yudov is a chemist, perfumer, and musician. Mat is a researcher and specialist in the chemistry of aromatic materials. He graduated from Moscow State University "Lomonosov" in 1999. He writes for the popular perfume blog leopoldray.blogspot.com (in Russian).

MEH 



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GodKing
GodKing

A terrific and well-written article...however, I'm with Calvini...IFF is busy concocting chemical crapola (or questionable safety) and then lobby to ban natural compounds that have been used in perfumery for centuries. Kinda reminds me of the drug companies who are busy concocting chemical crapola, lobbying politician, pay off Universities to brainwash physicals to treat people with dangerous drugs and not through proper lifestyle choices (diet, exercise, rest, reducing stress and daily meditation or prayer) and would ban organic fruits, vegetables, herbs and other foods if they could away with it. I gotta laugh when I see dishonest folks trying to pass-off "natural perfumes" and then try to convince you that it's worth $6 per ml when it's almost entirely alcohol and aroma chemicals.

Oct
24
2016
LadyPilot
LadyPilot

Whoever said chemistry was boring???!!!!:))))

Oct
24
2016
gordbrad
gordbrad

I love the way you are able to blend chemistry and odorants in expository prose. More please like this.

Oct
23
2016
Calvini
Calvini

All from IFF... I wonder how many tests and years of research they've done to deem these chemicals save while they ban all the natural resources

Aug
02
2016
kosmoskukka
kosmoskukka

Thank You for this ! <3

Jul
31
2016
Dorjee
Dorjee

Best writer in fragrantica... !

Jul
30
2016
Thomaso7
Thomaso7

another interesting chemical review of perfume ingredients!
-have you also done one on civetone type chemicals? I think I saw one on ambergris and musks - yes I saw one on musks.

Jul
30
2016
wesleyhclark
wesleyhclark

Best writer in Fragrantica...

Jul
30
2016
TillyWave
TillyWave

Thanks for this article! I always thought Guerlain Flora Nerolia had a 'cashmeran' drydown, very woody and smooth and well blended, and now I know why:)

Jul
30
2016
Afryka
Afryka

Very interesting, thank you!

Jul
29
2016
juniemoon
juniemoon

Cashmeran - can make you go crazy especially when combined with amber and musk. At the risk of being banned from this site for repetition I will say it again, these three along with the passionflower, lily and orange blossom is why Sunkissed Glow by JLo makes me swoon and my knees go weak, what a combination I am totally addicted.

Jul
29
2016
vintage_scent
vintage_scent

Many exquisite perfumes listed here in this genre and I have been intrigued for along time with Dans Tes Bras...now I must really try it. Wonderful article. Bravo!

Jul
29
2016
keshweannair
keshweannair

Oud Cashmere Mood by Maison Francis Kurkdijian.

Jul
29
2016
odoro
odoro

So enjoying these articles, They help me understand both the industry and the fragrances. Interesting!

Jul
29
2016
johngreenink
johngreenink

Nice analysis - most people who have not smelled cashmeran on its own would be very impressed. It is a very intoxicating and beautiful smell. It even seems to grow in complexity when it's diluted. It is like a creamy, buttery, sunny wood (words escape me) Like all master components, it takes on qualities based on what it's surrounded with. Another great article, Mat, thank you!

Jul
29
2016
CapriDog
CapriDog

Interesting article! The Givaudan's cashmeran-like-smell compound sounds good though (woody, musky, vetiver, oud, fruity, floral) .Yum.

Jul
29
2016

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