
By: Elena Vosnaki
I usually detest the hackneyed theme of coconut and sweet tropical scents, if only because they remind me of the antithesis of what I strive for: airheads frying on the beach to attain a lizard-worthy tan, replete with tons of sweet oily stuff smeared within an inch of their lives. The scent of artificial coconut also brings to mind those atrocious derelict-cab-dangling "deo" pine-trees that are enough to only get a glimpse of for my stomach to turn. But the reality of that genre taking a turn into Sith darkness has nothing to do with the fact that restraint, talent and a judged approach can create something that would capture my attention and have me eat my words. Ylang in Gold by M.Micallef is the latest in that line-up because it's gorgeous and in possession of that balance that many sweet tropical scents have abandoned somewhere along the way to their intended yumminess.

In the heart of winter a whiff of suntan lotion and coconut has the benefit of transporting us into a more carefree locale, with white sands, spun like sugar, lapping waves humming at the background and a gentle warm breeze bringing the aroma of a thousand leis. It's enough to escape the hustle and bustle of city life and the cold, miserable grip of wintertime for a minute!

The hints of boozy richness in Ylang in Gold recall saturated hues of rust and copper, done in a heavy silk drape, subtly changing with the play of the light upon the threads. I can feel—rather than see—the soft shimmer, like the trompe l'oeil of beige eyeshadow edged in taupe with a champagne highlighter gives the illusion of deeper, larger and more alluring eyes. This is a luxurious fragrance that is as delicious as a lemon-tinged vanilla pudding, taking a page off Casmir by Chopard, focused on the lusciousness of ylang in the floral heart.

The golden incandescence of Ylang in Gold lives up to the name, being a salicylate-rich floral (salicylate is that tropical floral element that is so prominent in the Ambre Solaire sunscreens) with a delicious floral tenacity that mysteriously intensifies the longer the perfume stays on skin. That treatment of ylang reminds me of the lily facets revealed by the subtle vanilla-salicylate accord of Vanille Galante by Hermes. Whereas there the vanilla thus emerged smelling like lily, here the vanillic tonality is a cross between milky sandalwood, suntan lotion and coconut water. Here the brûlée nuance is more "gourmand," a little thick, but done with elegance and restraint nevertheless. Without aiming to technically innovate or open new artistic pathways, the perfumer created a very pretty, very fetching fragrance to enjoy all year long. Its Orientalism is doe-eyed and contemporary enough to pull it through.
Ylang in Gold straddles the precarious balance between sweet, powdery-musky and woodsy and ends up smelling golden, generous and gorgeous.
The bottle is a solid rectangle with gold and rhinestone details and the juice comes in both a plain and a gold-specked (24K) variety that sprays lightly shimmery.
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Elena Vosnaki Elena Vosnaki is a historian and perfume writer from Greece and a Writer for Fragrantica. She is the founder and editor of Perfume Shrine, one of the most respected independent online publications on perfume containing fragrance reviews, industry interviews, essays on raw materials and perfume history, a winner in Fragrantica Blog Awards and a finalist in numerous blog awards contests. Her writing was recognized at the Fifi Awards for Editorial Excellence in 2009 and she contributes to publications around the world. |
Elena, what a great review!! Thanks for that ; I have eagerly awaited à description of this one. And my excitement is now doubled!
mmm mmmm,Yum! You make it sound so good!
This sounds like something I would have to hunt down and try. I do fully agree with the review, if done poorly these types of fragrances usually end up smellington like a Coppertone on crack - which is not a good smell or anyone.
I want to jump into that picture wearing this fragrance! This sounds delightful .
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