Articles by Author Matvey Yudov

A Fragrance for SantaA Fragrance for Santa

Columns 12/25/16 03:01 (34 comments)

Would Santa wear scent? What would it smell like? And if he did, would anybody smell it as he rode through the upper atmosphere? Well, every substance in gas form has a little gravity between molecules, so these molecules will distribute and fill all the space available. This probably means that in a vacuum or in outer space the diffusion of perfume will be much higher. Sadly, no one could notice it because it's actually not possible to inhale or breathe in space. ... (more)

Fragrantica editors choose scents they would gift to Santa. What would your choices be?

A Few Words About BlottersA Few Words About Blotters

Columns 12/02/16 07:55 (8 comments)

Blotters, also known as scent strips or mouillettes in French, are used by perfumers in the process of creation and by consumers in order to test a fragrance (as an alternative to applying it to one's skin). However, the smell of a scent on a blotter slightly differs from when you test it on your skin, though the key moments are usually preserved.   For a blotter to be convenient in use, it is usually about 4 inches long (10 cm). Sometimes they could ... (more)

What are they and how to use them.

Olfactory Pyramid or Perfumer's NightmareOlfactory Pyramid or Perfumer's Nightmare

Columns 11/30/16 17:45 (35 comments)

It is a fixture and common expectation to complete any perfume announcement with a so called perfume pyramid , to help customers set their preferences. Sometimes assigned pyramids cause passionate discussions about what you can and cannot smell of the notes listed. Some people who smell unlisted notes of chocolate make a guess about oud with an ylang overlay producing this chocolate illusion, while others question the accuracy of the pyramid and find another pyramid that is, accordi... (more)

Mat dethrones the holy perfume pyramid.

Blackpepper, piper nigrum, ブラックペッパーBlackpepper, piper nigrum, ブラックペッパー

Niche Perfumery 11/30/16 10:15 (5 comments)

Honestly, I am not quite sure about many things, but for black pepper I can truthfully say: this is my favorite spice. I am totally addicted to it. I can survive without salt and I am really not picky with food, but the absence of a pepper mill on the table could plunge me into despair. Black pepper is one of the few widely available spices from my childhood. My grandfather loved black pepper very much and my lunch at grandmother's was always generously seasoned with it. Myself, ... (more)

What is the new Comme des Garçons Blackpepper made of?

Extrait d'Atelier: Extrait d'Atelier: "Never Will Empty Lives Nice Smells Produce."

Fragrance Reviews 11/23/16 10:04 (3 comments)

  We all know the smells of different crafts: A baker may smell of flour and nuts, A driver – of petrol, an artist – of paint, A doctor – of medicine, a farmer – of land. But what do we know about idlers and sluggards? What is the smell of full wardrobes and cupboards? No matter what perfumes rich lazybones use Never will empty lives nice smells produce. Gianni Rodari     The ... (more)

Mat tells about the brand that creates scents of different studios: the shoemaker's, tailor's and jeweler's.

From Tincture To Supercritical Extraction — Methods Of Natural Aroma ExtractionFrom Tincture To Supercritical Extraction — Methods Of Natural Aroma Extraction

Raw Materials 11/09/16 13:25 (9 comments)

Concretes, isolates, hydrosols, resinoids, tinctures and the fashionable CO2, it is easy to get lost among the numerous specifications of aromatic products extracted from natural raw materials. Although, if we look closer at the methods of their extraction, we could divide them into two big categories. Ok, to be more precise: two big ones and one small. Let's start with the latter.   I. EXPRESSION   A blend of volatile aromatic materials extracted from a ... (more)

How do we get natural ingredients to be used in perfume?

The Different Company Adjatay: Tuberose vs LeatherThe Different Company Adjatay: Tuberose vs Leather

Niche Perfumery 11/06/16 08:40 (6 comments)

The Different Company introduced their new perfume Adjatay at Esxence in Milan this spring. Some time ago an official presentation of the perfume was held in Moscow where we had a chance to talk with the brand owner Luc Gabriel and the perfumer who created Adjatay, Alexandra Monet . Adjatay is built around an opposition of two accords – tuberose and leather. Both of them are very popular subjects in perfumery, but The Different Company, as usual, prepared some... (more)

A perfect blend of tuberose and leather in the new perfume by The Different Company.

 A Glass of Milk With A Bun: Breakfast Fragrances A Glass of Milk With A Bun: Breakfast Fragrances

Raw Materials 11/05/16 03:32 (25 comments)

Very often, colleagues working in related disciplines do not take each other too seriously, underestimating each other's professional expertise. Physicists make jokes about chemists, violinists sneer at trombonists, etc. Flavor chemistry – working on gustatory properties of food – is closely related to perfumery. Perfumers often look at flavorists haughtily, referring to them as plodders doing things far from creativity. On the other hand, flavorists consider perfum... (more)

Mat explains about main sources of foody and milky scents.

Incense Perfumes and Recent NewsIncense Perfumes and Recent News

Raw Materials 11/04/16 04:53 (5 comments)

The aromatic resin extracted from the Boswellia tree known as olibanum or frankincense is one of the most ancient fragrant materials known to humankind. Its aromatic properties have been exploited since the Late Stone Age, about 15 thousand years ago. It was treasured as gold by Egyptians, Greeks, Romans and Arabs. For the name perfume itself ( per fumum, through smoke ) we have to thank incense. The price of good natural incense resins has never been cheap, even in modern times. Duri... (more)

A long history of incense in perfumery.

Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle: A Review of Each Scent in the CollectionÉditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle: A Review of Each Scent in the Collection

Niche Perfumery 11/03/16 09:15 (25 comments)

The appearance of "the fragrance publishing house" by Frédéric Malle came as a natural reaction to the situation in the perfume business, where business was the main word. Éditions de Parfums offered perfumers an opportunity to reveal their true artistic potential without focusing on marketing and sales. Using a metaphor of writing, I'd say that these perfume masters of the highest degree - such as Dominique Ropion , Maurice Roucel ,... (more)

"Éditions de Parfums offered perfumers an opportunity to reveal their true artistic potential without focusing on marketing and sales."

Pineapple Water for Marilyn Monroe: New from A Lab On FirePineapple Water for Marilyn Monroe: New from A Lab On Fire

Niche Perfumery 10/31/16 14:36 (2 comments)

Looking out the window at the gloomy weather, I miss summer days so much. In my eager desire to make the summer last a little longer, my hand reaches for perfumes. There is a custom which dictates that chypre fragrances are suitable for autumn and spicy warm orientals are to be worn in winter. Customs are challenges to be overridden, if only because there is no cold winter in the Middle East and rich orientals are worn there even in the hottest of weather.   The new... (more)

Two new, easy perfumes by A Lab On Fire.

Visiting Lorenzo Villoresi: Boutique, Garden and Much MoreVisiting Lorenzo Villoresi: Boutique, Garden and Much More

Columns 10/17/16 12:12 (One comment)

Lorenzo Villoresi 's brand doesn't indulge their fans with news too often. In fact, it seems like it doesn't seek to give a lot of perfume information at all: plans for the opening of a museum and an academy have already been postponed for several years, and their fragrances were launched without any special events or tributes for the general public. On the 8th of September 2016, on the eve of the Pitti Fragranze exhibition in Florence, the  Fr... (more)

The Fragrantica Russia team visited the Lorenzo Villoresi boutique and shares their impressions with you

The Language of Scent, Part 1 of 5The Language of Scent, Part 1 of 5

Columns 10/15/16 09:48 (14 comments)

Becoming a fragrance fan essentially requires one to learn a new language and there is quite a bit of specialized terminology that we use to talk about perfumes, from the process of creation, to how we wear them. Many of these terms can be easily confused and so Fragrantica's international writers present a 5 part series to help us all build our vocabulary and clarify misconceptions. Today, Matvey Yudov of Russian Fragrantica discusses 4 sets of often misunderstood terms.... (more)

Mat explains essential oil vs absolute, maturation vs maceration, anosmia vs accommodation, and concentration vs strength.

Chanel №5 and №5 L’Eau: A BreakthoughChanel №5 and №5 L’Eau: A Breakthough

Columns 09/30/16 14:06 (9 comments)

It is unbelievable that Chanel №5, being the most famous and the best selling perfume in the world for already dozens of years, has not fouled itself with tons of limited editions and modifications of all sorts. There have been just a few. Initially, Number Five appeared in 1921 as parfum , soon after Eau de Cologne followed. Some time later  Eau de Toilette was made. The author of all three versions was legendary Ernest Beaux . Ernest Beaux managed to make the fir... (more)

A review of the newest Chanel and some clarification about other Chanel No 5 launches.

APSU – I'm so green!APSU – I'm so green!

Fragrance Reviews 09/28/16 22:35 (3 comments)

I am sure you've heard more than once in a perfume store: "What perfumes do you prefer? Fresher ones?" Perfume freshness is an ambiguous sensation, which could serve as a separate subject for discussion, but we'll leave it for later. It is funny how for the second year in a row I've been attracted to a fresh grassy green perfume at the perfume exhibitions I visit. In April, I chose Vague de Folie Verte by Le Cercle des Parfumeurs Créateurs, an Ant... (more)

Review of the best perfume at Pitti Fragranze, to my opinion.

UÈR MÌ : Two New FragrancesUÈR MÌ : Two New Fragrances

New Fragrances 08/19/16 07:32 (One comment)

The last Esxence offered a proud moment for the amazing Cecile Zarokian : her  OR  ±  White  and  OR ± Cashmere  for Uer Mi had earned a lot of attention and praise. Both of them were developed by Zarokian but they were not the only scents being presented that spoke to her expertise:  Green Water  for Jacques Fath (Sergey has described it already) also earned a positive reception for returning to... (more)

Matvey and Julietta talk about novelties by Uer Mi

Peonies in Perfumery and CultivationPeonies in Perfumery and Cultivation

Raw Materials 08/12/16 09:34 (22 comments)

Not so long ago at the Moscow Botanical Garden there was an exposition of peonies with dozens of cultivars including garden hybrids and itoh-hybrids. I visited this exposition and today I want to share with you my photos of these beautiful flowers and to talk a bit about the story of the cultivation and development of peonies and their aromas. I also will mention the difference of the smell from cultivar to cultivar. Peony  ( lat. Paeónia ) — i... (more)

A brief review of the history and analysis of a 'peony' note in perfumery with numerous photo examples.

Metallic Scent In PerfumeryMetallic Scent In Perfumery

Raw Materials 08/10/16 15:20 (25 comments)

From time to time, when experiencing perfumes or household product smells, we notice a metallic aspect. People often call it a "metallic" smell, saying it smells like metal or steel. But does metal have a smell? To perceive a smell it has to be volatile; molecules have to physically fly into your nose, come into contact with a receptor and launch a chain of biochemical processes that the brain interprets as a certain type of odor. But it does not seem that metals are excessive... (more)

What is hidden behind a metallic accord?

D&G Light Blue: Fright & Repulsion In Light BlueD&G Light Blue: Fright & Repulsion In Light Blue

Raw Materials 08/02/16 23:15 (28 comments)

It is no secret that different people perceive smells differently. Our cultural and family background play a big role in it: some love the smell of licorice and anise (Ouza and Sambuca, yeey!), while others are instantly reminded of a nightmare of fevers and colds in bed in their childhood, and this anis-tasting syrup, brrrr! It is hard for anyone to incorporate the smell of mint into perfumery, because mint is about toothpaste, lavender is a moth repellent, citrus for Americans ... (more)

Celebrating the 15th anniversary of D&G Light Blue!

Where Does Cashmere Wood Grow?Where Does Cashmere Wood Grow?

Raw Materials 07/29/16 13:44 (16 comments)

Cashmeran is a compound without which we could hardly imagine modern perfumery. In the last few years, we see the word "cashmeran" more often in official press releases, although it's still mentioned in a much more mysterious manner as Cashmere Wood (there is no such tree), Cashmere Musk or Blond Woods . Cashmeran was synthesized for the first time in 1968 by John Hall of IFF. Yes, it is the same person who gave Iso E Super to mankind. Cashmeran... (more)

Cashmeran and its fellow odorants in our favorite perfumes.

27 87 - A New Brand From Barcelona27 87 - A New Brand From Barcelona

Niche Perfumery 07/06/16 08:09 (One comment)

  27 87 is a very new perfume project, introduced at the beginning of this year in Milan. Its founder, the charming  Romy Kowalewski, lives in Barcelona. She decided to name her perfume brand after her birth date to define her audience: young people, a generation which is often called lost or narcissistic. Romy invited celebrated hit-makers, who have experience in and enjoy creating unconventional fragrances: Mark Buxton (who is behind m... (more)

Review of 3 perfumes by 27 87.

Sunshine FragrancesSunshine Fragrances

Raw Materials 06/25/16 03:11 (7 comments)

The summer officially started a few days ago in the Northern Hemisphere. Our sun is so important for all of us, we glorify it in myths, poems, paintings and music. Perfumes have also been made in its honor, as well as synthetic fragrant materials. You most probably have already used seasonal novelties by different brands. Many “sunny”, ”sunrise”, “sunshine” flankers appear every time summer starts. There is even an American brand named... (more)

Heliotropin and Helional in our favorite fragrances.

Partial Anosmia, Olfactory Adaptation or Why I Do Not Smell Partial Anosmia, Olfactory Adaptation or Why I Do Not Smell

Raw Materials 06/23/16 09:24 (26 comments)

The public outcry from the appearance of Escentric Molecules perfumes has surpassed all expectations . To be honest, Geza Schoen's idea is very appealing to me; I am sure he wanted to manifest austere elegance of individual synthetic materials. But marketers didn't find this idea very engaging; their lack of knowledge was the cause of silly, tongue-twisting "pheromone-aphrodisiac" incantations which all the same were extremely effective in the selling of... (more)

What is the secret of "insensible" Escentric Molecules and such?

Calone: The Air of the 1990sCalone: The Air of the 1990s

Raw Materials 06/20/16 07:55 (15 comments)

Every generation has its own perfume mark in time. For the 1990s it would be one of the greatest trends, a hankering for watermelony freshness.  One single perfume ingredient, Calone 1951 , is responsible for the appearance of the entire new perfume family of aquatic scents. It was first synthesized by J. J. Beereboom, D. P. Cameron and C. R. Stephens from Pfizer in 1966. Very often in chemistry while searching for one thing, another is discovered. Germ... (more)

The main trend at the end of the 20th century from a chemist's point of view.

Tonka Beans and CoumarinTonka Beans and Coumarin

Raw Materials 06/17/16 05:58 (18 comments)

It is quite difficult to say what ingredient was the first synthetic material to be used in perfumery. The first "experimental" synthetic materials were narrow fractions of essential oils and isolates, individual materials which were isolated from natural sources. Benzaldehyde, which possesses a smell of bitter almond, is sometimes considered among the first synthetic fragrant substances. But much more often this memorable milestone is associated with the substance called Co... (more)

"Fougère Royale was about 10% coumarin. From that very moment we begin the modern era in perfume history."

The Life Span of a Perfume: Mixing and AgingThe Life Span of a Perfume: Mixing and Aging

Columns 06/14/16 20:17 (37 comments)

How and where we should keep perfumes to prolong their lives? This question is asked countless times on our international Forums. Collectors intend to preserve their perfumed treasures as long as possible. For the most impatient and curious readers I will immediately repeat copybook maxims ahead of our further exploration: main enemies of any perfume product are sunlight, oxygen, humid enviroment, heat and big differences in air temperature. Therefore, keep your perfumes in thei... (more)

"Imagine, how many different developments happen inside a perfume of dozens of active compounds?!"

Forbidden Smell is Sweet: IFRA and Fragrance SafetyForbidden Smell is Sweet: IFRA and Fragrance Safety

Raw Materials 06/04/16 05:42 (38 comments)

  People pay much attention to safety and protection and the field of perfumery is no exception, of course – hardly anyone would like to spread carcinogens on a daily bais over his or her skin. Discussions the dangers of perfumery mostly come down to two statements, which even on superficial consideration seem to be mutually exclusive: on the one hand, the unhealthy fashion of the healthy lifestyle and passion for everything marked “100% natural and bio-organic&rdqu... (more)

What IFRA is and how it works.

Curium [Cm 96] nu_be: RadioactivityCurium [Cm 96] nu_be: Radioactivity

Niche Perfumery 05/22/16 06:51 (3 comments)

" Radioactivity discovered by Madame Curie"  - for the first time this catchy song by Kraftwerk was introduced to the world back in 1975. This phrase betrays the legendary German electronic musicians lack of knowledge that radioactivity, as a matter of fact, was discovered by Antoine Henri Becquerel in 1896. Kraftwerk - Radioactivity Marie Skłodowska Curie, the first woman to win a Nobel Prize twice for multiple sciences, is considered the founder o... (more)

A fragrant tribute to Marie Skłodowska Curie.

"Signature Perfumes" and "My Perfume Self"

Columns 05/20/16 11:11 (21 comments)

Very often, while sorting out our perfume preferences, the Fragrantica team mentions the idea of a "signature perfume". However, through our own internal discussion we concluded that we mean different things when we talk about this. Moreover, a few of us distinguish a signature scent from "perfume self" and even "perfume identity". Let's discuss and find out what do signature, perfume self and perfume identity actually mean?   ... (more)

What do we mean by it?

Indole: The Maestro Is DecomposingIndole: The Maestro Is Decomposing

Raw Materials 05/19/16 16:03 (21 comments)

You might have noticed the word Indole in discussions about jasmine, lilies and other white flowers, with either good or bad connotation. Sometimes it is even used as a euphemism for an unpleasant odor. But not many of you have come across pure indole in real life. It comes in a form of a gray powder. Let's find out what indolе is . In the book The Perfect Scent: A Year Inside the Perfume Industry in Paris & New York , Chandler Burr re-tells Jean-Clau... (more)

Indole smells of despair and decay...a good start for a review, isn't it?

Renegades: Geza Shoen, Mark Buxton & Bertrand DuchaufourRenegades: Geza Shoen, Mark Buxton & Bertrand Duchaufour

Niche Perfumery 04/30/16 05:50 (9 comments)

Matvey Yudov : Becoming a perfumer is a long process. Firstly, future perfumers learn about ingredients, and only after they are able to distinguish them by their smell, they start mixing simple accords and combinations. After being able to identify components of simple compositions, students start mixing monoaromas, then learn different perfume genres.  After graduating from school, a perfumer rarely starts his/her independent perfume career, ... (more)

"Today's heroes, being already famous for numerous hits for different perfume brands, also declined work for big corporations and entirely immersed themselves into a creative process full of challe...

Aldehydes in Perfumery MythologyAldehydes in Perfumery Mythology

Raw Materials 04/15/16 08:45 (24 comments)

  What are aldehydes in fact? The answer is not as simple as it may seem. Ask a sophisticated perfume lover and they will tell you all about synthetic materials with a smell that is hard to describe, which once made Chanel No. 5 so unusual, abstract and ground-breaking. A chemist or even an ordinary high school student studying chemistry won’t think long and will tell you that an aldehyde is an organic compound containing the –CHO group, or ald... (more)

"It is important to understand that aldehydes are not artificial substances, results of human work. Lots of them occur in nature."

Esxence 2016: The Last Day & Final ReflectionsEsxence 2016: The Last Day & Final Reflections

Art Books Events 04/04/16 19:45 (2 comments)

Valery Mihalitsyn : It was a day of final conclusions, revisiting of favorites, but still for some last-minute discoveries. I found several delightful roses: The elegant Italian In Flora by Bottega Profumiera , and Odora di Femina by Poulage . The latter is a notable example of a rose amber perfume with an alluring trail of ambroxan-musk. Very feminine, and hardly for guys. David Jourquin has become my last-moment finding at Esxence. I knew the brand and had b... (more)

We still have time for discoveries: Unusual ouds, perfumers' personal creations and the tuberose-leather trend.

Esxence 2016: More Findings from Day 3!Esxence 2016: More Findings from Day 3!

Art Books Events 04/04/16 14:42 (3 comments)

Evgeniya Chudakova : I had many meetings the third day of the show, which will result in publishing interviews and news very soon. Although they took the most of my time, I still was lucky enough to find perfumes which are worth a good review. I promise I'll do just that. Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi introduced to me their outstanding L'Attesa: everytime I remember its delicate sensual touches I have chills running down my ... (more)

Deeper into the exhibition's hallways exploring Roses, noses, and a new book from Michael Edwards!

Esxence 2016: Second DayEsxence 2016: Second Day

Art Books Events 04/02/16 06:35 (2 comments)

Juliett Ptoyan : Esxence continues! The second day was much more active and productive than the first one: some booths could finally be reached! It was much more crowded, and there were long lines to get to some brands, like, for example, Masque Milano . Along with Esxence itself, we also tried to visit all the interesting events surrounding it, organized by niche stores and boutiques in Milan: a beautiful presentation was held yesterday in Campomarzio 70 at Via B... (more)

News, stories, impressions after the second day of Esxence.

Esxence 2016: Trends & Favorites of the First DayEsxence 2016: Trends & Favorites of the First Day

Art Books Events 04/01/16 01:09 (4 comments)

  Fragrantica team in front of the entrance of ESXENCE, 2016. Evgeniya Chudakova : It was our first day in the crowded venue of Esxence, but we can already predict from the perceived trends and discoveries what we will see on the shelves in perfume stores. After the Pitti Fragranze event of 2015, many of us agreed that tobacco would find some development in future releases. Now at Esxence, I can't say that loud tobacco is that popular. It ... (more)

First impressions of the show.

The History of Iso E Super in PerfumeryThe History of Iso E Super in Perfumery

Raw Materials 03/22/16 15:48 (34 comments)

Among other synthetic perfumery ingredients, Iso E Super stands out a little. This enigmatic ingredient has given rise to numerous rumors and legends: allegedly it has some pheromonic qualities, makes you extremely attractive to the opposite sex, enhances the body’s unique scent and greatly improves the esthetic qualities of other fragrances. Let us dispel the illusion. The history of Iso E Super began in the 1960s. Many scientists around the world studied aroma ch... (more)

"The smell of this ingredient has made a huge difference to the world of modern perfumery and largely defined its directions."

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