Iso E Super

Group: Chemical Components

Iso E Super® is the trademark name of aromachemical 7-acetyl, 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-1,1,6,7-tetramethyl naphthalene and you can easily guess why the short code-name was invented for use instead of its long organic chemistry name. According to International Fragrances and Flavors who produce and patented Iso E Super smells:

The biggest surprise however comes when someone smells Iso E Super in isolation: how almost non-existent a smell Iso-E Super has (not something one would describe as a concrete smell) and at the same time how unapologetically synthetic, perhaps vaguely cedar-like, slightly sweet, nuanced, even peppery in combination with other notes it smells when you really notice it. It seems to vanish very quickly and yet resurface on skin in intervals from time to time, very discreetly: The heat of the skin is intergral to its volatilising properly and it seems that any test on paper would not give an accurate perception of its true nature.

This is the secret behind one of the most infamous fragrances of the niche market: Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules is actually nothing more but a dilution of Iso E Super in perfumer's alcohol in the right ratio by perfumer Geza Schoen. The 1990 composition created a mini cult, supposedly because the ingredient smells like the natural aura of a person, rather than a perfume, a sexy pheromonic-like aura, thus acting as a powerful attractant. Escentric 01 by the same perfumer, in the same perfume line which also boasts other fragrances featuring Iso E Super as well, goes further and uses the popular synthetic material into a more fledged "composition", adding lime, lemon, iris and pink pepper, while still retaining the dominant role of the aromachemical.

Iso E Super is prized by many contemporary perfumers indeed (notably minimalist Jean Claude Ellena) thanks to the diffusion, lasting power and versatility it gives in perfume creation. Beyond the woody nuances, it pairs well with musks, flowers and even fruits.
Popular fragrances that utilize the synthetic in good effect and significant ratio are the fragrances in the British niche line Ormonde Jayne, several of the Hermessences (Poivre Samarcande notably), Terre d'Hermes as well as Declaration (all developed by perfumer Jean Claude Ellena), Feminite du Bois by Shiseido/Serge Lutens and Fahrenheit by Christian Dior.

Although Iso E Super is extremely popular, the International Fragrance Association has examined its properties for potential allergenic and skin sensitizing negative effects and decided to ration its use. Taking up to 10% of the fragrance formula was recommended for use in a variety of products according to IFF in 2002, but recent developments effectuated in 2010-2011 have lowered that level to 21.4% in the final compound to be further diluted in alcoholic products.

Iso E Super hasn't told its final word yet...
 

Author: Elena Vosnaki is a historian & perfume writer from Greece and a Writer to Fragrantica. She is the founder and editor of Perfume Shrine, one of the most respected independent online publications on perfume containing fragrance reviews, industry interviews, essays on raw materials and perfume history, a winner in Fragrantica Blog Awards and a finalist in numerous blog awards contests. Her writing was recognised at the Fifi Awards for Editorial Excellence in 2009 and she has been contributing to publications around the world.
 

Perfumes and Colognes With Iso E Super