Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5135574292166
Fahrenheit Dior
1.5124196630189
Authorite Hillary Clinton
1.5019975681779
Mon Numero 10 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.5019107173875
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5010422094841
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5005211047421
Professor Portland General Store
1.5004342539517
Elsha Elsha
1.5003474031614
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.500260552371
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.500260552371
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.500260552371
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5000868507903
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5000868507903
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.5
Leather Romane
1.5
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.4982629841932
Axe Instinct Axe
1.476450552371
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4664188148341
Black Bvlgari
1.4578732282439
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4431735681779
XJ Homme Xerjoff
1.4346032697586
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4329135395171
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4305113333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4290921047421
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4290921047421
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.4284841492097
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4268119777662
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.423133139135
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4211398507903
Brown Leather Refan
1.4208363616467
English Leather Dana
1.4121124031614
Tea House Neil Morris
1.4019477099184
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.4005211047421
Qubism Emper
1.3910539426785
Gomma Etro
1.3891814189682
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3809235113775
London for Men Burberry
1.3807321521626
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3772581205489
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3769975681779
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3755211047421
O Blood Concept
1.3671881047421
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.3669830602744
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3658941205489
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3588748566962
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Dior
1.3565193081466
Kelly Caleche Hermes
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Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
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Azul Animale
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Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
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Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
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Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3348963142262
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.3346357618551
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3340278063227
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3337672539517
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.333593552371
Tobacco Blaze Rasasi
1.3335067015807
Homme Arno Sorel
1.3332461492097
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3319285395171
The Original Gap
1.3287215108563
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3250128221296
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.3240935582769
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3221712697586
Irish Leather Memo
1.3210682569046
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3178798398471
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3170175138093
Aoud Leather Montale
1.316242077992
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3153632371027
Duro Nasomatto
1.3137691184645
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3085605079034
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3062342855654
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.3060932697586
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3037248063227
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.300260552371
Beartrapper DS & Durga
1.3001737015807
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2999169110648
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.2984284950495
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.2967325869376
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.2954207618551
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2944049871461
S.T.Dupont Intese Pour Homme S.T. Dupont
1.294118
Blue Diamond Oud Bella Bellissima
1.2921881047421
Aoud S Mancera
1.2916646027445
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.2884780500261
Dior Homme Dior
1.2870167618551
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.2867562094841
Braggi Charles Revson
1.2863219555324
Men's Style Juvena
1.2863066887268
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.2861482539517
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2859823903075
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2858008507903
Venezia Giardini Secreti La Via del Profumo
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Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.2850042410978
Aleksandr Arquiste
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Lucid House of Matriarch
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Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2784675237103
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
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Derby Guerlain
1.2734218063227
Soleil de Jeddeh Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777
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Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
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Kuhuyan Parfums de Marly
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Les Nombres d’Or Cuir Mona di Orio
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Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
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Cuir 28 Le Labo
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Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
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Noir de Mars Scent on Canvas
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Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
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No7 Violette Prada
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La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
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Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
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Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
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Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
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Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
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Blood Oranges Shay & Blue London
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Nur SoOud
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Lieber Gustav Krigler
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Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
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Infanta en Flor Arquiste
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Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
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Les Garconnes Homage a Gabrielle Crazylibellule and the Poppies
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Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
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Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
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Eau Folle Guy Laroche
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Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Dior
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Karmala Avon
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Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
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Lovely Patchouli Krigler
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Fumoir Arte Profumi
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Valbonne Molton Brown
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Leather Franck Boclet
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Usain Ona Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
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Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
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Cuir X La Parfumerie Moderne
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Aoud 2 M. Micallef
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Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
1.25
Maarij Asgharali
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Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
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Pureblack Bugatti
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Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
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O Blood Concept
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No3 Cuir Amber Prada
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Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
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Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
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Wild is the Wind Atelier de Geste
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Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2414933477506
Cuir de Russie Chanel
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Trussardi Uomo Trussardi
1.2412136194198
John Varvatos John Varvatos

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