Leather

Group: MUSK, AMBER, ANIMALIC SMELLS

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leather Perfumes

1.5223744454319
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.5014812181538
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5007109847138
Farkas Alkemia Perfumes
1.5007109847138
Divine Attraction Initio Parfums Prives
1.5007109847138
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.5006517359877
Metal Hurlant Pierre Guillaume Croisiere Collection
1.5005924872615
Professor Portland General Store
1.5005924872615
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5005332385354
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5004739898092
Elsha Elsha
1.5004147410831
Couro. Leather Natura
1.5004147410831
Rue Royale Hové Parfumeur, Ltd.
1.5004147410831
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.5003554923569
Saddle Demeter Fragrance
1.5003554923569
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.5003554923569
Cuir6 Pekji
1.5002962436308
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5002369949046
Simply Jil Sander Touch of Leather Jil Sander
1.5002369949046
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5002369949046
Electric Leather Aziza World Fragrances
1.5001777461785
Tobacco Portland General Store
1.5001777461785
Dark Rose SP Parfums Sven Pritzkoleit
1.5001184974523
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.5001184974523
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5001184974523
True Grit Milton Lloyd
1.5000592487262
Diavolo Club Antonio Banderas
1.5000592487262
Shazi Khalis
1.5000592487262
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000592487262
Leather Romane
1.5
Old Leather CB I Hate Perfume
1.5
Solo Yanbal
1.5
Malaysian Suyufi Agarwood Oil Majid Muzaffar Iterji
1.5
Tom Tailor Exclusive Man Tom Tailor
1.5
Alkimia Uomo Guru Scent
1.5
Black Daniel Hechter
1.5
Leather of Dahman S.Ishira
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5
Tabacco Extreme Il Profumiere
1.4884732691077
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4801004464984
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4743357359877
Day For Night Prada
1.4645408102856
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.46230823344
Leather Oud Dua Fragrances
1.45413772082
Black Bvlgari
1.4515132385354
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.444444
Suede EcoParfum
1.4414423333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4375
Chasseur de Béotie Parfums Sophiste
1.4284525025477
Double Dare Prada
1.4191382385354
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4183181829601
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4154767401351
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.40694546688
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.4005924872615
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.4001777461785
La Panthere Eau de Parfum Edition Limitee Cartier
1.4001777461785
No. 1 Six Scents
1.4001777461785
Her Excellency White Estevia Parfum
1.4000592487262
Paname Mad et Len
1.4
Eau de Cologne Our Legacy
1.3936018299562
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.3899472028676
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3786427507999
London for Men Burberry
1.3752962436308
Cromo Natura
1.3752369949046
Rose Leather Solstice Scents
1.3751184974523
PARIS: She met him in secret Anthropologie
1.3751184974523
Next To Me Ramon Monegal
1.375
Black Essential Avon
1.3693331926769
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.3691319847138
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.36662423344
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3649394719754
Oud 777 Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777
1.3637544974523
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3633132232492
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.3617034872615
Montmartre Morph
1.3590179546155
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3576259593554
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3573207461785
Leather Musk Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3564207359877
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3557334719754
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.3554852273966
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.3534453751629
Ombre Leather 16 Tom Ford
1.3532676289845
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3530594974523
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.3530002487262
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.3521804821661
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.3512509133784
Pi Extreme Givenchy
1.3511798414504
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.3510321722953
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3505924872615
Blow Up La Folie a Plusieurs
1.349965791089
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3486572130584
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3481814923569
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.3431709898092
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3416909133784
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.3396767965399
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3395394821661
Joop! Homme Black King Joop!
1.3394812885413
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.3391655761346
Duro Nasomatto
1.3387054013509
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.3381913955445
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3345772232492
Library Solstice Scents
1.3342809796184
Sex Tape The Bohemian Society
1.3339847359877
Kolnisch Juchten Parfums Regence
1.3338662385354
Moto Oud Blackbird
1.3338069898092
Musk for Men Avon
1.3335107461785
White Leather N°17 The Master Perfumer
1.3335107461785
Diavolo Privato Antonio Banderas
1.3334514974523
Sotto Voce Music de Parfum
1.3333922487262
Evolution Musk DSH Perfumes
1.3333922487262
Marte Collezione Privata Cuoio & Patchouly Battistoni
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.333333
Yubiley Severnoye Siyanie
1.333333
Sergey Gubanov for Him Sergey Gubanov
1.333333
Conciergerie 12 Parfumeurs Francais
1.333333
Une Vie en Or pour Homme Frederic M
1.3332737512738
Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
1.3332737512738
Grey Quartz Pascal Morabito
1.3302349582889
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3276339847138
Obscuro Santa Eulalia
1.3250102181538
Bucoliques de Provence L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.324842882806
Gomma Etro
1.3237067461785
Alaïa Extrait de Parfum Alaia Paris
1.3231954974523
Dior Passage No.8 Christian Dior
1.3225721584311
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.3210975780306
Irish Leather Memo
1.3187768952483
Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.31732946688
O Blood Concept
1.3160852436308
Sara Pezzini Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3159074974523
Sardonics 2 Novaya Zarya
1.3157740958644
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.3153136187937
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.3150217410831
Leather Oudh Al Haramain Perfumes
1.3137966391753
Homme Xerjoff
1.3132622162579
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3130752181538
Be The Legend Oriflame
1.3129147410831
Og Mirko Buffini Firenze
1.3111753751629
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3105819949046
Deadwood Alkemia Perfumes
1.3104486799384
The Original Gap
1.309524
NO ± Suede UER MI
1.3078697461785
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3078104974523
Mabon Botanical Parfum Fleurage
1.307692
Dymok Cologne Alye Parusa
1.3018728216613
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3009479796184
Resist Me Liaison de Parfum
1.3004147410831
Djinn House of Orpheus
1.3002369949046
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3001184974523
Cuir Oud Il Profumiere
1.3001184974523
Endeavor Abercrombie & Fitch
1.3
Cobice Abinoam

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