Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5180338069678
Fahrenheit Dior
1.5017340584851
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5009458500828
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5006305667218
Elsha Elsha
1.5006305667218
Professor Portland General Store
1.5004729250414
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5003941042012
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5003152833609
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5002364625207
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.5002364625207
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5002364625207
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5001576416805
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5000788208402
Leather Romane
1.5000788208402
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000788208402
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4899901206747
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4893235502483
Homme Xerjoff
1.4764264625207
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4649968591472
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4602320457949
Black Bvlgari
1.4546238208402
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.4443822668874
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4332773333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4329061462127
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4298321334437
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4290439250414
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4284921791598
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4253325346418
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4240024383227
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4211318208402
Brown Leather Refan
1.4120802833609
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3906230584851
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3902598695515
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3847672046977
English Leather English Leather
1.3779381004966
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3775222668874
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3769705210058
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3760340420115
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3743865334594
London for Men Burberry
1.3684143801529
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Dior
1.366878670923
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3659218043667
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.365685341846
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3617146087333
Gomma Etro
1.3477104106566
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3454580877276
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3422720107196
Duro Nasomatto
1.3401747458816
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3354942887207
Aoud Leather Montale
1.334599742177
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3342000292425
Azul Animale
1.3339635667218
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3338059250414
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.3337271042012
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332541791598
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3292957384725
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.3284973088989
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3239997751241
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3224188719161
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3213064588161
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.3206080420115
The Original Gap
1.3159319835264
Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
1.3145920292425
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.3135288920943
La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
1.3110662574289
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3099998872074
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3084802084023
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.303592754946
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3035469378104
Blackbird House of Matriarch
1.3028375502483
Only The Brave Captain America Diesel
1.3021293710885
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3004418171357
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.3003152833609
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002364625207
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3001576416805
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2999564073461
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.2992119542839
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.2983580799243
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.297431354615
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2952214917632
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2945347586506
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2894554168046
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.2886034917632
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.2879903599748
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2866598500828
Braggi Charles Revson
1.2862657458816
Men's Style Juvena
1.2861081042012
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2857928208402
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2855191169701
Irish Leather Memo
1.2853895869788
Dior Homme Dior
1.2846005630173
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2844294588161
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.282380374399
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.282294768582
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.280182012769
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2799336087333
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2752071169701
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2735152084023
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.2731999250414
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2723981626862
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2721117533696
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.2720483929219
Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2709005667218
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2698615667218
Cuir X La Parfumerie Moderne
1.2679849505793
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2675473509104
Derby Guerlain
1.2670542541184
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.2656518500828
No7 Violette Prada
1.2654909542839
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.2651789250414
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2651001042012
Spent Musket Oil D.S. & Durga
1.2648868920943
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2633156416805
Homme Arno Sorel
1.2611831972886
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2599567001655
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.2597478463782
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2593261334437
Woo House of Matriarch
1.258844742177
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.2588019962954
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar Comme des Garcons
1.2584944897139
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2574692376448
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
1.2566731626862
Pureblack Bugatti
1.2563624221644
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2529951919287
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.2522858043667
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Dior
1.2517340584851
Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
1.2511034917632
Lovely Patchouli Krigler
1.2509458500828
Fumoir Arte Profumi
1.2508670292425
Varens Original Russian Legend Ulric de Varens
1.2505517458816
Aoud S Mancera
1.2503941042012
Valbonne Molton Brown
1.2503152833609
Usain Ona Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.2502364625207
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.2501576416805
Massimo Dutti In Black Massimo Dutti
1.2501576416805
Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
1.25
Maarij Asgharali
1.2481878043667
Cuoio Pal Zileri
1.2480322376448
Café V Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
1.2477544752897
O Blood Concept
1.2474887199496
Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2454744745015
Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
1.2448381042012
Noir de Mars Scent on Canvas
1.2437436252069
No3 Cuir Amber Prada
1.2436063126035
Lieber Gustav Krigler
1.2427392833609
Wild is the Wind Atelier de Geste
1.2425538793253
Whips and Roses Kerosene
1.2418162796563
Royal Leather Charriol

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