Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5178075752993
Fahrenheit Dior
1.5017328292376
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5009451795841
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5006301197227
Professor Portland General Store
1.5006301197227
Elsha Elsha
1.5004725897921
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5003938248267
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5003150598614
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.500236294896
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.500236294896
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.500236294896
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5001575299307
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5000787649653
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5000787649653
Leather Romane
1.5000787649653
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4899914057971
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4893215387524
Homme Xerjoff
1.476426294896
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4649902659105
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4602548613737
Black Bvlgari
1.4546237649653
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.444380478891
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4334993333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4329030730939
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4298312394455
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4290435897921
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4284922350347
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4254119514808
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4239057561437
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4211317649653
Brown Leather Refan
1.4120800598614
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3906218292376
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3906190705734
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3847629023314
English Leather English Leather
1.3779340775047
Royal English Leather Creed
1.377520478891
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3769691241336
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3760312482672
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3742042596093
London for Men Burberry
1.3684063900441
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Dior
1.3668779445495
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.365920183995
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3656838890989
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3617113679899
Gomma Etro
1.3476578323882
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3454562438563
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3422526780088
Duro Nasomatto
1.3401743547574
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3354843988658
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3345956074354
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3341994146188
Azul Animale
1.3339631197227
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3338055897921
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.3337268248267
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332542350347
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3292878601134
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.3284927271582
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3239987693762
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3224100995589
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.321302547574
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.3206052482672
The Original Gap
1.3159304190296
Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
1.3145914146188
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.3137617227473
La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
1.3117038286074
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3101675784499
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3084796496534
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3035864410838
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3035444234405
Blackbird House of Matriarch
1.3028355387524
Only The Brave Captain America Diesel
1.3021273037177
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3006743125394
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.3003150598614
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.300236294896
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3001575299307
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3000094139887
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2992110044108
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.2983181852552
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2974277227473
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2952207095148
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2945321884058
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2941014322621
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2894542993069
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.2886027095148
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.2879770617517
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2866591795841
Braggi Charles Revson
1.2862653547574
Men's Style Juvena
1.2861078248267
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2857927649653
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2855166584751
Irish Leather Memo
1.2852587838689
Dior Homme Dior
1.284425547574
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2836513282924
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2816762520479
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2801798336484
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2799303679899
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2752046584751
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2735146496534
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.2731995897921
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2723966540643
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2719831852552
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.2709001197227
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2698611197227
Cuir X La Parfumerie Moderne
1.2679802570888
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2675399754253
Derby Guerlain
1.2668971153119
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.2657012236925
Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2656511795841
No7 Violette Prada
1.2654900044108
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.2651785897921
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2650998248267
Spent Musket Oil D.S. & Durga
1.2648834278513
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2633155299307
Homme Arno Sorel
1.2611714076875
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2599553591682
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.2597434322621
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2593252394455
Woo House of Matriarch
1.2588406074354
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.258798252678
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar Comme des Garcons
1.2586340838059
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2574680642722
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
1.2566716540643
Pureblack Bugatti
1.2563516383113
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.252993068683
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.252284183995
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Dior
1.2517328292376
Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
1.2511027095148
Lovely Patchouli Krigler
1.2509451795841
Fumoir Arte Profumi
1.2508664146188
Varens Original Russian Legend Ulric de Varens
1.2505513547574
Aoud S Mancera
1.2503938248267
Valbonne Molton Brown
1.2503150598614
Usain Ona Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.250236294896
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.2501575299307
Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
1.2501575299307
Massimo Dutti In Black Massimo Dutti
1.25
Maarij Asgharali
1.248186183995
Cuoio Pal Zileri
1.2480310642722
Café V Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
1.2477521285444
O Blood Concept
1.2474621235035
Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2454897655955
Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
1.2448378248267
Noir de Mars Scent on Canvas
1.2437419489603
No3 Cuir Amber Prada
1.2436054744802
Lieber Gustav Krigler
1.2427390598614
Wild is the Wind Atelier de Geste
1.2425525942029
Whips and Roses Kerosene
1.2418123125394
Royal Leather Charriol

Popular brands and perfumes: