Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5135606592839
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.5028054632706
Homme Xerjoff
1.5016242155777
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5008121077889
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.5008121077889
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.500738279808
Professor Portland General Store
1.5005906238464
Elsha Elsha
1.5005167958656
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5004429678848
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.500369139904
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.500369139904
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5002214839424
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5002214839424
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5002214839424
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5001476559616
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.5001476559616
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.5000738279808
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5000738279808
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000738279808
Leather Romane
1.5
Armonia Cerchi Nell’Acqua
1.5
Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4899573004799
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4764114839424
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4620584976006
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.458573071244
Black Bvlgari
1.4548403119232
Wild Leather Mancera
1.4546188279808
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.4443701513474
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4338443333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4328530228867
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4326260376523
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4302573093392
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.4296784197121
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4290139678848
Lasso Jean Patou
1.428571
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.4284971720192
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4212006559616
Brown Leather Refan
1.4184108527132
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4168884839424
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.4120603119232
Tea House Neil Morris
1.4008859357697
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.4002214839424
No. 1 Six Scents
1.3931496995201
Land Of Warriors The Vagabond Prince
1.3904393875969
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3882131627907
Gomma Etro
1.3819278914729
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3776524425987
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3773624953858
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3768456995201
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3756367430786
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3711763894426
London for Men Burberry
1.3668137637505
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3658508394241
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3657031834625
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3637836559616
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.3627593691399
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3580210664452
English Leather English Leather
1.3574383119232
Le Paradis de L`Homme Hayari Parfums
1.3521671764489
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.3512550756737
O Blood Concept
1.3466800479882
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3463864211886
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3452194953858
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3348095596161
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3342302705795
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3341451077889
Azul Animale
1.3339236238464
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3337759678848
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.333702139904
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.333702139904
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3334806559616
Metropolis DSH Perfumes
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.333333
Cuir Les Sens de Marrakech
1.3332591720192
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3320378829827
The Original Gap
1.3283857958656
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.328087894426
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3262454518272
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3199763850129
Duro Nasomatto
1.3195753927649
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3189046168328
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3162319678848
Maserati Horse Passion La Martina
1.3133180022148
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.3120570321152
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3104954743448
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3104652591362
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3093852705795
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.3070983348099
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.3044783691399
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.3028054632706
Only The Brave Captain America Diesel
1.300369139904
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002214839424
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3001476559616
To Be Honest Diane Pernet
1.3001476559616
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3000833898117
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2983396028055
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.2979085917313
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.2952992476929
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2948765389443
Blackbird House of Matriarch
1.2947824518272
Aurum Intenso Natura
1.2945704470284
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2944527430786
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2942453816907
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2940655773348
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.292036139904
Qubism Emper
1.2895032155777
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.2889027316353
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.2868372063492
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2863046238464
Derby Guerlain
1.2862307958656
Men's Style Juvena
1.286083139904
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.286083139904
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2856775939461
Cuir Cannage Christian Dior
1.2853263554817
Davidoff Leather Blend Davidoff
1.2833520228867
Irish Leather Memo
1.2798655068291
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2793113373939
Dior Homme Christian Dior
1.2784824702842
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.2783773894426
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2777043783684
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2757132314507
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2756801192322
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.2752827430786
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2738390550018
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.273465279808
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.2731699678848
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2728746559616
Chasing Autumn Neil Morris
1.2728008279808
Zara Black Tag Intense Zara
1.2722633554817
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2721391306755
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2710821077889
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2708464632706
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2694724632706
Fan di Fendi Leather Essence Fendi
1.2678482476929
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.267405279808
Leather Krem Soivohle
1.2656657637505
Spent Musket Oil D.S. & Durga
1.2655919357697
Vintage Leather West Third Brand
1.2651489678848
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2650203026947
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2638100479882
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2633056559616
Homme Arno Sorel
1.2611154562569
Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2610396969361
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2608358394241
Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
1.2599845275009
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.2595345503876
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2591724197121
Woo House of Matriarch
1.2587627866371
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar Comme des Garcons

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