Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5149302685185
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.5015914351852
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5007957175926
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5007233796296
Professor Portland General Store
1.5005787037037
Elsha Elsha
1.5005063657407
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5003616898148
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5003616898148
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5003616898148
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.5002170138889
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5002170138889
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5001446759259
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.5001446759259
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.500072337963
Leather Romane
1.500072337963
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.500072337963
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5
Armonia Cerchi Nell’Acqua
1.4983362268519
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4891060138889
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.4764070138889
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4580166342593
Black Bvlgari
1.4570768287037
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4556511805556
Homme Xerjoff
1.4547620138889
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.4546896759259
Wild Leather Mancera
1.4498915694444
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4378202685185
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.4337533333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4328389398148
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4308721203704
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4296560694444
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4291497037037
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.4290050277778
Lasso Jean Patou
1.428571
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.4211976759259
Brown Leather Refan
1.4165467546296
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4128500694444
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.4120543518519
Tea House Neil Morris
1.4010127314815
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.4002170138889
No. 1 Six Scents
1.3904080972222
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3882639675926
Gomma Etro
1.3877638009259
Land Of Warriors The Vagabond Prince
1.3786206944444
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3776883472222
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3773148148148
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.376953125
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3758680555556
Vintage Leather West Third Brand
1.3755652222222
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.374927662037
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.3717504305556
London for Men Burberry
1.3667943935185
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3658061388889
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.365661462963
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.363636
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.3626096944444
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3575770277778
Le Paradis de L`Homme Hayari Parfums
1.3570032685185
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.356152037037
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.3512297453704
O Blood Concept
1.3457748935185
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3451718148148
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.337518037037
English Leather English Leather
1.337311587963
The Original Gap
1.3358263935185
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3346350833333
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3341287175926
Azul Animale
1.3340476712963
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3339117037037
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3336946898148
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.333333
Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.333333
Cuir Les Sens de Marrakech
1.333260662037
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3283753657407
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3262320416667
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3210841296296
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.32093075
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3195203842593
Duro Nasomatto
1.3186160277778
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3162230277778
Maserati Horse Passion La Martina
1.3093473472222
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.3084591064815
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.3083188657407
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3074010972222
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.3027488425926
Only The Brave Captain America Diesel
1.3007709722222
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3003616898148
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002170138889
To Be Honest Diane Pernet
1.3002170138889
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3001446759259
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3001440648148
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.299001587963
Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.2986609398148
Blackbird House of Matriarch
1.2983843888889
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.2965958703704
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.2952754074074
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2951295694444
Cuir Cannage Christian Dior
1.2947690416667
Aurum Intenso Natura
1.2943812222222
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2942405740741
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2922125972222
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2920286898148
Qubism Emper
1.2905787407407
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2899819398148
Irish Leather Memo
1.2867990694444
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.2866166574074
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2865643888889
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2862203657407
Men's Style Juvena
1.2860756898148
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2860756898148
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2855031388889
Davidoff Leather Blend Davidoff
1.2854593842593
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.2817508842593
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2812559953704
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.278911462963
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2784549490741
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2779950138889
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.2775777268519
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2770257731481
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.2762776296296
Dior Homme Christian Dior
1.2757651944444
Fan di Fendi Leather Essence Fendi
1.2734503796296
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.2731610277778
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2723256712963
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2722356296296
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.272223125
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2710657175926
King Amordad
1.2708621805556
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2673903796296
Leather Krem Soivohle
1.2663495
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2659791805556
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.2657910694444
Spent Musket Oil D.S. & Durga
1.2651400277778
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.264848587963
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.2642220138889
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2633026759259
Homme Arno Sorel
1.263231962963
Eau de Gaga 001 Lady Gaga
1.2627775648148
Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2626061111111
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.2624633981481
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2598434166667
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2591500694444
Woo House of Matriarch
1.2585820231481
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.2573330972222
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
1.2560163425926
Derby Guerlain
1.2552700833333
Blacks Club Leather Shay & Blue London
1.2520978009259
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Christian Dior

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