Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5155454189111
Fahrenheit Dior
1.5119430030475
Authorite Hillary Clinton
1.50189440738
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5009883864591
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5006589243061
Professor Portland General Store
1.5004118276913
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5004118276913
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5004118276913
Elsha Elsha
1.500329462153
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5002470966148
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5001647310765
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.5000823655383
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5000823655383
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.5000823655383
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000823655383
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5000823655383
Leather Romane
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4899909581583
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4764370966148
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4629293386047
Black Bvlgari
1.4605386504407
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.444083869533
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4436469661478
Homme Xerjoff
1.4329363735277
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4324803333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4299712141504
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4290651932296
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4284886344617
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4227034477391
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.422649063998
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4225355796887
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.4211353655383
Brown Leather Refan
1.412094462153
Tea House Neil Morris
1.4047466842929
English Leather English Leather
1.3973856707026
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3789847581748
London for Men Burberry
1.3780285876781
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3774709661478
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3773062350712
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3769767729182
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3761289113747
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3669247519974
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3657775039947
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3618378356808
Gomma Etro
1.358598809818
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Dior
1.350954370892
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3456516553826
Lucid House of Matriarch
1.3404340688576
Duro Nasomatto
1.3401995587678
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3361334283008
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
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Azul Animale
1.3340742898443
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.3339919243061
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3338271932296
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.3334977310765
Homme Arno Sorel
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332506344617
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3332506344617
Venezia Giardini Secreti La Via del Profumo
1.3286232430607
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3285936842929
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3248872350712
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.3209500079895
The Original Gap
1.3202260996623
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3167819452269
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3157841384565
Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
1.3134328577547
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.311685679351
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3112378855119
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.309956223293
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3085156553826
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3077122004777
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3057482141504
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.3056656972243
Irish Leather Memo
1.3050069243061
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.3034519452269
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.3027180627625
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3004118276913
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002470966148
Beartrapper DS & Durga
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.3
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.2989141255251
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.2987401593773
La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
1.297781940285
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.297680529528
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.2975440966148
Cuir X La Parfumerie Moderne
1.2966536424512
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2952711175356
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2944507181451
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2873843735277
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.2867023864591
Braggi Charles Revson
1.2862905587678
Men's Style Juvena
1.2861258276913
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2858787310765
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2853895576971
Dior Homme Dior
1.2849564492216
S.T. Dupont Intense Pour Homme S.T. Dupont
1.2847840498312
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2829558356808
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2800892141504
Café V Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
1.2800731593773
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2795626424512
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2786184990528
Derby Guerlain
1.2772220737995
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
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Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2759925796887
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.2732211932296
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2730695131373
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2709289243061
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2706877101557
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.2700769661478
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2696370448892
Les Nombres d’Or Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2677395546495
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.2676553864591
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
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No7 Violette Prada
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Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
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Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2651178276913
Spent Musket Oil DS & Durga
1.2650468178074
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2627950772589
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2620974910633
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.2612354830739
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.2596160498312
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2585452978338
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar Comme des Garcons
1.2575436763034
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
1.2567681624248
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2532946215304
O Blood Concept
1.2528004283008
Mon Numero 10 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2527180627625
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.2520591384565
Pureblack Bugatti
1.2519767729182
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Dior
1.2518120418417
Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
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Blood Oranges Shay & Blue London
1.2512354830739
Lovely Patchouli Krigler
1.2510707519974
Cuoio Pal Zileri
1.2508236553826
Fumoir Arte Profumi
1.2505765587678
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.2505765587678
Valbonne Molton Brown
1.250329462153
Usain Ona Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.2502470966148
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
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Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
1.2501647310765
Massimo Dutti In Black Massimo Dutti
1.2500823655383
Inyo Juniper Ridge
1.25
Maarij Asgharali
1.2496011677786
Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
1.2458648786756
Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2448558276913
Noir de Mars Scent on Canvas
1.2438499661478
No3 Cuir Amber Prada
1.2437418486121
Lieber Gustav Krigler
1.243572462153
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.2429370498312
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2425887310765
Wild is the Wind Atelier de Geste

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