Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5159332363214
Fahrenheit Dior
1.5018425058079
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.500961307378
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5006408715854
Professor Portland General Store
1.5006408715854
Elsha Elsha
1.5004005447408
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5004005447408
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5003204357927
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5002403268445
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5001602178963
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.5001602178963
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.5000801089482
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5000801089482
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5000801089482
Leather Romane
1.5000801089482
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4899604941921
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4892898131859
Homme Xerjoff
1.4764303268445
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4719790932468
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4597688803172
Black Bvlgari
1.4443433773933
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4328923333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.432816774253
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4298527431707
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.429051653689
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4284908910518
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4211331089482
Brown Leather Refan
1.4206627921173
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4202500856365
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4120854357927
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3921394043099
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3904911789634
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3846260621645
English Leather English Leather
1.3780308442682
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3775634863414
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3769226147561
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3760183384603
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3752403387006
London for Men Burberry
1.3668954163262
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3659591594969
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3657188326524
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3617092100457
Gomma Etro
1.3582851437956
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Dior
1.3481697770568
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3456290894817
Lucid House of Matriarch
1.3455005952896
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3409068244813
Duro Nasomatto
1.3401837626372
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3354819569815
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3346948521189
Woo House of Matriarch
1.3342141984299
Azul Animale
1.3340539805335
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.3339738715854
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.333813653689
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332528910518
Venezia Giardini Secreti La Via del Profumo
1.3332528910518
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3284427158536
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3225409959144
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3212364084755
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.3207525563566
The Original Gap
1.3193610621645
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3166589610671
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3158879416006
Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
1.3125196608988
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3118599258992
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.3095614474085
La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
1.3084930894817
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3052291984299
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.3038184200913
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3032442251061
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3032127547865
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.3030441400304
Irish Leather Memo
1.3023372489786
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3017495076504
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3004005447408
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002403268445
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.299891481615
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2992338521189
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.2952395252744
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2945139026676
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2917716458383
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2894010700152
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.286675307378
Braggi Charles Revson
1.2862747626372
Men's Style Juvena
1.2861145447408
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2857941089482
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2848866458383
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2846170621645
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.28426538236
Dior Homme Dior
1.2801521400304
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2798481010975
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2796116458383
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2789908364175
Derby Guerlain
1.2771036028198
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2750234668749
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.273207653689
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2724329416006
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2718990659297
Les Nombres d’Or Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2709108715854
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2706083846031
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2696315447408
Cuir X La Parfumerie Moderne
1.2694115575583
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.2668049105183
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.2666204690379
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2657135563566
Blackbird House of Matriarch
1.265667307378
No7 Violette Prada
1.265186653689
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2651065447408
Spent Musket Oil D.S. & Durga
1.2635248985821
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2633182178963
Homme Arno Sorel
1.2614090112954
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2611816147561
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.2598496069054
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2585678637347
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar Comme des Garcons
1.2576211711127
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.2576103733077
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2574962879116
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
1.2567079416006
Pureblack Bugatti
1.2563286069054
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2556665252744
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.2532043579268
O Blood Concept
1.2529640310823
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.2521629416006
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Dior
1.2517623968597
Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
1.2516822879116
Cuoio Pal Zileri
1.2512817431707
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.2512016342225
Lovely Patchouli Krigler
1.2508811984299
Fumoir Arte Profumi
1.2505607626372
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.2504005447408
Valbonne Molton Brown
1.2503204357927
Usain Ona Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.2502403268445
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.2501602178963
Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
1.2501602178963
Massimo Dutti In Black Massimo Dutti
1.25
Maarij Asgharali
1.2476587431707
Café V Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
1.24683682352
Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
1.2454632056397
Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2449791400304
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.2448445447408
Noir de Mars Scent on Canvas
1.2437822684451
No3 Cuir Amber Prada
1.2437057431707
Lieber Gustav Krigler
1.2435634357927
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.2427444357927
Wild is the Wind Atelier de Geste
1.2425835058079
Whips and Roses Kerosene
1.2416674084755
Royal Leather Charriol

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