Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5179479707887
Fahrenheit Dior
1.5018662771827
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5009737098345
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5006491398896
Professor Portland General Store
1.5004868549172
Elsha Elsha
1.500405712431
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.500405712431
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5003245699448
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5002434274586
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5001622849724
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.5000811424862
Leather Romane
1.5000811424862
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5000811424862
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.5000811424862
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000811424862
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4899367228173
Axe Instinct Axe
1.489244844531
Homme Xerjoff
1.4764334274586
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4718503885102
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4625775550146
Black Bvlgari
1.4441319896138
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4330713333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4328715517689
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4299504222655
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4290578549172
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4284898575138
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4211341424862
Brown Leather Refan
1.421062654333
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4197797176241
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4120895699448
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3952143106134
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3905118497241
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3847025439792
English Leather English Leather
1.3781052590068
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3777026140863
London for Men Burberry
1.3774342745862
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3769474196689
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3761501243103
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3669088523207
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3659891321
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3657457046414
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3617681217137
Gomma Etro
1.3585099480688
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Dior
1.3490249448231
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3456394248621
Lucid House of Matriarch
1.3403635929893
Duro Nasomatto
1.3401909974034
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3360107020448
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3347124222655
Woo House of Matriarch
1.3341444248621
Azul Animale
1.3340632823759
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.3339821398896
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3338198549172
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332518575138
Venezia Giardini Secreti La Via del Profumo
1.3332518575138
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3285253988965
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.328504401493
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.322476222655
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3223776579033
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3208052667965
The Original Gap
1.3166775647517
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3157535621551
Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
1.3143815436547
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3119678497241
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.3113210931516
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.3092885543655
La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
1.3085034248621
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3051594248621
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.3040173859137
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3035584011685
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3022964144758
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.301872027913
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.300405712431
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002434274586
Beartrapper DS & Durga
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.3
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.2997222525154
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.2992514222655
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.2988334040896
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.2964544066861
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2952539948069
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2943981269068
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2879686916586
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.2866877098345
Braggi Charles Revson
1.2865031295034
Irish Leather Memo
1.2862819974034
Men's Style Juvena
1.286119712431
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2857951424862
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2857385835768
Dior Homme Dior
1.2849496916586
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2846935439792
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2815644144758
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2800291295034
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2795935491723
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2795002667965
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2789598107757
Derby Guerlain
1.2772653417722
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2761328497241
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.2753299948069
Café V Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
1.273286823434
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2732138549172
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2724608471276
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2719176501136
Les Nombres d’Or Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2709191398896
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2702827572217
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.269636712431
Cuir X La Parfumerie Moderne
1.2667945751379
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.2660400308341
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2656797098345
No7 Violette Prada
1.2651928549172
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.265111712431
Spent Musket Oil DS & Durga
1.264395475495
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2633202849724
Homme Arno Sorel
1.2617687848101
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2599312564103
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.258632976631
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar Comme des Garcons
1.257536401493
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.2575179922103
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
1.2568713599481
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2567358471276
Pureblack Bugatti
1.2555998523207
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.253164556962
O Blood Concept
1.2528399870172
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.2520285621551
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Dior
1.2517851346965
Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
1.2515417072379
Cuoio Pal Zileri
1.2514605647517
Blood Oranges Shay & Blue London
1.2512982797793
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.2512171372931
Lovely Patchouli Krigler
1.2508925673483
Fumoir Arte Profumi
1.2505679974034
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.2504868549172
Valbonne Molton Brown
1.2503245699448
Usain Ona Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.2502434274586
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.2501622849724
Massimo Dutti In Black Massimo Dutti
1.2501622849724
Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
1.2500811424862
Inyo Juniper Ridge
1.25
Maarij Asgharali
1.2494098289516
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2476277348264
Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
1.2457055410581
Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.244849712431
Noir de Mars Scent on Canvas
1.2438132745862
No3 Cuir Amber Prada
1.2437222797793
Lieber Gustav Krigler
1.2435675699448
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.2427485699448
Wild is the Wind Atelier de Geste
1.241737689062
Royal Leather Charriol
1.24110180753
John Varvatos John Varvatos

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