Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

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Authorite Hillary Clinton
1.5104062997988
Fahrenheit Dior
1.5049183992846
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.5022356360385
Mon Numero 10 L Artisan Parfumeur
1.501453163425
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5006706908115
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5001117818019
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5001117818019
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5001117818019
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5001117818019
Resurrextion X-Ray
1.5001117818019
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.4986586183769
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4765253454058
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4690144178404
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.4668911171473
Black Bvlgari
1.4337632539683
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4293534726135
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.4293534726135
Mon Numero 4 L Artisan Parfumeur
1.4292416908115
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4241193333333
Shalimar Guerlain
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Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.4172259090096
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.4154969199642
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.4128849443327
English Leather Dana
1.4111030724346
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.4015649452269
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.4013413816231
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4001556174827
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.3996015166555
Private Blend: Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.397265817125
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3909470538788
The Original Gap
1.386068163425
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3829640724346
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.381555746926
London for Men Burberry
1.3764498426112
Kelly Caleche Hermes
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Gomma Etro
1.3756706908115
Statement Etienne Aigner
1.3754471272077
Linfedele 1003 O`Driu
1.3659834178404
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.3577503082942
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.3483896360385
Knize Ten Gold Edition Knize
1.3467129090096
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3441892490499
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.340487035323
MV3 M∙A∙C
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XJ Homme Xerjoff
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Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
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Sienna DSH Perfumes
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Homme Arno Sorel
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Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
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Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Dior
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Aoud Leather Montale
1.3290228692153
Duro Nasomatto
1.3223906722558
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.3204339991057
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3189188904538
Dirty Rose DSH Perfumes
1.3184055636038
Sara Pezzini Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3177019371786
Dzing! L Artisan Parfumeur
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Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
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Private Label Jovoy Paris
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Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
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Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
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Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.2968370447127
Dior Homme Dior
1.2949918895596
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.2945707084731
Nostalgia Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
1.2937882358596
Diorling Dior
1.2917096360385
Pureblack Bugatti
1.2872789452269
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.285609490275
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.2841672358596
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2828705812654
Only The Brave Iron Man Diesel
1.2824728356808
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.2800136360385
Complex Boadicea the Victorious
1.2790075998211
No7 Violette Prada
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Les Nombres d’Or Cuir Mona di Orio
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Det. Patric Gleason Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
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Paradoxe Pierre Cardin
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Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
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Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
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Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2633291996423
R Revillon
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Diavolo Antonio Banderas
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Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.257363143975
Accord Oud Byredo
1.2573599946345
Cuir de Russie Chanel
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Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Dior
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Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.2559800724346
Cuir de Russie L.T. Piver
1.2557959434384
Trussardi Uomo Trussardi
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Cuir Fetiche Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
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Cumming Alan Cumming
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Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
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Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
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Gotham Neil Morris
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Espionage Ayala Moriel
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Azul Animale
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Tabac Blond Caron
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The Exclusives Warrioress Boadicea the Victorious
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Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
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Cuir Blanc Evody Parfums
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Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
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Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
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Private Blend: Japon Noir Tom Ford
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Les Garconnes Homage a Gabrielle Crazylibellule and the Poppies
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John Varvatos John Varvatos
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Noir Patchouli Histoires de Parfums
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Royal Delight Creed
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PG03 Cuir Venenum Parfumerie Generale
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Kouros Energizing 2010 Yves Saint Laurent
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Allure Pour Homme Chanel
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Seigneur Galimard
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Knize Sec Knize
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Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
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CH Men Carolina Herrera
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Cuero Mujer La Martina
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Piper Leather Illuminum
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Black Superdry
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Cabochard Gres
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Rien Etat Libre d`Orange
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Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
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Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
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Hummer Hummer
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Habanita Molinard
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Gucci pour Homme Gucci
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Royal Leather Charriol
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Je Suis un Homme Etat Libre d`Orange
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Cuir Mauresque Serge Lutens
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Ambré Baldessarini
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Aigner pour Homme Etienne Aigner
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Fete Molyneux
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Bois Velours Esteban
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The Secret Antonio Banderas
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Aoud S Mancera
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Kept MCMC Fragrances
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O Blood
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Gentlemen Lee Cooper Originals
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No3 Cuir Amber Prada
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Salvador Salvador Dali
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Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
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Only The Brave Diesel
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Aqua Fahrenheit Dior
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Knize Ten Knize
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Boss Spirit Hugo Boss
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H.O.T. Always Bond No 9
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Nur SoOud
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Whips and Roses Kerosene
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Bullion Byredo
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Haute Couture Mila Schön
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Silver Shadow Private Davidoff
1.2136859452269
Baladin Parfums de Nicolaï

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