Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.515589650165
Fahrenheit Dior
1.511798679868
Authorite Hillary Clinton
1.501897689769
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5009900990099
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5006600660066
Professor Portland General Store
1.5004125412541
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5004125412541
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5004125412541
Elsha Elsha
1.5003300330033
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5002475247525
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5001650165017
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.5001650165017
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5000825082508
Leather Romane
1.5000825082508
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000825082508
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.498102310231
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4764375247525
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4634297161716
Black Bvlgari
1.4603883333333
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4440052145215
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4434862310231
XJ Homme Xerjoff
1.4329439372937
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4324603333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.429973640264
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.429066049505
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4285384950495
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4284884917492
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4234420330033
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4225381485149
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.4211355082508
Brown Leather Refan
1.4120950330033
Tea House Neil Morris
1.4048396105611
English Leather English Leather
1.3982117062706
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3780385775578
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3774752475248
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3772277227723
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3769801980198
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.376138009901
London for Men Burberry
1.3761359042904
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.375495049505
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.3673270660066
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.3669266072607
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3657812145215
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.361845970297
Gomma Etro
1.3586186468647
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Dior
1.3577012145215
Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
1.3511409834983
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3456530825083
Lucid House of Matriarch
1.3402005577558
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3361382805281
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3341580825083
Azul Animale
1.3340755742574
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.3339930660066
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.333828049505
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.3334980165017
Homme Arno Sorel
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332504917492
Venezia Giardini Secreti La Via del Profumo
1.3332504917492
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.328634660066
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3286041023102
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3264851485149
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3248912310231
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.3235219372937
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.3202472211221
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3199969207921
The Original Gap
1.3176941485149
Duro Nasomatto
1.3131502805281
La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
1.3114571881188
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3112565808581
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.3103963366337
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3098557128713
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3085170825083
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3074790693069
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3056702640264
Irish Leather Memo
1.3056681320132
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.3051789207921
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.3034546567657
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.3027227722772
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3004125412541
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002475247525
Beartrapper DS & Durga
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.3
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.2990885610561
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.2977979240924
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.2975445247525
Cuir X La Parfumerie Moderne
1.2962173135314
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.2952731155116
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2942918382838
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2867040990099
Braggi Charles Revson
1.2862915577558
Men's Style Juvena
1.2861265412541
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2858790165017
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.285517039604
Dior Homme Dior
1.2849628712871
S.T. Dupont Intense Pour Homme S.T. Dupont
1.2847946105611
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.282963970297
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2801608052805
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2798441155116
Café V Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
1.2795699207921
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2786354818482
Derby Guerlain
1.2773374059406
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.276441970297
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2760776567657
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.2735862706271
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2709300660066
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2706039174917
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.2700812475248
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2700256732673
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
1.2693308448845
Les Nombres d’Or Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2676570990099
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.2657786072607
No7 Violette Prada
1.265201049505
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2649768349835
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2644965181518
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2639691947195
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.2628038283828
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2620245445545
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.2592965775578
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2583889867987
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar Comme des Garcons
1.2567939933993
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2534653465347
O Blood Concept
1.2528052805281
Mon Numero 10 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2527227722772
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.2519801980198
Pureblack Bugatti
1.2519801980198
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Dior
1.2518151815182
Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
1.2514851485149
Blood Oranges Shay & Blue London
1.2510726072607
Lovely Patchouli Krigler
1.2510726072607
Cuoio Pal Zileri
1.2508250825083
Fumoir Arte Profumi
1.2505775577558
Valbonne Molton Brown
1.2505775577558
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.2503300330033
Usain Ona Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.2502475247525
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.2501650165017
Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
1.2501650165017
Massimo Dutti In Black Massimo Dutti
1.2500825082508
Inyo Juniper Ridge
1.25
Maarij Asgharali
1.2497429768977
Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
1.2448565412541
Noir de Mars Scent on Canvas
1.2442588283828
Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2438542475248
No3 Cuir Amber Prada
1.2437441320132
Lieber Gustav Krigler
1.2435730330033
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.2425890165017
Wild is the Wind Atelier de Geste
1.2425350693069
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2420648349835
John Varvatos John Varvatos
1.2412530033003
Royal Leather Charriol

Popular brands and perfumes: