Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5187427280328
Fahrenheit Dior
1.5017352894778
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5009465215334
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5006310143556
Professor Portland General Store
1.5006310143556
Elsha Elsha
1.5004732607667
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5003943839722
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5003155071778
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5002366303833
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5002366303833
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5002366303833
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.5001577535889
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5000788767944
Leather Romane
1.5000788767944
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5000788767944
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4899888337277
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4893255646001
Homme Xerjoff
1.4764266303833
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4650034617448
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4602880746174
Black Bvlgari
1.4546238767944
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.4443840574223
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4333893333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4329092236946
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4298330287112
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4290442607667
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4284921232056
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4253702514592
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4239415041805
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4211318767944
Brown Leather Refan
1.4120805071778
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3906242894778
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3902945425146
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3847715131724
English Leather English Leather
1.3779421292002
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3775240574223
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3769719198612
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3760368397224
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3746354551191
London for Men Burberry
1.3684223816059
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Dior
1.3668793983278
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.365923427039
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3656867966556
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3617178540779
Gomma Etro
1.3504377404953
Duro Nasomatto
1.3475264331914
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3454599342168
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3401751375611
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3355041926171
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3346038827891
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3342006447389
Azul Animale
1.3339640143556
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3338062607667
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332541232056
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3285018971447
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3240007823
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3224276567282
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3213103756113
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.3206657512226
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.3206108397224
The Original Gap
1.3159335502445
Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
1.3145926447389
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.3133746076668
La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
1.3110927237735
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3096139118157
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3084807679445
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3035990777725
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3035494557501
Blackbird House of Matriarch
1.3028395646001
Only The Brave Captain America Diesel
1.3021314413945
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3004456220224
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.3003155071778
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002366303833
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.3
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.2999033254457
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.2992129055056
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.2972772380502
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2963969080297
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2952222751223
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2945373325446
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2894565358889
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.2886042751223
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.287924800284
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2866605215334
Braggi Charles Revson
1.2862661375611
Men's Style Juvena
1.2861083839722
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2857928767944
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2855215789557
Irish Leather Memo
1.2851261918284
Dior Homme Dior
1.2846047595835
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.284196745228
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2822515491402
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2801841949834
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2799368540779
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2798969165484
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2752095789557
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2735157679445
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.2732002607667
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2723996734501
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2719008230005
Cuir Mona di Orio
1.271767243256
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.2709010143556
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2698620143556
Cuir X La Parfumerie Moderne
1.267554736867
Derby Guerlain
1.2670538624389
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.2656525215334
No7 Violette Prada
1.2654919055056
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.2651792607667
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2651003839722
Spent Musket Oil D.S. & Durga
1.2648903612557
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2633157535889
Homme Arno Sorel
1.260958373245
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2599580430667
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.2598311435558
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2593270287112
Woo House of Matriarch
1.2588488827891
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.258805745228
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar Comme des Garcons
1.2583546974286
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2574704126834
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
1.2566746734501
Pureblack Bugatti
1.2563732213283
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.252997318189
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.252287427039
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Dior
1.2517352894778
Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
1.2511042751223
Lovely Patchouli Krigler
1.2509465215334
Fumoir Arte Profumi
1.2508676447389
Varens Original Russian Legend Ulric de Varens
1.2503943839722
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.2503943839722
Valbonne Molton Brown
1.2503155071778
Usain Ona Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.2502366303833
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.2501577535889
Massimo Dutti In Black Massimo Dutti
1.2501577535889
Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
1.25
Maarij Asgharali
1.248189427039
Cuoio Pal Zileri
1.2480334126834
Café V Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
1.2477568253668
O Blood Concept
1.2475153541568
Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2463980717779
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.2453014081085
Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
1.2448383839722
Noir de Mars Scent on Canvas
1.2437453038334
No3 Cuir Amber Prada
1.2436071519167
Lieber Gustav Krigler
1.2427395071778
Wild is the Wind Atelier de Geste
1.2425551662723
Whips and Roses Kerosene
1.2420774043224
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2418202524057
Royal Leather Charriol

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