Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5158608559289
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.5029354963306
Homme Xerjoff
1.5017767477791
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5008497489378
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5006179992275
Elsha Elsha
1.5006179992275
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5006179992275
Professor Portland General Store
1.5004634994206
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5003862495172
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5002317497103
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5002317497103
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.5002317497103
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5001544998069
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5000772499034
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000772499034
Leather Romane
1.5000772499034
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4899490023175
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4764217497103
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4649659884125
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4604877636153
Black Bvlgari
1.4546222499034
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.44433199691
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4333883333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4328197446891
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.429806998455
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4290344994206
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4284937500966
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4263586095017
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4226539420626
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4211302499034
Brown Leather Refan
1.4120739996138
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3954917439166
Gomma Etro
1.3905884978756
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3865109146389
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3846462425647
English Leather English Leather
1.3779022429509
Royal English Leather Creed
1.37747199691
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3769312475859
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3761099949788
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3721027006566
London for Men Burberry
1.3681897361916
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3668582487447
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3658762471997
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3656444974894
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3479136570104
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3454062468134
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3402409992275
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.33975298146
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3344834928544
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3341827489378
Azul Animale
1.3339509992275
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3337964994206
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.3337192495172
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332557500966
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3324332159135
Duro Nasomatto
1.3290742363847
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.3283684920819
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3241259980688
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3223267346466
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3212737431441
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.3205294951719
The Original Gap
1.3160424971031
Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
1.3123229926613
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.3120418215527
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3084644990344
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3068947033604
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3036307454616
Blackbird House of Matriarch
1.3034152390885
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3029354963306
Only The Brave Captain America Diesel
1.3019167466203
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3003862495172
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002317497103
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3001544998069
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2977247489378
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.297531998455
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.2974079544226
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.2966790007725
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.2963609304751
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2951994986481
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2944624955581
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2939817423716
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2894239980688
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.2885042487447
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.2874141035149
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2862547493241
Men's Style Juvena
1.2861002495172
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2858684998069
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2821947721128
Dior Homme Christian Dior
1.2820442255697
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2799104924681
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2798424943994
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2766194963306
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2763956987254
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2752924955581
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2750812456547
Irish Leather Memo
1.2734994990344
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.2731904994206
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2723557473928
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2722207435303
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2709347717265
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.2708879992275
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2699262491309
Cuir X La Parfumerie Moderne
1.2656329988413
No7 Violette Prada
1.2654642483584
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.2652467493241
Spent Musket Oil D.S. & Durga
1.2651694994206
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2647894940131
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2641389803013
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2635359822325
Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2633124998069
Homme Arno Sorel
1.2626874870606
Derby Guerlain
1.2603379795288
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2600734974894
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.259700992275
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.259300998455
Woo House of Matriarch
1.2589602425647
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.2586967435303
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar Comme des Garcons
1.2585309683275
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2574362479722
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
1.2559324959444
O Blood Concept
1.2544274913094
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2530899961375
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.252556992275
La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
1.2521629972963
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Christian Dior
1.2518539976825
Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
1.2510814986481
Lovely Patchouli Krigler
1.2509764955581
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.2508497489378
Varens Original Russian Legend Ulric de Varens
1.2505407493241
Aoud S Mancera
1.2504634994206
Valbonne Molton Brown
1.2503089996138
Usain Ona Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.2502317497103
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.2501544998069
Massimo Dutti In Black Massimo Dutti
1.2501544998069
Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
1.25
Maarij Asgharali
1.2481422471997
Cuoio Pal Zileri
1.2464239540363
Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2448302495172
Noir de Mars Scent on Canvas
1.2443638891464
Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
1.2439282468134
No3 Cuir Amber Prada
1.2435827485516
Lieber Gustav Krigler
1.2434647473928
Pureblack Bugatti
1.2431724816531
Accord Oud Byredo
1.2427329996138
Wild is the Wind Atelier de Geste
1.2422859980688
Whips and Roses Kerosene
1.2417819930475
Royal Leather Charriol
1.2408144974894
Cuir Blanc Evody Parfums

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