Leather

Group: MUSK, AMBER, ANIMALIC SMELLS

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leather Perfumes

1.5178934716423
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.501539503664
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5008005419053
Divine Attraction Initio Parfums Prives
1.5007389617587
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.5006158014656
Professor Portland General Store
1.500554221319
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.500554221319
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5004926411725
Elsha Elsha
1.5004310610259
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.5003694808794
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.5003694808794
Saddle Demeter Fragrance
1.5003079007328
Couro. Leather Natura
1.5003079007328
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5002463205862
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5002463205862
Electric Leather Aziza World Fragrances
1.5001231602931
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5001231602931
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.5001231602931
True Grit Milton Lloyd
1.5000615801466
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000615801466
Leather Romane
1.5000615801466
White Leather N°17 The Master Perfumer
1.5
Leather of Dahman S.Ishira
1.5
Alkimia Uomo Guru Scent
1.5
Tabacco Extreme Il Profumiere
1.5
Black Daniel Hechter
1.5
Solo Yanbal
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5
Old Leather CB I Hate Perfume
1.5
Malaysian Suyufi Agarwood Oil Majid Muzaffar Iterji
1.488376717655
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4763747404397
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.474238221319
Day For Night Prada
1.4627802058624
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4615995801466
Shazi Khalis
1.4578364852516
Black Bvlgari
1.4571424973828
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4522903816122
Metal Hurlant Pierre Guillaume Croisiere Collection
1.451534221319
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.444444
Suede EcoParfum
1.4415443333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4375
Chasseur de Béotie Parfums Sophiste
1.4286941602931
Oud Mazzolari
1.4286941602931
Magnat Ésika
1.428571
Double Dare Prada
1.4277623271137
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4184809080608
Pi Extreme Givenchy
1.4172828014656
Kolnisch Juchten Parfums Regence
1.4163841818462
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4006158014656
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.4003694808794
Blow Up La Folie a Plusieurs
1.4001847404397
No. 1 Six Scents
1.4001231602931
Her Excellency White Estevia Parfum
1.4001231602931
La Panthere Eau de Parfum Edition Limitee Cartier
1.4
Eau de Cologne Our Legacy
1.4
Mr. Idol BZ Parfums
1.3960917632243
Oud 777 Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777
1.3851076411725
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3832325696164
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.3831111830778
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.375405786009
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.3753079007328
Cromo Natura
1.3752463205862
Rose Leather Solstice Scents
1.3751231602931
Spectre Noir Rallet
1.3750615801466
PARIS: She met him in secret Anthropologie
1.3723464178213
London for Men Burberry
1.3690368014656
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3685760065275
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.3666545419053
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3659144654227
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3637591602931
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3636642575282
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.363636
Conciergerie 12 Parfumeurs Francais
1.3617883816122
Montmartre Morph
1.358974
Black Essential Avon
1.3575740610259
Musk for Men Avon
1.3543510237084
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.3534275337767
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3530641602931
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.352941
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.352667221319
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.3522131220519
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.3516549918714
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3499786631566
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3487248242503
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3481954808794
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.3478300735267
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3475087632243
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.3440498014656
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3436855492333
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3433466648808
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.341176
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3368849652072
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.3351508902026
Duro Nasomatto
1.3345030227847
Library Solstice Scents
1.334318282345
Sex Tape The Bohemian Society
1.333887221319
Moto Oud Blackbird
1.3337024808794
Love Shot Ex Nihilo
1.3335177404397
Diavolo Privato Antonio Banderas
1.3333945801466
Details For Him Nazareno Gabrielli
1.3333945801466
Marte Collezione Privata Cuoio & Patchouly Battistoni
1.3333945801466
Evolution Musk DSH Perfumes
1.333333
Sergey Gubanov for Him Sergey Gubanov
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.333333
Une Vie en Or pour Homme Frederic M
1.3332714198534
Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
1.3310019609582
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.3279467095264
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.326618572018
Gomma Etro
1.326539503664
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3257389617587
No. XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.3256107925365
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3255306143851
Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3255009918714
Homme Xerjoff
1.3237137404397
Alaïa Extrait de Parfum Alaia Paris
1.3232617404397
Dior Passage No.8 Christian Dior
1.3173900838106
O Blood Concept
1.3161582359751
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.3160969007328
Sara Pezzini Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3159121602931
Sardonics 2 Novaya Zarya
1.3150390227847
Be The Legend Oriflame
1.3149633816122
Oudh Al Junaid Junaid Jamshed
1.314814793337
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.3147708771476
Irish Leather Memo
1.3142951220519
Resist Me Liaison de Parfum
1.3128079007328
Rock Sabe Masson
1.3128079007328
Og Mirko Buffini Firenze
1.3119689621282
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.3103647249831
Vertigo Cuir Kyse Perfumes
1.3103305874746
The Original Gap
1.309524
NO ± Suede UER MI
1.3095026029312
Mimosa Indigo Atelier Cologne
1.3094921961328
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3085405337767
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.3080614808794
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3078151602931
Mabon Botanical Parfum Fleurage
1.307692
Dymok Cologne Alye Parusa
1.3061718014656
Obscuro Santa Eulalia
1.3038480455693
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.303716793337
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3019560602254
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3012435337767
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3005734426381
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3002463205862
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3
Gymkana Jean Dessès
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2990212441037
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.2963789918714
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.2957064117249
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2941795801466
Vive l'Empereur! Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.294118
Put Vejini Dzintars

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