Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5162964403192
Fahrenheit Dior
1.501872659176
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5009770395701
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5006513597134
Professor Portland General Store
1.5004070998209
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5004070998209
Elsha Elsha
1.5004070998209
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5003256798567
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5002442598925
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5001628399284
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.5000814199642
Leather Romane
1.5000814199642
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000814199642
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5000814199642
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5000814199642
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4900117607881
Axe Instinct Axe
1.489254278782
Homme Xerjoff
1.4764342598925
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4615392359551
Black Bvlgari
1.4607669361667
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4440583390327
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4328862581013
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4328303333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.429955139391
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4290595197851
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4284895800358
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4221707331054
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4211344199642
Brown Leather Refan
1.4198179303045
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4120906798567
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3960030985182
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3903545593552
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.384723077349
English Leather English Leather
1.3786298340661
London for Men Burberry
1.3781252374206
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3774425989253
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3769540791402
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3760825782446
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3669124595343
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3659971789611
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3657529190686
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.361783937958
Gomma Etro
1.3584673750204
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Dior
1.3499232672203
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3456421996418
Lucid House of Matriarch
1.3402914883569
Duro Nasomatto
1.3401929397492
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.336101278782
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.334717139391
Woo House of Matriarch
1.3341471996418
Azul Animale
1.3340657796776
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.3339843597134
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3338215197851
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332515800358
Venezia Giardini Secreti La Via del Profumo
1.3332515800358
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.328606077349
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.328547597134
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3248607589969
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.3223605539814
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3208194181729
The Original Gap
1.3202489946263
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3166825593552
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3157604991044
Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
1.3130655036639
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3111954352711
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.3089756384954
La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
1.3085061996418
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3071710836997
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3051621996418
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.3038864559518
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3035153992835
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.3022667752809
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.301981278782
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3004070998209
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002442598925
Beartrapper DS & Durga
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.3
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.299256139391
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.2988517176356
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.2968507430386
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.2952578794985
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2944100584595
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.292776937958
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2877413579222
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.2866910395701
Braggi Charles Revson
1.286350278782
Irish Leather Memo
1.2862839397492
Men's Style Juvena
1.2861210998209
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2857954199642
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.284714077349
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2843990587852
Dior Homme Dior
1.2831461978505
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2814121187103
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2800391187103
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2795144181729
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2787502356294
Derby Guerlain
1.2771674316887
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2766241978505
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2761383992835
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.2753338794985
Café V Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
1.2739125539814
Les Nombres d’Or Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2732155197851
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2730118031265
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2709213597134
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2696380998209
Cuir X La Parfumerie Moderne
1.2686966028334
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.2676440395701
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.2667103803941
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.2656830395701
No7 Violette Prada
1.2654724694675
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2651945197851
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2651130998209
Spent Musket Oil DS & Durga
1.2635262699886
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2633208399284
Homme Arno Sorel
1.2625226573848
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.26174147305
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2599531771698
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.258650457743
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar Comme des Garcons
1.2575238192477
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
1.2567433390327
Pureblack Bugatti
1.2565970135157
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2556034595343
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.2531753786028
O Blood Concept
1.2530125386745
Mon Numero 10 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2528496987461
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.2520354991044
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Dior
1.2517912392119
Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
1.2514655593552
Blood Oranges Shay & Blue London
1.251384139391
Cuoio Pal Zileri
1.2512212994626
Lovely Patchouli Krigler
1.2508956196059
Fumoir Arte Profumi
1.2505699397492
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.2504885197851
Valbonne Molton Brown
1.2503256798567
Usain Ona Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.2502442598925
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.2501628399284
Massimo Dutti In Black Massimo Dutti
1.2501628399284
Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
1.2500814199642
Inyo Juniper Ridge
1.25
Maarij Asgharali
1.249268077349
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2475896008793
Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
1.2457537033057
Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2448510998209
Noir de Mars Scent on Canvas
1.2438215989253
No3 Cuir Amber Prada
1.2437267194268
Lieber Gustav Krigler
1.2435686798567
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.2427496798567
Wild is the Wind Atelier de Geste
1.2417565575639
Royal Leather Charriol

Popular brands and perfumes: