Leather

Group: MUSK, AMBER, ANIMALIC SMELLS

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leather Perfumes

1.5153914954209
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.5015681846694
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5007527286413
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.5006272738678
Professor Portland General Store
1.500564546481
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.500564546481
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5005018190942
Elsha Elsha
1.5004390917074
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.5003763643207
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.5003136369339
Saddle Demeter Fragrance
1.5003136369339
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5001254547736
True Grit Milton Lloyd
1.5001254547736
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5001254547736
Electric Leather Aziza World Fragrances
1.5001254547736
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5001254547736
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.5000627273868
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000627273868
Leather Romane
1.5
Old Leather CB I Hate Perfume
1.5
Alkimia Uomo Guru Scent
1.5
Malaysian Suyufi Agarwood Oil Majid Muzaffar Iterji
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5
Suede EcoParfum
1.4767116344248
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4763781821603
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.471152546481
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.4628260954711
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4623534560281
Divine Attraction Initio Parfums Prives
1.4566425247773
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4563750673692
Black Bvlgari
1.4412283333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4375
Chasseur de Béotie Parfums Sophiste
1.4211705652992
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4172942738678
Kolnisch Juchten Parfums Regence
1.4164112751223
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.4132784403463
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4006272738678
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.4004390917074
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4001881821603
No. 1 Six Scents
1.4001254547736
Her Excellency White Estevia Parfum
1.4
Eau de Cologne Our Legacy
1.3960542751223
Oud 777 Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777
1.3837025954084
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.3754528228579
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.3750627273868
Spectre Noir Rallet
1.3682172022331
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.3680994516372
London for Men Burberry
1.3680494585372
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3666694560281
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3659808247397
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3637614547736
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3615500917074
Montmartre Morph
1.3559381154184
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.3535682738678
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.353535374357
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3530664547736
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.3522291834149
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.3516224635554
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3500344723372
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3487580942165
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3482023643207
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.3475340025091
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.3463668190942
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.3439868528416
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3406775058336
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3345987800778
Duro Nasomatto
1.3343366381884
Sex Tape The Bohemian Society
1.3340857286413
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.333897546481
Moto Oud Blackbird
1.3335211821603
Diavolo Privato Antonio Banderas
1.3333957273868
Evolution Musk DSH Perfumes
1.333333
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.333333
Une Vie en Or pour Homme Frederic M
1.3332702726132
Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
1.3325855527537
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.3321485775938
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.330684825367
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3285593428679
Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3268525540083
Homme Xerjoff
1.3265681846694
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3260833881571
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3257527286413
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.325
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3248300087818
Gomma Etro
1.3235264648099
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.3232651821603
Dior Passage No.8 Christian Dior
1.3219401972149
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.3174199120562
O Blood Concept
1.3161026369339
Sara Pezzini Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3159144547736
Sardonics 2 Novaya Zarya
1.314850546481
Oudh Al Junaid Junaid Jamshed
1.3143111834149
Resist Me Liaison de Parfum
1.3140408203488
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3139806381884
Be The Legend Oriflame
1.3128763643207
Rock Le Soft Perfume
1.3128136369339
Og Mirko Buffini Firenze
1.3114180967256
The Original Gap
1.3102782763769
Vertigo Cuir Kyse Perfumes
1.3100894660645
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.309524
NO ± Suede UER MI
1.3085856469703
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.3080683643207
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3067961004893
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3055746406975
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3053076494794
Irish Leather Memo
1.3049504014553
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.3048769509472
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3046219195835
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3007527286413
Terryfic Oud Extrême Terry de Gunzburg
1.3002509095471
Larrea La Curie
1.3002509095471
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3
Gymkana Jean Dessès
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2993950150546
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.2990533668298
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.2964719183289
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.2953750100364
English Leather English Leather
1.2951455540083
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2941807273868
Vive l'Empereur! Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.294118
Cuir Les Sens de Marrakech
1.2922972901769
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2908540025091
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.2904484547736
Cuir Rouge Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.2863412738678
Brown Leather Refan
1.2863001078911
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2860903643207
Elaborate Boadicea the Victorious
1.2860276369339
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2850253111278
Dior Homme Christian Dior
1.2843216230084
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.2825672751223
Horoof Arabian Oud
1.28125
Ghair Anfasic Dokhoon
1.2811826432066
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.280564546481
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.279634546481
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2785411909422
Fan di Fendi Leather Essence Fendi
1.2780289095471
1000 Miglia Extreme Chopard
1.277778
Foxhunt D.S. & Durga
1.2767355778447
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2760154572826
Agarwood Collection Intricate Boadicea the Victorious
1.2756441972149
Davidoff Leather Blend Davidoff
1.274672185924
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.2742086758249
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2728524547736
Smoke Show Vilhelm Parfumerie
1.2727897273868
Cuir Le Galion
1.272727
Dreaming Parallel Ayala Moriel
1.2720890942165
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2715527537323
Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2707090917074
Cuir Sensuel Daniel Hechter
1.2696858577343
CH Men Carolina Herrera

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