Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5140751566485
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.5028840315726
Homme Xerjoff
1.5016697024894
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5008348512447
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.500758955677
Professor Portland General Store
1.500758955677
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.5006071645416
Elsha Elsha
1.5005312689739
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5004553734062
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5003794778385
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5003794778385
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.5003035822708
Wild Leather Mancera
1.5002276867031
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5002276867031
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5002276867031
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.5002276867031
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5001517911354
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.5001517911354
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.5000758955677
Leather Romane
1.5000758955677
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5000758955677
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5
Armonia Cerchi Nell’Acqua
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4899815063752
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4764176867031
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4619374681239
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4602699635701
Black Bvlgari
1.4546208955677
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.4444404493018
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4338253333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4328970473588
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4300037850638
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4297094335155
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4290263734062
Lasso Jean Patou
1.428571
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.4284951044323
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4225412659381
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4211288955677
Brown Leather Refan
1.4120685822708
Tea House Neil Morris
1.4112034298725
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.400758955677
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.4002276867031
No. 1 Six Scents
1.3955582119004
Gomma Etro
1.3904828069217
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3845632938676
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3777274808743
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3774286581664
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3768973891925
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3759636739526
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3713615318761
London for Men Burberry
1.370940332119
English Leather English Leather
1.3680719617486
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3668406423801
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3658369714633
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3656092847602
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3464661183971
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3453615537341
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3449797911354
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.3403278002429
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3402301645416
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.334850911354
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3343832720097
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3341678512447
Azul Animale
1.3339401645416
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3337883734062
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.3337124778385
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.3337124778385
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3334847911354
Metropolis DSH Perfumes
1.333333
Cuir Les Sens de Marrakech
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332571044323
Lye Maison Gabriella Chieffo
1.3332571044323
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3330893794778
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.332147465088
The Original Gap
1.3282574365513
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3262640601093
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3238228221008
Duro Nasomatto
1.3236333794778
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.3212534808743
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.3195781863995
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3162443734062
Maserati Horse Passion La Martina
1.3140213005464
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3138683855495
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3125995409836
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.3085956193078
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3028840315726
Only The Brave Captain America Diesel
1.3003794778385
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002276867031
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3001517911354
To Be Honest Diane Pernet
1.3001517911354
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2988767783849
Blackbird House of Matriarch
1.2984502902247
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.2979375379478
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.2975103290832
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.2968416265938
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.2965941961141
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.2955032653309
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2951805379478
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2948010601093
Aurum Intenso Natura
1.2945519872495
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2943301232544
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2937691378264
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2933725124469
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.2912337468124
Vintage Leather West Third Brand
1.2902714875531
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2895487024894
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.2887902246509
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.2863319587128
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2862452689739
Men's Style Juvena
1.2860934778385
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2860934778385
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2859416867031
Derby Guerlain
1.2850027024894
Davidoff Leather Blend Davidoff
1.2828647783849
Irish Leather Memo
1.2817701979356
Dior Homme Christian Dior
1.2798398384942
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2787556065574
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.277800287796
Cuir Cannage Christian Dior
1.2766439271403
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.275762822708
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.2752301961141
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2741791833637
Eau de Gaga 001 Lady Gaga
1.2737644541591
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.273485955677
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.2731823734062
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2728787911354
Chasing Autumn Neil Morris
1.272727
Zara Black Tag Intense Zara
1.2723950758956
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2722058986035
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.271028955677
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2701073982999
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2700579714633
Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
1.2670464778385
Leather Krem Soivohle
1.2658965980571
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.2653890601093
Spent Musket Oil D.S. & Durga
1.2651613734062
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2649332119004
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2640903825137
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2635144711597
Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2633097911354
Homme Arno Sorel
1.2628854839101
Derby Guerlain
1.2621430315726
Fan di Fendi Leather Essence Fendi
1.2619401797207
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2600382847602
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.2596685409836
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2592034335155
Woo House of Matriarch
1.2589095853066
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar Comme des Garcons
1.2588559587128
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.2574078069217
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin

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