Leather

Group: MUSK, AMBER, ANIMALIC SMELLS

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leather Perfumes

1.5202210793738
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.5015287714792
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5008561120284
Divine Attraction Initio Parfums Prives
1.50073381031
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.5006115085917
Professor Portland General Store
1.5005503577325
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5005503577325
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5004892068734
Elsha Elsha
1.5004280560142
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.500366905155
Saddle Demeter Fragrance
1.500366905155
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.5003057542958
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5003057542958
Couro. Leather Natura
1.5002446034367
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5002446034367
Electric Leather Aziza World Fragrances
1.5001834525775
Tobacco Portland General Store
1.5001223017183
True Grit Milton Lloyd
1.5001223017183
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.5001223017183
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5000611508592
Leather Romane
1.5000611508592
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000611508592
White Leather N°17 The Master Perfumer
1.5
Solo Yanbal
1.5
Black Daniel Hechter
1.5
Leather of Dahman S.Ishira
1.5
Alkimia Uomo Guru Scent
1.5
Malaysian Suyufi Agarwood Oil Majid Muzaffar Iterji
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5
Tabacco Extreme Il Profumiere
1.5
Old Leather CB I Hate Perfume
1.4883224353941
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4874163360851
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4763734525775
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4742343577325
Day For Night Prada
1.4615991508592
Shazi Khalis
1.4597357647526
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4571751764814
Black Bvlgari
1.4524079611692
Metal Hurlant Pierre Guillaume Croisiere Collection
1.4515915085917
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.444444
Suede EcoParfum
1.4420703333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4375
Chasseur de Béotie Parfums Sophiste
1.4345576632422
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4286933017183
Magnat Ésika
1.428571
Double Dare Prada
1.4175932081575
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4006115085917
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.400366905155
Blow Up La Folie a Plusieurs
1.4001834525775
Her Excellency White Estevia Parfum
1.4001834525775
No. 1 Six Scents
1.4001223017183
La Panthere Eau de Parfum Edition Limitee Cartier
1.4
Mr. Idol BZ Parfums
1.4
Eau de Cologne Our Legacy
1.3960211680426
Oud 777 Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777
1.3857191666972
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.3851042068734
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3831021680426
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.375388185226
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.3753057542958
Cromo Natura
1.3752446034367
Rose Leather Solstice Scents
1.3750611508592
Diavolo Club Antonio Banderas
1.3750611508592
PARIS: She met him in secret Anthropologie
1.3727485786094
London for Men Burberry
1.3702137498318
Pi Extreme Givenchy
1.3690325085917
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3666489611692
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3658985817893
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3637583017183
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3637417580872
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.363636
Conciergerie 12 Parfumeurs Francais
1.3624839191586
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3617836594509
Montmartre Morph
1.358974
Black Essential Avon
1.3546667897633
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.3533871807619
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3530633017183
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.3529691120284
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.352941
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.3522071120284
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.3499108357488
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3491482757904
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3487735257751
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.348192905155
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.3474993189017
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.3440455085917
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3436585041277
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3418814092827
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.3413356217208
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.341176
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3395235244298
Duro Nasomatto
1.3392554780163
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.3383473704519
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.336416382254
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.3344337154651
Library Solstice Scents
1.3343114137467
Sex Tape The Bohemian Society
1.3339445085917
Kolnisch Juchten Parfums Regence
1.3338833577325
Moto Oud Blackbird
1.3337610560142
Musk for Men Avon
1.3335164525775
Diavolo Privato Antonio Banderas
1.3333941508592
Marte Collezione Privata Cuoio & Patchouly Battistoni
1.3333941508592
Evolution Musk DSH Perfumes
1.3333941508592
Details For Him Nazareno Gabrielli
1.333333
Une Vie en Or pour Homme Frederic M
1.333333
Sergey Gubanov for Him Sergey Gubanov
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332718491408
ÔIKB Santi Burgas
1.3332718491408
Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
1.32573381031
No. XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.3254662195927
Homme Xerjoff
1.3249966594509
Oudh Al Junaid Junaid Jamshed
1.3247732756069
Gomma Etro
1.3246224907356
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3239615110377
Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3237124525775
Alaïa Extrait de Parfum Alaia Paris
1.3232604525775
Dior Passage No.8 Christian Dior
1.3173789223384
O Blood Concept
1.3172352539595
Irish Leather Memo
1.3160947542958
Sara Pezzini Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3159891419311
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.3159113017183
Sardonics 2 Novaya Zarya
1.3151981916468
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.3150308663242
Be The Legend Oriflame
1.3147757281844
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.3142891120284
Resist Me Liaison de Parfum
1.3128057542958
Og Mirko Buffini Firenze
1.3128057542958
Rock Sabe Masson
1.3103501292118
Vertigo Cuir Kyse Perfumes
1.3103086938176
The Original Gap
1.309524
NO ± Suede UER MI
1.3089948350761
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3085001807619
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.308058905155
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3078143017183
Mabon Botanical Parfum Fleurage
1.307692
Dymok Cologne Alye Parusa
1.3039223316211
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3018968185654
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3004892068734
Love Shot Ex Nihilo
1.3002446034367
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3
Gymkana Jean Dessès
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2994937326484
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.2994823189017
Mimosa Indigo Atelier Cologne
1.2991315257751
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.2963442195927
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.2956720687336
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2950526549869
Cuir 28 Dubai Le Labo
1.2942947154651
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.2941791508592
Vive l'Empereur! Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.294118
Cuir Les Sens de Marrakech
1.294118
Put Vejini Dzintars

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