Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5140723791746
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.5014764817549
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5007733952049
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.50070308655
Professor Portland General Store
1.50056246924
Elsha Elsha
1.500492160585
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.50042185193
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.500351543275
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.500351543275
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.500210925965
Leather N10Z Intense
1.500210925965
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.50014061731
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.50014061731
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.50014061731
Armonia Cerchi Nell’Acqua
1.500070308655
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.500070308655
Leather Romane
1.500070308655
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5
Electric Leather Aziza World Fragrances
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4982422836251
Axe Instinct Axe
1.489099925965
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.476400925965
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.46210046924
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4583973434578
Black Bvlgari
1.4572167288898
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.454755925965
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.4497825818744
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4393457009773
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4391494140477
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.43764061731
Wild Leather Mancera
1.4336533333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4296256298249
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.42913346924
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.428571
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.42119361731
Brown Leather Refan
1.4134995875694
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4128196298249
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.41204623462
Tea House Neil Morris
1.4008437038599
Mon Habit Rouge Taillé sur Mesure Guerlain
1.400210925965
No. 1 Six Scents
1.396184543275
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.3913858279547
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.3903654817549
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3853059635098
Homme Xerjoff
1.3786179145047
Gomma Etro
1.3777420375448
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3769686423399
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3758437038599
Vintage Leather West Third Brand
1.375
Abolition Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.374929691345
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.3742158378682
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3726242471349
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.3713240568094
London for Men Burberry
1.3699012377839
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.3667680125149
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3664499270196
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3656046423399
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3656046423399
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.36391723462
Oudh Al Junaid Junaid Jamshed
1.3624282846797
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3621016069043
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3511952471349
O Blood Concept
1.3475601730999
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.3465502723054
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3451068769599
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3434417664346
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3406039291289
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3347391730999
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3343539405892
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3341063952049
Azul Animale
1.33389546924
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.333825160585
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.33347361731
Seaward Herbalife
1.33347361731
Eau de Tobago Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.333403308655
Evolution Musk DSH Perfumes
1.333333
Montmartre Morph
1.333333
Cuir Les Sens de Marrakech
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.333333
Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
1.333262691345
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3327700500598
The Original Gap
1.3311439395346
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.3297463256697
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.328501777895
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3279140750896
English Leather English Leather
1.3272356058497
Irish Leather Memo
1.326213777895
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.31860385193
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3181030542783
Duro Nasomatto
1.3148331866695
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.3113480500598
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3094763837446
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.3091546486677
Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3082964212895
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.30797323462
Cuir Insolite Welton London
1.3073584817549
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.3042243336849
Vertigo Cuir Perfumes by Terri
1.3026717288898
Only The Brave Captain America Diesel
1.30064253076
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.300210925965
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.30014061731
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2974644515925
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.2962888980525
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2947564974337
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.294610160585
Aurum Intenso Natura
1.2937415203544
Cuir Cannage Christian Dior
1.2923232326513
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.292018543275
Qubism Emper
1.2866152231597
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2865571637489
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2863562721648
Davidoff Leather Blend Davidoff
1.286206160585
Men's Style Juvena
1.286065543275
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.286065543275
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.285714
Elaborate Boadicea the Victorious
1.2853179270196
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.2850745328693
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.2848566308796
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2844986673698
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2829709128173
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.2815851981298
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2808641064473
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2806015693595
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.27791861731
Foxhunt D.S. & Durga
1.27791861731
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.2776161616396
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2771600750896
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.2769790990649
Blacks Club Leather Shay & Blue London
1.2769790990649
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.2768159155593
Derby Guerlain
1.27628385193
Love Rose Reminiscence
1.2734410076636
Dior Homme Christian Dior
1.27343008655
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.273219160585
Oud 777 Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777
1.27314885193
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2729408644449
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.27286761731
Rock Le Soft Perfume
1.2723884577797
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2722386423399
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2716477664346
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.2715806548548
Land Of Warriors The Vagabond Prince
1.2711065557899
Woo House of Matriarch
1.2710433952049
King Amordad
1.2707830375448
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2683948654995
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2680105067848
Fan di Fendi Leather Essence Fendi
1.2665012471349
Agarwood Collection Intricate Boadicea the Victorious
1.2664522252689
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2659012471349
Spent Musket Oil D.S. & Durga

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