Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5167507273301
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.5016130163406
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5007714425977
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5007013114524
Professor Portland General Store
1.5005610491619
Elsha Elsha
1.5004909180167
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.5004909180167
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5003506557262
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5003506557262
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5002103934357
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5002103934357
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5001402622905
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.5001402622905
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.5001402622905
Armonia Cerchi Nell’Acqua
1.5000701311452
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000701311452
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5000701311452
Leather Romane
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5
Electric Leather Aziza World Fragrances
1.4983168525142
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4890993934357
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.4764003934357
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4620990491619
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4586181249737
Black Bvlgari
1.4572099835192
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4549000488814
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4547553934357
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.4454026381233
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.4378506557262
Wild Leather Mancera
1.4377975698156
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4341893333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4296229671786
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4291320491619
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.428571
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.4211932622905
Brown Leather Refan
1.4145173527597
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4128169671786
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.4122559180167
Oud 777 Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777
1.412045524581
Tea House Neil Morris
1.4008415737429
Mon Habit Rouge Taillé sur Mesure Guerlain
1.4002103934357
No. 1 Six Scents
1.3961836557262
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.3913749998597
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.3903617540501
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3858595572621
Homme Xerjoff
1.3787455736026
Gomma Etro
1.3777351146644
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3769636720668
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3759117048881
Vintage Leather West Third Brand
1.3756521062487
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.375
Abolition Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.3748597377095
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.3727614917596
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.3716827461954
London for Men Burberry
1.3683480977628
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.3667657048881
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3665752784908
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3657399343572
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3655996720668
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.363916524581
Oudh Al Junaid Junaid Jamshed
1.3624183441335
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3620748029315
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3513324917596
O Blood Concept
1.3476968851953
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.3458708501297
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.345171327793
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3434280981836
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3376223108914
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3347356229048
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3343924749982
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3341044425977
Azul Animale
1.3338940491619
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3338239180167
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.3336485079599
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.3334732622905
Eau de Tobago Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.3334732622905
Seaward Herbalife
1.3334031311452
Evolution Musk DSH Perfumes
1.333333
Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.333333
Montmartre Morph
1.333333
Cuir Les Sens de Marrakech
1.3332628688548
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.332802519251
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3327608195526
The Original Gap
1.3285001803072
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3279703604741
English Leather English Leather
1.3262121803072
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3206280490217
Irish Leather Memo
1.3186027868714
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3177692286275
Duro Nasomatto
1.309949606424
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3094623604741
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.3082754751385
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3079840643804
Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.307972524581
Cuir Insolite Welton London
1.3073547540501
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.3042896720668
Vertigo Cuir Perfumes by Terri
1.3026649835192
Only The Brave Captain America Diesel
1.3006439508381
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3002103934357
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3001402622905
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2985559997195
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.2974882294691
Russisch Leder Farina
1.2974140453749
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2966809987376
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.2951281141034
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2946089180167
Aurum Intenso Natura
1.2941249340767
Derby Guerlain
1.2931702276457
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2920176557262
Qubism Emper
1.2905642783505
Cuir Cannage Christian Dior
1.2868395572621
Davidoff Leather Blend Davidoff
1.2866024424574
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2862049180167
Men's Style Juvena
1.2860646557262
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2860646557262
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2858047967599
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.285714
Elaborate Boadicea the Victorious
1.2853030162003
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.2850471963672
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.2849097210884
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.284489081843
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2816210486009
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2812502937092
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2807920817028
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2794160326811
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2782796720668
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.2779182622905
Foxhunt D.S. & Durga
1.2777408030717
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2769750163406
Blacks Club Leather Shay & Blue London
1.2762827868714
Love Rose Reminiscence
1.2734283114524
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.2731477868714
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2730008139421
Dior Homme Christian Dior
1.2728673606143
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.2728672622905
Rock Le Soft Perfume
1.2722336720668
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2716340981836
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.2715733769549
Land Of Warriors The Vagabond Prince
1.2711033606143
Woo House of Matriarch
1.2710414425977
King Amordad
1.2709865081001
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2706206557262
Cuir Sensuel Daniel Hechter
1.2687277702504
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2681424261168
Fan di Fendi Leather Essence Fendi
1.266550950277
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2658982294691
Spent Musket Oil D.S. & Durga
1.2652670491619
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2636420981836
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale

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