Leather

Group: MUSK, AMBER, ANIMALIC SMELLS

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leather Perfumes

1.5166841752642
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.501563183893
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5008128556243
Divine Attraction Initio Parfums Prives
1.5007503282686
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.5006252735572
Professor Portland General Store
1.5005627462015
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5005627462015
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5005002188457
Elsha Elsha
1.50043769149
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.5003751641343
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.5003126367786
Saddle Demeter Fragrance
1.5003126367786
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5002501094229
Electric Leather Aziza World Fragrances
1.5002501094229
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5001250547114
True Grit Milton Lloyd
1.5001250547114
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.5001250547114
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5000625273557
Leather Romane
1.5000625273557
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5
Old Leather CB I Hate Perfume
1.5
Alkimia Uomo Guru Scent
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5
Suede EcoParfum
1.5
Malaysian Suyufi Agarwood Oil Majid Muzaffar Iterji
1.5
Solo Yanbal
1.4883615623085
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4763775820672
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4628180942287
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4577521218658
Black Bvlgari
1.4576744956543
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4515427462015
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.4413593333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4375
Chasseur de Béotie Parfums Sophiste
1.4233783966735
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4172922735572
Kolnisch Juchten Parfums Regence
1.4164070744701
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.4161964684549
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4006252735572
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.4001875820672
No. 1 Six Scents
1.4001250547114
Her Excellency White Estevia Parfum
1.4
Mr. Idol BZ Parfums
1.4
Eau de Cologne Our Legacy
1.3961751291815
Oud 777 Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777
1.3863703647846
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.3851152188457
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3754446215844
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.3750625273557
Spectre Noir Rallet
1.3691715125367
London for Men Burberry
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Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
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Heir Susan D. Owens
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1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3658244574501
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3637610547114
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3625313419621
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.3617988009129
Montmartre Morph
1.356419032014
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.3535165714375
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3530660547114
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.3522263829801
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.3516066611017
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.35043769149
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.3501283222035
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3487522933158
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3482011641343
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.3475296018258
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.3437452234102
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3436783648471
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3426480382667
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3349438571875
Duro Nasomatto
1.3346143937973
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.3343334376915
Sex Tape The Bohemian Society
1.3340833282686
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3338957462015
Moto Oud Blackbird
1.3335205820672
Diavolo Privato Antonio Banderas
1.3333955273557
Evolution Musk DSH Perfumes
1.333333
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.333333
Une Vie en Or pour Homme Frederic M
1.3332704726443
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3332704726443
Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
1.3284027203777
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.327945750766
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.326563183893
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.326446133746
Gomma Etro
1.3257503282686
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.3256379605452
Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3254526611017
Homme Xerjoff
1.3248714909023
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3235709893703
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.3232645820672
Dior Passage No.8 Christian Dior
1.3174147112487
O Blood Concept
1.3161016367786
Sara Pezzini Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3159140547114
Sardonics 2 Novaya Zarya
1.3150402629275
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.3149738009129
Oudh Al Junaid Junaid Jamshed
1.3148694376915
Be The Legend Oriflame
1.3143083829801
Resist Me Liaison de Parfum
1.3128751641343
Rock Le Soft Perfume
1.3128126367786
Og Mirko Buffini Firenze
1.3114078951416
The Original Gap
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Vertigo Cuir Kyse Perfumes
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NO ± Suede UER MI
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Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
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Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
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Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
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Irish Leather Memo
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Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.3069043525918
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
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Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3055602310386
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3046035167261
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3020242477334
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3007503282686
Terryfic Oud Extrême Terry de Gunzburg
1.3002501094229
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3
Gymkana Jean Dessès
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2990477659601
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.2965182431689
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.2951305516789
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2941805273557
Vive l'Empereur! Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
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Cuir Les Sens de Marrakech
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Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2908496018258
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.2904480547114
Cuir Rouge Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.2893154620146
English Leather English Leather
1.2863392735572
Brown Leather Refan
1.2861880426437
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2860891641343
Elaborate Boadicea the Victorious
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Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2857765273557
Insider L`acqua Di Fiori
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Dior Homme Christian Dior
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Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
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Horoof Arabian Oud
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Ghair Anfasic Dokhoon
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Cuir 28 Dubai Le Labo
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MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2796479848059
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.2796327462015
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.2785877158132
Fan di Fendi Leather Essence Fendi
1.2780281094229
1000 Miglia Extreme Chopard
1.2777905745013
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.277778
Foxhunt D.S. & Durga
1.2760106565372
Agarwood Collection Intricate Boadicea the Victorious
1.274353460514
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2728520547114
Smoke Show Vilhelm Parfumerie
1.2727895273557
Cuir Le Galion
1.272727
Dreaming Parallel Ayala Moriel
1.2720832933158
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2716939285938
Cuir Mona di Orio
1.27070769149
Cuir Sensuel Daniel Hechter

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