Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5146244467569
Fahrenheit Dior
1.5124869927159
Authorite Hillary Clinton
1.5019944502255
Mon Numero 10 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.5019077349983
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5010405827263
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5005202913632
Professor Portland General Store
1.500433576136
Elsha Elsha
1.5003468609088
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5002601456816
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5002601456816
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5002601456816
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5000867152272
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5000867152272
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.5
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.5
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5
Leather Romane
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4982656954561
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4764501456816
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4663515327784
Black Bvlgari
1.4578598074922
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4431704502255
XJ Homme Xerjoff
1.4345998806798
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4329067613597
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4302263333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4290912913632
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4290912913632
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.4284842847728
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4265158609088
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4241946437738
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4211397152272
Brown Leather Refan
1.4208257877211
English Leather Dana
1.4121118609088
Tea House Neil Morris
1.4018554817898
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3910466222685
Gomma Etro
1.3891781654527
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3819793579605
London for Men Burberry
1.3809833506764
Royal English Leather Creed
1.377254595907
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3769944502255
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3755202913632
O Blood Concept
1.3671872913632
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.3669812979535
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.365890595907
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3588565556712
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Dior
1.3556025587929
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3532878609088
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
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Azul Animale
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Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
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Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3362813177246
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3348938740895
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.3346337284079
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3340267218176
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.333766576136
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.3335931456816
Tobacco Blaze Rasasi
1.3335064304544
Homme Arno Sorel
1.3332462847728
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3319217613597
The Original Gap
1.3288845029483
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3266941318071
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3250090263614
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.3223413111342
Irish Leather Memo
1.321058496358
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3179949781478
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3169979927159
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3166193954214
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3136801890392
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3136129986126
Duro Nasomatto
1.3123250131807
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.3085591522719
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3062281852237
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.3060031654527
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3038971522719
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.3002601456816
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002601456816
Beartrapper DS & Durga
1.3
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2999150131807
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.2985074831772
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.2967176749913
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.2954187284079
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2943986156781
S.T.Dupont Intese Pour Homme S.T. Dupont
1.294118
Blue Diamond Oud Bella Bellissima
1.2921872913632
Aoud S Mancera
1.2916469795352
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.2888801755116
Dior Homme Dior
1.2870147284079
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.2867545827263
Braggi Charles Revson
1.2863210065904
Men's Style Juvena
1.2863000461325
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.286147576136
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2859754765869
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2858007152272
Venezia Giardini Secreti La Via del Profumo
1.2854723048907
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.2849971918141
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2808671522719
Lucid House of Matriarch
1.280229748179
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2784634568158
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.2780088140826
Derby Guerlain
1.2734207218176
Soleil de Jeddeh Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777
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Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
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Les Nombres d’Or Cuir Mona di Orio
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Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
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Cuir 28 Le Labo
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Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
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Noir de Mars Scent on Canvas
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Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
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No7 Violette Prada
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La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
1.2642683954214
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
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Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
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Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
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Blood Oranges Shay & Blue London
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Kuhuyan Parfums de Marly
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Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
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Nur SoOud
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Lieber Gustav Krigler
1.2572014436351
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
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Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.2553801474159
Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
1.254814012487
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2533818938606
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2521678806798
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Dior
1.2521678806798
Karmala Avon
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Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
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Lovely Patchouli Krigler
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Fumoir Arte Profumi
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Valbonne Molton Brown
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Qubism Emper
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Leather Franck Boclet
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Usain Ona Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
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Cuir X La Parfumerie Moderne
1.2502601456816
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.2502601456816
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.2501734304544
Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
1.25
Maarij Asgharali
1.2499488733958
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2476713648977
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
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Pureblack Bugatti
1.2446446090878
O Blood Concept
1.2438937415886
No3 Cuir Amber Prada
1.243676576136
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.2429120659036
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2425974304544
Wild is the Wind Atelier de Geste
1.2420727218176
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2416071304197
Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2412722278876
John Varvatos John Varvatos
1.2412254429414
Trussardi Uomo Trussardi
1.2410405827263
Habit Rouge Habit de Cuir Guerlain

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