Leather

Group: MUSK, AMBER, ANIMALIC SMELLS

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leather Perfumes

1.5162343109587
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.5015452129303
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5008035107238
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.5008035107238
Divine Attraction Initio Parfums Prives
1.5006180851721
Professor Portland General Store
1.5005562766549
Metal Hurlant Pierre Guillaume Croisiere Collection
1.5005562766549
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5005562766549
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5004944681377
Elsha Elsha
1.5004326596205
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.5003708511033
Saddle Demeter Fragrance
1.5003708511033
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.5003090425861
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5003090425861
Couro. Leather Natura
1.5002472340689
Worth Pour Homme Haute Concentration Worth
1.5002472340689
Electric Leather Aziza World Fragrances
1.5002472340689
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5001236170344
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.5001236170344
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5001236170344
True Grit Milton Lloyd
1.5000618085172
Leather Romane
1.5000618085172
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000618085172
White Leather N°17 The Master Perfumer
1.5
Leather of Dahman S.Ishira
1.5
Alkimia Uomo Guru Scent
1.5
Solo Yanbal
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5
Black Daniel Hechter
1.5
Old Leather CB I Hate Perfume
1.5
Malaysian Suyufi Agarwood Oil Majid Muzaffar Iterji
1.5
Tabacco Extreme Il Profumiere
1.4883730637246
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4763754255516
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4742402766549
Day For Night Prada
1.4627893406885
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4615998085172
Shazi Khalis
1.4586768873849
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4578505730886
Black Bvlgari
1.4515362766549
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.444444
Suede EcoParfum
1.4416933333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4375
Chasseur de Béotie Parfums Sophiste
1.4286946170344
Oud Mazzolari
1.428571
Double Dare Prada
1.4278045756845
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4184316599295
Pi Extreme Givenchy
1.4172850851721
Kolnisch Juchten Parfums Regence
1.4163919788615
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.4145291322702
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4006180851721
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.4004326596205
The Man Cobalt Milton Lloyd
1.4001854255516
No. 1 Six Scents
1.4001236170344
Her Excellency White Estevia Parfum
1.4001236170344
La Panthere Eau de Parfum Edition Limitee Cartier
1.4000618085172
Blow Up La Folie a Plusieurs
1.4
Mr. Idol BZ Parfums
1.4
Eau de Cologne Our Legacy
1.3960967873787
Oud 777 Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777
1.387097
Black Essential Avon
1.3870336201249
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.3851094681377
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3754151492058
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.3752472340689
Rose Leather Solstice Scents
1.3751854255516
Cromo Natura
1.3751236170344
Spectre Noir Rallet
1.3750618085172
PARIS: She met him in secret Anthropologie
1.375
Dymok Cologne Alye Parusa
1.3706172340689
Love Shot Ex Nihilo
1.3705962180604
London for Men Burberry
1.3690390851721
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3666575107238
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3657992981025
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3647223416157
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.3637596170344
Tea House Neil Morris
1.363636
Conciergerie 12 Parfumeurs Francais
1.3630397713703
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3617908936894
Montmartre Morph
1.3575756596205
Musk for Men Avon
1.3564946667285
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.3534490006181
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3530646170344
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.352216319241
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.3515498728599
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3504326596205
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.3500147457198
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3487314469992
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3481968511033
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.3475137873787
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.3446616361951
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3440520851721
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3436999365845
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3430123052105
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3410523829656
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3345651615675
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.3345073618271
Library Solstice Scents
1.3343219362754
Sex Tape The Bohemian Society
1.3341354286421
Duro Nasomatto
1.3338892766549
Moto Oud Blackbird
1.3335184255516
Diavolo Privato Antonio Banderas
1.3333948085172
Details For Him Nazareno Gabrielli
1.3333948085172
Evolution Musk DSH Perfumes
1.333333
Sergey Gubanov for Him Sergey Gubanov
1.333333
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.333333
Une Vie en Or pour Homme Frederic M
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332711914828
Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
1.3278997451017
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.3265452129303
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3264518728599
Gomma Etro
1.3257851078559
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3257417022066
No. XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.3254825753755
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.3253958728599
Homme Xerjoff
1.3253913658446
Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3237144255516
Alaïa Extrait de Parfum Alaia Paris
1.3232624255516
Dior Passage No.8 Christian Dior
1.3173960214476
O Blood Concept
1.3160980425861
Sara Pezzini Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3159358943074
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.3159126170344
Sardonics 2 Novaya Zarya
1.3149658936894
Oudh Al Junaid Junaid Jamshed
1.3148579362754
Be The Legend Oriflame
1.3148355750664
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.314298319241
Resist Me Liaison de Parfum
1.3128090425861
Og Mirko Buffini Firenze
1.3128090425861
Rock Le Soft Perfume
1.3113712343779
The Original Gap
1.3112602135484
Irish Leather Memo
1.3102488725508
Vertigo Cuir Kyse Perfumes
1.309524
NO ± Suede UER MI
1.3095071703443
Mimosa Indigo Atelier Cologne
1.3094894707955
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.308849428024
Aoud Leather Montale
1.308557319241
Royal Leather By Kilian
1.3085001921009
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.3080628511033
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3078156170344
Mabon Botanical Parfum Fleurage
1.3069043409976
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3045373835837
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3038567236541
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3019875753755
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3007417022066
Terryfic Oud Extrême Terry de Gunzburg
1.3006393618271
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3002472340689
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.3
Gymkana Jean Dessès
1.299027638482
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.2968744469992
Loewe 7 Anonimo Loewe
1.2964592984115
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.2956010643427
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale

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