Leather

Group: MUSK, AMBER, ANIMALIC SMELLS

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leather Perfumes

1.5238517053165
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.5013824088474
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5007488047924
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.5007488047924
Farkas Alkemia Perfumes
1.5007488047924
Divine Attraction Initio Parfums Prives
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Rue Royale Hové Parfumeur, Ltd.
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Metal Hurlant Pierre Guillaume Croisiere Collection
1.5005760036864
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5005760036864
Professor Portland General Store
1.5005184033178
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5004608029491
Elsha Elsha
1.5004032025805
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.5004032025805
Couro. Leather Natura
1.5003456022119
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.5003456022119
Cuir6 Pekji
1.5003456022119
Saddle Demeter Fragrance
1.5003456022119
Simply Jil Sander Touch of Leather Jil Sander
1.5002880018432
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5002880018432
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5002304014746
Electric Leather Aziza World Fragrances
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Tobacco Portland General Store
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Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5001152007373
Hussar Aquaflor Firenze
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True Grit Milton Lloyd
1.5001152007373
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.5001152007373
Dark Rose SP Parfums Sven Pritzkoleit
1.5001152007373
Habanera Hové Parfumeur, Ltd.
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The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000576003686
Leather Romane
1.5
Malaysian Suyufi Agarwood Oil Majid Muzaffar Iterji
1.5
Cuir Absolu Elie Saab
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5
Leather of Dahman S.Ishira
1.5
Royal Oriental RoseMary
1.5
Tabacco Extreme Il Profumiere
1.5
RE Music de Parfum
1.5
Old Leather CB I Hate Perfume
1.5
Black Daniel Hechter
1.5
Alkimia Uomo Guru Scent
1.5
Solo Yanbal
1.4884979944704
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4800888158516
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4742600036864
Day For Night Prada
1.4737416003686
Shazi Khalis
1.4683841776395
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4616532007373
Dark Tobacco No. 23 The Master Perfumer
1.4516136040551
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.4511871851852
Black Bvlgari
1.4414823333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4375
Chasseur de Béotie Parfums Sophiste
1.428571
Double Dare Prada
1.4191234033178
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4170035796325
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4146650811013
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4069026095847
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.4005760036864
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.4001728011059
No. 1 Six Scents
1.4001152007373
Her Excellency White Estevia Parfum
1.4000576003686
Paname Mad et Len
1.4
Eau de Cologne Our Legacy
1.3965064053338
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.3898862136398
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3832252518864
London for Men Burberry
1.3759792062669
Leather Oud Dua Fragrances
1.3752304014746
Next To Me Ramon Monegal
1.3752304014746
Rose Leather Solstice Scents
1.3751152007373
Afdak Nabeel
1.375
Black Essential Avon
1.3691698047924
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3666028047924
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3650760092161
Oud 777 Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777
1.3638664014746
PARIS: She met him in secret Anthropologie
1.3637512007373
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3613018582455
Ombre Leather 16 Tom Ford
1.3599468224181
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3596652044237
Montmartre Morph
1.3589799304764
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.3568699645182
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3552860092161
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.353732880364
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.3533990368642
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3530562007373
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.3529986003686
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.352483224699
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.352157405161
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.3520860184321
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.3520726095847
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.3517410055296
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3505184033178
Blow Up La Folie a Plusieurs
1.3486094106906
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3429146003686
Diavolo Club Antonio Banderas
1.3428946611946
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.342494378204
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.3423884291227
Pi Extreme Givenchy
1.3394588047924
Joop! Homme Black King Joop!
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Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3383932045965
Duro Nasomatto
1.3380562302287
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3367714239387
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3359576648811
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.3344274070042
Gibbon's Boarding School Solstice Scents
1.3342546058983
Sex Tape The Bohemian Society
1.3340818047924
Kolnisch Juchten Parfums Regence
1.3338514033178
Moto Oud Blackbird
1.3337938029491
Musk for Men Avon
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Endeavor Abercrombie & Fitch
1.3335058011059
White Leather N°17 The Master Perfumer
1.3335058011059
Diavolo Privato Antonio Banderas
1.3333906003686
Marte Collezione Privata Cuoio & Patchouly Battistoni
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Evolution Musk DSH Perfumes
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Crash CIEL Parfum
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
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Yubiley Severnoye Siyanie
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Une Vie en Or pour Homme Frederic M
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Sergey Gubanov for Him Sergey Gubanov
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Conciergerie 12 Parfumeurs Francais
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Iconic Merhis Perfumes
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Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
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Grey Quartz Pascal Morabito
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Gomma Etro
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Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
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In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
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Obscuro Santa Eulalia
1.3254114106906
O Blood Concept
1.3244046869996
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3237018011059
Alaïa Extrait de Parfum Alaia Paris
1.3217802081101
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3212802136398
Bucoliques de Provence L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3198444530845
Irish Leather Memo
1.3191232099533
Be The Legend Oriflame
1.3185526464489
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.3182972007373
Dior Passage No.8 Christian Dior
1.3182024364956
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
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Sara Pezzini Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
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Cromo Natura
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Sardonics 2 Novaya Zarya
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Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum Hermes
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Aoud Leather Montale
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Og Mirko Buffini Firenze
1.3106330018432
Deadwood Alkemia Perfumes
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The Original Gap
1.3095816003686
NO ± Suede UER MI
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Aleksandr Arquiste
1.3084372136398
Mimosa Indigo Atelier Cologne
1.3078648011059
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3078072007373
Mabon Botanical Parfum Fleurage
1.307692
Dymok Cologne Alye Parusa
1.3061320036864
Larrea La Curie
1.3052578011059
Fil de Soie L`Atelier Boheme
1.3026302320719
Homme Xerjoff

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