Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5181133320778
Fahrenheit Dior
1.5017263025738
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5008631512869
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5006277463905
Elsha Elsha
1.5006277463905
Professor Portland General Store
1.5006277463905
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.500392341494
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5003138731952
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5002354048964
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.5002354048964
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5002354048964
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5001569365976
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.5000784682988
Leather Romane
1.5000784682988
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5000784682988
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4899982291274
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4893108587571
Homme Xerjoff
1.4764254048964
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4647983226616
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4614158148148
Black Bvlgari
1.4546234682988
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.4443709855618
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4336423333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4328867564344
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.4298264927809
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4290418097928
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4284925317012
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.4248547696171
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4247283559322
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4211314682988
Brown Leather Refan
1.4120788731952
Tea House Neil Morris
1.3906153025738
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3904613772756
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3847400590082
English Leather English Leather
1.3779127175141
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3775890979284
Gomma Etro
1.3775109855618
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3769617074702
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3760164149404
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3739322479598
London for Men Burberry
1.3683639667294
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Dior
1.3668740878845
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3659115806654
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.365676175769
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3487540106717
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.3454464538606
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3423854362837
Duro Nasomatto
1.3402507463905
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3354318888889
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3345736541117
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3341961512869
Azul Animale
1.3339607463905
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3338038097928
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.333725341494
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.3332545317012
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.329167561833
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.3284684005022
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.3239934293785
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3223635229127
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3213602492153
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.3205904149404
The Original Gap
1.3159221123666
Fareb Huitieme Art Parfums
1.3145881512869
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.3125857834275
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.3124625963591
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3123107809165
La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
1.3121017175141
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.3084766829881
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3035310734463
Blackbird House of Matriarch
1.3034744494664
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3028248587571
Only The Brave Captain America Diesel
1.3020378587571
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3003138731952
Bruce Willis Personal Edition LR
1.3002354048964
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3001569365976
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2992059610797
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.2981063653484
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2974337589454
Kelly Caleche L`Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.2960373760201
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.2952165561833
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2945185417451
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.2940779956058
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2894483659761
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.2885200878845
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.2882987966102
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2862632780917
Men's Style Juvena
1.286106341494
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2857924682988
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2855036051475
Irish Leather Memo
1.2849375655995
Dior Homme Dior
1.2848505116133
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2827179202762
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2815261224105
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2801682636535
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2799131613308
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2751916051475
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2735116829881
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.2731978097928
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2723886440678
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2711671751412
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.2708977463905
Blue Blooded King Amordad
1.2698587463905
Cuir X La Parfumerie Moderne
1.2676577520402
Derby Guerlain
1.2669782536095
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.2657256986817
Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2656476195857
No7 Violette Prada
1.2654849610797
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.2651768097928
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.265098341494
Spent Musket Oil D.S. & Durga
1.2647080979284
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2633149365976
Homme Arno Sorel
1.2610303427495
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2599482391714
Charriol Eau de Parfum Pour Homme Charriol
1.2597984639046
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2593204927809
Woo House of Matriarch
1.2588186541117
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.2587783760201
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Tar Comme des Garcons
1.2587736654112
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.257461834275
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
1.2567482736974
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2564513182674
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2529817953547
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.2522755806654
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Dior
1.2518832391714
Carlo Corinto Carlo Corinto
1.2510985561833
Lovely Patchouli Krigler
1.2509416195857
Fumoir Arte Profumi
1.2508631512869
Varens Original Russian Legend Ulric de Varens
1.2505492780917
Aoud S Mancera
1.250392341494
Valbonne Molton Brown
1.2503138731952
Usain Ona Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.2502354048964
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.2501569365976
Massimo Dutti In Black Massimo Dutti
1.2501569365976
Marbert Man No.2 Marbert
1.25
Maarij Asgharali
1.2481775806654
Cuoio Pal Zileri
1.2477396685499
O Blood Concept
1.2473993785311
Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2451524557439
Dirty English for Men Juicy Couture
1.244836341494
Noir de Mars Scent on Canvas
1.2438899855618
No3 Cuir Amber Prada
1.2436010244821
Lieber Gustav Krigler
1.2434976440678
Pureblack Bugatti
1.2427378731952
Wild is the Wind Atelier de Geste
1.2424673025738
Whips and Roses Kerosene
1.2417912492153
Royal Leather Charriol
1.2408002303829
Accord Oud Byredo
1.2406107708726
Cuir Blanc Evody Parfums

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