Leather

Group: Animal Sources

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Leather

1.5134258687844
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.5016455605638
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.5007870072262
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5007154611147
Professor Portland General Store
1.5005723688918
Elsha Elsha
1.5005008227803
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5003577305573
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.5003577305573
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.5003577305573
No. 70 Habanera Frau Tonis Parfum
1.5002146383344
Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5002146383344
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5001430922229
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.5001430922229
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.5000715461115
Leather Romane
1.5000715461115
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000715461115
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
1.5
Armonia Cerchi Nell’Acqua
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.4983544394362
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4891036383344
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.4764046383344
Eau de Cuir de Russie Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4619672766688
Lasso Jean Patou
1.4570491139014
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4569027198254
Black Bvlgari
1.4547596383344
Justice Bodan Perfume Oil Justice Bodan
1.4546880922229
Wild Leather Mancera
1.4496510794877
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4370927573871
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.4360412611433
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4337713333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.429644191672
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.4291433688918
Kolnisch Juchten Regence
1.428571
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.4211960922229
Brown Leather Refan
1.4168537645417
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.412838191672
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.4120511844459
Tea House Neil Morris
1.4072516455606
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.4008585533376
Mon Habit Rouge Taillé sur Mesure Guerlain
1.4002146383344
No. 1 Six Scents
1.3914613127996
In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.3903914683408
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3859802061243
Land Of Warriors The Vagabond Prince
1.3852863905702
Homme Xerjoff
1.3776289583602
Royal English Leather Creed
1.377289475567
Fleur de Peau Keiko Mecheri
1.3770748372326
Mon Numero 4 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3768557535236
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3758585533376
Vintage Leather West Third Brand
1.375
Abolition Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.3749284538885
Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition Bentley
1.3714956650927
London for Men Burberry
1.3677167739143
Gomma Etro
1.3667840994491
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3656392911211
Air de Cabochard Gres
1.3656392911211
Spanish Leather Truefitt & Hill
1.3653508516849
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3638506383344
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
1.3624193706089
Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
1.3539473344781
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.3517792295199
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.351216283895
O Blood Concept
1.3471355581312
Kelly Caleche Hermes
1.345146475567
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3427144284181
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3348354683408
Mon Cuir Ramon Monegal
1.3341329583602
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
1.3341200072262
Azul Animale
1.3339053688918
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.3336907305573
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.333333
The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
1.333333
Cuir Les Sens de Marrakech
1.333333
Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
1.3332614538885
Actus Reus Daniel Vaudd
1.3325230505831
English Leather English Leather
1.3323629439078
The Original Gap
1.3302391156185
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3285129150032
Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3262249150032
Chastity begins @ Home Smell Bent
1.3233079768906
Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3206616073549
Duro Nasomatto
1.3186112766688
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3162182766688
Maserati Horse Passion La Martina
1.3114123977964
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors
1.3094310505831
Spanish Leather Cologne Geo. F. Trumper
1.3082278028189
Boxeuses Serge Lutens
1.3079781844459
Cuir Insolite Welton London
1.3074560144523
Rasikh Syed Junaid Alam
1.3065175894684
Irish Leather Memo
1.3038777790656
Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3027187522358
Only The Brave Captain America Diesel
1.3009188155541
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3002146383344
Beartrapper D.S. & Durga
1.3001430922229
Decorous Boadicea the Victorious
1.3
Cobice Abinoam
1.2993939800386
Jazz Club Maison Martin Margiela
1.2963258007441
Cuir Ottoman Parfum d`Empire
1.2952627377835
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.2947619150032
Aurum Intenso Natura
1.2945291806539
Les Exclusifs de Chanel 28 La Pausa Chanel
1.2944399728125
Royal Vintage M. Micallef
1.2933436328254
Cuir Cannage Christian Dior
1.2925823461401
Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.2922412436145
Dzing! L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.2920247305573
Qubism Emper
1.2900426816914
Blackbird House of Matriarch
1.2869986961437
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.2866327739143
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.2862148227803
Men's Style Juvena
1.2860717305573
MS Oud Marco Serussi
1.2860717305573
Only The Brave by Bunka Diesel
1.2859086600129
Davidoff Leather Blend Davidoff
1.2854218733634
MV3 M∙A∙C
1.2853366472777
Ferrari Uomo Ferrari
1.2845654900193
Eau Folle Guy Laroche
1.281713667239
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2809930470773
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.2809458895328
Fan di Fendi Extreme Fendi
1.2784458244974
Derby Guerlain
1.2783198296487
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Cuir de Russie Chanel
1.2779210922229
Sacre Coeur Ego Facto
1.2776535116978
Essence Labdanum Donna Karan
1.2772441644845
Vince Camuto for Men Vince Camuto
1.2771135044716
Womanity Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler
1.2770075605638
Infanta en Flor Arquiste
1.2762912766688
Love Rose Reminiscence
1.274633703656
Dior Homme Christian Dior
1.2734424611147
XXII Black Afghan Mad et Len
1.2731562766688
Centaure Cuir Ambre Pierre Cardin
1.2728700922229
Rock Le Soft Perfume
1.272821283895
Coach Leatherware No. 01 Coach
1.2722017450097
Jack Black Signature Black Mark Jack Black
1.2721963200258
Private Collection Cuir d'Iris Parfumerie Generale
1.272184951134
Les Heures de Cartier: La Treizieme Heure XIII Cartier
1.2710570072262
King Amordad
1.2707597522358
Diavolo Antonio Banderas
1.2679971211276
Fan di Fendi Leather Essence Fendi
1.2659482983473
Velvet Wood Dolce&Gabbana
1.265922283895
Spent Musket Oil D.S. & Durga
1.2653058589111
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.2651352766688
Armani Code Golden Edition Giorgio Armani
1.264406328969
Golden Boy Dueto Parfums
1.2633010922229
Homme Arno Sorel
1.263159475567
Oud Alif Shay & Blue London
1.2628446145811
Fan di Fendi pour Homme Fendi
1.2628385839594
Cuir Mona di Orio
1.2614749944909
La Yuqawam Homme Rasasi
1.2607416455606
Piper Leather Illuminum
1.2573164683408
Centaure Cuir Blanc Pierre Cardin
1.2560344611147
Leather Krem Soivohle

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