Patchouli

lat. Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae

Group: WOODS AND MOSSES

Patchouli Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae
Patchouli Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae
Patchouli Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae
Odor profile: An exotic bush that grows mainly in India, the leaves of which produce the essential oil of patchouli. Sweet, dark, with an earthy, woody edge, it is very popular in many blends, especially the contemporary woody floral musks. Synthetics and fractal extractions of the material also abound.

Patchouli is a wonderful green bushy herb of the mint family. It belongs to the genus Pogostemon and grows up to two or three feet in height. The herb is graced with delicate pinkish-white flowers and aromatic leaves that have been used for centuries in perfumery, due to their wonderful and strong scent. Patchouli is native to tropical regions of Asia, but it grows well in all warm to tropical climates. Nowadays, several varieties of the Pogostemon genus are cultivated allover Asia, West Africa and South America for their aromatic oil known as patchouli oil.

The name patchouli derives from the old Tamil words patchai, meaning "green", and ellai meaning "leaf". The origin of the name points out to the native land of this herb, stemming from the Dravidian language spoken mostly by Tamil people of the Indian subcontinent. The plant was brought to the Middle East along the silk route, and it was thanks to the famous conqueror Napoleon Bonaparte that patchouli reached Europe. Napoleon brought to France a couple of patchouli-scented cashmere shawls that he found in Egypt. The shawls were redolent of patchouli oil, which was used to repel insects and protect them from moths, but the origin of the scent was held as closely guarded secret. Wonderful patterns of the oriental fabrics have soon become easy to replicate, but sneaky European manufacturers were still forced to import the fragrant oil from the East. The secret was finally broken in 1837, when Francisco Manuel Blanco first described patchouli as Mentha cablin, revealing the secret of the mysterious oriental scent to the rest of the western world.

The world’s major craze for patchouli happened in the Europe and America during the 1960s and 1970s. This pungent scented oil that bears a strong reference to India was typically worn by the hippies, who were often associated with the Hare Krishna movement. Unfortunately, the hippies contributed to the bad reputation of patchouli oil because they were typically wearing very bad synthetic formulations. The association of patchouli with the hippie culture finally resulted in misperception of this raw material, and for most of us today, patchouli is just a synonym for too heady, too overwhelming and too common fragrance. Here is an example taken from the UrbanDictionary:

patchouli

  1. 1. A plant that smells like a Grateful Dead concert.
  2. 2. Not a shower, contrary to San Franciso's public policy on hygiene.
  3. 3. Slang term for Filty Filthy Hippie
"No hipppie, that's a bad hippie. Patchouli is not a shower!"

Of course, this example only illustrates another common fallacy and everyone who seriously wishes to explore the wonderful world of perfumery should remember that patchouli is the elementary unit of the entire class of perfumes – the chypre fragrances. The scent of patchouli is described as earthy and herbaceous with rich green heart and a woodsy base. The olfactory profile of patchouli oil, however, strongly depends on the cultivation techniques, time of the harvest, the process of drying and distillation techniques. The highest quality oil is obtained from only 3-4 top pairs of mature leaves, where the highest concentration of the purest oil is found. Proper drying is ensured by placing the cut stems and leaves on a dry surface and turning them over frequently to prevent rapid fermentation. When the process is complete, the leaves are stripped from the stems and placed in woven baskets to allow fermentation and release of their wonderful aroma. The final quality will also depend on the skill of the grower, who controls the level of fermentation by using his own nose. Only a small number of distilleries is specialized in production of this highly refined extract which finds its use in haute parfumerie.

Patchouli oil is obtained by steam distillation or CO2-extraction of the dried leaves. The oil has a rich, balsamic and herbaceous flavor with a minty-woody undertone. Patchouli absolute is a dark green liquid obtained by the solvent extraction of dried leaves. The absolute has a rich, pronouncedly sweet and herbaceous aroma with woody-balsamic undertone. They both blend perfectly with oriental bouquets, chypre and fougère-type fragrances, and powdery perfumes. Patchouli blends well with vetiver, which contains the same earthy olfactory profile, sandalwood, cedarwood, clove, lavender, rose, labdanum, and so on.

One of the most wonderful features of patchouli oil is that it becomes even better with aging. Freshly distilled oil may appear more green, tart and unmelodious in comparison to well aged oil that has a rich and full fruity-like nuance.

In the opus of L Artisan Parfumeur, there are two patchouli-dominated fragrances: the oriental fragrance for women Patchouli Patch, and oriental-woody men’s fragrance Voleur de Roses.

The floral woody musky fragrance for women Nuits de Noho, by Bond No9, features patchouli in the top notes, while Lorenzo Villoresi’s unisex Patchouli offers straightforward interpretation of this herb, laid on a base of woodsy and musky notes. Let me also mention a vintage creation, Patchouli Pour Homme by Reminiscence. Launched in 1970, this fragrance features geranium, cedar and patchouli in the middle notes.

Among the oriental woody fragrances, I would single out two wonderful unisex scents: Montale’s Patchouli Leaves and Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens. More refined, softer, and ultimately feminine interpretation of patchouli is offered in oriental vanilla fragrance for women - Angel by Thierry Mugler.

To embark on your own journey to discover more wonderful patchouli-based fragrances, use our search for notes.


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Patchouli Perfumes

1.5080128205128
Patchouli Absolu Tom Ford
1.5036350844278
Arthes Essential Patchouli Sumatra Jeanne Arthes
1.5032833020638
Patchouli Santa Maria Novella
1.5026188242652
Zizanie Fragonard
1.5021888680425
Patchouly Indonesiano Farmacia SS. Annunziata
1.5018370856785
The Lover Gap
1.5017198248906
Patchouli Solinotes
1.5015634771732
Velvet Patchouli Dolce&Gabbana
1.5014853033146
Brutus Orto Parisi
1.5014462163852
Patchouli The Body Shop
1.5013680425266
BOSS The Collection Cashmere & Patchouli Hugo Boss
1.5012507817386
A*Men Summer Flash Thierry Mugler
1.5007817385866
H&M Comme des Garcons
1.5007426516573
Patchouli Eau de Parfum Molinard
1.500703564728
Rock & Republic Eau de Toilette Spray for Women Rock & Republic
1.5006253908693
Herbessence Helena Rubinstein
1.50058630394
Fashion Decree Woman Atkinsons
1.5005472170106
Tramp Lush
1.5005081300813
Stardust Oriflame
1.500469043152
Patchouli Arawak Ligne St. Barth
1.5004299562226
Patchouli Leaves Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.5003908692933
Patchouli Crabtree & Evelyn
1.500351782364
Anise Patchouli Compagnie de Provence
1.500351782364
Patchouli Demeter Fragrance
1.500351782364
Live Joyously Philosophy
1.5003126954346
Dianoche Passion Daisy Fuentes
1.5003126954346
Blackbird Meshaz Natural Perfumes
1.5002736085053
Patchouli Companhia da Terra
1.5002736085053
Patchouli C.O.Bigelow
1.5002736085053
Ravenous Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5002736085053
Bodhi Sativa (Patchouli project no.1) DSH Perfumes
1.500234521576
Tunisian Patchouli Kuumba Made
1.500234521576
Mitti Arte Profumi
1.5001954346467
Patchouli Demeter Fragrance
1.5001954346467
Patchouli TerraNova
1.5001954346467
Patchouli Des Filles a la Vanille
1.5001954346467
Patchouly Pure Sin Teufels Kuche
1.5001954346467
Cherie Hoity Toity
1.5001954346467
Patchouly Teufels Kuche
1.5001954346467
Patchouli Molinard
1.5001563477173
Erdbeermund Teufels Kuche
1.5001563477173
Patchouly Adopt` by Reserve Naturelle
1.500117260788
Patchouli Durance en Provence
1.500117260788
Morass Teufels Kuche
1.500117260788
No. IX Patchouli Rose Mad et Len
1.500117260788
Patchouli Intense Eau de Parfum Molinard
1.5000781738587
Mix 13 Platinum J
1.5000781738587
Intense Patchouli La Maison de la Vanille
1.5000781738587
Patchouli Queen B
1.5000781738587
Depraved Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000781738587
Master JoJo Handsome London
1.5000781738587
Patchouli & Rose Suhad Perfumes
1.5000781738587
Patchouly Incubus Teufels Kuche
1.5000781738587
Black Patchouli Refan
1.5000781738587
Patchouli Mercyful Almond Teufels Kuche
1.5000781738587
Patchouli Anglia Perfumery
1.5000781738587
Pomegranate Patchouli Voluspa
1.5000781738587
Patchouli Rose Scent by the Sea
1.5000390869293
Lonach Castle Forbes
1.5000390869293
Patchouli Coconut Junky Teufels Kuche
1.5000390869293
Patchouli Crisp Pear Teufels Kuche
1.5000390869293
Ippi Patchouli Carrement Belle
1.5000390869293
Maria Manhã de Sonho Jequiti
1.5000390869293
Oriental Rose Vertus
1.5000390869293
Unholy Teufels Kuche
1.5000390869293
Patchouli Les Ecuadors
1.5000390869293
Demonic Slayer Teufels Kuche
1.5000390869293
Patchouli & Musc Blanc Accord Parfait
1.5000390869293
Masquerade Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000390869293
Black Shark Paris Elysees
1.5
Une Vie en Or pour Homme Frederic M
1.5
Sexy Patchouli Harvey Prince
1.5
Patchouly Lavandula Teufels Kuche
1.5
Argonaut STILLLIFE
1.5
Fragrance №10 Nikkos-Oskol Fragrance
1.5
Lady Rebel Diamond Edition Mango
1.5
Piccolo Amor Cerchi Nell’Acqua
1.5
Bleu Magador Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.5
Patchouli Saint Charles Shave
1.5
Patchouli YanFroloff Perfumer
1.5
Patchouli Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.5
Dark Patchouli Scent by the Sea
1.5
Unveiled Red Pearl
1.5
Patchouli Spirit Of Musk Teufels Kuche
1.5
Patchouli Shadow Teufels Kuche
1.5
Flambee Dilis Parfum
1.5
Patchouli Passion Charme Essência
1.5
Patchouli Spicy Cinnamon Teufels Kuche
1.5
Blood Edition - Gothic Poison Teufels Kuche
1.5
Blood Edition - Holy Vampire Teufels Kuche
1.5
Amour de Patchouli Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.5
Merci Intense Jequiti
1.5
04 Forest Patchouli Fred Segal
1.5
Basha Khan Queen B
1.5
Patchouli Les Petits Plaisirs
1.5
Scorpio Ajne
1.5
Oliver Peoples Green Byredo
1.5
Paris - Saint-Honore Stephanie de Bruijn - Parfum sur Mesure
1.5
MTV Man MTV Perfumes
1.5
Patchouli Lothantique
1.5
Patchouli Vintage The Merchant of Venice
1.4999609130707
Indigo Swing BillyXClub
1.4999609130707
Oui, mais il a aime Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.4999609130707
Patchouli Love Ulric de Varens
1.4999218261413
192 Light Refan
1.4999218261413
Cedar Woods Woods of Windsor
1.499882739212
Burial Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4883522170106
Cristina Hilde Soliani
1.4758213333333
Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
1.4727301300813
Vintage Naturals 2009 Patchouli Demeter Fragrance
1.4711683345841
Voleur de Roses L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.470588
Nue au Soleil Prada
1.4699706085053
Musk Denim
1.4675269124453
ShanghaiJava Musc & Patchouli Crazylibellule and the Poppies
1.461772521576
Rendezvous Night Urban Retreat
1.4615770869293
Kanion Classic Pollena Ewa
1.4584893477173
Wanton Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.458333
Tribal Arte Profumi
1.454662260788
Mix 10 Platinum J
1.4545840869293
Nuits de Noho Chandelier Bond No 9
1.4545840869293
Patchouli Lost Dragon Teufels Kuche
1.454545
Yunkerskiy No. 1 Novaya Zarya
1.4514071294559
Nightfall Patchouli Carolina Herrera
1.4448348692933
Mysterieuse? Vanille Patchouli Sephora
1.4445221738587
Durrat Al Khaleej Reehat Al Atoor
1.444444
City Rain Neil Morris
1.4432869562226
Caoba Fueguia 1833
1.441527782364
Patchouli Tendre Soupir Des Filles a la Vanille
1.4405081300813
Genuine Patchouli Melvita
1.4383208255159
Patchouli Jalaine
1.4334893477173
Ambra e Iris Dr. Vranjes Firenze
1.4290009562226
Patchouli Murdock London
1.4288446085053
Jivago 7 Elements Jivago
1.428688260788
Patchouli Woman Bjork and Berries
1.4286491738587
Patchouli Rain Scent by the Sea
1.4286491738587
100 E. Marinella
1.4286491738587
Road Trip West Third Brand
1.4286491738587
Patchouly Compagnia Delle Indie
1.4286100869293
Patchouli Süßes Blut Teufels Kuche
1.428571
Patchouli La Belle Italienne Des Filles a la Vanille
1.428571
Wafa Attar Asgharali
1.428571
No.6 Patchouli Spice Angela Flanders
1.428571
Hetairae Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.428571
Beloved Cologne Parfumee Prince Matchabelli
1.428571
Patchouli Man Bjork and Berries
1.428571
Vintage Alan Bray
1.4237414777986
Naeem Al Haramain Perfumes
1.4213266085053
DKNY Be Delicious Art Men Donna Karan
1.4210920869293
Rhythmus L`acqua Di Fiori
1.4203095634772
Classic Patchouli Von Eusersdorff

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