Patchouli

lat. Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae

Group: WOODS AND MOSSES

Patchouli Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae
Patchouli Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae
Patchouli Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae
Odor profile: An exotic bush that grows mainly in India, the leaves of which produce the essential oil of patchouli. Sweet, dark, with an earthy, woody edge, it is very popular in many blends, especially the contemporary woody floral musks. Synthetics and fractal extractions of the material also abound.

Patchouli is a wonderful green bushy herb of the mint family. It belongs to the genus Pogostemon and grows up to two or three feet in height. The herb is graced with delicate pinkish-white flowers and aromatic leaves that have been used for centuries in perfumery, due to their wonderful and strong scent. Patchouli is native to tropical regions of Asia, but it grows well in all warm to tropical climates. Nowadays, several varieties of the Pogostemon genus are cultivated allover Asia, West Africa and South America for their aromatic oil known as patchouli oil.

The name patchouli derives from the old Tamil words patchai, meaning "green", and ellai meaning "leaf". The origin of the name points out to the native land of this herb, stemming from the Dravidian language spoken mostly by Tamil people of the Indian subcontinent. The plant was brought to the Middle East along the silk route, and it was thanks to the famous conqueror Napoleon Bonaparte that patchouli reached Europe. Napoleon brought to France a couple of patchouli-scented cashmere shawls that he found in Egypt. The shawls were redolent of patchouli oil, which was used to repel insects and protect them from moths, but the origin of the scent was held as closely guarded secret. Wonderful patterns of the oriental fabrics have soon become easy to replicate, but sneaky European manufacturers were still forced to import the fragrant oil from the East. The secret was finally broken in 1837, when Francisco Manuel Blanco first described patchouli as Mentha cablin, revealing the secret of the mysterious oriental scent to the rest of the western world.

The world’s major craze for patchouli happened in the Europe and America during the 1960s and 1970s. This pungent scented oil that bears a strong reference to India was typically worn by the hippies, who were often associated with the Hare Krishna movement. Unfortunately, the hippies contributed to the bad reputation of patchouli oil because they were typically wearing very bad synthetic formulations. The association of patchouli with the hippie culture finally resulted in misperception of this raw material, and for most of us today, patchouli is just a synonym for too heady, too overwhelming and too common fragrance. Here is an example taken from the UrbanDictionary:

patchouli

  1. 1. A plant that smells like a Grateful Dead concert.
  2. 2. Not a shower, contrary to San Franciso's public policy on hygiene.
  3. 3. Slang term for Filty Filthy Hippie
"No hipppie, that's a bad hippie. Patchouli is not a shower!"

Of course, this example only illustrates another common fallacy and everyone who seriously wishes to explore the wonderful world of perfumery should remember that patchouli is the elementary unit of the entire class of perfumes – the chypre fragrances. The scent of patchouli is described as earthy and herbaceous with rich green heart and a woodsy base. The olfactory profile of patchouli oil, however, strongly depends on the cultivation techniques, time of the harvest, the process of drying and distillation techniques. The highest quality oil is obtained from only 3-4 top pairs of mature leaves, where the highest concentration of the purest oil is found. Proper drying is ensured by placing the cut stems and leaves on a dry surface and turning them over frequently to prevent rapid fermentation. When the process is complete, the leaves are stripped from the stems and placed in woven baskets to allow fermentation and release of their wonderful aroma. The final quality will also depend on the skill of the grower, who controls the level of fermentation by using his own nose. Only a small number of distilleries is specialized in production of this highly refined extract which finds its use in haute parfumerie.

Patchouli oil is obtained by steam distillation or CO2-extraction of the dried leaves. The oil has a rich, balsamic and herbaceous flavor with a minty-woody undertone. Patchouli absolute is a dark green liquid obtained by the solvent extraction of dried leaves. The absolute has a rich, pronouncedly sweet and herbaceous aroma with woody-balsamic undertone. They both blend perfectly with oriental bouquets, chypre and fougère-type fragrances, and powdery perfumes. Patchouli blends well with vetiver, which contains the same earthy olfactory profile, sandalwood, cedarwood, clove, lavender, rose, labdanum, and so on.

One of the most wonderful features of patchouli oil is that it becomes even better with aging. Freshly distilled oil may appear more green, tart and unmelodious in comparison to well aged oil that has a rich and full fruity-like nuance.

In the opus of L Artisan Parfumeur, there are two patchouli-dominated fragrances: the oriental fragrance for women Patchouli Patch, and oriental-woody men’s fragrance Voleur de Roses.

The floral woody musky fragrance for women Nuits de Noho, by Bond No9, features patchouli in the top notes, while Lorenzo Villoresi’s unisex Patchouli offers straightforward interpretation of this herb, laid on a base of woodsy and musky notes. Let me also mention a vintage creation, Patchouli Pour Homme by Reminiscence. Launched in 1970, this fragrance features geranium, cedar and patchouli in the middle notes.

Among the oriental woody fragrances, I would single out two wonderful unisex scents: Montale’s Patchouli Leaves and Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens. More refined, softer, and ultimately feminine interpretation of patchouli is offered in oriental vanilla fragrance for women - Angel by Thierry Mugler.

To embark on your own journey to discover more wonderful patchouli-based fragrances, use our search for notes.


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Patchouli Perfumes

1.5084881853636
Patchouli Absolu Tom Ford
1.5035940965053
Arthes Essential Patchouli Sumatra Jeanne Arthes
1.5033646860901
Patchouli Santa Maria Novella
1.502599984706
Zizanie Fragonard
1.5022941041523
Patchouly Indonesiano Farmacia SS. Annunziata
1.5019117534603
Brutus Orto Parisi
1.5017970482527
The Lover Gap
1.501682343045
Patchouli Solinotes
1.5016058729066
Velvet Patchouli Dolce&Gabbana
1.5016058729066
Patchouli The Body Shop
1.5013382274222
BOSS The Collection Cashmere & Patchouli Hugo Boss
1.5012235222146
A*Men Summer Flash Thierry Mugler
1.5009176416609
Patchouli Eau de Parfum Molinard
1.5007647013841
H&M Comme des Garcons
1.5006882312457
Stardust Oriflame
1.5006499961765
Tramp Lush
1.5006117611073
Herbessence Helena Rubinstein
1.5005735260381
Fashion Decree Woman Atkinsons
1.5004588208305
Patchouli Arawak Ligne St. Barth
1.5004588208305
Live Joyously Philosophy
1.5004588208305
Patchouli Crabtree & Evelyn
1.5004205857613
Patchouli Leaves Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.5004205857613
Patchouli Demeter Fragrance
1.5003823506921
Blackbird Meshaz Natural Perfumes
1.5003441156228
Bodhi Sativa (Patchouli project no.1) DSH Perfumes
1.5003441156228
Anise Patchouli Compagnie de Provence
1.5003058805536
Beyond Victoria`s Secret
1.5003058805536
Dianoche Passion Daisy Fuentes
1.5002676454844
Patchouli C.O.Bigelow
1.5002676454844
Patchouli Companhia da Terra
1.5002676454844
Bohème Alkemia Perfumes
1.5002676454844
Ravenous Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5002294104152
Nakahat Al Oud Lattafa Perfumes
1.500191175346
Mitti Arte Profumi
1.500191175346
Patchouli Demeter Fragrance
1.500191175346
Tunisian Patchouli Kuumba Made
1.500191175346
Patchouli Des Filles a la Vanille
1.500191175346
Patchouli Molinard
1.500191175346
Patchouly Teufels Kuche
1.500191175346
Patchouli TerraNova
1.500191175346
Patchouly Pure Sin Teufels Kuche
1.500191175346
Patchouly Adopt` by Reserve Naturelle
1.500191175346
Patchouli Intense Eau de Parfum Molinard
1.500191175346
Cherie Hoity Toity
1.5001529402768
Patchouli & Rose Suhad Perfumes
1.5001529402768
Erdbeermund Teufels Kuche
1.5001147052076
No. IX Patchouli Rose Mad et Len
1.5001147052076
Patchouli Durance en Provence
1.5001147052076
Morass Teufels Kuche
1.5000764701384
Intense Patchouli La Maison de la Vanille
1.5000764701384
Mix 13 Platinum J
1.5000764701384
Patchouli Anglia Perfumery
1.5000764701384
Patchouly Incubus Teufels Kuche
1.5000764701384
Depraved Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000764701384
Master JoJo Handsome London
1.5000764701384
Patchouli Rose Scent by the Sea
1.5000764701384
Power Instinct Airness
1.5000764701384
Pomegranate Patchouli Voluspa
1.5000764701384
Black Patchouli Refan
1.5000764701384
04 Forest Patchouli Fred Segal
1.5000764701384
Bleu Magador Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.5000764701384
Patchouli Queen B
1.5000764701384
Patchouli Mercyful Almond Teufels Kuche
1.5000764701384
Patchouli Avon
1.5000382350692
Demonic Slayer Teufels Kuche
1.5000382350692
Maria Manhã de Sonho Jequiti
1.5000382350692
Unholy Teufels Kuche
1.5000382350692
Masquerade Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000382350692
Ippi Patchouli Carrement Belle
1.5000382350692
Patchouli Les Ecuadors
1.5000382350692
Patchouli & Musc Blanc Accord Parfait
1.5000382350692
Patchouli Coconut Junky Teufels Kuche
1.5000382350692
Patchouli Crisp Pear Teufels Kuche
1.5000382350692
Lonach Castle Forbes
1.5000382350692
Oriental Rose Vertus
1.5
Patchouli Vintage The Merchant of Venice
1.5
MTV Man MTV Perfumes
1.5
Sexy Patchouli Harvey Prince
1.5
Scorpio Ajne
1.5
Fragrance №10 Nikkos-Oskol Fragrance
1.5
Lady Rebel Diamond Edition Mango
1.5
Patchouli Spirit Of Musk Teufels Kuche
1.5
Piccolo Amor Cerchi Nell’Acqua
1.5
Patchoulystan ArteOlfatto
1.5
Dark Patchouli Scent by the Sea
1.5
Une Vie en Or pour Homme Frederic M
1.5
Basha Khan Queen B
1.5
Al Amakin Nabeel
1.5
Patchouli YanFroloff Perfumer
1.5
Amour de Patchouli Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.5
Patchouli Les Petits Plaisirs
1.5
Black Magic Parfums Genty
1.5
Blood Edition - Holy Vampire Teufels Kuche
1.5
Unveiled Red Pearl
1.5
Blood Edition - Gothic Poison Teufels Kuche
1.5
Patchouli Spicy Cinnamon Teufels Kuche
1.5
Flambee Dilis Parfum
1.5
Patchouly Lavandula Teufels Kuche
1.5
No. 2 Aromatologic
1.5
Patchouli Passion Charme Essência
1.5
Patchouli Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.5
Haraayer Reehat Al Atoor
1.5
Merci Intense Jequiti
1.5
Argonaut STILLLIFE
1.5
Truly Patchouly Voronoi
1.5
Patchouli Shadow Teufels Kuche
1.5
Patchouli Saint Charles Shave
1.5
Paris - Saint-Honore Stephanie de Bruijn - Parfum sur Mesure
1.4999617649308
Oui, mais il a aime Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.4999617649308
Patchouli Love Ulric de Varens
1.4999235298616
Burial Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4999235298616
192 Light Refan
1.4998470597232
Azraq Dua Fragrances
1.4997323545156
Gold Rose Dua Fragrances
1.4883402909689
Cristina Hilde Soliani
1.4753283333333
Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
1.4727190558997
Vintage Naturals 2009 Patchouli Demeter Fragrance
1.470588
Nue au Soleil Prada
1.4704678293951
Voleur de Roses L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.4699264104152
Musk Denim
1.4675081715225
ShanghaiJava Musc & Patchouli Crazylibellule and the Poppies
1.4617674104152
Rendezvous Night Urban Retreat
1.4615762350692
Kanion Classic Pollena Ewa
1.4584859402768
Wanton Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.458333
Tribal Arte Profumi
1.4546597052076
Mix 10 Platinum J
1.4545832350692
Patchouli Lost Dragon Teufels Kuche
1.454545
A.R.T. Etnic Eudora
1.4482856416609
Marrakech Patchouli E Ginger Tesori d`Oriente
1.4448263506921
Mysterieuse? Vanille Patchouli Sephora
1.4445204701384
Durrat Al Khaleej Reehat Al Atoor
1.444444
City Rain Neil Morris
1.4415201156228
Patchouli Tendre Soupir Des Filles a la Vanille
1.4404970558997
Genuine Patchouli Melvita
1.4383029364533
Patchouli Jalaine
1.4375382350692
Black Shark Paris Elysees
1.4334859402768
Ambra e Iris Dr. Vranjes Firenze
1.4290298208305
Patchouli Murdock London
1.4288386454844
Jivago 7 Elements Jivago
1.4286857052076
Patchouli Woman Bjork and Berries
1.4286474701384
Road Trip West Third Brand
1.4286474701384
Patchouli Rain Scent by the Sea
1.4286474701384
100 E. Marinella
1.4286474701384
Patchouly Compagnia Delle Indie
1.4286474701384
Patchouli Man Bjork and Berries
1.4286092350692
Patchouli Süßes Blut Teufels Kuche
1.428571
Patchouli La Belle Italienne Des Filles a la Vanille
1.428571
Tsuki DI SER
1.428571
Vintage Alan Bray
1.428571
No.6 Patchouli Spice Angela Flanders

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