Patchouli

lat. Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae

Group: WOODS AND MOSSES

Patchouli Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae
Patchouli Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae
Patchouli Pogostemon cablin, family Lamiaceae
Odor profile: An exotic bush that grows mainly in India, the leaves of which produce the essential oil of patchouli. Sweet, dark, with an earthy, woody edge, it is very popular in many blends, especially the contemporary woody floral musks. Synthetics and fractal extractions of the material also abound.

Patchouli is a wonderful green bushy herb of the mint family. It belongs to the genus Pogostemon and grows up to two or three feet in height. The herb is graced with delicate pinkish-white flowers and aromatic leaves that have been used for centuries in perfumery, due to their wonderful and strong scent. Patchouli is native to tropical regions of Asia, but it grows well in all warm to tropical climates. Nowadays, several varieties of the Pogostemon genus are cultivated allover Asia, West Africa and South America for their aromatic oil known as patchouli oil.

The name patchouli derives from the old Tamil words patchai, meaning "green", and ellai meaning "leaf". The origin of the name points out to the native land of this herb, stemming from the Dravidian language spoken mostly by Tamil people of the Indian subcontinent. The plant was brought to the Middle East along the silk route, and it was thanks to the famous conqueror Napoleon Bonaparte that patchouli reached Europe. Napoleon brought to France a couple of patchouli-scented cashmere shawls that he found in Egypt. The shawls were redolent of patchouli oil, which was used to repel insects and protect them from moths, but the origin of the scent was held as closely guarded secret. Wonderful patterns of the oriental fabrics have soon become easy to replicate, but sneaky European manufacturers were still forced to import the fragrant oil from the East. The secret was finally broken in 1837, when Francisco Manuel Blanco first described patchouli as Mentha cablin, revealing the secret of the mysterious oriental scent to the rest of the western world.

The world’s major craze for patchouli happened in the Europe and America during the 1960s and 1970s. This pungent scented oil that bears a strong reference to India was typically worn by the hippies, who were often associated with the Hare Krishna movement. Unfortunately, the hippies contributed to the bad reputation of patchouli oil because they were typically wearing very bad synthetic formulations. The association of patchouli with the hippie culture finally resulted in misperception of this raw material, and for most of us today, patchouli is just a synonym for too heady, too overwhelming and too common fragrance. Here is an example taken from the UrbanDictionary:

patchouli

  1. 1. A plant that smells like a Grateful Dead concert.
  2. 2. Not a shower, contrary to San Franciso's public policy on hygiene.
  3. 3. Slang term for Filty Filthy Hippie
"No hipppie, that's a bad hippie. Patchouli is not a shower!"

Of course, this example only illustrates another common fallacy and everyone who seriously wishes to explore the wonderful world of perfumery should remember that patchouli is the elementary unit of the entire class of perfumes – the chypre fragrances. The scent of patchouli is described as earthy and herbaceous with rich green heart and a woodsy base. The olfactory profile of patchouli oil, however, strongly depends on the cultivation techniques, time of the harvest, the process of drying and distillation techniques. The highest quality oil is obtained from only 3-4 top pairs of mature leaves, where the highest concentration of the purest oil is found. Proper drying is ensured by placing the cut stems and leaves on a dry surface and turning them over frequently to prevent rapid fermentation. When the process is complete, the leaves are stripped from the stems and placed in woven baskets to allow fermentation and release of their wonderful aroma. The final quality will also depend on the skill of the grower, who controls the level of fermentation by using his own nose. Only a small number of distilleries is specialized in production of this highly refined extract which finds its use in haute parfumerie.

Patchouli oil is obtained by steam distillation or CO2-extraction of the dried leaves. The oil has a rich, balsamic and herbaceous flavor with a minty-woody undertone. Patchouli absolute is a dark green liquid obtained by the solvent extraction of dried leaves. The absolute has a rich, pronouncedly sweet and herbaceous aroma with woody-balsamic undertone. They both blend perfectly with oriental bouquets, chypre and fougère-type fragrances, and powdery perfumes. Patchouli blends well with vetiver, which contains the same earthy olfactory profile, sandalwood, cedarwood, clove, lavender, rose, labdanum, and so on.

One of the most wonderful features of patchouli oil is that it becomes even better with aging. Freshly distilled oil may appear more green, tart and unmelodious in comparison to well aged oil that has a rich and full fruity-like nuance.

In the opus of L Artisan Parfumeur, there are two patchouli-dominated fragrances: the oriental fragrance for women Patchouli Patch, and oriental-woody men’s fragrance Voleur de Roses.

The floral woody musky fragrance for women Nuits de Noho, by Bond No9, features patchouli in the top notes, while Lorenzo Villoresi’s unisex Patchouli offers straightforward interpretation of this herb, laid on a base of woodsy and musky notes. Let me also mention a vintage creation, Patchouli Pour Homme by Reminiscence. Launched in 1970, this fragrance features geranium, cedar and patchouli in the middle notes.

Among the oriental woody fragrances, I would single out two wonderful unisex scents: Montale’s Patchouli Leaves and Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens. More refined, softer, and ultimately feminine interpretation of patchouli is offered in oriental vanilla fragrance for women - Angel by Thierry Mugler.

To embark on your own journey to discover more wonderful patchouli-based fragrances, use our search for notes.


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Patchouli Perfumes

1.5091304027686
Patchouli Absolu Tom Ford
1.5039025108608
Arthes Essential Patchouli Sumatra Jeanne Arthes
1.5034607171784
Patchouli Santa Maria Novella
1.5024298652529
Zizanie Fragonard
1.5022826006921
Patchouly Indonesiano Farmacia SS. Annunziata
1.5019144392902
Brutus Orto Parisi
1.501693542449
Patchouli Solinotes
1.501693542449
The Lover Gap
1.5016199101686
Patchouli The Body Shop
1.5015830940284
Velvet Patchouli Dolce&Gabbana
1.5013253810471
BOSS The Collection Cashmere & Patchouli Hugo Boss
1.5012517487667
A*Men Summer Flash Thierry Mugler
1.5009940357853
Patchouli Molinard
1.5008835873647
Tramp Lush
1.5008099550843
Live Joyously Philosophy
1.5007731389441
H&M Comme des Garcons
1.5006995066637
Fashion Decree Woman Atkinsons
1.5006995066637
Stardust Oriflame
1.5005890582431
Herbessence Helena Rubinstein
1.5005890582431
Patchouli Arawak Ligne St. Barth
1.5005522421029
Beyond Victoria`s Secret
1.5004417936824
Patchouli Crabtree & Evelyn
1.500368161402
Blackbird Meshaz Natural Perfumes
1.500368161402
Patchouli Demeter Fragrance
1.5003313452618
Dianoche Passion Daisy Fuentes
1.5003313452618
Patchouli C.O.Bigelow
1.5003313452618
Anise Patchouli Compagnie de Provence
1.5003313452618
Essence of Arabia Patchouli Syed Junaid Alam
1.5003313452618
Bodhi Sativa (Patchouli project no.1) DSH Perfumes
1.5002577129814
Patchouly Adopt` by Reserve Naturelle
1.5002577129814
Ravenous Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5002577129814
Patchouli Companhia da Terra
1.5002577129814
Bohème Alkemia Perfumes
1.5002577129814
Tunisian Patchouli Kuumba Made
1.500184080701
Patchouli Demeter Fragrance
1.500184080701
Cherie Hoity Toity
1.500184080701
Patchouly Pure Sin Teufels Kuche
1.500184080701
Patchouli TerraNova
1.500184080701
Patchouly Teufels Kuche
1.500184080701
Patchouli Molinard
1.500184080701
Mitti Arte Profumi
1.5001472645608
Patchouli Queen B
1.5001472645608
No. IX Patchouli Rose Mad et Len
1.5001104484206
Patchouli Les Ecuadors
1.5001104484206
Morass Teufels Kuche
1.5001104484206
Patchouli Durance en Provence
1.5001104484206
Patchouli Des Filles a la Vanille
1.5001104484206
Patchouli & Rose Suhad Perfumes
1.5001104484206
Patchouli & Musc Blanc Accord Parfait
1.5000736322804
Patchouly Incubus Teufels Kuche
1.5000736322804
Power Instinct Airness
1.5000736322804
Bleu Magador Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.5000736322804
Patchoulissimo Les Ecuadors
1.5000736322804
Pomegranate Patchouli Voluspa
1.5000736322804
04 Forest Patchouli Fred Segal
1.5000736322804
Depraved Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000736322804
Patchouli Avon
1.5000736322804
Patchouli Mercyful Almond Teufels Kuche
1.5000736322804
Patchouli Anglia Perfumery
1.5000736322804
Intense Patchouli La Maison de la Vanille
1.5000736322804
Black Patchouli Refan
1.5000736322804
Patchouli Rose Scent by the Sea
1.5000736322804
Master JoJo Handsome London
1.5000736322804
Mix 13 Platinum J
1.5000368161402
Piccolo Amor Cerchi Nell’Acqua
1.5000368161402
Patchouli Crisp Pear Teufels Kuche
1.5000368161402
Demonic Slayer Teufels Kuche
1.5000368161402
Unholy Teufels Kuche
1.5000368161402
Lonach Castle Forbes
1.5000368161402
Masquerade Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000368161402
Patchouli Coconut Junky Teufels Kuche
1.5000368161402
Cuir Patchouli Elie Saab
1.5000368161402
Mind Matter Tromborg
1.5000368161402
Ippi Patchouli Carrement Belle
1.5000368161402
MTV Man MTV Perfumes
1.5
No. 2 Aromatologic
1.5
Merci Intense Jequiti
1.5
Haraayer Reehat Al Atoor
1.5
Unveiled Red Pearl
1.5
Patchouli Vintage The Merchant of Venice
1.5
Fogos Ésika
1.5
Amour de Patchouli Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.5
Scorpio Ajne
1.5
Paris - Saint-Honore Stephanie de Bruijn - Parfum sur Mesure
1.5
Une Vie en Or pour Homme Frederic M
1.5
Dark Patchouli Scent by the Sea
1.5
Blood Edition - Holy Vampire Teufels Kuche
1.5
Patchouli Saint Charles Shave
1.5
Sexy Patchouli Harvey Prince
1.5
Blood Edition - Gothic Poison Teufels Kuche
1.5
Patchouli Spicy Cinnamon Teufels Kuche
1.5
Patchouli Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.5
Patchouli YanFroloff Perfumer
1.5
Flambee Dilis Parfum
1.5
Patchouli Shadow Teufels Kuche
1.5
Patchouli Spirit Of Musk Teufels Kuche
1.5
Patchouli Les Petits Plaisirs
1.5
Argonaut STILLLIFE
1.5
Patchouly Lavandula Teufels Kuche
1.5
Patchouli Passion Charme Essência
1.5
Jungle Code Bi-es
1.4999631838598
Patchouli Love Ulric de Varens
1.4999631838598
Oui, mais il a aime Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque
1.4999631838598
192 Light Refan
1.4999263677196
Oriental Rose Vertus
1.4999263677196
Burial Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.499815919299
Azraq Dua Fragrances
1.4886885873647
Marrakech Patchouli E Ginger Tesori d`Oriente
1.4883204259627
Cristina Hilde Soliani
1.4758213333333
Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
1.4740395767617
Voleur de Roses L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.4727006098225
Vintage Naturals 2009 Patchouli Demeter Fragrance
1.4709193452618
Patchouli Intense Eau de Parfum Molinard
1.4707352645608
Erdbeermund Teufels Kuche
1.4706616322804
Nue au Soleil Prada
1.470065161402
Musk Denim
1.4674769550843
ShanghaiJava Musc & Patchouli Crazylibellule and the Poppies
1.4671824259627
Patchouli Leaves Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.4617588968412
Rendezvous Night Urban Retreat
1.4616116322804
Kanion Classic Pollena Ewa
1.458517080701
Wanton Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.458333
Tribal Arte Profumi
1.4546554484206
Mix 10 Platinum J
1.4545818161402
Patchouli Lost Dragon Teufels Kuche
1.454545
A.R.T. Etnic Eudora
1.444812161402
Mysterieuse? Vanille Patchouli Sephora
1.4445176322804
Durrat Al Khaleej Reehat Al Atoor
1.444444
City Rain Neil Morris
1.444444
Patchoulystan ArteOlfatto
1.4415073452618
Patchouli Tendre Soupir Des Filles a la Vanille
1.4404786098225
Genuine Patchouli Melvita
1.4391344484206
Road Trip West Third Brand
1.4382731389441
Patchouli Jalaine
1.4375
Black Shark Paris Elysees
1.4363019775422
Caoba Fueguia 1833
1.4335907129814
Ambra e Iris Dr. Vranjes Firenze
1.4290127936824
Patchouli Murdock London
1.4289023452618
Jivago 7 Elements Jivago
1.4288287129814
Lily Theo Parfums
1.4286814484206
Patchouli Woman Bjork and Berries
1.4286446322804
Patchouly Compagnia Delle Indie
1.4286446322804
Patchouli Rain Scent by the Sea
1.4286446322804
No.6 Patchouli Spice Angela Flanders
1.4286446322804
Patchouli Man Bjork and Berries
1.4286446322804
100 E. Marinella
1.4286078161402
Patchouli Süßes Blut Teufels Kuche
1.4286078161402
Imperial Patchouli Police
1.4286078161402
Tsuki DI SER
1.428571
Wafa Attar Asgharali
1.428571
Vintage Alan Bray

Advertisement

Advertisement

Popular brands and perfumes: