Vetiver

lat. Vetiveria Zizanoid
Other names: vetivert, khus

Group: Woods and Mosses

Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Odor profile: Essence from the Eastern Asian weed grass Vetiveria zizanoid that falls under the woods category thanks to its musty, dry, woody scent with bitter chocolate and smoke facets. Very popular in niche perfumery and masculine fragrances. The reference vetivers are Carven's, Givenchy's and Guerlain's classic renditions.

VETIVER – A COOL FRAGRANCE


The best features of vetiver, the aromatic verdancy, the fragrant rootiness, the subtle, refreshing citrusiness, the enjoyable earthiness, a wonderful hint of woodiness, and a certain Guerlainesque leathery-ambery darkness in the drydown. Vetiver oil is obtained by steam distillation of roots of vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides). The oil is one of the finest oriental perfumes with a persistent fragrance. In blended perfumes oil of vetiver acts as an excellent fixatives for volatile compounds. It is known for its cooling properties.

HABITAT

A commercially large population of Khas (Vetiver) grass grows in wet and damp environments over marshy places and riverbanks. The plant has a unique characteristic of being xerophyte (tolerates prolonged drought) but it survive under long seasonal flooding; it tolerates extreme temperature and grows over a wide range of soil pH. The grass grows luxuriantly in areas with an annual rainfall of 800 -2000 mm and temperature ranging from 22 to 400 C. Marshy riverbeds with sandy loam are best suited for this grass.

BOTANY
 

Common name: Vetiver
Botanical Name – Vetiveria zizanioides
Family: Gramineae / Poaceae

This family is known as the grass and the nutritious family. It is so named because the plant members are grasses and the plants are known for their ability to provide nutrients to the soil.

               Other common names

Akar Wangi - fragrant root - name used in Java, Khus Khus – aromatic root - name used in India, Oil of tranquility - name used in Sri Lanka.

Vetiver is a tall (1.5-2.0 m) perennial grass. It has a small stout rhizomatous stolen which gives rise to spongy, fibrous, dense roots system. Roots have aromatic properties and grow 20-30 cm deep in medium textured marginal soils under cultivation. Tremendous diversity exists with respect to pattern of growth, orientation and thickness of roots, as well as for occurrence of secondary roots. The bast region of root is the source of essential oil. The leaves are linear, narrow, erect, grassy, keeled with glabrous joint scabrid margins. Inflorescence is a panicle, up to 15-45 cm long, bearing numerous racemes in whorl on a central axis. The lower spikelets are reduced to lamena.

The upper spikelets are narrow, acute, appressed, awnless, green, grey or purplish in colour, 4-6 mm long, arranged in pairs. One floret in spike is sessile and bisexual; this bisexual floret has a glabrous callus, 3 stamens and 2 plumose stigmas. The other floret is pedicelled and staminate. Java vetiver is non flowering type has broader leaves (1.1 mm), medium thick stems, bushy growth bearing flowers with high pollen sterility; the plants give out more branching roots with higher oil content and the oil is dextro-rotatory in nature.
 

HISTORY and MYTH

Vetiver has a long and rich history. In India it has been used to make blinds necessary to keep out the intense heat. When the blinds are sprinkled with water they emit the vetiver scent. In Java the root has been used for centuries in weaving mats and thatching huts. The Vetiver root is used in folk magic for its purported ability to provide safety and increase financial resources. A ritual designed to promote personal safety calls for inhaling Vetiver while visualizing one’s body as being sealed off from negative energies.

COUNTRIES of ORIGIN


Vetiver is native to South India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. It is also cultivated in Reunion, the Philippines, the Comoro Islands, Japan, West Africa and South America. The oil is mainly produced in Java, Haiti and Reunion.

PERFUME IN ITS OWN RIGHT (COOLING PERFUME)

In World market the demand for vetiver oil is increasing day by day due to its unique odour, for which it is used in both flavour and fragrance industries. Moreover, this oil cannot be substituted with reconstituted oil and cannot be made through synthetically. Vetiver perfumes give pleasing aroma and has slow evaporation rate. Pure vetiver (Khus) root oil known in trade as “Ruh – Khus” and its use in scents since ancient time. Vetiver oil is the basis of the Indian perfume ‘Majmua’ and is the major ingredient in some 36% of all western perfumes (e.g. Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence, Parure, Opium ) and 20% of all men’s fragrances.

Its complex chemical composition and oil odour, high solubility in alcohol that improves its miscibility with other perfumery material, makes it a unique perfumery resource for which no synthetic substitute is yet available. In addition to its own perfumery value on account of vetiver hydrocarbons compounds and carbonyl compounds, their alcohol derivatives i.e. vetiverols lend unique position to vetiver oil for perfumery applications as a valuable resource. Also, vetiverol could be acetylated with acetic anhydride to produce vetiveryl acetate.
 

Both vetiverols and acetates have softer odours and fixative qualities, and are used as blender with high-class perfumery products. They blend well with ionone, linalool, cinnamic alcohol, oakmoss, vanila, sandalwood, patchouli and rose bases, and are frequently used in western type of fragrances having chypre, fougere, rose, violet and amber aldehyde base, and oriental fragrances and floral compounds.

In addition to its direct perfumery applications, vetiver oil in its diluted form is extensively used in after-shave lotions, air freshners and bathing purposes, as well as flavoring syrups, ice cream, cosmetic and food preservation. Khus essence is used in cool drinks, and for reducing pungency of chewing tobacco preparations, providing sweet note to other masticatories and incense sticks.

 

OTHER USES

Vetiver oil is used in perfumery, cosmetics and soaps and for flavouring sherbets (Indian cool drinks).

Dried roots are also used to perfume the linen cloths.

The roots have been used for making screens, mats, hand fans and baskets. The screens are hung like curtains in the houses and when sprinkled water, impart a fragrant coolness to the air; they are in great demand during the summer.

For desert coolers in summer in North India.
Roots for preparing Sherbet or soft drink during summer, especially in North India.


Images of vetiver: wikipedia, treesftf

 


Author: Dr. Chandra Shekhar Gupta

Senior Research Fellow
Plant Quarantine Division
National Bearue of Plant Genetic Resources
Pusa Campus, New Delhi

 



 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Vetiver

1.5903824583006
Encre Noire Lalique
1.5083398829797
La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Vetiver Christian Dior
1.5041481093354
Malizia Uomo Vetyver Mirato
1.5016592437342
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.5013535935726
Vetiver Zara
1.5013535935726
Turtle Vetiver Back Les Nez
1.5013535935726
Molecule 03 Escentric Molecules
1.5012226006462
Royall Vetiver Royall Fragrances
1.5009606147935
Turtle Vetiver Les Nez
1.5008296218671
Intense Vetyver Zara
1.5008296218671
Mon Numero 3 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.5007422932495
4711 Acqua Colonia Vetyver & Bergamot Maurer & Wirtz
1.5006113003231
Vetiver Elizabeth W
1.5005676360143
Black Vetiver Phaedon
1.5005676360143
Athunis Sigilli
1.5005239717055
Baby Musk House of Matriarch
1.5005239717055
Vetiver Santa Maria Novella
1.5004366430879
Cologne Intense Borsalino
1.5003929787791
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.5003056501616
Capim Cheiroso Companhia da Terra
1.5003056501616
Mix 18 Platinum J
1.5003056501616
Zeste de Vétiver Durance en Provence
1.5003056501616
Supercilium O`Driu
1.5001746572352
Nymph Nina`s Nature
1.5001309929264
Zara Sport 615 Zara
1.5001309929264
Muschio di Quercia (Oak Moss) La Via del Profumo
1.5001309929264
Verde Citro Natura
1.5000873286176
Hurricane Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000873286176
Agua de Vetiver Angel Schlesser
1.5000873286176
Conviction Elysees Fashion
1.5000873286176
El 8 de Gran Vía Loewe
1.5000436643088
Wood Nina`s Nature
1.5000436643088
Black Shot Pull and Bear
1.5
Love's Torments Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Prurience Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Yurei Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Vetiver Candora
1.5
Incantation Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Spring Vetiver 40 Notes Perfume
1.4999126713824
Aurora Terra Micaelangelo
1.4999126713824
Highwayman Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4999126713824
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.4998253427648
Saturnalia Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4998253427648
Vitrum Sammarco
1.4998253427648
The Botanist MiN New York
1.496735081041
Woman Donna Karan
1.4674966218671
Cuba Grey Cuba Paris
1.4619746430879
Turtle Vetiver Front Les Nez
1.4524426218671
Vetiver of Haiti The 7 Virtues
1.4450989646319
Hornero Fueguia 1833
1.4446186572352
179-001 Informal Scent Spectator
1.4445749929264
Les Bohemes: Bootleg Opus Oils
1.4422676077198
Magazine Street Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.4371313240765
Terre d'Hermes Hermes
1.4363895016156
Eau de Vetyver Givenchy
1.4321236501616
Vetiver Racinettes Ayala Moriel
1.4287019929264
Madeiras Amazonia Viva
1.4287019929264
Our Story For Him Avon
1.4286146643088
Very "V" Saint Charles Shave
1.428571
Black Romane
1.4285273356912
Julie Arno Sorel
1.4258575794254
Onda Voile d`Extrait Vero Profumo
1.423295321544
Vetiver Jalaine
1.4209705794254
Vetiver Bourbon Miller Harris
1.4170599787791
No. 06 Green Bergamot & Vetiver Rituals
1.4167543286176
Maharishi Rich Hippie
1.4147141305563
Vetyver Jo Malone
1.4095248231595
onda Vero Profumo
1.4005676360143
Vetiver de Puig Antonio Puig
1.4004803073967
Blood Kiss Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4002619858528
Rendezvous Night Urban Retreat
1.4002544664221
Grey Vetiver Tom Ford
1.3926139292638
The Natural Gap
1.3924589009693
Velvet Vetiver Dolce&Gabbana
1.3903299221902
Cowboy Grass D.S. & Durga
1.3878392932495
Vetiver de la Reunion L`Erbolario
1.3860133333333
Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
1.3846586643088
Aube Drift Parfum de Terre
1.3786761531744
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Chanel
1.3771616740023
Vetiver Guerlain
1.3757859575583
1902 Vetiver Parfums Berdoues
1.3756113003231
Osmo Scents Vetiver de Java Il Profvmo
1.3754366430879
Aromatic Blends: Vetiver & Black Tea Kiehl`s
1.3753493144704
Water Bath Priprioca Natura
1.3750873286176
Eau de Vetyver Le Jardin Retrouve
1.3714575228364
Haitian Vetiver Ermenegildo Zegna
1.3708066430879
That 70`s Smell Botanical Perfume Esscentual Alchemy
1.3688139787791
Lavande & Vetiver Jeanne en Provence
1.3685956572352
Pink Vetiver Jo Loves
1.3660299517946
La Nuit de l`Homme Yves Saint Laurent
1.3646839434111
Iris & Lady Moore Jo Malone
1.3575359787791
New Experience Man Tom Tailor
1.3562158231595
Woods Abercrombie & Fitch
1.3505239717055
Vetivera Herbacea Parfums Berdoues
1.3504525794254
Aveda Men Pure-formance Aroma Spray Aveda
1.3504366430879
Ellie Ellie Perfume
1.3457012861759
No. 17 Vetiver & Bergamot Rituals
1.3455266289407
Cereus No.5 Cereus
1.3442739717055
Darwin Fueguia 1833
1.3417960315256
Les Parfums Mythiques - Vetiver Givenchy
1.3358328579163
Eau de Vétyver L`Occitane en Provence
1.334599264955
Aquae Nobilis Profumum Roma
1.3340993170902
Vetiver Extraordinaire Frederic Malle
1.3340752932495
That's Amore! Lui Gai Mattiolo
1.3339006360143
Sandalo del Kashmir & Vetiver Tesori d`Oriente
1.3337259787791
Mix 11 Platinum J
1.3336823144704
Ombre Fumee Evody Parfums
1.3335949858528
Sunrise Urban Men Franck Olivier
1.3335949858528
Andy Roddick Parlux
1.3335076572352
Loup des Steppes Sama
1.3334639929264
Stra-Vivara Emilio Pucci
1.3334203286176
Bal de Bain Regency Cosmetics
1.333333
Tasman in Grey Code Deco
1.333333
Caspian Angela Flanders
1.333333
Trapeze Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3331715228364
Fumidus Profumum Roma
1.3331570418304
Infusion de Vetiver Prada
1.3325012489739
Eau Sauvage Parfum Christian Dior
1.3264799787791
Entice Him Ajmal
1.3252408829797
Absinth Nasomatto
1.3235852791023
Silver Man Benetton
1.3234094025849
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.3228866501616
01 06 Lime Absolue Fragrance Republic
1.3202619858528
Bon Zai Ayala Moriel
1.3197272611126
Comme Des Garcons Series 4 Cologne : Vettiveru Comme des Garcons
1.3193172720286
Vetiver Veritas James Heeley
1.3185749787791
Precious One Angela Flanders
1.3183566572352
Divine: Eros Opus Oils
1.3178848868221
08 Seylon Odin
1.3169679363374
Vetiver Sport Guerlain
1.3160509858528
Masculin 2 Vetyver Bourjois
1.3129366430879
Aurum Natura
1.3128163569121
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.312718321544
Zara Black Tag Zara
1.3126746572352
Tobacco Mucho Stephanie de Saint-Aignan
1.3124514096585
Vetiver Etro
1.3113060206096
Sel de Vetiver The Different Company
1.3107816430879
Tamboti Wood Susanne Lang
1.3086962791023
Up To You for Him Avon
1.3077793286176
Megumi Ayala Moriel
1.3056579292638
Chakra 1 Motivation Aveda
1.3043916643088
Cowgirl Grass D.S. & Durga
1.304348
Vanillaman Neil Morris
1.303592264955
Canturi Stefano Canturi
1.3034589151166
Time For Peace Kenzo
1.3023729575583
Rose Infernale Terry de Gunzburg
1.3007859575583
Modoc Xerjoff
1.3005790930923
Narciso Rodriguez For Her Narciso Rodriguez
1.3005676360143
Freedom Sport Tommy Hilfiger
1.3004803073967
Estivalia Antonio Puig

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