Vetiver

lat. Vetiveria Zizanoid
Other names: vetivert, khus

Group: WOODS AND MOSSES

Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Odor profile: Essence from the Eastern Asian weed grass Vetiveria zizanoid that falls under the woods category thanks to its musty, dry, woody scent with bitter chocolate and smoke facets. Very popular in niche perfumery and masculine fragrances. The reference vetivers are Carven's, Givenchy's and Guerlain's classic renditions.

VETIVER – A COOL FRAGRANCE


The best features of vetiver, the aromatic verdancy, the fragrant rootiness, the subtle, refreshing citrusiness, the enjoyable earthiness, a wonderful hint of woodiness, and a certain Guerlainesque leathery-ambery darkness in the drydown. Vetiver oil is obtained by steam distillation of roots of vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides). The oil is one of the finest oriental perfumes with a persistent fragrance. In blended perfumes oil of vetiver acts as an excellent fixatives for volatile compounds. It is known for its cooling properties.

HABITAT

A commercially large population of Khas (Vetiver) grass grows in wet and damp environments over marshy places and riverbanks. The plant has a unique characteristic of being xerophyte (tolerates prolonged drought) but it survive under long seasonal flooding; it tolerates extreme temperature and grows over a wide range of soil pH. The grass grows luxuriantly in areas with an annual rainfall of 800 -2000 mm and temperature ranging from 22 to 400 C. Marshy riverbeds with sandy loam are best suited for this grass.

BOTANY
 

Common name: Vetiver
Botanical Name – Vetiveria zizanioides
Family: Gramineae / Poaceae

This family is known as the grass and the nutritious family. It is so named because the plant members are grasses and the plants are known for their ability to provide nutrients to the soil.

               Other common names

Akar Wangi - fragrant root - name used in Java, Khus Khus – aromatic root - name used in India, Oil of tranquility - name used in Sri Lanka.

Vetiver is a tall (1.5-2.0 m) perennial grass. It has a small stout rhizomatous stolen which gives rise to spongy, fibrous, dense roots system. Roots have aromatic properties and grow 20-30 cm deep in medium textured marginal soils under cultivation. Tremendous diversity exists with respect to pattern of growth, orientation and thickness of roots, as well as for occurrence of secondary roots. The bast region of root is the source of essential oil. The leaves are linear, narrow, erect, grassy, keeled with glabrous joint scabrid margins. Inflorescence is a panicle, up to 15-45 cm long, bearing numerous racemes in whorl on a central axis. The lower spikelets are reduced to lamena.

The upper spikelets are narrow, acute, appressed, awnless, green, grey or purplish in colour, 4-6 mm long, arranged in pairs. One floret in spike is sessile and bisexual; this bisexual floret has a glabrous callus, 3 stamens and 2 plumose stigmas. The other floret is pedicelled and staminate. Java vetiver is non flowering type has broader leaves (1.1 mm), medium thick stems, bushy growth bearing flowers with high pollen sterility; the plants give out more branching roots with higher oil content and the oil is dextro-rotatory in nature.
 

HISTORY and MYTH

Vetiver has a long and rich history. In India it has been used to make blinds necessary to keep out the intense heat. When the blinds are sprinkled with water they emit the vetiver scent. In Java the root has been used for centuries in weaving mats and thatching huts. The Vetiver root is used in folk magic for its purported ability to provide safety and increase financial resources. A ritual designed to promote personal safety calls for inhaling Vetiver while visualizing one’s body as being sealed off from negative energies.

COUNTRIES of ORIGIN


Vetiver is native to South India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. It is also cultivated in Reunion, the Philippines, the Comoro Islands, Japan, West Africa and South America. The oil is mainly produced in Java, Haiti and Reunion.

PERFUME IN ITS OWN RIGHT (COOLING PERFUME)

In World market the demand for vetiver oil is increasing day by day due to its unique odour, for which it is used in both flavour and fragrance industries. Moreover, this oil cannot be substituted with reconstituted oil and cannot be made through synthetically. Vetiver perfumes give pleasing aroma and has slow evaporation rate. Pure vetiver (Khus) root oil known in trade as “Ruh – Khus” and its use in scents since ancient time. Vetiver oil is the basis of the Indian perfume ‘Majmua’ and is the major ingredient in some 36% of all western perfumes (e.g. Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence, Parure, Opium ) and 20% of all men’s fragrances.

Its complex chemical composition and oil odour, high solubility in alcohol that improves its miscibility with other perfumery material, makes it a unique perfumery resource for which no synthetic substitute is yet available. In addition to its own perfumery value on account of vetiver hydrocarbons compounds and carbonyl compounds, their alcohol derivatives i.e. vetiverols lend unique position to vetiver oil for perfumery applications as a valuable resource. Also, vetiverol could be acetylated with acetic anhydride to produce vetiveryl acetate.
 

Both vetiverols and acetates have softer odours and fixative qualities, and are used as blender with high-class perfumery products. They blend well with ionone, linalool, cinnamic alcohol, oakmoss, vanila, sandalwood, patchouli and rose bases, and are frequently used in western type of fragrances having chypre, fougere, rose, violet and amber aldehyde base, and oriental fragrances and floral compounds.

In addition to its direct perfumery applications, vetiver oil in its diluted form is extensively used in after-shave lotions, air freshners and bathing purposes, as well as flavoring syrups, ice cream, cosmetic and food preservation. Khus essence is used in cool drinks, and for reducing pungency of chewing tobacco preparations, providing sweet note to other masticatories and incense sticks.

 

OTHER USES

Vetiver oil is used in perfumery, cosmetics and soaps and for flavouring sherbets (Indian cool drinks).

Dried roots are also used to perfume the linen cloths.

The roots have been used for making screens, mats, hand fans and baskets. The screens are hung like curtains in the houses and when sprinkled water, impart a fragrant coolness to the air; they are in great demand during the summer.

For desert coolers in summer in North India.
Roots for preparing Sherbet or soft drink during summer, especially in North India.


Images of vetiver: wikipedia, treesftf

 


Author: Dr. Chandra Shekhar Gupta

Senior Research Fellow
Plant Quarantine Division
National Bearue of Plant Genetic Resources
Pusa Campus, New Delhi

 



 

 

 

Vetiver Perfumes

1.5749260542017
Encre Noire Lalique
1.5087786398572
La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Vetiver Christian Dior
1.5053181801625
Malizia Uomo Vetyver Mirato
1.5021855534914
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.501529887444
Molecule 03 Escentric Molecules
1.5013841838779
Vetiver Zara
1.5010927767457
Royall Vetiver Royall Lyme Bermuda
1.5010199249627
Turtle Vetiver Back Les Nez
1.5009470731796
Vetiver Santa Maria Novella
1.5008742213966
Vetiver of Haiti The 7 Virtues
1.500837795505
Turtle Vetiver Les Nez
1.5008013696135
4711 Acqua Colonia Vetyver & Bergamot Maurer & Wirtz
1.500764943722
Mon Numero 3 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.5007285178305
Intense Vetyver Zara
1.500692091939
Supercilium O`Driu
1.5006192401559
Zeste de Vétiver Durance en Provence
1.5003642589152
Helen Carnate Smell Bent
1.5002549812407
Black Linen Joseph Abboud
1.5002185553491
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.5001821294576
Vetyver Outremer
1.5001457035661
Verde Citro Natura
1.5001457035661
Black Shot Pull and Bear
1.5001457035661
El 8 de Gran Vía Loewe
1.5001457035661
Mix 18 Platinum J
1.5001457035661
Nymph Nina`s Nature
1.5001092776746
Portrait of New York - Vetiver Ralph Lauren
1.5001092776746
Color Me Blue Milton Lloyd
1.5001092776746
Zara Sport 615 Zara
1.5001092776746
Prurience Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5001092776746
Vetivert Hové Parfumeur, Ltd.
1.5001092776746
Wood Nina`s Nature
1.500072851783
Vetivert Bourbon French Parfums
1.500072851783
Vetiver Proximity Axe
1.500072851783
Eau de Vetyver Le Galion
1.500072851783
Love's Torments Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000364258915
Black Network Lomani
1.5000364258915
Vetiver Bourbon The Merchant of Venice
1.5000364258915
A Day in Grasse Arts&Scents
1.5000364258915
Hurricane Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000364258915
Vetiver & Petitgrain Splash Tauerville
1.5
Vovo Natura
1.5
Vetiver Candora
1.499927148217
Aurora Terra Micaelangelo
1.499927148217
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.499927148217
01 Sweet Wood Desire Body Conjure
1.4789583677558
Mirror Mirror Collection - Miroir Des Vanites Mugler
1.4655166848068
Turtle Vetiver Front Les Nez
1.4651805891524
Eau de Vetyver Givenchy
1.4622665178305
Madrona House of Matriarch
1.4621572401559
Rain Day Derek Lam 10 Crosby
1.4618658330237
Djinn House of Orpheus
1.456765796015
Terre d'Hermes Hermes
1.4545085741085
Yurei Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4519772589152
Swiss Army Unlimited Snowpower Victorinox Swiss Army
1.4504006848068
Symphonie-Passion Unum
1.4497085178305
Hornero Fueguia 1833
1.4425401820202
Eau de Cartier Vetiver Bleu Cartier
1.4409966248133
Woman Donna Karan
1.4297002026372
Vetiver Sport Guerlain
1.428571
Black Romane
1.4234688499253
Cowboy Grass D.S. & Durga
1.4231862776746
Vetiver Jalaine
1.4210878499253
Vetiver Veritas James Heeley
1.4200482026372
The Natural Gap
1.4180944596948
Woods 2010 Edition Abercrombie & Fitch
1.4170312589152
No. 06 Green Bergamot & Vetiver Rituals
1.416739851783
Legni Nature`s
1.4166305741085
Maharishi Rich Hippie
1.4110418330237
Capim Cheiroso Companhia da Terra
1.4083176472881
Vetiver de Puig Antonio Puig
1.4080626660474
Athunis Sigilli
1.4078794156194
La Nuit de l`Homme Yves Saint Laurent
1.4076984071322
Aktis Korres
1.4047285365898
Divine Attraction Initio Parfums Prives
1.4018577204677
Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
1.4010199249627
Black Vetiver Phaedon
1.4001457035661
Legendary Penthouse
1.4000364258915
Eau de Vetyver Le Jardin Retrouve
1.4
Vetyver Dolce Il Profumiere
1.4
Arancia MPF
1.3935654765964
Haitian Vetiver Ermenegildo Zegna
1.3924119812407
Our Story For Him Avon
1.3915624229046
Grey Vetiver Tom Ford
1.3914497035661
Incantation Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3910388124067
Velvet Vetiver Dolce&Gabbana
1.3907903883729
Muschio di Quercia (Oak Moss) La Via del Profumo
1.3899453508542
Magazine Street Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3863453114778
Vetyver Jo Malone
1.3854892213966
Vetiver Elizabeth W
1.3846514258915
Aube Drift Parfum de Terre
1.384615
Energy Fusion for Men Avon
1.3827172589152
Baby Musk House of Matriarch
1.3808093333333
Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
1.3799292401559
Vetivera Herbacea Parfums Berdoues
1.3796529062033
Modoc Xerjoff
1.3794192776746
Java Wood Premiere Note
1.375072851783
Lichen & Vetiver Voluspa
1.3750364258915
Vetivier & Chocolat Hildegard Braukmann
1.375
Chernoe Domino Severnoye Siyanie
1.375
Spring Vetiver 40 Notes Perfume
1.375
Baron Lui Niche
1.3707342589152
Vitrum Sammarco
1.3706614071322
That 70`s Smell Botanical Perfume Esscentual Alchemy
1.3705885553491
Vetiver Natura
1.3704151877755
Vetiver Guerlain
1.368493851783
Strictly Night Jil Sander
1.3675301426438
Les Parfums Mythiques - Vetiver Givenchy
1.3675167917896
Nirvana Rose Elizabeth and James
1.3643645178305
L'Eau de Paille Serge Lutens
1.364328091939
Estivalia Antonio Puig
1.3637817035661
Les Bohemes: Bootleg Opus Oils
1.3633879418643
onda Vero Profumo
1.3621494615525
Vetiver Bourbon Miller Harris
1.3612567035661
Pink Vetiver Jo Loves
1.3611463228063
Infusion de Vetiver Prada
1.3587095553491
Madeiras Amazonia Viva
1.3577986660474
Eau Fraîche Molinard
1.3573251294576
Notte d'amore Pantheon Roma
1.355584739227
Sultan Vetiver Nishane
1.3544429855025
Eau Sauvage Parfum Christian Dior
1.3540337767457
Iris & Lady Moore Jo Malone
1.3533052589152
Terre de Cèdre Acorelle
1.352941
Vetiver Indien Paul Emilien
1.3522891106983
Darwin Fueguia 1833
1.3515695553491
Loup des Steppes Sama
1.349401626671
Fumidus Profumum Roma
1.347756739227
Aveda Men Pure-formance Aroma Spray Aveda
1.3464089812407
Caffe Delle Vergini Hilde Soliani
1.3460525178305
Emotional Rescue Mark Buxton
1.3459362421958
Eau de Vétyver L`Occitane en Provence
1.3443692401559
Cuba Grey Cuba Paris
1.3425514203184
Cuir Vetiver Yves Rocher
1.3411639812407
Citadelle Raw Spirit Fragrances
1.3397382758169
Onda Voile d`Extrait Vero Profumo
1.3389719624813
Osmo Scents Vetiver de Java Il Profvmo
1.3350450169016
Aquae Nobilis Profumum Roma
1.3342072213966
Eau du Kashmir Rituals
1.334170795505
Vetiver de la Reunion L`Erbolario
1.3337701106983
Castaña Cloon Keen Atelier
1.3337336848068
Vetyver Florascent
1.3336972589152
Shaded Diane Pernet
1.3336608330237
Fantome de Maules Stora Skuggan
1.3336244071322
Eau Inexplicable Thirdman
1.3336244071322
179-001 Informal Scent Spectator
1.3336244071322
Spice Blend/ Vetiver April Aromatics
1.3335151294576
Sinai Kesling
1.3334469123229
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Chanel
1.3334422776746
White Leather N°17 The Master Perfumer
1.333405851783
Maratons (Marathon) Dzintars
1.333405851783
A & F 1892 Cobalt Abercrombie & Fitch

Advertisement

Advertisement

Popular brands and perfumes: