Vetiver

lat. Vetiveria Zizanoid
Other names: vetivert, khus

Group: Woods and Mosses

Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Odor profile: Essence from the Eastern Asian weed grass Vetiveria zizanoid that falls under the woods category thanks to its musty, dry, woody scent with bitter chocolate and smoke facets. Very popular in niche perfumery and masculine fragrances. The reference vetivers are Carven's, Givenchy's and Guerlain's classic renditions.

VETIVER – A COOL FRAGRANCE


The best features of vetiver, the aromatic verdancy, the fragrant rootiness, the subtle, refreshing citrusiness, the enjoyable earthiness, a wonderful hint of woodiness, and a certain Guerlainesque leathery-ambery darkness in the drydown. Vetiver oil is obtained by steam distillation of roots of vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides). The oil is one of the finest oriental perfumes with a persistent fragrance. In blended perfumes oil of vetiver acts as an excellent fixatives for volatile compounds. It is known for its cooling properties.

HABITAT

A commercially large population of Khas (Vetiver) grass grows in wet and damp environments over marshy places and riverbanks. The plant has a unique characteristic of being xerophyte (tolerates prolonged drought) but it survive under long seasonal flooding; it tolerates extreme temperature and grows over a wide range of soil pH. The grass grows luxuriantly in areas with an annual rainfall of 800 -2000 mm and temperature ranging from 22 to 400 C. Marshy riverbeds with sandy loam are best suited for this grass.

BOTANY
 

Common name: Vetiver
Botanical Name – Vetiveria zizanioides
Family: Gramineae / Poaceae

This family is known as the grass and the nutritious family. It is so named because the plant members are grasses and the plants are known for their ability to provide nutrients to the soil.

               Other common names

Akar Wangi - fragrant root - name used in Java, Khus Khus – aromatic root - name used in India, Oil of tranquility - name used in Sri Lanka.

Vetiver is a tall (1.5-2.0 m) perennial grass. It has a small stout rhizomatous stolen which gives rise to spongy, fibrous, dense roots system. Roots have aromatic properties and grow 20-30 cm deep in medium textured marginal soils under cultivation. Tremendous diversity exists with respect to pattern of growth, orientation and thickness of roots, as well as for occurrence of secondary roots. The bast region of root is the source of essential oil. The leaves are linear, narrow, erect, grassy, keeled with glabrous joint scabrid margins. Inflorescence is a panicle, up to 15-45 cm long, bearing numerous racemes in whorl on a central axis. The lower spikelets are reduced to lamena.

The upper spikelets are narrow, acute, appressed, awnless, green, grey or purplish in colour, 4-6 mm long, arranged in pairs. One floret in spike is sessile and bisexual; this bisexual floret has a glabrous callus, 3 stamens and 2 plumose stigmas. The other floret is pedicelled and staminate. Java vetiver is non flowering type has broader leaves (1.1 mm), medium thick stems, bushy growth bearing flowers with high pollen sterility; the plants give out more branching roots with higher oil content and the oil is dextro-rotatory in nature.
 

HISTORY and MYTH

Vetiver has a long and rich history. In India it has been used to make blinds necessary to keep out the intense heat. When the blinds are sprinkled with water they emit the vetiver scent. In Java the root has been used for centuries in weaving mats and thatching huts. The Vetiver root is used in folk magic for its purported ability to provide safety and increase financial resources. A ritual designed to promote personal safety calls for inhaling Vetiver while visualizing one’s body as being sealed off from negative energies.

COUNTRIES of ORIGIN


Vetiver is native to South India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. It is also cultivated in Reunion, the Philippines, the Comoro Islands, Japan, West Africa and South America. The oil is mainly produced in Java, Haiti and Reunion.

PERFUME IN ITS OWN RIGHT (COOLING PERFUME)

In World market the demand for vetiver oil is increasing day by day due to its unique odour, for which it is used in both flavour and fragrance industries. Moreover, this oil cannot be substituted with reconstituted oil and cannot be made through synthetically. Vetiver perfumes give pleasing aroma and has slow evaporation rate. Pure vetiver (Khus) root oil known in trade as “Ruh – Khus” and its use in scents since ancient time. Vetiver oil is the basis of the Indian perfume ‘Majmua’ and is the major ingredient in some 36% of all western perfumes (e.g. Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence, Parure, Opium ) and 20% of all men’s fragrances.

Its complex chemical composition and oil odour, high solubility in alcohol that improves its miscibility with other perfumery material, makes it a unique perfumery resource for which no synthetic substitute is yet available. In addition to its own perfumery value on account of vetiver hydrocarbons compounds and carbonyl compounds, their alcohol derivatives i.e. vetiverols lend unique position to vetiver oil for perfumery applications as a valuable resource. Also, vetiverol could be acetylated with acetic anhydride to produce vetiveryl acetate.
 

Both vetiverols and acetates have softer odours and fixative qualities, and are used as blender with high-class perfumery products. They blend well with ionone, linalool, cinnamic alcohol, oakmoss, vanila, sandalwood, patchouli and rose bases, and are frequently used in western type of fragrances having chypre, fougere, rose, violet and amber aldehyde base, and oriental fragrances and floral compounds.

In addition to its direct perfumery applications, vetiver oil in its diluted form is extensively used in after-shave lotions, air freshners and bathing purposes, as well as flavoring syrups, ice cream, cosmetic and food preservation. Khus essence is used in cool drinks, and for reducing pungency of chewing tobacco preparations, providing sweet note to other masticatories and incense sticks.

 

OTHER USES

Vetiver oil is used in perfumery, cosmetics and soaps and for flavouring sherbets (Indian cool drinks).

Dried roots are also used to perfume the linen cloths.

The roots have been used for making screens, mats, hand fans and baskets. The screens are hung like curtains in the houses and when sprinkled water, impart a fragrant coolness to the air; they are in great demand during the summer.

For desert coolers in summer in North India.
Roots for preparing Sherbet or soft drink during summer, especially in North India.


Images of vetiver: wikipedia, treesftf

 


Author: Dr. Chandra Shekhar Gupta

Senior Research Fellow
Plant Quarantine Division
National Bearue of Plant Genetic Resources
Pusa Campus, New Delhi

 



 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Vetiver

1.5879936615832
Encre Noire Lalique
1.5074891067538
La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Vetiver Christian Dior
1.5042211328976
Malizia Uomo Vetyver Mirato
1.5016793754539
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.5014070442992
Vetiver Zara
1.5013162672476
Molecule 03 Escentric Molecules
1.5013162672476
Turtle Vetiver Back Les Nez
1.5012708787219
Royall Vetiver Royall Fragrances
1.5009985475672
Turtle Vetiver Les Nez
1.5008623819898
Intense Vetyver Zara
1.5008169934641
4711 Acqua Colonia Vetyver & Bergamot Maurer & Wirtz
1.5007716049383
The Maj House of Matriarch
1.5007716049383
Mon Numero 3 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.5006354393609
Vetiver Elizabeth W
1.5005446623094
Athunis Sigilli
1.5004992737836
Vetiver Santa Maria Novella
1.5004992737836
Black Vetiver Phaedon
1.500408496732
Baby Musk House of Matriarch
1.500408496732
Cologne Intense Borsalino
1.5003631082062
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.5003177196805
Supercilium O`Driu
1.5002723311547
Mix 18 Platinum J
1.5002723311547
Scent Essence - Romantic Bouquet Avon
1.5002269426289
Vetiver Jalaine
1.5002269426289
Zeste de Vétiver Durance en Provence
1.5001815541031
Nymph Nina`s Nature
1.5001815541031
Vetiver Moloko Ex Nihilo
1.5001361655773
Muschio di Quercia (Oak Moss) La Via del Profumo
1.5001361655773
Verde Citro Natura
1.5001361655773
Zara Sport 615 Zara
1.5000907770516
Conviction Elysees Fashion
1.5000907770516
Agua de Vetiver Angel Schlesser
1.5000907770516
Zara Black Tag Zara
1.5000453885258
Wood Nina`s Nature
1.5000453885258
Hurricane Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Love's Torments Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Yurei Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Spring Vetiver 40 Notes Perfume
1.5
Incantation Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Highwayman Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Vetiver Candora
1.5
Prurience Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4999546114742
Black Shot Pull and Bear
1.4999092229484
Aurora Terra Micaelangelo
1.4999092229484
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.4998184458969
Saturnalia Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4804538852578
Turtle Vetiver Front Les Nez
1.4756582411038
Woman Donna Karan
1.4674839934641
Cuba Grey Cuba Paris
1.4624003819898
Vetiver of Haiti The 7 Virtues
1.4620826623094
Hornero Fueguia 1833
1.4446255541031
Les Bohemes: Bootleg Opus Oils
1.4445801655773
179-001 Informal Scent Spectator
1.4423107131445
Magazine Street Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.4378240312273
Eau de Vetyver Givenchy
1.4360084901961
Onda Voile d`Extrait Vero Profumo
1.4336130421206
Terre d'Hermes Hermes
1.4321357196805
Vetiver Racinettes Ayala Moriel
1.4288433311547
Capim Cheiroso Companhia da Terra
1.4287071655773
Our Story For Him Avon
1.4287071655773
Madeiras Amazonia Viva
1.4286163885258
Very "V" Saint Charles Shave
1.428571
Black Romane
1.4285256114742
Julie Arno Sorel
1.417075496732
No. 06 Green Bergamot & Vetiver Rituals
1.4167577770516
Maharishi Rich Hippie
1.4156325475672
Iris & Lady Moore Jo Malone
1.4148170246914
Vetyver Jo Malone
1.4094271968046
onda Vero Profumo
1.4066794001452
Grey Vetiver Tom Ford
1.401452432825
Vetiver Bourbon Miller Harris
1.400408496732
Vetiver de Puig Antonio Puig
1.4003631082062
Blood Kiss Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4002723311547
Rendezvous Night Urban Retreat
1.4001815541031
Sweet Tyranny Smell Bent
1.4000453885258
El 8 de Gran Vía Loewe
1.3923951525054
Velvet Vetiver Dolce&Gabbana
1.3878686049383
Vetiver de la Reunion L`Erbolario
1.3852103333333
Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
1.385023496732
Lavande & Vetiver Jeanne en Provence
1.3798446267248
Vetiver Guerlain
1.3763616557734
The Natural Gap
1.3757262164125
1902 Vetiver Parfums Berdoues
1.3756354393609
Osmo Scents Vetiver de Java Il Profvmo
1.375408496732
Aromatic Blends: Vetiver & Black Tea Kiehl`s
1.3753631082062
Water Bath Priprioca Natura
1.3750907770516
Eau de Vetyver Le Jardin Retrouve
1.3744691372549
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Chanel
1.3709146623094
That 70`s Smell Botanical Perfume Esscentual Alchemy
1.3685571655773
Pink Vetiver Jo Loves
1.3628596361656
La Nuit de l`Homme Yves Saint Laurent
1.3575968852578
New Experience Man Tom Tailor
1.3563905279593
Woods Abercrombie & Fitch
1.3510267574437
Haitian Vetiver Ermenegildo Zegna
1.3504992737836
Vetivera Herbacea Parfums Berdoues
1.3504538852578
Ellie Ellie Perfume
1.3457811590414
No. 17 Vetiver & Bergamot Rituals
1.3455542164125
Cereus No.5 Cereus
1.3383711263617
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.335193929557
Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
1.3349361626725
Eau de Vétyver L`Occitane en Provence
1.3342102970225
Infusion de Vetiver Prada
1.3341046049383
That's Amore! Lui Gai Mattiolo
1.3336961082062
Entice Him Ajmal
1.3336053311547
Andy Roddick Parlux
1.3336053311547
Mix 11 Platinum J
1.3335599426289
Sunrise Urban Men Franck Olivier
1.3334691655773
Stra-Vivara Emilio Pucci
1.3333783885258
Tasman in Grey Code Deco
1.3333783885258
Ombre Fumee Evody Parfums
1.333333
Caspian Angela Flanders
1.333333
Trapeze Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3332422229484
Aurora Fuoco Micaelangelo
1.3326742345679
Les Parfums Mythiques - Vetiver Givenchy
1.3321259927378
Eau Sauvage Parfum Christian Dior
1.3255446623094
Sandalo del Kashmir & Vetiver Tesori d`Oriente
1.3247889644154
Vetiver Extraordinaire Frederic Malle
1.3235795475672
Silver Man Benetton
1.3224963689179
Fumidus Profumum Roma
1.3202723311547
Bon Zai Ayala Moriel
1.3201361655773
Loup des Steppes Sama
1.3183635541031
Divine: Eros Opus Oils
1.3170144901961
Vetiver Sport Guerlain
1.316868513435
Sel de Vetiver The Different Company
1.3160613311547
Masculin 2 Vetyver Bourjois
1.3159251655773
Derby Club House Belmont Armaf
1.3156349920116
Absinth Nasomatto
1.3138162672476
Cowboy Grass D.S. & Durga
1.3133623819898
Modoc Xerjoff
1.3129992737836
Aurum Natura
1.3126815541031
Tobacco Mucho Stephanie de Saint-Aignan
1.3108442737836
Tamboti Wood Susanne Lang
1.308735936093
Up To You for Him Avon
1.3081912737836
Darwin Fueguia 1833
1.3077827770516
Megumi Ayala Moriel
1.3064364444444
Comme Des Garcons Series 4 Cologne : Vettiveru Comme des Garcons
1.3056241837328
Vetiver Etro
1.3053465475672
Chakra 1 Motivation Aveda
1.3048472737836
Veti Vert Miller Harris
1.3043933885258
Cowgirl Grass D.S. & Durga
1.304348
Vanillaman Neil Morris
1.3041193246187
Cuba Green Cuba Paris
1.3035209869281
Time For Peace Kenzo
1.3021786492375
08 Seylon Odin
1.3015885984023
Aveda Men Pure-formance Aroma Spray Aveda
1.3013616557734
Hellstone Lush
1.3004992737836
Freedom Sport Tommy Hilfiger
1.3004538852578
Estivalia Antonio Puig
1.3003177196805
Wood Portland General Store
1.3001815541031
Old Bourbon West Third Brand

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