Vetiver

lat. Vetiveria Zizanoid
Other names: vetivert, khus

Group: Woods and Mosses

Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Odor profile: Essence from the Eastern Asian weed grass Vetiveria zizanoid that falls under the woods category thanks to its musty, dry, woody scent with bitter chocolate and smoke facets. Very popular in niche perfumery and masculine fragrances. The reference vetivers are Carven's, Givenchy's and Guerlain's classic renditions.

VETIVER – A COOL FRAGRANCE


The best features of vetiver, the aromatic verdancy, the fragrant rootiness, the subtle, refreshing citrusiness, the enjoyable earthiness, a wonderful hint of woodiness, and a certain Guerlainesque leathery-ambery darkness in the drydown. Vetiver oil is obtained by steam distillation of roots of vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides). The oil is one of the finest oriental perfumes with a persistent fragrance. In blended perfumes oil of vetiver acts as an excellent fixatives for volatile compounds. It is known for its cooling properties.

HABITAT

A commercially large population of Khas (Vetiver) grass grows in wet and damp environments over marshy places and riverbanks. The plant has a unique characteristic of being xerophyte (tolerates prolonged drought) but it survive under long seasonal flooding; it tolerates extreme temperature and grows over a wide range of soil pH. The grass grows luxuriantly in areas with an annual rainfall of 800 -2000 mm and temperature ranging from 22 to 400 C. Marshy riverbeds with sandy loam are best suited for this grass.

BOTANY
 

Common name: Vetiver
Botanical Name – Vetiveria zizanioides
Family: Gramineae / Poaceae

This family is known as the grass and the nutritious family. It is so named because the plant members are grasses and the plants are known for their ability to provide nutrients to the soil.

               Other common names

Akar Wangi - fragrant root - name used in Java, Khus Khus – aromatic root - name used in India, Oil of tranquility - name used in Sri Lanka.

Vetiver is a tall (1.5-2.0 m) perennial grass. It has a small stout rhizomatous stolen which gives rise to spongy, fibrous, dense roots system. Roots have aromatic properties and grow 20-30 cm deep in medium textured marginal soils under cultivation. Tremendous diversity exists with respect to pattern of growth, orientation and thickness of roots, as well as for occurrence of secondary roots. The bast region of root is the source of essential oil. The leaves are linear, narrow, erect, grassy, keeled with glabrous joint scabrid margins. Inflorescence is a panicle, up to 15-45 cm long, bearing numerous racemes in whorl on a central axis. The lower spikelets are reduced to lamena.

The upper spikelets are narrow, acute, appressed, awnless, green, grey or purplish in colour, 4-6 mm long, arranged in pairs. One floret in spike is sessile and bisexual; this bisexual floret has a glabrous callus, 3 stamens and 2 plumose stigmas. The other floret is pedicelled and staminate. Java vetiver is non flowering type has broader leaves (1.1 mm), medium thick stems, bushy growth bearing flowers with high pollen sterility; the plants give out more branching roots with higher oil content and the oil is dextro-rotatory in nature.
 

HISTORY and MYTH

Vetiver has a long and rich history. In India it has been used to make blinds necessary to keep out the intense heat. When the blinds are sprinkled with water they emit the vetiver scent. In Java the root has been used for centuries in weaving mats and thatching huts. The Vetiver root is used in folk magic for its purported ability to provide safety and increase financial resources. A ritual designed to promote personal safety calls for inhaling Vetiver while visualizing one’s body as being sealed off from negative energies.

COUNTRIES of ORIGIN


Vetiver is native to South India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. It is also cultivated in Reunion, the Philippines, the Comoro Islands, Japan, West Africa and South America. The oil is mainly produced in Java, Haiti and Reunion.

PERFUME IN ITS OWN RIGHT (COOLING PERFUME)

In World market the demand for vetiver oil is increasing day by day due to its unique odour, for which it is used in both flavour and fragrance industries. Moreover, this oil cannot be substituted with reconstituted oil and cannot be made through synthetically. Vetiver perfumes give pleasing aroma and has slow evaporation rate. Pure vetiver (Khus) root oil known in trade as “Ruh – Khus” and its use in scents since ancient time. Vetiver oil is the basis of the Indian perfume ‘Majmua’ and is the major ingredient in some 36% of all western perfumes (e.g. Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence, Parure, Opium ) and 20% of all men’s fragrances.

Its complex chemical composition and oil odour, high solubility in alcohol that improves its miscibility with other perfumery material, makes it a unique perfumery resource for which no synthetic substitute is yet available. In addition to its own perfumery value on account of vetiver hydrocarbons compounds and carbonyl compounds, their alcohol derivatives i.e. vetiverols lend unique position to vetiver oil for perfumery applications as a valuable resource. Also, vetiverol could be acetylated with acetic anhydride to produce vetiveryl acetate.
 

Both vetiverols and acetates have softer odours and fixative qualities, and are used as blender with high-class perfumery products. They blend well with ionone, linalool, cinnamic alcohol, oakmoss, vanila, sandalwood, patchouli and rose bases, and are frequently used in western type of fragrances having chypre, fougere, rose, violet and amber aldehyde base, and oriental fragrances and floral compounds.

In addition to its direct perfumery applications, vetiver oil in its diluted form is extensively used in after-shave lotions, air freshners and bathing purposes, as well as flavoring syrups, ice cream, cosmetic and food preservation. Khus essence is used in cool drinks, and for reducing pungency of chewing tobacco preparations, providing sweet note to other masticatories and incense sticks.

 

OTHER USES

Vetiver oil is used in perfumery, cosmetics and soaps and for flavouring sherbets (Indian cool drinks).

Dried roots are also used to perfume the linen cloths.

The roots have been used for making screens, mats, hand fans and baskets. The screens are hung like curtains in the houses and when sprinkled water, impart a fragrant coolness to the air; they are in great demand during the summer.

For desert coolers in summer in North India.
Roots for preparing Sherbet or soft drink during summer, especially in North India.


Images of vetiver: wikipedia, treesftf

 


Author: Dr. Chandra Shekhar Gupta

Senior Research Fellow
Plant Quarantine Division
National Bearue of Plant Genetic Resources
Pusa Campus, New Delhi

 



 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Vetiver

1.5805015626992
Encre Noire Lalique
1.5071590226779
La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Vetiver Christian Dior
1.5042492263637
Malizia Uomo Vetyver Mirato
1.5029559835573
Eau de Vetyver Givenchy
1.5016165535079
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.5014318045356
Vetiver Zara
1.5013856172925
Molecule 03 Escentric Molecules
1.5013394300494
Turtle Vetiver Back Les Nez
1.5012470555633
Royall Vetiver Royall Fragrances
1.5010161193478
Turtle Vetiver Les Nez
1.5008775576186
Intense Vetyver Zara
1.5008775576186
Vetiver of Haiti The 7 Virtues
1.5007851831324
The Maj House of Matriarch
1.5007389958893
4711 Acqua Colonia Vetyver & Bergamot Maurer & Wirtz
1.5007389958893
Mon Numero 3 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.500554246917
Athunis Sigilli
1.500554246917
Vetiver Elizabeth W
1.5005080596739
Black Vetiver Phaedon
1.5005080596739
Baby Musk House of Matriarch
1.5005080596739
Vetiver Santa Maria Novella
1.5003694979447
Cologne Intense Borsalino
1.5003233107016
Supercilium O`Driu
1.5002771234585
Mix 18 Platinum J
1.5002771234585
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.5002771234585
Capim Cheiroso Companhia da Terra
1.5002309362154
Vetiver Jalaine
1.5002309362154
Zeste de Vétiver Durance en Provence
1.5001847489723
Nymph Nina`s Nature
1.5001847489723
Scent Essence - Romantic Bouquet Avon
1.5001385617293
Verde Citro Natura
1.5001385617293
Agua de Vetiver Angel Schlesser
1.5001385617293
Zara Sport 615 Zara
1.5000923744862
Vetiver Moloko Ex Nihilo
1.5000923744862
Muschio di Quercia (Oak Moss) La Via del Profumo
1.5000923744862
Maharishi Rich Hippie
1.5000461872431
Hurricane Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000461872431
Wood Nina`s Nature
1.5
Vetiver Candora
1.5
Spring Vetiver 40 Notes Perfume
1.5
Yurei Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Love's Torments Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Incantation Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Prurience Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Zara Black Tag Zara
1.4999538127569
Black Shot Pull and Bear
1.4999076255138
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.4999076255138
Aurora Terra Micaelangelo
1.4998152510277
Saturnalia Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4837786255138
Highwayman Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4754156008498
Woman Donna Karan
1.4741920596739
Hornero Fueguia 1833
1.4674521831324
Cuba Grey Cuba Paris
1.4503233107016
Turtle Vetiver Front Les Nez
1.4445825617293
179-001 Informal Scent Spectator
1.4423306810771
Magazine Street Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.4359376810771
Onda Voile d`Extrait Vero Profumo
1.4324045411759
Vetyver Jo Malone
1.4298294232137
Terre d'Hermes Hermes
1.4287095617293
Madeiras Amazonia Viva
1.4287095617293
Our Story For Him Avon
1.4286171872431
Very "V" Saint Charles Shave
1.4286171872431
Millennium Hope Jivago
1.428571
Black Romane
1.4285248127569
Julie Arno Sorel
1.4189283107016
Vetiver Racinettes Ayala Moriel
1.4170826851878
No. 06 Green Bergamot & Vetiver Rituals
1.4168517489723
Les Bohemes: Bootleg Opus Oils
1.4156501193478
Iris & Lady Moore Jo Malone
1.4116834897233
Velvet Vetiver Dolce&Gabbana
1.4093907325297
onda Vero Profumo
1.4083015617293
Blood Kiss Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4074708769572
Grey Vetiver Tom Ford
1.4013856172925
Vetiver Bourbon Miller Harris
1.4004618724308
Vetiver de Puig Antonio Puig
1.4002771234585
Rendezvous Night Urban Retreat
1.4001847489723
Sweet Tyranny Smell Bent
1.4000461872431
El 8 de Gran Vía Loewe
1.3916734979447
Water Bath Priprioca Natura
1.3877898086463
Vetiver de la Reunion L`Erbolario
1.3853093333333
Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
1.3848921234585
Lavande & Vetiver Jeanne en Provence
1.3792903313935
Vetiver Guerlain
1.3763856172925
The Natural Gap
1.3757389958893
1902 Vetiver Parfums Berdoues
1.3755080596739
Aromatic Blends: Vetiver & Black Tea Kiehl`s
1.3750923744862
Raw Spirit Bijou Vert Nomad Two Worlds
1.3750923744862
Eau de Vetyver Le Jardin Retrouve
1.3727613150894
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Chanel
1.3712937448617
No. 17 Vetiver & Bergamot Rituals
1.3685595617293
Pink Vetiver Jo Loves
1.3604156851878
Osmo Scents Vetiver de Java Il Profvmo
1.3576048724308
New Experience Man Tom Tailor
1.3563588559882
Woods Abercrombie & Fitch
1.3554746867119
La Nuit de l`Homme Yves Saint Laurent
1.3507389958893
Mazzolari Mazzolari
1.3505080596739
Vetivera Herbacea Parfums Berdoues
1.3504618724308
Ellie Ellie Perfume
1.3498135493973
Haitian Vetiver Ermenegildo Zegna
1.3462441111265
Fumidus Profumum Roma
1.3455669958893
Cereus No.5 Cereus
1.3412250350099
Vetiver Etro
1.3383674094961
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.3356789074408
Les Parfums Mythiques - Vetiver Givenchy
1.3352728642095
Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
1.3342276235278
Infusion de Vetiver Prada
1.3341181831324
That's Amore! Lui Gai Mattiolo
1.334081172925
Eau de Vétyver L`Occitane en Provence
1.333887246917
That 70`s Smell Botanical Perfume Esscentual Alchemy
1.3337024979447
Entice Him Ajmal
1.3336101234585
Mix 11 Platinum J
1.3336101234585
Brass and Bulldog Botanical Cologne Esscentual Alchemy
1.3335177489723
Andy Roddick Parlux
1.3335177489723
Sunrise Urban Men Franck Olivier
1.3334715617293
Stra-Vivara Emilio Pucci
1.3333791872431
Ombre Fumee Evody Parfums
1.3333791872431
Tasman in Grey Code Deco
1.333333
Caspian Angela Flanders
1.333333
Trapeze Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3332406255138
Aurora Fuoco Micaelangelo
1.3292888150201
Eau Sauvage Parfum Christian Dior
1.325554246917
Sandalo del Kashmir & Vetiver Tesori d`Oriente
1.3234585576186
Silver Man Benetton
1.3202771234585
Bon Zai Ayala Moriel
1.3202440248025
Vetiver Extraordinaire Frederic Malle
1.3183667489723
Divine: Eros Opus Oils
1.3170360555633
Vetiver Sport Guerlain
1.3160661234585
Masculin 2 Vetyver Bourjois
1.3159275617293
Derby Club House Belmont Armaf
1.3145709939033
Sel de Vetiver The Different Company
1.3138394300494
Cowboy Grass D.S. & Durga
1.3134699321048
Modoc Xerjoff
1.3130080596739
Aurum Natura
1.3126847489723
Tobacco Mucho Stephanie de Saint-Aignan
1.3108068724308
Tamboti Wood Susanne Lang
1.3087543065909
Up To You for Him Avon
1.3082000596739
Darwin Fueguia 1833
1.3065124609487
Comme Des Garcons Series 4 Cologne : Vettiveru Comme des Garcons
1.306146456838
Absinth Nasomatto
1.3054103065909
Chakra 1 Motivation Aveda
1.3047636851878
Veti Vert Miller Harris
1.3043941872431
Cowgirl Grass D.S. & Durga
1.304348
Vanillaman Neil Morris
1.3040923065909
Cuba Green Cuba Paris
1.303549740751
Time For Peace Kenzo
1.3004618724308
Freedom Sport Tommy Hilfiger
1.3003694979447
Estivalia Antonio Puig
1.3002771234585
Wood Portland General Store
1.300177322156
Narciso Rodriguez For Her Narciso Rodriguez
1.3001385617293
Old Bourbon West Third Brand
1.3000461872431
Oxbow for Men Oxbow

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