Vetiver

lat. Vetiveria Zizanoid
Other names: vetivert, khus

Group: Woods and Mosses

Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Odor profile: Essence from the Eastern Asian weed grass Vetiveria zizanoid that falls under the woods category thanks to its musty, dry, woody scent with bitter chocolate and smoke facets. Very popular in niche perfumery and masculine fragrances. The reference vetivers are Carven's, Givenchy's and Guerlain's classic renditions.

VETIVER – A COOL FRAGRANCE


The best features of vetiver, the aromatic verdancy, the fragrant rootiness, the subtle, refreshing citrusiness, the enjoyable earthiness, a wonderful hint of woodiness, and a certain Guerlainesque leathery-ambery darkness in the drydown. Vetiver oil is obtained by steam distillation of roots of vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides). The oil is one of the finest oriental perfumes with a persistent fragrance. In blended perfumes oil of vetiver acts as an excellent fixatives for volatile compounds. It is known for its cooling properties.

HABITAT

A commercially large population of Khas (Vetiver) grass grows in wet and damp environments over marshy places and riverbanks. The plant has a unique characteristic of being xerophyte (tolerates prolonged drought) but it survive under long seasonal flooding; it tolerates extreme temperature and grows over a wide range of soil pH. The grass grows luxuriantly in areas with an annual rainfall of 800 -2000 mm and temperature ranging from 22 to 400 C. Marshy riverbeds with sandy loam are best suited for this grass.

BOTANY
 

Common name: Vetiver
Botanical Name – Vetiveria zizanioides
Family: Gramineae / Poaceae

This family is known as the grass and the nutritious family. It is so named because the plant members are grasses and the plants are known for their ability to provide nutrients to the soil.

               Other common names

Akar Wangi - fragrant root - name used in Java, Khus Khus – aromatic root - name used in India, Oil of tranquility - name used in Sri Lanka.

Vetiver is a tall (1.5-2.0 m) perennial grass. It has a small stout rhizomatous stolen which gives rise to spongy, fibrous, dense roots system. Roots have aromatic properties and grow 20-30 cm deep in medium textured marginal soils under cultivation. Tremendous diversity exists with respect to pattern of growth, orientation and thickness of roots, as well as for occurrence of secondary roots. The bast region of root is the source of essential oil. The leaves are linear, narrow, erect, grassy, keeled with glabrous joint scabrid margins. Inflorescence is a panicle, up to 15-45 cm long, bearing numerous racemes in whorl on a central axis. The lower spikelets are reduced to lamena.

The upper spikelets are narrow, acute, appressed, awnless, green, grey or purplish in colour, 4-6 mm long, arranged in pairs. One floret in spike is sessile and bisexual; this bisexual floret has a glabrous callus, 3 stamens and 2 plumose stigmas. The other floret is pedicelled and staminate. Java vetiver is non flowering type has broader leaves (1.1 mm), medium thick stems, bushy growth bearing flowers with high pollen sterility; the plants give out more branching roots with higher oil content and the oil is dextro-rotatory in nature.
 

HISTORY and MYTH

Vetiver has a long and rich history. In India it has been used to make blinds necessary to keep out the intense heat. When the blinds are sprinkled with water they emit the vetiver scent. In Java the root has been used for centuries in weaving mats and thatching huts. The Vetiver root is used in folk magic for its purported ability to provide safety and increase financial resources. A ritual designed to promote personal safety calls for inhaling Vetiver while visualizing one’s body as being sealed off from negative energies.

COUNTRIES of ORIGIN


Vetiver is native to South India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. It is also cultivated in Reunion, the Philippines, the Comoro Islands, Japan, West Africa and South America. The oil is mainly produced in Java, Haiti and Reunion.

PERFUME IN ITS OWN RIGHT (COOLING PERFUME)

In World market the demand for vetiver oil is increasing day by day due to its unique odour, for which it is used in both flavour and fragrance industries. Moreover, this oil cannot be substituted with reconstituted oil and cannot be made through synthetically. Vetiver perfumes give pleasing aroma and has slow evaporation rate. Pure vetiver (Khus) root oil known in trade as “Ruh – Khus” and its use in scents since ancient time. Vetiver oil is the basis of the Indian perfume ‘Majmua’ and is the major ingredient in some 36% of all western perfumes (e.g. Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence, Parure, Opium ) and 20% of all men’s fragrances.

Its complex chemical composition and oil odour, high solubility in alcohol that improves its miscibility with other perfumery material, makes it a unique perfumery resource for which no synthetic substitute is yet available. In addition to its own perfumery value on account of vetiver hydrocarbons compounds and carbonyl compounds, their alcohol derivatives i.e. vetiverols lend unique position to vetiver oil for perfumery applications as a valuable resource. Also, vetiverol could be acetylated with acetic anhydride to produce vetiveryl acetate.
 

Both vetiverols and acetates have softer odours and fixative qualities, and are used as blender with high-class perfumery products. They blend well with ionone, linalool, cinnamic alcohol, oakmoss, vanila, sandalwood, patchouli and rose bases, and are frequently used in western type of fragrances having chypre, fougere, rose, violet and amber aldehyde base, and oriental fragrances and floral compounds.

In addition to its direct perfumery applications, vetiver oil in its diluted form is extensively used in after-shave lotions, air freshners and bathing purposes, as well as flavoring syrups, ice cream, cosmetic and food preservation. Khus essence is used in cool drinks, and for reducing pungency of chewing tobacco preparations, providing sweet note to other masticatories and incense sticks.

 

OTHER USES

Vetiver oil is used in perfumery, cosmetics and soaps and for flavouring sherbets (Indian cool drinks).

Dried roots are also used to perfume the linen cloths.

The roots have been used for making screens, mats, hand fans and baskets. The screens are hung like curtains in the houses and when sprinkled water, impart a fragrant coolness to the air; they are in great demand during the summer.

For desert coolers in summer in North India.
Roots for preparing Sherbet or soft drink during summer, especially in North India.


Images of vetiver: wikipedia, treesftf

 


Author: Dr. Chandra Shekhar Gupta

Senior Research Fellow
Plant Quarantine Division
National Bearue of Plant Genetic Resources
Pusa Campus, New Delhi

 



 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Vetiver

1.5810868201107
Encre Noire Lalique
1.5057865082991
La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Vetiver Dior
1.5038576721994
Malizia Uomo Vetyver Mirato
1.5026902187706
Eau de Vetyver Givenchy
1.5018273184102
Molecule 03 Escentric Molecules
1.5013704888077
Vetiver Zara
1.5011674534288
Turtle Vetiver Les Nez
1.5010151768946
Turtle Vetiver Back Les Nez
1.5010151768946
Royall Vetiver Royall Fragrances
1.5009644180498
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.5008629003604
Shooting Stars Collection: Modoc Xerjoff
1.5007613826709
Mon Numero 3 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.5007106238262
Vetiver Elizabeth W
1.5005075884473
Athunis Sigilli
1.5005075884473
Vetiver of Haiti The 7 Virtues
1.5005075884473
4711 Acqua Colonia Vetyver & Bergamot Maurer & Wirtz
1.5004568296026
Marbert Homme Marbert
1.5004568296026
Vetiver Santa Maria Novella
1.5003553119131
Black Vetiver Phaedon
1.5003553119131
Supercilium O`Driu
1.5003553119131
Cologne Intense Borsalino
1.5003553119131
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.5003045530684
Mix 18 Platinum J
1.5002537942236
Vetiver Jalaine
1.5002537942236
Mix 11 Platinum J
1.5001522765342
Zara Sport 615 Zara
1.5001015176895
Nymph Nina`s Nature
1.5001015176895
Muschio di Quercia (Oak Moss) La Via del Profumo
1.5001015176895
Maharishi Rich Hippie
1.5000507588447
Incantation Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000507588447
Hurricane Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000507588447
Prurience Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000507588447
Wood Nina`s Nature
1.5
Love's Torments Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Agua de Vetiver Angel Schlesser
1.5
Yurei Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4999492411553
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.4998984823105
Aurora Terra Micaelangelo
1.4998984823105
Highwayman Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4997969646211
Saturnalia Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4697651768946
Haitian Vetiver Ermenegildo Zegna
1.4674283826709
Cuba Grey Cuba Paris
1.4618933119131
Hornero Fueguia 1833
1.4533452606467
Woman Donna Karan
1.4527869133547
Vetyver Jo Malone
1.4517652765342
Blood Kiss Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4462205595655
Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
1.4374705241866
Velvet Vetiver Dolce&Gabbana
1.4299922476524
Vetiver Bourbon Miller Harris
1.428571
Black Romane
1.4189603119131
Vetiver Racinettes Ayala Moriel
1.4170223119131
No. 06 Green Bergamot & Vetiver Rituals
1.4167685176895
Seplasia Bruno Acampora
1.4156491768946
Iris & Lady Moore Jo Malone
1.4132984727679
Terre d'Hermes Hermes
1.4100532663824
Grey Vetiver Tom Ford
1.4014212476524
Déclaration Edition Limitée Cartier
1.4004568296026
Baby Musk House of Matriarch
1.4003045530684
Rendezvous Night Urban Retreat
1.4003045530684
Vetiver de Puig Antonio Puig
1.4
Sweet Tyranny Smell Bent
1.3919638649815
Vetiver de la Reunion L`Erbolario
1.3884674888077
Magazine Street Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3869423333333
Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
1.3841297992488
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Chanel
1.3762689711182
The Natural Gap
1.3757106238262
1902 Vetiver Parfums Berdoues
1.3752537942236
Lavande & Vetiver Jeanne en Provence
1.3751015176895
Eau de Vetyver Le Jardin Retrouve
1.3741931552205
Vetiver Guerlain
1.3697125306837
Vetiver Creed
1.3640928296026
Osmo Scents Vetiver de Java Il Profvmo
1.3640685371809
Vetiver Etro
1.3573460353789
Entice Him Ajmal
1.3572125306837
onda Vero Profumo
1.3560372895285
Woods Abercrombie & Fitch
1.3533978296026
Freedom Sport Tommy Hilfiger
1.3533470707578
Darwin Fueguia 1833
1.3508121415157
Mazzolari Mazzolari
1.3505075884473
Ellie Ellie Perfume
1.3504568296026
Vetivera Herbacea Parfums Berdoues
1.3465093119131
Sandalo del Kashmir & Vetiver Tesori d`Oriente
1.344587380336
La Nuit de l`Homme Yves Saint Laurent
1.3414919357393
Vetiver Des Sables Montale
1.3342974180498
Windsor Eau de Toilette D.R.Harris
1.3342931256281
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.3341451415157
Cereus No.5 Cereus
1.3339928649815
That's Amore! Lui Gai Mattiolo
1.3336375530684
Onda Voile d`Extrait Vero Profumo
1.3335867942236
Brass and Bulldog Botanical Cologne Esscentual Alchemy
1.3335360353789
Precious One Angela Flanders
1.3335360353789
Sunrise Urban Men Franck Olivier
1.3335360353789
Turtle Vetiver Front Les Nez
1.3334852765342
Andy Roddick Parlux
1.3334852765342
Stra-Vivara Emilio Pucci
1.3334345176895
No Sport La Parfumerie Moderne
1.3334345176895
Pink Vetiver Jo Loves
1.333333
Trapeze Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.333333
Rose Poudre Bottega Profumiera
1.333333
Nimitz Paris Bleu
1.3332314823105
Aurora Fuoco Micaelangelo
1.3332089812192
Sel de Vetiver The Different Company
1.3314152873458
Eau Sauvage Parfum Dior
1.3258505595655
08 Seylon Odin
1.3238613184102
Vetyver Lanvin
1.3229636404243
Infusion de Vetiver Prada
1.3221426404243
Eau de Vétyver L`Occitane en Provence
1.321116694584
Aquae Nobilis Profumum Roma
1.3203045530684
Bon Zai Ayala Moriel
1.3197844021623
Les Parfums Mythiques - Vetiver Givenchy
1.3191971768946
Vince Camuto Femme Vince Camuto
1.3190449003604
Hellstone Lush
1.3183850353789
Divine: Eros Opus Oils
1.3177041833917
Fumidus Profumum Roma
1.3170072122735
Vetiver Sport Guerlain
1.3153519357393
Gentile Maria Candida Gentile
1.313616694584
Cowboy Grass DS & Durga
1.3130075884473
No. 17 Vetiver & Bergamot Rituals
1.312662248363
Vetiver Extraordinaire Frederic Malle
1.3118095501751
Absinth Nasomatto
1.310903347292
Tamboti Wood Susanne Lang
1.3088594534288
Up To You for Him Avon
1.3081995884473
Bois Bleu Robert Piguet
1.3077935176895
Assam Oudh Crabtree & Evelyn
1.304348
Cowgirl Grass DS & Durga
1.3036635595655
Time For Peace Kenzo
1.3030873826709
Eva Santa Maria Novella
1.3004568296026
Estivalia Antonio Puig
1.3002537942236
Me Myself & I Ego Facto
1.3002030353789
True American Eagle
1.3001015176895
Wood Portland General Store
1.3000728072179
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorella Dior
1.3000507588447
Oxbow for Men Oxbow
1.3
Nononsense 1 Nico Uytterhaegen
1.2988364180498
Un Bois Sepia Serge Lutens
1.2983629357393
Notte Bianca Linari
1.2981674554591
Narciso Rodriguez For Her Narciso Rodriguez
1.2976015530684
Indian Vetiver Bath and Body Works
1.2973985176895
Megumi Ayala Moriel
1.2972977653419
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.2972096592051
Silver Man Benetton
1.2947271061367
Vetyver Parfums de Nicolaï
1.2926451545099
Kenzo Air Intense Kenzo
1.2926314180498
Cuba Green Cuba Paris
1.2866276592051
BOSS The Collection Cotton & Verbena Hugo Boss
1.2861708296026
New Experience Man Tom Tailor
1.2861708296026
Racing Ferrari
1.2861708296026
That 70`s Smell Botanical Perfume Esscentual Alchemy
1.2861200707578
B-Cool Police
1.2861200707578
Eau Fraîche Molinard

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