Vetiver

lat. Vetiveria Zizanoid
Other names: vetivert, khus

Group: Woods and Mosses

Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Odor profile: Essence from the Eastern Asian weed grass Vetiveria zizanoid that falls under the woods category thanks to its musty, dry, woody scent with bitter chocolate and smoke facets. Very popular in niche perfumery and masculine fragrances. The reference vetivers are Carven's, Givenchy's and Guerlain's classic renditions.

VETIVER – A COOL FRAGRANCE


The best features of vetiver, the aromatic verdancy, the fragrant rootiness, the subtle, refreshing citrusiness, the enjoyable earthiness, a wonderful hint of woodiness, and a certain Guerlainesque leathery-ambery darkness in the drydown. Vetiver oil is obtained by steam distillation of roots of vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides). The oil is one of the finest oriental perfumes with a persistent fragrance. In blended perfumes oil of vetiver acts as an excellent fixatives for volatile compounds. It is known for its cooling properties.

HABITAT

A commercially large population of Khas (Vetiver) grass grows in wet and damp environments over marshy places and riverbanks. The plant has a unique characteristic of being xerophyte (tolerates prolonged drought) but it survive under long seasonal flooding; it tolerates extreme temperature and grows over a wide range of soil pH. The grass grows luxuriantly in areas with an annual rainfall of 800 -2000 mm and temperature ranging from 22 to 400 C. Marshy riverbeds with sandy loam are best suited for this grass.

BOTANY
 

Common name: Vetiver
Botanical Name – Vetiveria zizanioides
Family: Gramineae / Poaceae

This family is known as the grass and the nutritious family. It is so named because the plant members are grasses and the plants are known for their ability to provide nutrients to the soil.

               Other common names

Akar Wangi - fragrant root - name used in Java, Khus Khus – aromatic root - name used in India, Oil of tranquility - name used in Sri Lanka.

Vetiver is a tall (1.5-2.0 m) perennial grass. It has a small stout rhizomatous stolen which gives rise to spongy, fibrous, dense roots system. Roots have aromatic properties and grow 20-30 cm deep in medium textured marginal soils under cultivation. Tremendous diversity exists with respect to pattern of growth, orientation and thickness of roots, as well as for occurrence of secondary roots. The bast region of root is the source of essential oil. The leaves are linear, narrow, erect, grassy, keeled with glabrous joint scabrid margins. Inflorescence is a panicle, up to 15-45 cm long, bearing numerous racemes in whorl on a central axis. The lower spikelets are reduced to lamena.

The upper spikelets are narrow, acute, appressed, awnless, green, grey or purplish in colour, 4-6 mm long, arranged in pairs. One floret in spike is sessile and bisexual; this bisexual floret has a glabrous callus, 3 stamens and 2 plumose stigmas. The other floret is pedicelled and staminate. Java vetiver is non flowering type has broader leaves (1.1 mm), medium thick stems, bushy growth bearing flowers with high pollen sterility; the plants give out more branching roots with higher oil content and the oil is dextro-rotatory in nature.
 

HISTORY and MYTH

Vetiver has a long and rich history. In India it has been used to make blinds necessary to keep out the intense heat. When the blinds are sprinkled with water they emit the vetiver scent. In Java the root has been used for centuries in weaving mats and thatching huts. The Vetiver root is used in folk magic for its purported ability to provide safety and increase financial resources. A ritual designed to promote personal safety calls for inhaling Vetiver while visualizing one’s body as being sealed off from negative energies.

COUNTRIES of ORIGIN


Vetiver is native to South India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. It is also cultivated in Reunion, the Philippines, the Comoro Islands, Japan, West Africa and South America. The oil is mainly produced in Java, Haiti and Reunion.

PERFUME IN ITS OWN RIGHT (COOLING PERFUME)

In World market the demand for vetiver oil is increasing day by day due to its unique odour, for which it is used in both flavour and fragrance industries. Moreover, this oil cannot be substituted with reconstituted oil and cannot be made through synthetically. Vetiver perfumes give pleasing aroma and has slow evaporation rate. Pure vetiver (Khus) root oil known in trade as “Ruh – Khus” and its use in scents since ancient time. Vetiver oil is the basis of the Indian perfume ‘Majmua’ and is the major ingredient in some 36% of all western perfumes (e.g. Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence, Parure, Opium ) and 20% of all men’s fragrances.

Its complex chemical composition and oil odour, high solubility in alcohol that improves its miscibility with other perfumery material, makes it a unique perfumery resource for which no synthetic substitute is yet available. In addition to its own perfumery value on account of vetiver hydrocarbons compounds and carbonyl compounds, their alcohol derivatives i.e. vetiverols lend unique position to vetiver oil for perfumery applications as a valuable resource. Also, vetiverol could be acetylated with acetic anhydride to produce vetiveryl acetate.
 

Both vetiverols and acetates have softer odours and fixative qualities, and are used as blender with high-class perfumery products. They blend well with ionone, linalool, cinnamic alcohol, oakmoss, vanila, sandalwood, patchouli and rose bases, and are frequently used in western type of fragrances having chypre, fougere, rose, violet and amber aldehyde base, and oriental fragrances and floral compounds.

In addition to its direct perfumery applications, vetiver oil in its diluted form is extensively used in after-shave lotions, air freshners and bathing purposes, as well as flavoring syrups, ice cream, cosmetic and food preservation. Khus essence is used in cool drinks, and for reducing pungency of chewing tobacco preparations, providing sweet note to other masticatories and incense sticks.

 

OTHER USES

Vetiver oil is used in perfumery, cosmetics and soaps and for flavouring sherbets (Indian cool drinks).

Dried roots are also used to perfume the linen cloths.

The roots have been used for making screens, mats, hand fans and baskets. The screens are hung like curtains in the houses and when sprinkled water, impart a fragrant coolness to the air; they are in great demand during the summer.

For desert coolers in summer in North India.
Roots for preparing Sherbet or soft drink during summer, especially in North India.


Images of vetiver: wikipedia, treesftf

 


Author: Dr. Chandra Shekhar Gupta

Senior Research Fellow
Plant Quarantine Division
National Bearue of Plant Genetic Resources
Pusa Campus, New Delhi

 



 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Vetiver

1.5933698797251
Encre Noire Lalique
1.5086971278266
La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Vetiver Christian Dior
1.5043273514064
Malizia Uomo Vetyver Mirato
1.5017818505791
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.5014424504688
Molecule 03 Escentric Molecules
1.5013151754274
Turtle Vetiver Back Les Nez
1.5013151754274
Vetiver Zara
1.5011879003861
Royall Vetiver Royall Fragrances
1.5010182003309
Turtle Vetiver Les Nez
1.5008485002758
Mon Numero 3 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.5008485002758
4711 Acqua Colonia Vetyver & Bergamot Maurer & Wirtz
1.500806075262
Intense Vetyver Zara
1.500593950193
Vetiver Elizabeth W
1.5005515251792
Black Vetiver Phaedon
1.5005515251792
Vetiver Santa Maria Novella
1.5005091001655
Baby Musk House of Matriarch
1.5004666751517
Divine Attraction Initio Parfums Prives
1.5004666751517
Supercilium O`Driu
1.5004666751517
Zeste de Vétiver Durance en Provence
1.5004242501379
Cologne Intense Borsalino
1.5002969750965
Mix 18 Platinum J
1.5002969750965
Sheikh Al Shuyukh Lattafa Perfumes
1.5002969750965
Capim Cheiroso Companhia da Terra
1.5002545500827
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.5002545500827
Our Story For Him Avon
1.5001697000552
El 8 de Gran Vía Loewe
1.5001697000552
Nymph Nina`s Nature
1.5001272750414
Zara Sport 615 Zara
1.5001272750414
Conviction Elysees Fashion
1.5001272750414
Verde Citro Natura
1.5000848500276
Hurricane Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000424250138
A Day in Grasse Arts&Scents
1.5000424250138
Wood Nina`s Nature
1.5000424250138
Swiss Army Unlimited Snowpower Victorinox Swiss Army
1.5
Vetiver Candora
1.5
Yurei Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Black Shot Pull and Bear
1.5
Love's Torments Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Incantation Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Spring Vetiver 40 Notes Perfume
1.5
Vetiver Proximity Axe
1.5
Prurience Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4999151499724
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.4999151499724
Vitrum Sammarco
1.4999151499724
Aurora Terra Micaelangelo
1.4999151499724
Highwayman Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4998302999448
Saturnalia Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4969843015994
Woman Donna Karan
1.4622168002206
Athunis Sigilli
1.4619622501379
Turtle Vetiver Front Les Nez
1.457736950193
Hornero Fueguia 1833
1.4525039252896
Vetiver of Haiti The 7 Virtues
1.4445712750414
Les Bohemes: Bootleg Opus Oils
1.4442144280684
Terre d'Hermes Hermes
1.4422366253447
Magazine Street Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.4402545500827
Sultan Vetiver Nishane
1.4321149750965
Vetiver Racinettes Ayala Moriel
1.4317953010479
Eau de Vetyver Givenchy
1.4287831250689
Madeiras Amazonia Viva
1.4286134250138
Very "V" Saint Charles Shave
1.428571
Black Romane
1.4285285749862
Julie Arno Sorel
1.4232042750414
Vetiver Jalaine
1.4209247255102
Vetiver Bourbon Miller Harris
1.4170488251241
No. 06 Green Bergamot & Vetiver Rituals
1.4167518500276
Maharishi Rich Hippie
1.4133347255102
Cowboy Grass D.S. & Durga
1.4061227249586
The Botanist MiN New York
1.4032243010479
onda Vero Profumo
1.400593950193
Vetiver de Puig Antonio Puig
1.4003818251241
Lavande & Vetiver Jeanne en Provence
1.4002545500827
Rendezvous Night Urban Retreat
1.3986401012685
Vetyver Jo Malone
1.396218199143
Grey Vetiver Tom Ford
1.3925767504136
The Natural Gap
1.3897375002758
Cuba Grey Cuba Paris
1.387903075262
Vetiver de la Reunion L`Erbolario
1.3878776757032
Eau de Cartier Vetiver Bleu Cartier
1.3862843333333
Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
1.385208950193
Darwin Fueguia 1833
1.3846574250138
Aube Drift Parfum de Terre
1.3824793004964
Onda Voile d`Extrait Vero Profumo
1.3821886059565
Vetiver Guerlain
1.3757636502482
1902 Vetiver Parfums Berdoues
1.3756363752068
Osmo Scents Vetiver de Java Il Profvmo
1.3753394001103
Vetiver Castle Forbes
1.3752545500827
Muschio di Quercia (Oak Moss) La Via del Profumo
1.3750848500276
Eau de Vetyver Le Jardin Retrouve
1.3749575749862
Bayrhum Vetiver Creed
1.3729764125408
La Nuit de l`Homme Yves Saint Laurent
1.3718145506343
Velvet Vetiver Dolce&Gabbana
1.3707942501379
That 70`s Smell Botanical Perfume Esscentual Alchemy
1.3704062406771
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Chanel
1.3692940260065
Haitian Vetiver Ermenegildo Zegna
1.3689301001655
Drone Ephemera by Unsound
1.3686331250689
Pink Vetiver Jo Loves
1.3646966253447
Iris & Lady Moore Jo Malone
1.3637632750414
Essence No. 6 Vetiver Elie Saab
1.3574399750965
New Experience Man Tom Tailor
1.3572954255653
Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
1.3563774261168
Woods Abercrombie & Fitch
1.3506788002206
Vetivera Herbacea Parfums Berdoues
1.3504491505239
Aveda Men Pure-formance Aroma Spray Aveda
1.3504242501379
Ellie Ellie Perfume
1.3458462003309
No. 17 Vetiver & Bergamot Rituals
1.3425839800602
Eau de Vétyver L`Occitane en Provence
1.3424019750965
01 06 Lime Absolue Fragrance Republic
1.3353944537779
Infusion de Vetiver Prada
1.334733025455
Aquae Nobilis Profumum Roma
1.3345910386916
Eau Sauvage Parfum Christian Dior
1.3342239252896
That's Amore! Lui Gai Mattiolo
1.333926950193
Sandalo del Kashmir & Vetiver Tesori d`Oriente
1.3337996751517
Ombre Fumee Evody Parfums
1.3337148251241
Mix 11 Platinum J
1.3335875500827
Sunrise Urban Men Franck Olivier
1.3335875500827
Andy Roddick Parlux
1.3335875500827
Loup des Steppes Sama
1.3335451250689
Cuir Sacré Atelier des Ors
1.33350905091
Fumidus Profumum Roma
1.3334602750414
Stra-Vivara Emilio Pucci
1.3333754250138
Bal de Bain Regency Cosmetics
1.333333
Double Fraicheur Molinard
1.333333
Caspian Angela Flanders
1.333333
Tasman in Grey Code Deco
1.333333
Trapeze Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3330456757032
08 Seylon Odin
1.3303436768062
Les Parfums Mythiques - Vetiver Givenchy
1.3286306004412
Vetiver Veritas James Heeley
1.3249603752068
Fig & Vetiver Anthousa
1.3236416253447
Silver Man Benetton
1.3234650525646
Comme Des Garcons Series 4 Cologne : Vettiveru Comme des Garcons
1.3221078002206
Aromatic Blends: Vetiver & Black Tea Kiehl`s
1.3211368251241
Entice Him Ajmal
1.3206294277714
Absinth Nasomatto
1.3202545500827
Bon Zai Ayala Moriel
1.3185638251241
Precious One Angela Flanders
1.3183517000552
Divine: Eros Opus Oils
1.3170617504136
Vetiver Sport Guerlain
1.3166374814391
Vetiver Extraordinaire Frederic Malle
1.3160435500827
Masculin 2 Vetyver Bourjois
1.3136887266132
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.3130091001655
Castaña Cloon Keen Atelier
1.3129560249035
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3129242501379
Aurum Natura
1.3126697000552
Tobacco Mucho Stephanie de Saint-Aignan
1.3124436015443
Vetiver Etro
1.3107692501379
Tamboti Wood Susanne Lang
1.3099341040261
Sel de Vetiver The Different Company
1.3086677753171
Up To You for Him Avon
1.3077768500276
Megumi Ayala Moriel

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