Vetiver

lat. Vetiveria Zizanoid
Other names: vetivert, khus

Group: Woods and Mosses

Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Odor profile: Essence from the Eastern Asian weed grass Vetiveria zizanoid that falls under the woods category thanks to its musty, dry, woody scent with bitter chocolate and smoke facets. Very popular in niche perfumery and masculine fragrances. The reference vetivers are Carven's, Givenchy's and Guerlain's classic renditions.

VETIVER – A COOL FRAGRANCE


The best features of vetiver, the aromatic verdancy, the fragrant rootiness, the subtle, refreshing citrusiness, the enjoyable earthiness, a wonderful hint of woodiness, and a certain Guerlainesque leathery-ambery darkness in the drydown. Vetiver oil is obtained by steam distillation of roots of vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides). The oil is one of the finest oriental perfumes with a persistent fragrance. In blended perfumes oil of vetiver acts as an excellent fixatives for volatile compounds. It is known for its cooling properties.

HABITAT

A commercially large population of Khas (Vetiver) grass grows in wet and damp environments over marshy places and riverbanks. The plant has a unique characteristic of being xerophyte (tolerates prolonged drought) but it survive under long seasonal flooding; it tolerates extreme temperature and grows over a wide range of soil pH. The grass grows luxuriantly in areas with an annual rainfall of 800 -2000 mm and temperature ranging from 22 to 400 C. Marshy riverbeds with sandy loam are best suited for this grass.

BOTANY
 

Common name: Vetiver
Botanical Name – Vetiveria zizanioides
Family: Gramineae / Poaceae

This family is known as the grass and the nutritious family. It is so named because the plant members are grasses and the plants are known for their ability to provide nutrients to the soil.

               Other common names

Akar Wangi - fragrant root - name used in Java, Khus Khus – aromatic root - name used in India, Oil of tranquility - name used in Sri Lanka.

Vetiver is a tall (1.5-2.0 m) perennial grass. It has a small stout rhizomatous stolen which gives rise to spongy, fibrous, dense roots system. Roots have aromatic properties and grow 20-30 cm deep in medium textured marginal soils under cultivation. Tremendous diversity exists with respect to pattern of growth, orientation and thickness of roots, as well as for occurrence of secondary roots. The bast region of root is the source of essential oil. The leaves are linear, narrow, erect, grassy, keeled with glabrous joint scabrid margins. Inflorescence is a panicle, up to 15-45 cm long, bearing numerous racemes in whorl on a central axis. The lower spikelets are reduced to lamena.

The upper spikelets are narrow, acute, appressed, awnless, green, grey or purplish in colour, 4-6 mm long, arranged in pairs. One floret in spike is sessile and bisexual; this bisexual floret has a glabrous callus, 3 stamens and 2 plumose stigmas. The other floret is pedicelled and staminate. Java vetiver is non flowering type has broader leaves (1.1 mm), medium thick stems, bushy growth bearing flowers with high pollen sterility; the plants give out more branching roots with higher oil content and the oil is dextro-rotatory in nature.
 

HISTORY and MYTH

Vetiver has a long and rich history. In India it has been used to make blinds necessary to keep out the intense heat. When the blinds are sprinkled with water they emit the vetiver scent. In Java the root has been used for centuries in weaving mats and thatching huts. The Vetiver root is used in folk magic for its purported ability to provide safety and increase financial resources. A ritual designed to promote personal safety calls for inhaling Vetiver while visualizing one’s body as being sealed off from negative energies.

COUNTRIES of ORIGIN


Vetiver is native to South India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. It is also cultivated in Reunion, the Philippines, the Comoro Islands, Japan, West Africa and South America. The oil is mainly produced in Java, Haiti and Reunion.

PERFUME IN ITS OWN RIGHT (COOLING PERFUME)

In World market the demand for vetiver oil is increasing day by day due to its unique odour, for which it is used in both flavour and fragrance industries. Moreover, this oil cannot be substituted with reconstituted oil and cannot be made through synthetically. Vetiver perfumes give pleasing aroma and has slow evaporation rate. Pure vetiver (Khus) root oil known in trade as “Ruh – Khus” and its use in scents since ancient time. Vetiver oil is the basis of the Indian perfume ‘Majmua’ and is the major ingredient in some 36% of all western perfumes (e.g. Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence, Parure, Opium ) and 20% of all men’s fragrances.

Its complex chemical composition and oil odour, high solubility in alcohol that improves its miscibility with other perfumery material, makes it a unique perfumery resource for which no synthetic substitute is yet available. In addition to its own perfumery value on account of vetiver hydrocarbons compounds and carbonyl compounds, their alcohol derivatives i.e. vetiverols lend unique position to vetiver oil for perfumery applications as a valuable resource. Also, vetiverol could be acetylated with acetic anhydride to produce vetiveryl acetate.
 

Both vetiverols and acetates have softer odours and fixative qualities, and are used as blender with high-class perfumery products. They blend well with ionone, linalool, cinnamic alcohol, oakmoss, vanila, sandalwood, patchouli and rose bases, and are frequently used in western type of fragrances having chypre, fougere, rose, violet and amber aldehyde base, and oriental fragrances and floral compounds.

In addition to its direct perfumery applications, vetiver oil in its diluted form is extensively used in after-shave lotions, air freshners and bathing purposes, as well as flavoring syrups, ice cream, cosmetic and food preservation. Khus essence is used in cool drinks, and for reducing pungency of chewing tobacco preparations, providing sweet note to other masticatories and incense sticks.

 

OTHER USES

Vetiver oil is used in perfumery, cosmetics and soaps and for flavouring sherbets (Indian cool drinks).

Dried roots are also used to perfume the linen cloths.

The roots have been used for making screens, mats, hand fans and baskets. The screens are hung like curtains in the houses and when sprinkled water, impart a fragrant coolness to the air; they are in great demand during the summer.

For desert coolers in summer in North India.
Roots for preparing Sherbet or soft drink during summer, especially in North India.


Images of vetiver: wikipedia, treesftf

 


Author: Dr. Chandra Shekhar Gupta

Senior Research Fellow
Plant Quarantine Division
National Bearue of Plant Genetic Resources
Pusa Campus, New Delhi

 



 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Vetiver

1.5773714806732
Encre Noire Lalique
1.5063709409024
La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Vetiver Dior
1.5041839014881
Malizia Uomo Vetyver Mirato
1.5026624827652
Eau de Vetyver Givenchy
1.5016640517282
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.501521418723
Molecule 03 Escentric Molecules
1.5014738743879
Vetiver Zara
1.5012836970475
Turtle Vetiver Back Les Nez
1.5010935197071
Royall Vetiver Royall Fragrances
1.5009984310369
Turtle Vetiver Les Nez
1.5009508867018
The Maj House of Matriarch
1.5007607093615
Mon Numero 3 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.5007131650264
Vetiver of Haiti The 7 Virtues
1.5007131650264
4711 Acqua Colonia Vetyver & Bergamot Maurer & Wirtz
1.5005705320211
Vetiver Elizabeth W
1.500522987686
Vetiver Santa Maria Novella
1.500522987686
Black Vetiver Phaedon
1.5004754433509
Athunis Sigilli
1.5004278990158
Baby Musk House of Matriarch
1.5004278990158
Supercilium O`Driu
1.5003803546807
Cologne Intense Borsalino
1.5002852660106
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.5002852660106
Mix 18 Platinum J
1.5002377216755
Vetiver Jalaine
1.5002377216755
Zeste de Vétiver Durance en Provence
1.5002377216755
Mix 11 Platinum J
1.5001901773404
Nymph Nina`s Nature
1.5001426330053
Zara Sport 615 Zara
1.5000950886702
Muschio di Quercia (Oak Moss) La Via del Profumo
1.5000950886702
Agua de Vetiver Angel Schlesser
1.5000950886702
Maharishi Rich Hippie
1.5000475443351
Wood Nina`s Nature
1.5000475443351
Incantation Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000475443351
Hurricane Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000475443351
Prurience Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Spring Vetiver 40 Notes Perfume
1.5
Yurei Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Love's Torments Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4999049113298
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.4999049113298
Aurora Terra Micaelangelo
1.4999049113298
Highwayman Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4998098226596
Saturnalia Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4743020763562
Hornero Fueguia 1833
1.4709935344934
Woman Donna Karan
1.4673801650264
Cuba Grey Cuba Paris
1.4618232660106
Turtle Vetiver Front Les Nez
1.4529261798127
Vetyver Jo Malone
1.428571
Black Romane
1.4250950886702
Blood Kiss Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4233694118766
Terre d'Hermes Hermes
1.4203003967099
Grey Vetiver Tom Ford
1.4189378103456
Vetiver Racinettes Ayala Moriel
1.4173326206913
Onda Voile d`Extrait Vero Profumo
1.4169998103456
No. 06 Green Bergamot & Vetiver Rituals
1.4156947734037
Velvet Vetiver Dolce&Gabbana
1.4156324310369
Iris & Lady Moore Jo Malone
1.406599381781
onda Vero Profumo
1.4013787857177
Vetiver Bourbon Miller Harris
1.4003328103456
Vetiver de Puig Antonio Puig
1.4002852660106
Rendezvous Night Urban Retreat
1.4001426330053
Sweet Tyranny Smell Bent
1.4000475443351
El 8 de Gran Vía Loewe
1.3882856083773
Magazine Street Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3877150763562
Vetiver de la Reunion L`Erbolario
1.3861543333333
Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
1.3851855320211
That 70`s Smell Botanical Perfume Esscentual Alchemy
1.3849002660106
Lavande & Vetiver Jeanne en Provence
1.382875987686
Sandalo del Kashmir & Vetiver Tesori d`Oriente
1.3825420887177
Vetiver Guerlain
1.3818077980317
No. 17 Vetiver & Bergamot Rituals
1.3763787857177
The Natural Gap
1.3757607093615
1902 Vetiver Parfums Berdoues
1.3750950886702
Eau de Vetyver Le Jardin Retrouve
1.3743535222745
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Chanel
1.3686111773404
Pink Vetiver Jo Loves
1.3678508620739
Haitian Vetiver Ermenegildo Zegna
1.3640638990158
Osmo Scents Vetiver de Java Il Profvmo
1.3563641921267
Woods Abercrombie & Fitch
1.3533688990158
Freedom Sport Tommy Hilfiger
1.3508082536966
Mazzolari Mazzolari
1.350522987686
Vetivera Herbacea Parfums Berdoues
1.3504754433509
Ellie Ellie Perfume
1.3473667025626
La Nuit de l`Homme Yves Saint Laurent
1.3455887093615
Cereus No.5 Cereus
1.3444421551847
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.3357425985356
Les Parfums Mythiques - Vetiver Givenchy
1.3348508054486
Infusion de Vetiver Prada
1.334675527124
Sel de Vetiver The Different Company
1.3339510763562
That's Amore! Lui Gai Mattiolo
1.3336658103456
Me Myself & I Ego Facto
1.3336182660106
Entice Him Ajmal
1.3336182660106
Brass and Bulldog Botanical Cologne Esscentual Alchemy
1.3335231773404
Sunrise Urban Men Franck Olivier
1.3335231773404
Andy Roddick Parlux
1.3334756330053
Stra-Vivara Emilio Pucci
1.333333
Trapeze Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3332379113298
Aurora Fuoco Micaelangelo
1.3326109187943
Eau Sauvage Parfum Dior
1.3276338571768
Eau de Vétyver L`Occitane en Provence
1.32687378819
Vetiver Etro
1.3260708620739
08 Seylon Odin
1.3202852660106
Bon Zai Ayala Moriel
1.3183721773404
Divine: Eros Opus Oils
1.3182137610897
Fumidus Profumum Roma
1.3171202413826
Vetiver Sport Guerlain
1.3137249039604
Absinth Nasomatto
1.3136410640422
Cowboy Grass D.S. & Durga
1.3133557980317
Modoc Xerjoff
1.3108204433509
Tamboti Wood Susanne Lang
1.3095261896544
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3087855197071
Up To You for Him Avon
1.3083795813246
Vetiver Extraordinaire Frederic Malle
1.308214987686
Darwin Fueguia 1833
1.3062973177388
Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
1.3043955443351
Cowgirl Grass D.S. & Durga
1.304348
Vanillaman Neil Morris
1.3039808867018
Cuba Green Cuba Paris
1.3035035073931
Time For Peace Kenzo
1.3031817980317
Eva Santa Maria Novella
1.3019574290401
Narciso Rodriguez For Her Narciso Rodriguez
1.300373194599
Comme Des Garcons Series 4 Cologne : Vettiveru Comme des Garcons
1.3003328103456
Estivalia Antonio Puig
1.3001901773404
Wood Portland General Store
1.3001426330053
Les Bohemes: Bootleg Opus Oils
1.3000475443351
Oxbow for Men Oxbow
1.3
Nononsense 1 Nico Uytterhaegen
1.2991987734037
Vetyver Lanvin
1.2985806970475
BOSS The Collection Cotton & Verbena Hugo Boss
1.2977248990158
Vetyver Parfums de Nicolaï
1.2973920886702
Megumi Ayala Moriel
1.2971993423668
Silver Man Benetton
1.2971066083773
L'Homme Infini Divine
1.2957820517282
Aveda Men Pure-formance Aroma Spray Aveda
1.2955443300528
Déclaration Edition Limitée Cartier
1.2952590640422
Hellstone Lush
1.2911886083773
Vince Camuto Femme Vince Camuto
1.2862845320211
Terre d’Hermes Flacon H 2009 Hermes
1.2861894433509
Racing Ferrari
1.2861418990158
New Experience Man Tom Tailor
1.2860943546807
B-Cool Police
1.2859041773404
Mayor Energy Novaya Zarya
1.2859041773404
Courage EDT Förster and Johnsen
1.2859041773404
Precious One Angela Flanders
1.285714
Patchouli Man Bjork and Berries
1.285714
Orient Al-Rehab
1.2856189113298
Gone with the Smell The Fragrance Kitchen
1.2854697857177
Gentile Maria Candida Gentile
1.2845031724908
Hermessence Vetiver Tonka Hermes
1.2834691552323
Guerlain L'Homme L'Eau Boisée Guerlain
1.2825957438787
Red Vetyver Montale

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