Vetiver

lat. Vetiveria Zizanoid
Other names: vetivert, khus

Group: Woods and Mosses

Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Vetiver Vetiveria Zizanoid
Odor profile: Essence from the Eastern Asian weed grass Vetiveria zizanoid that falls under the woods category thanks to its musty, dry, woody scent with bitter chocolate and smoke facets. Very popular in niche perfumery and masculine fragrances. The reference vetivers are Carven's, Givenchy's and Guerlain's classic renditions.

VETIVER – A COOL FRAGRANCE


The best features of vetiver, the aromatic verdancy, the fragrant rootiness, the subtle, refreshing citrusiness, the enjoyable earthiness, a wonderful hint of woodiness, and a certain Guerlainesque leathery-ambery darkness in the drydown. Vetiver oil is obtained by steam distillation of roots of vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides). The oil is one of the finest oriental perfumes with a persistent fragrance. In blended perfumes oil of vetiver acts as an excellent fixatives for volatile compounds. It is known for its cooling properties.

HABITAT

A commercially large population of Khas (Vetiver) grass grows in wet and damp environments over marshy places and riverbanks. The plant has a unique characteristic of being xerophyte (tolerates prolonged drought) but it survive under long seasonal flooding; it tolerates extreme temperature and grows over a wide range of soil pH. The grass grows luxuriantly in areas with an annual rainfall of 800 -2000 mm and temperature ranging from 22 to 400 C. Marshy riverbeds with sandy loam are best suited for this grass.

BOTANY
 

Common name: Vetiver
Botanical Name – Vetiveria zizanioides
Family: Gramineae / Poaceae

This family is known as the grass and the nutritious family. It is so named because the plant members are grasses and the plants are known for their ability to provide nutrients to the soil.

               Other common names

Akar Wangi - fragrant root - name used in Java, Khus Khus – aromatic root - name used in India, Oil of tranquility - name used in Sri Lanka.

Vetiver is a tall (1.5-2.0 m) perennial grass. It has a small stout rhizomatous stolen which gives rise to spongy, fibrous, dense roots system. Roots have aromatic properties and grow 20-30 cm deep in medium textured marginal soils under cultivation. Tremendous diversity exists with respect to pattern of growth, orientation and thickness of roots, as well as for occurrence of secondary roots. The bast region of root is the source of essential oil. The leaves are linear, narrow, erect, grassy, keeled with glabrous joint scabrid margins. Inflorescence is a panicle, up to 15-45 cm long, bearing numerous racemes in whorl on a central axis. The lower spikelets are reduced to lamena.

The upper spikelets are narrow, acute, appressed, awnless, green, grey or purplish in colour, 4-6 mm long, arranged in pairs. One floret in spike is sessile and bisexual; this bisexual floret has a glabrous callus, 3 stamens and 2 plumose stigmas. The other floret is pedicelled and staminate. Java vetiver is non flowering type has broader leaves (1.1 mm), medium thick stems, bushy growth bearing flowers with high pollen sterility; the plants give out more branching roots with higher oil content and the oil is dextro-rotatory in nature.
 

HISTORY and MYTH

Vetiver has a long and rich history. In India it has been used to make blinds necessary to keep out the intense heat. When the blinds are sprinkled with water they emit the vetiver scent. In Java the root has been used for centuries in weaving mats and thatching huts. The Vetiver root is used in folk magic for its purported ability to provide safety and increase financial resources. A ritual designed to promote personal safety calls for inhaling Vetiver while visualizing one’s body as being sealed off from negative energies.

COUNTRIES of ORIGIN


Vetiver is native to South India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka. It is also cultivated in Reunion, the Philippines, the Comoro Islands, Japan, West Africa and South America. The oil is mainly produced in Java, Haiti and Reunion.

PERFUME IN ITS OWN RIGHT (COOLING PERFUME)

In World market the demand for vetiver oil is increasing day by day due to its unique odour, for which it is used in both flavour and fragrance industries. Moreover, this oil cannot be substituted with reconstituted oil and cannot be made through synthetically. Vetiver perfumes give pleasing aroma and has slow evaporation rate. Pure vetiver (Khus) root oil known in trade as “Ruh – Khus” and its use in scents since ancient time. Vetiver oil is the basis of the Indian perfume ‘Majmua’ and is the major ingredient in some 36% of all western perfumes (e.g. Caleche, Chanel No. 5, Dioressence, Parure, Opium ) and 20% of all men’s fragrances.

Its complex chemical composition and oil odour, high solubility in alcohol that improves its miscibility with other perfumery material, makes it a unique perfumery resource for which no synthetic substitute is yet available. In addition to its own perfumery value on account of vetiver hydrocarbons compounds and carbonyl compounds, their alcohol derivatives i.e. vetiverols lend unique position to vetiver oil for perfumery applications as a valuable resource. Also, vetiverol could be acetylated with acetic anhydride to produce vetiveryl acetate.
 

Both vetiverols and acetates have softer odours and fixative qualities, and are used as blender with high-class perfumery products. They blend well with ionone, linalool, cinnamic alcohol, oakmoss, vanila, sandalwood, patchouli and rose bases, and are frequently used in western type of fragrances having chypre, fougere, rose, violet and amber aldehyde base, and oriental fragrances and floral compounds.

In addition to its direct perfumery applications, vetiver oil in its diluted form is extensively used in after-shave lotions, air freshners and bathing purposes, as well as flavoring syrups, ice cream, cosmetic and food preservation. Khus essence is used in cool drinks, and for reducing pungency of chewing tobacco preparations, providing sweet note to other masticatories and incense sticks.

 

OTHER USES

Vetiver oil is used in perfumery, cosmetics and soaps and for flavouring sherbets (Indian cool drinks).

Dried roots are also used to perfume the linen cloths.

The roots have been used for making screens, mats, hand fans and baskets. The screens are hung like curtains in the houses and when sprinkled water, impart a fragrant coolness to the air; they are in great demand during the summer.

For desert coolers in summer in North India.
Roots for preparing Sherbet or soft drink during summer, especially in North India.


Images of vetiver: wikipedia, treesftf

 


Author: Dr. Chandra Shekhar Gupta

Senior Research Fellow
Plant Quarantine Division
National Bearue of Plant Genetic Resources
Pusa Campus, New Delhi

 



 

 

 

Perfumes and Colognes With Vetiver

1.5803639430722
Encre Noire Lalique
1.5058594736576
La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Vetiver Dior
1.5038389654998
Malizia Uomo Vetyver Mirato
1.5026771733091
Eau de Vetyver Givenchy
1.501818457342
Molecule 03 Escentric Molecules
1.5013638430065
Vetiver Zara
1.5011617921907
Turtle Vetiver Les Nez
1.5010102540789
Royall Vetiver Royall Fragrances
1.5010102540789
Turtle Vetiver Back Les Nez
1.5010102540789
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.5008587159671
Shooting Stars Collection: Modoc Xerjoff
1.5007576905592
Mon Numero 3 L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.5007071778552
Vetiver Elizabeth W
1.5005051270395
Vetiver of Haiti The 7 Virtues
1.5005051270395
4711 Acqua Colonia Vetyver & Bergamot Maurer & Wirtz
1.5005051270395
Athunis Sigilli
1.5004546143355
Vetiver Santa Maria Novella
1.5004546143355
Marbert Homme Marbert
1.5003535889276
Black Vetiver Phaedon
1.5003535889276
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.5003535889276
Supercilium O`Driu
1.5003535889276
Cologne Intense Borsalino
1.5003030762237
Mix 18 Platinum J
1.5002525635197
Mix 11 Platinum J
1.5002525635197
Vetiver Jalaine
1.5001515381118
Zara Sport 615 Zara
1.5001010254079
Maharishi Rich Hippie
1.5001010254079
Muschio di Quercia (Oak Moss) La Via del Profumo
1.5001010254079
Nymph Nina`s Nature
1.5000505127039
Hurricane Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000505127039
Wood Nina`s Nature
1.5000505127039
Prurience Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5000505127039
Incantation Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Yurei Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Love's Torments Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.5
Agua de Vetiver Angel Schlesser
1.4999494872961
Vetiver Demeter Fragrance
1.4998989745921
Aurora Terra Micaelangelo
1.4998989745921
Highwayman Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4997979491842
Saturnalia Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4698612794868
Haitian Vetiver Ermenegildo Zegna
1.4674246905592
Cuba Grey Cuba Paris
1.4618915889276
Hornero Fueguia 1833
1.4533240925393
Woman Donna Karan
1.4527684527959
Vetyver Jo Malone
1.4517645381118
Blood Kiss Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4462119446381
Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
1.4374628938223
Velvet Vetiver Dolce&Gabbana
1.4299853557105
Vetiver Bourbon Miller Harris
1.428571
Black Romane
1.4189585889276
Vetiver Racinettes Ayala Moriel
1.4170205889276
No. 06 Green Bergamot & Vetiver Rituals
1.4167680254079
Seplasia Bruno Acampora
1.4156947667828
Iris & Lady Moore Jo Malone
1.4129249109966
Terre d'Hermes Hermes
1.4081886812143
Grey Vetiver Tom Ford
1.4014143557105
Déclaration Edition Limitée Cartier
1.4004546143355
Baby Musk House of Matriarch
1.4003030762237
Vetiver de Puig Antonio Puig
1.4003030762237
Rendezvous Night Urban Retreat
1.4
Sweet Tyranny Smell Bent
1.3919606651513
Vetiver de la Reunion L`Erbolario
1.3884608430065
Magazine Street Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3870883333333
Coco Mademoiselle Chanel
1.384085163156
Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Chanel
1.3762628175986
The Natural Gap
1.3757071778552
1902 Vetiver Parfums Berdoues
1.3752525635197
Lavande & Vetiver Jeanne en Provence
1.3751010254079
Eau de Vetyver Le Jardin Retrouve
1.3741994164267
Vetiver Guerlain
1.3696977622367
Vetiver Creed
1.3641981687629
Vetiver Etro
1.3640906143355
Osmo Scents Vetiver de Java Il Profvmo
1.3573450508158
Entice Him Ajmal
1.3571977622367
onda Vero Profumo
1.3560222749406
Woods Abercrombie & Fitch
1.3533956143355
Freedom Sport Tommy Hilfiger
1.3533451016316
Darwin Fueguia 1833
1.3507071778552
Mazzolari Mazzolari
1.3505556397434
Vetivera Herbacea Parfums Berdoues
1.3505051270395
Ellie Ellie Perfume
1.3465075889276
Sandalo del Kashmir & Vetiver Tesori d`Oriente
1.3436069971208
La Nuit de l`Homme Yves Saint Laurent
1.3414867667828
Vetiver Des Sables Montale
1.334292741375
Windsor Eau de Toilette D.R.Harris
1.3342687576906
Vetiver Annick Goutal
1.3341412032631
Cereus No.5 Cereus
1.3339896651513
That's Amore! Lui Gai Mattiolo
1.3336360762237
Onda Voile d`Extrait Vero Profumo
1.3335855635197
Brass and Bulldog Botanical Cologne Esscentual Alchemy
1.3335350508158
Precious One Angela Flanders
1.3335350508158
Turtle Vetiver Front Les Nez
1.3335350508158
Sunrise Urban Men Franck Olivier
1.3334845381118
Andy Roddick Parlux
1.3334845381118
Stra-Vivara Emilio Pucci
1.3334340254079
Pink Vetiver Jo Loves
1.3334340254079
No Sport La Parfumerie Moderne
1.333333
Rose Poudre Bottega Profumiera
1.333333
Nimitz Paris Bleu
1.333333
Trapeze Strange Invisible Perfumes
1.3332319745921
Aurora Fuoco Micaelangelo
1.3331538456837
Sel de Vetiver The Different Company
1.3288381187554
Eau Sauvage Parfum Dior
1.3258419446381
08 Seylon Odin
1.323852457342
Vetyver Lanvin
1.3229545870586
Infusion de Vetiver Prada
1.3220830743547
Eau de Vétyver L`Occitane en Provence
1.3211112794868
Aquae Nobilis Profumum Roma
1.3203030762237
Bon Zai Ayala Moriel
1.3197592958024
Les Parfums Mythiques - Vetiver Givenchy
1.3191922540789
Vince Camuto Femme Vince Camuto
1.3190407159671
Hellstone Lush
1.3183840508158
Divine: Eros Opus Oils
1.3176921224933
Fumidus Profumum Roma
1.3170013048947
Vetiver Sport Guerlain
1.3153467667828
Gentile Maria Candida Gentile
1.3136112794868
Cowboy Grass DS & Durga
1.3130051270395
No. 17 Vetiver & Bergamot Rituals
1.3125788066374
Vetiver Extraordinaire Frederic Malle
1.3117733674799
Absinth Nasomatto
1.3109006397434
Tamboti Wood Susanne Lang
1.3088537921907
Up To You for Him Avon
1.3081971270395
Bois Bleu Robert Piguet
1.3077930254079
Assam Oudh Crabtree & Evelyn
1.304348
Cowgirl Grass DS & Durga
1.3036549446381
Time For Peace Kenzo
1.3030836905592
Eva Santa Maria Novella
1.3004546143355
Estivalia Antonio Puig
1.3002525635197
Me Myself & I Ego Facto
1.3002020508158
True American Eagle
1.3001078130525
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorella Dior
1.3001010254079
Wood Portland General Store
1.3000505127039
Oxbow for Men Oxbow
1.3
Nononsense 1 Nico Uytterhaegen
1.298831741375
Un Bois Sepia Serge Lutens
1.2983577667828
Notte Bianca Linari
1.2976000762237
Indian Vetiver Bath and Body Works
1.2973980254079
Megumi Ayala Moriel
1.297394898419
Narciso Rodriguez For Her Narciso Rodriguez
1.2972903811184
Cuir 28 Le Labo
1.297205228671
Silver Man Benetton
1.2947241524473
Vetyver Parfums de Nicolaï
1.2926269400919
Kenzo Air Intense Kenzo
1.292626741375
Cuba Green Cuba Paris
1.286623228671
BOSS The Collection Cotton & Verbena Hugo Boss
1.2861686143355
That 70`s Smell Botanical Perfume Esscentual Alchemy
1.2861686143355
New Experience Man Tom Tailor
1.2861686143355
Racing Ferrari
1.2861181016316
Eau Fraîche Molinard
1.2861181016316
B-Cool Police

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